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Author Topic: Klondike - 16 chip ASIC Open Source Board - Preliminary  (Read 435366 times)
driksson
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July 20, 2013, 03:57:49 PM
 #2481


But I do like the idea and would like to offer that. I guess in the end, if I can't get parts then neither can my customers on their own, most likely, so they don't really lose out. How does everyone feel about that? Pre-sell kits and then see where the chips fall?

Sign me up please.
I understand the realities of someone trying to source parts, especially in quantity to make kits and I understand you're not a warehouse.
I would gladly send the BTC and wait for your kits to come in.

when they do come in, I'd be taking a lot of time to assemble them myself anyway since it's been years since I've actually soldered anything serious. If I was in a hurry I'd let one of the group buys assembly houses take care of everything for me. Right now I'm on Steamboat's groupbuy and let his guys put it all together.
But the next batch I'd like to do myself as there will be less rush.

i dont recommend you doing it yourself, even with experience. these boards are done best by machines.
pixl8tr
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July 20, 2013, 04:06:10 PM
 #2482


i dont recommend you doing it yourself, even with experience. these boards are done best by machines.

+1  
Yes, some of the components can fit on the edge of a quarter ($.25 USD) with room to spare.  You will not be using a soldering iron on those with any reliability.
Strictly Solder paste stencil, P&P, and reflow oven for these.  Unless you are ***REALLY*** talented and have hands like a surgeon.    Cool

  

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July 20, 2013, 04:35:12 PM
 #2483

How can i burning the firmware to PIC16LF1459-I/SS?  Huh   Microchip PICKIT3? Thank you.
BkkCoins (OP)
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July 20, 2013, 04:49:12 PM
 #2484

How can i burning the firmware to PIC16LF1459-I/SS?  Huh   Microchip PICKIT3? Thank you.
Yes, that will work fine. You have to mount it on the board first, then press a 5 pin header attached to the PICkit3 to the pads on the board. Make sure it's the right way round.

simon66
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July 20, 2013, 07:15:30 PM
 #2485

How can i burning the firmware to PIC16LF1459-I/SS?  Huh   Microchip PICKIT3? Thank you.
Yes, that will work fine. You have to mount it on the board first, then press a 5 pin header attached to the PICkit3 to the pads on the board. Make sure it's the right way round.

I want to buy a few of these, when would they be shipped? I'm guessing in a month or so, right?
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July 21, 2013, 04:22:53 AM
 #2486


i dont recommend you doing it yourself, even with experience. these boards are done best by machines.

+1  
Yes, some of the components can fit on the edge of a quarter ($.25 USD) with room to spare.  You will not be using a soldering iron on those with any reliability.
Strictly Solder paste stencil, P&P, and reflow oven for these.  Unless you are ***REALLY*** talented and have hands like a surgeon.    Cool

  

What. Even the components that fit on the edge of a dime aren't that bad. I'm more worried about the tiny QFN48 package on the ASIC.

pixl8tr
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July 21, 2013, 10:27:24 AM
 #2487


What. Even the components that fit on the edge of a dime aren't that bad. I'm more worried about the tiny QFN48 package on the ASIC.

You are one of the talented people I was talking about then. ;-)   Have you seen this video?  Some good tips on soldering QFN packages. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_rO6oPVsws

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BkkCoins (OP)
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July 21, 2013, 11:22:08 AM
 #2488


What. Even the components that fit on the edge of a dime aren't that bad. I'm more worried about the tiny QFN48 package on the ASIC.

You are one of the talented people I was talking about then. ;-)   Have you seen this video?  Some good tips on soldering QFN packages. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_rO6oPVsws
To build either the K16 or K1 you need to be detail oriented and capable of fine work with small parts. I didn't find it terribly hard with any of the parts using tweezers but I think the ASIC packages are a bit easier with vacuum tweezers ($5 on ebay). I may add those to my store if people want them. You will want some kind of magnifying work light or head piece because getting good position without is going to be near impossible.

However, you aren't going to do either of these boards with a soldering iron. The only way really to get good results is with solder paste, stencil and oven. Going this way the only hard part is placing the parts on the board. You have to be very methodical in making sure each part is in the correct place and oriented correctly, and this will likely take several hours at least per board. A mistake can be disastrous. If that step is done properly then the reflow oven step is quite easy and quick, and you should have a working board within minutes.

I'll be putting together a PDF assembly guide with step by step placement diagrams and check lists to help with this, but as I've stressed a few times this is not a project for a beginner. Or at least not a beginner without a strong background in fine model making or clear idea what's involved here.


Bicknellski
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July 21, 2013, 12:59:20 PM
 #2489


What. Even the components that fit on the edge of a dime aren't that bad. I'm more worried about the tiny QFN48 package on the ASIC.

You are one of the talented people I was talking about then. ;-)   Have you seen this video?  Some good tips on soldering QFN packages. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_rO6oPVsws
To build either the K16 or K1 you need to be detail oriented and capable of fine work with small parts. I didn't find it terribly hard with any of the parts using tweezers but I think the ASIC packages are a bit easier with vacuum tweezers ($5 on ebay). I may add those to my store if people want them. You will want some kind of magnifying work light or head piece because getting good position without is going to be near impossible.

However, you aren't going to do either of these boards with a soldering iron. The only way really to get good results is with solder paste, stencil and oven. Going this way the only hard part is placing the parts on the board. You have to be very methodical in making sure each part is in the correct place and oriented correctly, and this will likely take several hours at least per board. A mistake can be disastrous. If that step is done properly then the reflow oven step is quite easy and quick, and you should have a working board within minutes.

