Thanks for naming the people who where involved in this. Great appreciation for doing this and helping the community. There is one proposal which i would want to make: Instead of using thermal paste use thermal pads, and place them in the way like this: Black should be the thermal pad. Red is the area which should not be covered by the thermal pad. Problem with the thermal paste is that the heatsink actually lies on the red parts and if you tighten the screws too much you risk to crack soldering of those parts. ( I had this on 5 units, which i needed to resolder and from now on i stick only with thermal pads. I'll recommend this one: http://www.amazon.de/Phobya-W%C3%A4rmeleitpad-XT-1x120x20-wei%C3%9F/dp/B0051C287K
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Starting bid: 1@950€ Smallest increment: 5€
Auction starts now!
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Hello Everyone, i wanted to try something new and came now up with the following idea: What you get:The possibility to get the fastest and cheapest Gridseeds on the market probably remanufactured with best possible quality. Each Unit will hash with at least 494kh/s and some will also be able to go even higher as i use high quality thermal pads to increase stability dramatically. Also will each units fan ground rail be soldered to the 5V USB GND. That means Silent Fan, with NO EXTRA powerdraw on the 5V USB Rail. Powerdraw per unit is 18W and for one package 180W. Bidding:You bid per package and one package includes ten miner units with an Hashratee of ~5Mh/s. Bidding style: 1@950€ for example means (one package at the price of 950€). Highest bid wins all the time. For Example: A says 10@950€ and B says 1@960€ then A will get 9 packages and B will get 1. Auction will be done in € and biddings will be converted to BTC at the end of Auction. Shipping:Preparation time from day of payment till day of sending will be 5 days. Shipping inside of Germany 6,99€ Shipping inside of EU 16,99€ Payment:Amount of bidding will be exchanged to Bitcoin and being paid directly after Auction. Exchange rate: ( Kraken BTC/EUR). If you take more than 6 hours to pay, the bought articels will go to the lower bidder. Trustratings:FirstSecondProof of how they work stable > 24h.( Shows only units with offered modification.) Summary:You get silent and stable ~5Mh/s modded with best quality and head for little more OC at 180WStarting bid: 950€ Lowest increment: 5€ Auction ends at 21.04.2014 at 18:00GMT.
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I clicked mistakenly on post. I wanted to add some more details. Post will be delted and reopened with more information.
Sorry.
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Hello Everyone, i wanted to try something new and came now up with the following idea. What i want: A little income for my further studies at the university What you want: Cheap, stable and fast working Gridseeds What you get:The possibility to get the fastest and cheapest Gridseeds on the market probably remanufactured with best possible quality. Each Unit will hash with at least 494kh/s and some will also be able to go even higher as i use high quality thermal pads to increase stability dramatically. Also will each units fan ground rail be soldered to the 5V USB GND. That means Silent Fan, with NO EXTRA powerdraw on the 5V USB Rail. So in short: 4940kh/s per package, all fans being silent and due to best thermal solution head for overclocking to about 530kh/s. [/b] Proof of how they work stable > 24h.(I only highlighted the Units which i did with the mods i will actually do with the Units offered here.)
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Just an update
I applied some ceramic base thermal paste (Not electrically conductive) and re-ran my pods. After 15 hours all my pods have over 5000 Accepted shares with 0 HW errors.
Looking good so far!
I can fully advise to add thermal paste too. Had similar results here. Most of my pods run with 1188mhz with the 47k + thermal paste. (sure there are still some who are not able to run that high, but it definitely has a positive effect)
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Actually i would be really carefull and NOT just soldering it. It's actually a frequency filter which acts also like a fuse. As its possible that your pod is still alive, dont break it with just soldering the broken parts.
From wikipedia: A ferrite bead is a passive electric component that suppresses high frequency noise in electronic circuits. It is a specific type of electronic choke. Ferrite beads employ the dissipation of high frequency currents in a ferrite ceramic to build high frequency noise suppression devices. Ferrite beads may also be called blocks, cores, rings, EMI filters, or chokes.[1]
@Wolfey: Please stop to give out such advices and dont post your picture in every second post with highest resolution.
... What the FB is or what it does is irrelevant.... You actually made me laugh hard . So, you decide to bore people with our antics,,,okay- fine! and I quote.... "which acts also like a fuse" WRONG! Laugh at that Each object which bricks at a certain amount of power is technically a fuse, yes. So over 3A the ferrite pearl bricks.
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Actually i would be really carefull and NOT just soldering it. It's actually a frequency filter which acts also like a fuse. As its possible that your pod is still alive, dont break it with just soldering the broken parts.
From wikipedia: A ferrite bead is a passive electric component that suppresses high frequency noise in electronic circuits. It is a specific type of electronic choke. Ferrite beads employ the dissipation of high frequency currents in a ferrite ceramic to build high frequency noise suppression devices. Ferrite beads may also be called blocks, cores, rings, EMI filters, or chokes.[1]
@Wolfey: Please stop to give out such advices and dont post your picture in every second post with highest resolution.
... What the FB is or what it does is irrelevant.... You actually made me laugh hard .
