I bought a Multimeter to be able to check the voltage, however I do not know where on the board you would test that. If someone could make a screenshot of that I would really appreciate it, or maybe it already exists?
I have tried all sorts of fans and none seem to keep the regulator cool enough to keep them from cycling. Mine just turn off as well, and do not come back up.
Check voltage on top of the inductor (grey box with PULSE printed on it and any of the GND pin from the PCIE power supply) Just FYI... There is a small problem with measuring voltage like that, but it's still the easiest way in a crowded rig. There's a significant and varying voltage drop on the ground line between the power supply and a card. Just between the M-board's GND terminal and a slot's ground pins, there's a drop of between 0.023v (slot 0) and 0.067v (slot F) on my v1 rig. So while it may look like you're running a card at 0.900v when measured the easy way, it could actually be as low as 0.833v. And I didn't even account for any further drop from the slot to the chips' ground plane. |
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I just powered up my new full rig, v3.0 M-board, 16 v2.2 H-boards. No heatsinks, 3 fans side by side (120mm, 148 cfm each). Getting 575 GH/s without tweaking. Using 622W at the wall, plus 30W for the fans (PSU is 86% efficient). Very nice!
The v3.0 M-board has two 6-pin PCIe power sockets and also the screw terminals like the v1.0 M-boards. Using an extra adapter from an older kit, I'm able to plug 4 cables from my PSU into the M-board. This should solve my concerns about pulling alot of current through just two cables.
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Does anyone know how to downclock the chips on the new boards? I don't have enough cooling apparently and my heat sinks won't arrive for another week. The chips just keep cycling, the high side of 575GH for my whole rig, and then down to 100GH, slowly, as the Hboards turn the chips off one by one.
The DHCP script did not work for my network, I had to have a friend go in the Pi and help me set up a static IP manually.
Aside from that, the October rig is great. For anyone still waiting on theirs, make sure you have good cooling ready to go. I am looking at some 100cfm 120mm fans right now, but I might get ones a little stronger.
First, get alot of airflow through the cards. A cheap large box fan would probably suffice. If that doesn't solve the problem, you can turn off a few chips on each H-board to reduce the heat and current draw to prevent the regulator from shutting off. Let the autotuner do its thing with the rest of the chips. Do that by creating /opt/bitfury/best.cnf with something like this: 1 AIfDSo 54
2 AIfDSo 54
3 aifdso 0
4 AIfDSo 54
5 AIfDSo 54
6 AIfDSo 54
7 aifdso 0
8 AIfDSo 54
9 AIfDSo 54
10 AIfDSo 54
11 aifdso 0
12 AIfDSo 54
13 AIfDSo 54
14 AIfDSo 54
15 aifdso 0
16 AIfDSo 54
17 AIfDSo 54
...
256 AIfDSo 54
Restart chainminer after changing best.cnf: sudo /opt/bitfury/start-miner.sh
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It looks like the EU distributor has them in stock now for $336.
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I think the problem with paralleling multiple PSUs is not only if one is shut off. What if one is trying to regulate at 11.95v and the other at 12.05v? That's like shorting 0.1v. Maybe not disastrous, but probably not a good idea. It also would cause one PSU to supply most or all of the power for the shared load.
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You should not connect multiple power supplies together like that. Their voltage regulators will fight each other.
It is usually ok to plug multiple power supplies into graphics cards because they usually keep the various power inputs isolated, running each 12v input to separate core voltage regulators. But with these bitfury rigs, the inputs are connected directly together.
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I requested shipment Sat afternoon and got a tracking number Sun evening. He also answered a few questions.
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52x
62x
104x
Shipped!
Order 67x not shipped yet.  Ah, just got a tracking number for that order! |
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52x
62x
104x
Shipped!
Order 67x not shipped yet. |
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Do the new M-boards have only two 6-pin power sockets and no other power input terminals? I'm uncomfortable having so much amperage flowing through these wires. My v1 rig with 12 H-boards is pulling only 400W from two PCIe cables and those connections are hot. I'm concerned about pulling up to 600W through the same kind of connection. Maybe I should desolder the 6-pin sockets and solder wires directly to the board?
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The bottom heatsink just has some Kapton tape and a little thermal grease on it, while the top cooler is just using thermal grease. Using this setup there is no board flex at all. The thermal grease is just the Antec branded stuff that's inside the box.
Isn't kapton tape a thermal insulator? Are you using the second heatsink purely as a symmetrical backplate, not to remove heat? |
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Quick tip for people with people dealing with fans on the Chili. The Cooler Master Evo 212 using the LGA 2011 parts work great on the chili didn't need anything else than what was in the box.
What holds the short standoffs to the board? If I remember correctly, the supplied nuts only fit the taller standoffs (i.e. for Socket 1155). |
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Thanks for the update steamboat! It's good to hear exactly what's still being worked on.
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My FrankenFury Got my hands on one of H board no M board so way not create your own FrankenFury    Don't you need a level shifter on the comm lines? |
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These is new firmware?
How I install it?
No, it's the same firmware that shipped on the second half of the first batch. Open ChiliFlash, and select the Chili that needs to be flashed from the drop down menu. Browse the the ChiliFW14c.hex hex file, and then hit program. The LEDs on the board should binary count quickly, and when it's done it will prompt to power cycle the unit and the LEDs should flash outer 4 then inner 4 until you do. Is there a way to determine a board's current firmware version with a serial console? I don't know if I already have 14c, and they're connected to a linux pc. I tried the ZCX command but the output doesn't appear to include the firmware version. |
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Do you think any Oct rigs will be shipped out to customers this week?
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A better test would be to power the card and measure voltage at the top of the Pulse inductor. If you get ~0.75v there (or whatever it's adjusted to), the power circuit (including that capacitor) is probably fine. I only say "probably" because I just fixed a board that was missing a cap on the back side. Before replacing that tiny back-side cap, the voltage at the Pulse top was correct, but the card wouldn't hash stably.
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Any new firmware mr teal
Please
Are yours having an issue of some kind? One of mine is. It often goes into spew-errors mode, requiring a power cycle. |
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Are you going to use the glue that came with the heatsinks?
Yes I was planning on using the included glue. Mr Teal... any advice on the placement of the heatsinks in my pics above? Also will the glue itself be ok for use on the bottom... I do not want to short anything... Glue? You probably mean thermal paste, which won't keep things stuck on reliably. |
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But why the other chips with capital "A" is not changed their frequency from 55? Day after day frequency is not changing...
Are you still using the old version of chainminer that shipped with the v1 M-boards? It either doesn't change the clocks, or it doesn't display it right. I upgraded to the latest version on github, and now autotune actually works (except for half-dead chips). But make sure to edit the version number before compiling if you have a v1 M-board! Update for v1 M board owners. If you want to use the latest build of chainminer with your version 1 M-board please do the following a) Download chainminer master on your raspberry PI from github and unzip it https://github.com/bfsb/chainminer/archive/master.zip 1 #ifndef MINER_H
2 #define MINER_H
3 #include "handylib.h"
4
5 #define NDEBUG
6 #define VERSION 1 c) make cd chainminer-master
make
cd ..
d) move /opt/bitfury/chainminer mv /opt/bitfury/chainminer /opt/bitfury/chainminer_v1_original e) copy chainminer-master directory to /opt/bitfury/chainminer cp -r chainminer-master /opt/bitfury/chainminer
f) mine with latest chainminer goodness |
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