Does anyone in the US know the max these will run on 110V? I think it was 1.35 Th/s.
I noticed in the tech blog a May batch cannot go back to a FW prior to 1.3 so using an old FW (voiding warranty) before the rate limiting was inserted isn't an option.
Why you guys keep talking about 110V in US. Everything I read says that US has 120V/240V with 120V powering living rooms and 240V-dryer, washer, AC, oven, etc. Few houses run at 120V and normally something less. But even at 120V Spondoolies FW limits the total power draw so the hashrate is limited to something less than the 1.5 Th/s achievable on 208V or higher. Do you know where I can find any official information about hashrate limited by FW on 120V ? I carefully look to the Product page, FAQ, Technical Blog and Company Blog but I was not able to find anywhere a statement about lower hashrate on 120V. I'm asking because I was not aware of such limitation ... I payed for 1.5Th but I'll get ~1.4Th due to slow-slow ASICs and now I find out that actually I'll not get more than ~1.35Th because I'm using 120V .... Now I'm wondering if there is similar hashrate limitation for SP30 .... There is any way to disable FW limitation to be able to get full hashrate on 120V ? No. The PSU requires 220v to function at those levels, if you do not have 220v I would sugest finding a hosting facility for your units. +1. Most power supplies run 3-6% more efficiently on 208V power than when using 115V. This translates to the PSU being able to push out some extra wattage safely. (for example; the DPS-800 PSU runs 800W on 100-120V power but is simultaneously rated for 1000W on 200-250V power |
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Whats the 'Amsterdamn 2014' SP-10 unit? The price is very good, is it available to order world-wide?
Where do you see it? Maybe it's a special price for the Conference attendees. *mind-freaked* just an hour or two ago there was another May SP-10 dawson Amsterdamn available for $2,900. Its gone now, so perhaps it was for in-person pickup at the conference? If they listed at that price, I would probably buy 2 of them today. However, $3,200 seems the best price at the moment from that groupbuy |
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Whats the 'Amsterdamn 2014' SP-10 unit? The price is very good, is it available to order world-wide?
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Holy cow! That's freaking loud!
+1 mine seems about as loud as 3 antminer S1 units, but the 140mm fans mean its a slightly lower pitch, more of a loud 'whoosh' noise from the air as mentioned above. |
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Any one tried converting multiple S1 s to S2 ?
With same hashrate and Power Consumption?
Basically S1 and S2 used the same chip.
Purpose is to match the price/power/hashrate of S2 with S1.
find the undervolting thread. AFAIR, its been tested to run about 140GH / 200W, but I am sure you could do better, its just a matter of tuning down the voltage. The S2 can overclock to about 1100GH comfortably if given a 1200W PSU |
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From experimenting and a Voltcraft 3000 power logger R1 chips do 27~31W at the wall with a 3.9k resitor(12 chips/board) 29~32 gh/s R2 chips do 29~31W at the wall with a 3.9k resitor(12 chips/board) 29~30 gh/s Just my 2 cents  that can't be correct - by all accounts the R2 chips are presumably about 15% more efficient, so i thought you would see more like 32-35GH |
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you really need to post working image links lol
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The user does not understand how auction works. Closes threads for auctions where there is a clear winner with a bid above the starting price but the price is below market value
negative feedback left - i suggest others do the same
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The fan will further improve the wind turbine aerodynamic efficiency, system efficiency and use efficiency, to reduce power consumption; the shaft with adjustable moving blade axial-flow fan instead of large centrifugal blower fan; reduce noise; improve the wear resistance of the smoke, dust exhausting fan impeller and casing to realize variable speed adjustment; and the automatic control.
what the heck are you talking about? IMO: a second fan is not necessary from a technical standpoint. you might drop board temperatures a few degrees and squeeze out 2-5GH more per unit, but you will still draw as much (if not more) power then if you used that same clockspeed with a single fan. The only real benefit of a secondary fan is to slightly reduce the noise of the machine |
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Silver 925 is the standard of original silver or quality silver. Silver 925 represents that 92.5% silver in any type of silver jewelry and remaining percentage is other types of metal.
lol wtf 1st post bumping an old thread hahaah ps: i won the ring and received it - quite nice quality and always fun to spend some BTC! (particularly since btc was around $800 at the time  ) |
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I like it!
is the duct capable of the massive airflow for 6 antminers? (probably around 600-700CFM). seems like a small vent for such airflow to maintain the cooling
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wow what a great exit price you're all getting on your shares… your original money had to have gone somewhere right? oh well guess it was just another trickle-up scheme. My conclusion: Never ever ever trust anyone ever again in the bitcoin "mining industry" …they all look shady as fuck.Personally I don't see how anyone can sell at the current prices. Depending on where you originally bought, people are getting just pennies on every dollar they invested. If you think there is even a small chance that this stock can at least temporarily spike up based on some good news/bitcoin's price rising rapidly, then I don't see how you can sell for <0.0001 like people are right now. I for one would lose close to 80 BTC if I were to sell right now, eff that. I hope you're right but I cannot see how anyone will ever take this or any bitcoin mining company seriously again. The pool has been sitting at 80TH for a long time now, when 170TH was supposed to be fully operational by now |
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Considering I have ordered 30 ants and this is the first bad blade its not too bad, 1 out of 60.  That is a little scary... I've got 6 ants, been running for a while now with no real issues. After I had it up and running I noticed 1 of the ants is missing 2x of the same capacitor that you had pop (in a different location on the PCB), seems to be running fine though... i had that capacitor fall off on one of my units. booting via a PSU-on would cause some chips on that side to not detect properly, but if i rebooted the antminer while leaving the 12V power on,it recognizes and runs just fine. In the case of WPGDEEZ's unit: 1) did you possibly connect the 12V and GND backwards? this could cause angry capacitors and other damage. 2) clean everything up, remove the cap, and if there is no other damage (such as burnt traces, other swollen caps, or cracked resistors) try turning it on. I give you a 60% chance that it will boot and operate just fine without that capacitor if there's no other issues. (please double-check your wiring polarity first) |
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At a guess, the 'very low cost', would most certainly be having to buy an additional PSU, or several 1 kW PSUs ( for example ).
