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I have a question, on the mining hub front page, it has the table that shows "auto switching ports per algo", and it's saying myriad-groestl is the best thing to mine on Nvidia, but then when I go to my worker auto-switches page, it's saying it's mining Zclassic instead?? why do they disagree?   |
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My miners showed up on Friday, they've been hashing ever since I got them hooked up friday evening. Guess my refund issues have been resolved  hopefully they'll break even with 6 more months of hashing. Thanks SteamBoat. |
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i didnt requested refund either ... i requested my miners as they are, twice ... no reply
the side that u dont see in this, steamboat made the miners with OUR money, he has them now, he will refund us what he makes in 1 day with them, and all of u people are like .. "wow .. u're so nice steamboat" when he actually build a huge miner with our money ...
If steamboat can make my entire refund in 1 day, then I can make my own return on investment in 1 day too, the math doesn't work out, mining with these units is barely profitable as it is, assuming the USD/BTC exchange rate keeps climbing, I may just break even on them in 6 months, at which point I'll have to shut them off because they won't be making any money and just cost electricity. I think he's trying to do right by us, and locking the BTC at $126 is more then I expected him to do, to me that says a lot about his intentions [assuming it's not just talk]. |
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A more then fair solution, nice work SB and everyone else, I am however confused, since I didn't receive a chip refund (i was likely too slow in requesting it), I'm not eligible for an assembly refund, where does that leave me?
Should I start checking the mail for arrival of my units shortly?
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Here's what I think about the refunds,
I figured the assembly was done for USD, but the avalon chips were done for BTC,
I've spent 5.5 BTC ($550USD roughly) on assembly, and another 5.5BTC for avalon chips, a little transparency would go a long way for sure, but I'm pretty confident that SB immediately converted the BTC I sent him to USD to pay for parts and the assembler, so I expect this:
I get back $550 minus a restocking fee in current value BTC back for the assembly, and I get back the 5BTC from Yifu for the avalon chips, I think that's the most fair and nobody will lose their house.
I screwed up twice, the first time I got caught up in the huge difficulty increase and spent BTC on the most promising looking hardware, instead I should have done the math and waited.
I screwed up the second time asking for a refund, the smartest thing would have been to start hashing, see what I make with the units, and sell them on ebay and probably make back all my (USD equivalent) money.
I knew it was a risk, but SB really dropped the ball with his lack of transparency, I'm not asking for a long story or a forensic accounting of his business, just keep us in the loop, a short update every now and then would go a long way.
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What. Even the components that fit on the edge of a dime aren't that bad. I'm more worried about the tiny QFN48 package on the ASIC.
You are one of the talented people I was talking about then. ;-) Have you seen this video? Some good tips on soldering QFN packages. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_rO6oPVswsTo build either the K16 or K1 you need to be detail oriented and capable of fine work with small parts. I didn't find it terribly hard with any of the parts using tweezers but I think the ASIC packages are a bit easier with vacuum tweezers ($5 on ebay). I may add those to my store if people want them. You will want some kind of magnifying work light or head piece because getting good position without is going to be near impossible. However, you aren't going to do either of these boards with a soldering iron. The only way really to get good results is with solder paste, stencil and oven. Going this way the only hard part is placing the parts on the board. You have to be very methodical in making sure each part is in the correct place and oriented correctly, and this will likely take several hours at least per board. A mistake can be disastrous. If that step is done properly then the reflow oven step is quite easy and quick, and you should have a working board within minutes. I'll be putting together a PDF assembly guide with step by step placement diagrams and check lists to help with this, but as I've stressed a few times this is not a project for a beginner. Or at least not a beginner without a strong background in fine model making or clear idea what's involved here. I appreciate everyone's input on this, I have been watching youtube videos and I know what's involved, I will be getting a reflow oven and all the required gear, it's a cool hobby, and if I screw it up, it's only money, and not even a lot. Keep up the good work and keep the advice coming |
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But I do like the idea and would like to offer that. I guess in the end, if I can't get parts then neither can my customers on their own, most likely, so they don't really lose out. How does everyone feel about that? Pre-sell kits and then see where the chips fall?
Sign me up please. I understand the realities of someone trying to source parts, especially in quantity to make kits and I understand you're not a warehouse. I would gladly send the BTC and wait for your kits to come in. when they do come in, I'd be taking a lot of time to assemble them myself anyway since it's been years since I've actually soldered anything serious. If I was in a hurry I'd let one of the group buys assembly houses take care of everything for me. Right now I'm on Steamboat's groupbuy and let his guys put it all together. But the next batch I'd like to do myself as there will be less rush. |
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I am an engineer with a background in aerodynamics/fluids and am capable of performing Heat/CFD simulations. Is there any way I can contribute to the heat sink/dissipation design. I can't promise anything but I can try if I had more understanding of what the goals/design are.
