Hi. I'm looking to get one of these cards, but I'm not sure of the price range. Could someone help me around here?. What's the normal price for a 5970 and for a 6990?. I'm getting money in about 2 weeks tops, so this will be a quote basically. Thanks in advance!.

I don't think so, by being 6-digit numeric password there are few combinations to try. I guess it could be bruteforced in two months max.

They really ask you for your documents when leaving cans?. Just say you're a hobo and got no ID nor car.

Yep, normally I pre-cut the circle shape with a blade, and just place it. And, just for you to know, opening the fan by "pulling" it out like you say (prying off the part that has the blades out of the part that has the motor) works for certain types of fans only, I did it with a 9400GT I got paid to repair. The fans that support it normally don't have a "sealed" hole like the fans we use, they're just flat both sides.

Can you check using GPU-Z?. It makes a graph with your clocks, voltages and temperatures.

Try removing --auto-gpu flag.

It was an obvious scammer, I have APG(Android Privacy Guard, sign/encrypt/decrypt files and messages with GPG), with Lastpass. That's why I ask lendees to authenticate on #bitcoin-otc at least if they can't sign a message for me.

Well, your UPS is only line-interactive, meaning it normally has an auto-transformer (transformer with only one winding, no isolation), with several taps to compensate for slight over-voltage(normally up to 140V) or under-voltage(normally down to 90V), to get your line voltage closer to 120V. This is very common in consumer UPS appliances, as it's cost is lower than an online UPS. When the power goes above or below the capabilities of regulation of the auto-transformer, it switches to battery power, giving an "approximation to a sine wave". That doesn't look like a sine wave, but it works in 99.99% of equipment as it maintains the same peak voltage and compensates the width to maintain a close RMS voltage to the nominal one. There are myths telling that PSUs with Active PFC don't work with pseudo-sine wave UPSs, but that's normally a lie, you may experience buzzing at most on those PSUs when running on batteries. If the UPS was interfering, it should only fail when you experience a power failure, not on normal filtered line power.

On the other hand, there are online UPSs that rectify and invert the power, making the power 100% clean always, and your computer is isolated from the grid, so in the case of severe interference/lighting strikes it's very unlikely you'll get damage. But that comes at a huge cost, those units for about 1000 VA are about 200-300$ new, although you can find them sometimes on eBay/geeks.com at 100$ refurbished.

Personally I got a true sine-wave UPS from eBay, at 60$ used with no batteries, and then got two 130AH deep cycle batteries. I use the UPS for my main rig and a small mining rig, and I get like 8-10h at least without mining.

I was thinking about it, this type of writing style reminds me of 419 scams I get on my mail every day since the Mt.Gox leak. So, nope man.

Just use lastpass, and if you're really paranoid/installing pirated apps from sketchy websites use avast mobile security.

Just to know, what's the difference between you and https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?action=profile;u=5705?. Are you the same guy or what?

I'm microwaving my popcorns over here.

Ohhh, this is EXACTLY what I do. Did you read it on one of my posts?. I replace the sticker with duct tape, and then fan is good for at least 6 more months!.

I just flashed my router(WR741ND) with DD-WRT, to check if stability is improved. If not I think I'll get a WRT54GL. Thanks to all for your advice.

Hi. I'm looking for a stable wireless router. I had a WR641G that hanged about 2 times a day, requiring power cycling, when used in router mode (AP mode didn't cause fail). Then I got a WR741N, borrowed new in box from a close friend, and it also hangs requiring power cycling about once every two days. Power supplies were changed, router was configured by myself and everything. I'm really tired of these crappy TP-LINK routers stopping my mining at night, although I don't blame the brand, I may have got two lemons.

I'm looking for a nice router to buy. I prefer stability over Wi-Fi speed, I'd prefer at least 802.11N 150M, but 802.11g will do (there's a lot of RF pollution over here caused by having a lot of wireless networks nearby, I may need that wallpaper that reflects 2.4GHz RF). My price range is preferably 50$ or less, although I may get up to 75$ if it's really worth it.

I'm looking for models that are in newegg/amazon, not looking for used stuff right now. Please tell me your personal experiences with your routers, and recommend me some  .

I think you've got too much overhead in items that aren't GPUs if you only get 1 GPU per computer. The more cost effective rigs are 4-5 GPUs each.

First, if you're going to buy the riser without molex 1x-16x, buy these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DQRUZ8 , and thank me for your savings(I have 5 of those in my rig with 5830s, working fine for 2 months until now)

From what I know, the molex powered risers are for using more than 5 cards in motherboards that don't have a molex near PCI-E ports, like the one in the image. Most motherboards LACK that connector, so you'll need risers for more than 5 normal GPUs or you'll fry the 12V pins in the 24-pin ATX mobo connector.



By normal GPU I mean 5830-like power consumption. With 5870s I think it's max 4 with unpowered risers per mobo. With 5970s and any DUAL-GPU card you NEED powered risers, or you'll fry the small 12V wires in the riser(they pull more power from the PCI-E slot).

With my Asrock Extreme4 970, I have 5 5830s with no powered risers, running fine.

With the riser length, I don't really know, and I can't find info online. You should buy the unpowered 1x-1x riser(http://cablesaurus.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1&product_id=8), and use it from mobo to the other riser. Then you should use the powered 1x-16x riser (http://cablesaurus.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1&product_id=28) from riser to GPU, to minimize heat and losses by wiring length.

From what I understand, if you mine with slush's pool(mining.bitcoin.cz) and you don't specify a Namecoin address, you still generate them, but your reward goes to the miners that specified a namecoin address. So, with that I made some profit at the beginning of merged mining.

I've solved 6 blocks for Slush and I've only got 240 BTC on payouts. Anyways it's a zero sum game(minus fee), so I can't really complain.

Tomba is very patient, I had a delay of like 6 hours and he waited without complaining at all. Nice customer, no hassles with payment.