I'll be putting together a PDF assembly guide with step by step placement diagrams and check lists to help with this, but as I've stressed a few times this is not a project for a beginner. Or at least not a beginner without a strong background in fine model making or clear idea what's involved here.



I can't wait to see that PDF. For my students just doing the bump and reflow of the ASIC only on K1s. It would be nice to see a video of one of these boards being made so I can show the kids how it is done. If anyone does build it DIY please post some video then I can use it as part of curriculum for the students.

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July 21, 2013, 01:11:23 PM
 #2490

I can't wait to see that PDF. For my students just doing the bump and reflow of the ASIC only on K1s. It would be nice to see a video of one of these boards being made so I can show the kids how it is done. If anyone does build it DIY please post some video then I can use it as part of curriculum for the students.

Sounds like you foster new bitcoiners... Smiley

Please ALWAYS contact me through bitcointalk pm before sending someone coins.
Bicknellski
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July 21, 2013, 01:22:40 PM
 #2491

I can't wait to see that PDF. For my students just doing the bump and reflow of the ASIC only on K1s. It would be nice to see a video of one of these boards being made so I can show the kids how it is done. If anyone does build it DIY please post some video then I can use it as part of curriculum for the students.

Sounds like you foster new bitcoiners... Smiley

Responsible human beings is the goal, but ya bitcoin will be part of the curriculum.

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Spotswood
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July 21, 2013, 02:20:30 PM
 #2492

With the main board resting on a table with hashing boards plugged into it...what is the total height?

pixl8tr
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July 21, 2013, 02:25:46 PM
Last edit: July 21, 2013, 02:41:38 PM by pixl8tr
 #2493

With the main board resting on a table with hashing boards plugged into it...what is the total height?


MAybe you are confusing the K-16 with the Bit Fury offering?  The K-16 is a single board than can be chained with others via a jumper, and controlled by USB.
See the OP in this thread for a diagram.   Total height without the Heatsink is probably less than 10mm.


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Spotswood
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July 21, 2013, 02:50:18 PM
 #2494

With the main board resting on a table with hashing boards plugged into it...what is the total height?


MAybe you are confusing the K-16 with the Bit Fury offering?  The K-16 is a single board than can be chained with others via a jumper, and controlled by USB.
See the OP in this thread for a diagram.   Total height without the Heatsink is probably less than 10mm.


Indeed.  My apologies. 

Vycid
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July 21, 2013, 09:25:13 PM
 #2495

Could anyone provide me with a link or a partnumber for the I2C jumpers or cables I'll need to connect my K16s together? I have a single Raspberry Pi I plan to use as the host, and 8 K16 boards on order.

erk
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July 21, 2013, 09:36:12 PM
 #2496

With the main board resting on a table with hashing boards plugged into it...what is the total height?


There is no "main board" KI6 are stand alone devices.
ryepdx
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July 21, 2013, 09:38:24 PM
 #2497

Could anyone provide me with a link or a partnumber for the I2C jumpers or cables I'll need to connect my K16s together? I have a single Raspberry Pi I plan to use as the host, and 8 K16 boards on order.

I suspect you'll need these: https://klondikedesign.com/?product=klego-connector

I've already bought a bunch for the people in my assembly service who want to connect their K16s together. I'll be distributing them with the miners.
Lollaskates
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July 22, 2013, 02:07:37 AM
 #2498

Could anyone provide me with a link or a partnumber for the I2C jumpers or cables I'll need to connect my K16s together? I have a single Raspberry Pi I plan to use as the host, and 8 K16 boards on order.

I suspect you'll need these: https://klondikedesign.com/?product=klego-connector

I've already bought a bunch for the people in my assembly service who want to connect their K16s together. I'll be distributing them with the miners.
does that need some soldering? Or is that just pop it on and connect the K16s. Also, are the I2C klegos shipped with each K16 steamboat, or are they purchased separately
BkkCoins (OP)
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July 22, 2013, 03:21:51 AM
 #2499

Could anyone provide me with a link or a partnumber for the I2C jumpers or cables I'll need to connect my K16s together? I have a single Raspberry Pi I plan to use as the host, and 8 K16 boards on order.

I suspect you'll need these: https://klondikedesign.com/?product=klego-connector

I've already bought a bunch for the people in my assembly service who want to connect their K16s together. I'll be distributing them with the miners.
does that need some soldering? Or is that just pop it on and connect the K16s. Also, are the I2C klegos shipped with each K16 steamboat, or are they purchased separately
I was planning to pre-solder them but you gave me the idea now to just include tiny pcb and pin headers because I'm going to be so swamped to get everything packed and shipped quickly.  Grin

I believe steamboat is including small cables with each board but he would have to clarify if that would instead of or in addition to a klego, and how long it is. Check in his thread.

simon66
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July 22, 2013, 04:45:16 AM
 #2500

Could anyone provide me with a link or a partnumber for the I2C jumpers or cables I'll need to connect my K16s together? I have a single Raspberry Pi I plan to use as the host, and 8 K16 boards on order.

I suspect you'll need these: https://klondikedesign.com/?product=klego-connector

I've already bought a bunch for the people in my assembly service who want to connect their K16s together. I'll be distributing them with the miners.
does that need some soldering? Or is that just pop it on and connect the K16s. Also, are the I2C klegos shipped with each K16 steamboat, or are they purchased separately
I was planning to pre-solder them but you gave me the idea now to just include tiny pcb and pin headers because I'm going to be so swamped to get everything packed and shipped quickly.  Grin

I believe steamboat is including small cables with each board but he would have to clarify if that would instead of or in addition to a klego, and how long it is. Check in his thread.

I was thinking about setting up a group buy for the k16 parts. This would help most miners get their units at a much cheaper price. What do you think?
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