Awesome! :-) Quick question about watercooling: How about building a simple aluminum "box" from 5mm aluminum, no fins or similar, and screwing the K16s on that? We could use both sides of the cooler and it would be pretty easy to build. I guess even with a low waterstream it should cool the board enough? Cooling the water with a big radiator and a fan, outside, 35°C outside-temp worstcase. With a few dozen watt per 100cm² this should be a piece of cake for the actual cooler? Your gut-feeling is enough for me now :-) (Else we might migrate to the K16 DIY thread) Ente I like this idea, its very doable and would be very power efficient. I dont think you would want a basic Aluminium box shape though. Best approach may be to use a heat sink 200 x 200 x 20 minimum with a gap between fins centreline of about 10mm. Trim each alternate fin by 15mm from its edge and do the same on the opposite side but on staggered fins from those first cut. Weld the end plates and then place a flat rubber mat (2mm thick) 195 x 195 on top of the fins and the closing plate on the top, then seal weld all around. Use a 10mm aluminium nipple for the inlet and outlet which will be on opposite diagonals. The water path would then "snake" backwards and forwards as it travelled laterally from inlet to outlet. The fins are important as they will transfer the heat evenly into the moving water like a conventional tube heat exchanger. The outlet would be fitted with a rubber hose which transports the water well away from the rig before it is squirted onto the top of a vertical (fine) corrugated plastic sheeting, as the water runs down, it is cooled rapidly by a few 20 W desk fans blowing cool air onto the corrugated surface. The cool water is collected in a simple plastic reservoir and pumped back up a rubber tube to the inlet via a submersible adjustable aquarium pump. PCB would have to be attached to sinks by double sided adhesive thermal pads and only use Aluminium nipples as any other different metal will cause galvanic corrosion and cause leaks. A low power small aquarium pump of say 20 LPM would do nicely. Flow can be adjusted until the heatsink outlet temperature is low enough. It is something I might just try  cheers, kev I thought about doing the same thing to the heatsink, making the water snake around before exiting.. I'm not sure about the cooling setup with the fans though, while effective, it causes evaporation, you'd have to refill the water tank daily, not to mention raising the humidity in your house to mold-causing levels. I would rather park a radiator under my house and one outside and run the water through those. |
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Keep up the good work BKKCoins,
enjoy your hobby, don't let anyone pressure you.
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I wouldn't mind seeing a Klondike 4 chip board eventually. Not sure how you would power it.
The Klondike 1 appeals to people that don't have ATI video card already, but a Klondike 4 chip would appeal to people who do but are on a lower budget.
I thought you could put only 4 chips in a K16 board and it would still work? The board kits themselves don't appear to be that expensive [based on preliminary info] |
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Hi Bkk,
I'm not looking to resell the k16 but I am looking to create a bunch of them for myself, I was planning on buying my boards off you. Is there a way I can just pay you a flat rate for the exact number of pics that I'm looking to image? I already know how many boards I'm going to create and it just seems easier this way.
I'm sure it can be arranged. The other idea is something I'm toying with, figuring out. I'm in the same boat, I'll be happy to compensate you for your work. I'm looking at building a 64 chip rig right now, that's about as much as I can afford. edit: in fact, if you could provide a 'parts kit' that you make money on, was what I was expecting. I would like to do the assembly and purchase the avalon chips myself. |
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Going back to the unique ID per board, I think there's an easier solution instead of using a serial number, why not have a set of say 8 jumpers or dip switches on the boards, so we can configure our own unique IDs with those, that'll give you 256 different board ids, assuming the PIC can read the jumpers.
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Phew, I'm finally able to post in other places then the n00b forum.
I would be interested in having an assembly company build a few boards for me in the US (sensei's guys?) depending on how much they charge.
it seems like I would be able to assemble my own boards pretty easily either from a kit or from parts ordered from digikey or somewhere like that directly. I've been watching smt soldering tutorials and reading what I can, seems like it's something a home user can handle, although you probably don't want to build too many boards before it becomes tedious.
I guess I better jump on an avalon group buy and try to grab say 64 chips.
Nice work BKK, your efforts are appreciated.
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My email took over a week to get a reply to, I'm sure they're getting flooded with it and they didn't hire any staff to handle it.
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The 4 hour thing is really obnoxious, I want to buy my way out with 0.01 btc |
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My i7 cranks out a hefty 13.5MH/sec  totally not worth the hassle. |
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Yeah, you have a total online time of 37 minutes at the moment.
They should just give people the option to pay 0.001 btc to skip by all that posting in the n00b forum for 4 hours nonsense |
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I'm still researching building my own miner with avalon chips, it seems doable, there's a guy working on an open source board design.
I expect my gpu (amd 7970) to be unprofitable by december or so.
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Hi there, another noob checking in, long time lurker, second time poster |
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