I would think it more likely that Bitmain will have an upgrade path to replace the cards with ones containing chips of a smaller process node (28nm). I agree, probably a card replacement, but also with fewer W/Gh, so the existing psu might suffice. its possible that the bitmain 55nm chips can achieve better than 1w/GH if they are undervolted even further. stuffing twice as many chips in an S2 might allow 1.8TH/1200W or something like that, but even this would not allow 2TH witht he current 1000w PSU, so perhaps the next gen will be 40nm 28nm would allow about 4x the efficiency, so either half as many chips or the same wattage and 2x the hashrate, or the same number of chips/wattage for 3.5-4TH. |
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so im a home miner, purchased both the SP30 and SP10 group buys (thank you Spondoolies-Tech and RoadStress) , definitely not an electrician so maybe you guys can answer this for me..
im reading everywhere that we want 220V 30amp to run our sp30s, ive got an outlet pretty much 4 feet below my breaker box that i will probably get an electrician to flange me up the 220V / 30A with but since there are going to be two PSU's and two power cables, what if a person ran one to an outlet on its own 120V / 15A and the other to another separate 120V / 15A. If i could dedicate these outlets for only running an SP30 would it power it to its fullest? Would have to run a heavy duty extension cord from one of the outlets.
or should i stick with the electrician route? im not opposed to paying to have this done, just curious about everything and anything.
You will be good with a 30 amp 220, you can draw more than 6000 watts from that and your PSU's will stay cooler and run more efficient. Just get yourself a 30amp PDU and some c13-c14 power cables to connect your PSU to the PDU and you're golden. PDU is a fancy name for a big ass power bar. Make sure the outlet you install matches up to the plug type on the PDU you buy. Most are Nema L6, and this is what the outlet looks like. http://www.grainger.com/product/LEVITON-Receptacle-1PKK1The best deals on outlets and PDU's are on eBay by far. That $40 outlet can be found for $12 and PDU's for under $80. That is not a good idea. You should not put more than 80% load on a circuit, and particularly be cautious of the voltage (a 220V connection may drop to ~210V under high load, thus drawing more amps). An L6-30 outlet is typically rated for 4.992kW continuous load. Its actually 240x30 which will give you 5760 at 80%. 6000 is safe especially if running effecient psu. oten times you won't have 240V - even when tying two 120V sources you often get 220-230V. Before you load it up with more than a 5kW draw I would check with a multimeter to be careful. (check again under load, since that can cause a voltage drop and thus even higher amperage from the wall) |
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i might be undervoltng sooner than later - the results people are seeing is impressive. 75% speeds for 60% wattage
just holding out until for a few more weeks while the difficulty is low (11% jump = party)
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Biffa - none, and the heatsinks seem much better milled. no rough edges
tzortz - there u go
Nice, they told me they had improved the design, didn't realise they had gone so far. RE the old heatsinks, I have visions of them being delivered to the BITMAIN factory via tipper truck.  hahahhah i can picture that visual way too easily! Nice to see they seem to have an improved method of keeping the cards held in place for shipping. would love to see them put heatsinks like this on the S1 in order to cram 3-5 boards in the space of the current 2 boards |
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so im a home miner, purchased both the SP30 and SP10 group buys (thank you Spondoolies-Tech and RoadStress) , definitely not an electrician so maybe you guys can answer this for me..
im reading everywhere that we want 220V 30amp to run our sp30s, ive got an outlet pretty much 4 feet below my breaker box that i will probably get an electrician to flange me up the 220V / 30A with but since there are going to be two PSU's and two power cables, what if a person ran one to an outlet on its own 120V / 15A and the other to another separate 120V / 15A. If i could dedicate these outlets for only running an SP30 would it power it to its fullest? Would have to run a heavy duty extension cord from one of the outlets.
or should i stick with the electrician route? im not opposed to paying to have this done, just curious about everything and anything.
You will be good with a 30 amp 220, you can draw more than 6000 watts from that and your PSU's will stay cooler and run more efficient. Just get yourself a 30amp PDU and some c13-c14 power cables to connect your PSU to the PDU and you're golden. PDU is a fancy name for a big ass power bar. Make sure the outlet you install matches up to the plug type on the PDU you buy. Most are Nema L6, and this is what the outlet looks like. http://www.grainger.com/product/LEVITON-Receptacle-1PKK1The best deals on outlets and PDU's are on eBay by far. That $40 outlet can be found for $12 and PDU's for under $80. That is not a good idea. You should not put more than 80% load on a circuit, and particularly be cautious of the voltage (a 220V connection may drop to ~210V under high load, thus drawing more amps). An L6-30 outlet is typically rated for 4.992kW continuous load. |
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depends on at least 3 factors:
1) electricity cost: if you pay >$0.20/kWh you will be underclocking a few weeks sooner than those paying <$0.15/kWh
2) temerature and electrical capacity: if your place is getting too hot it may make sense to undervolt a little bit to reduce the power used and thus temperatures
3) your short-term and long-term views of USD/BTC. If you expect us to sit around $400-600/BTC for the next 6+ months then you will underclock sooner (at a loss of hashrate) than those who expect it to go to $1000 or higher and thus justify the higher power costs to produce the maximum BTC possible
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^ +1
electrical work and long-term installations will outlast a single generation of bitcoin equipment.
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