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You don't have to replace the FB just to see if the unit will still work or not. Bypass it and fire up the pod again and see if it will mine in Scrypt ONLY mode! Make sure you clean up those solder connections first, too. If it works, get and replace the FB. If not, then it's now a brick and will make a nice ornament or paper weight. We've been saying all along, ever since the first attempt at over-volting. This mod is for Scrypt only mode! Do not attempt to use SHA or DUAL mode with this mod. Bad things can happen! ... ************************************************* ************************************************* ... Actually i would be really carefull and NOT just soldering it. It's actually a frequency filter which acts also like a fuse. As its possible that your pod is still alive, dont break it with just soldering the broken parts. From wikipedia: A ferrite bead is a passive electric component that suppresses high frequency noise in electronic circuits. It is a specific type of electronic choke. Ferrite beads employ the dissipation of high frequency currents in a ferrite ceramic to build high frequency noise suppression devices. Ferrite beads may also be called blocks, cores, rings, EMI filters, or chokes.[1] @Wolfey: Please stop to give out such advices and dont post your picture in every second post with highest resolution.
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Ok so I did the voltage mod on all 14 of my gridseeds last night. When I went to bed all 14 were mining just fine. Today I moved to a different pool and I just checked on my cgminer only 11 were submitting shares 3 of them had 0 WU and weren't submitting any shares but the red and green lights are flashing on all 14 Gs ? Any ideas? It was only running for a half hour when I noticed this should I just let it run longer and see if they start working like they should?
Do you still use fans on the units? Did they submit shares again, after restarting cgminer?
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Hi nemercry, bist du sicher dass die Fan-Mod eine gute Idee ist? Ich wollte das auch machen, aber Wolfey sagt dazu: DO NOT CONNECT POWER TO THE FAN THIS WAY THROUGH THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR! It's not actually connected to a 'real' - ground source. It's floating and that is dangerous in itself and could harm the electronics of the pod if the fan goes bad or there is a short. It's not a valid solution electrically speaking the way it is powered on the 12V rail side using the Voltage Regulator as a floating ground connection. That is not what it's made to do.
Gruß, David Hallo David, zig hat das ganz gut erklärt. Solange die Last auf dem Bauteil unter 3A liegt passiert nichts. Ich würde die 0,2A vom Lüfter ehrlich gesagt lieber über den GND abführen anstatt die 0,2A über die (zumeist) schrottigen USB Hubs zu ziehen. Und dort hast du dann viel schneller Probleme wenn dein Netzteil vom Hub an seine Grenzen kommt. Can someone post details/pictures of the 5v fan mod? Is there another point to solder the fan leads to? Is it dangerous in any way (dangerous in terms of load to the newly utilized power circuit)?
Speaking of Fan mod...for silent operation...: With all my due respect to Wolfey's solution...There is another "Classic Silent fan" solution from the CPU overclocking experience...7V fan driving...between 12V and 5V power lines... How...: Disconnect the GROUND/BLACK wire from the original position...and solder back to the 5V regulator uP1707 output...this is the small / medium size 8-pin chip to the left of the 12V PS supply connector...the easiest point to connect are to the big output SMD caps to the right of the IC...C201/C203...their pins towards the center of the board...facing the square inductor close to them...this is 5V output supply... uP1707 is rated for up to 3A...so the current load of the fan should not have any effect on the circuit... Mine is running whisper quiet @ 6.69V...11.82V - 5.13V ... IMHO this is better solution ...because of the higher voltage...better performance/cooling...but still silent/no noise...not creating ANY load to 5V USB supply, preventing possible issues with USB hub(s) with many Gridseeds...not having enough juice...etc... P.S. I am assuming that everybody, interested in these mods, has already PDF schematics of the 5-chip Gridseed device from...: https://github.com/gridseed/usb-miner/tree/master/hardware
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Hallo liebe Forenuser,
aufgrund mehrmaliger Nachfrage will ich nun einen Moddingservice von Privat zu Privat anbieten. Ich würde drei Modifikationen durchführen die ich wie folgt benennen werde:- OC+:Durch erhöhung eines Vorwiderstandes wird den Chips eine höhere Voltzahl bereitgestellt. Dies lässt ein Übertakten bis 1150mhz (489kh/s) zu. Wattverbrauch der Einheit liegt dann bei ~ 18 W. - Silent Fan:Die -12V Leitung des Lüfters wird über den 5V USB_GND abgeführt. Dadurch fällt bei dem Lüfter nurnoch eine Spannung von ~ 7V an und dieser dreht wesentlich leiser. Vorteil dieser Lösung gegenüber einem Widerstand oder eine direkte anbindung des Lüfters an die USB Leitung ist, dass bei dieser Methode der USB Port keine weitere Belastung erfährt. Leider sind die verlöteten Bauteile größentechnisch etwas unausgeglichen, was das Umlöten etwas zeitaufwendig macht. - Stable Mod:Ersetzen des Standard Kühlpads durch nichtleitende Wärmeleitpaste, zur Verbesserung der Wärmeabgabe. Durch die verbesserte Wärmeabgabe bilden die Chips keine Hotspots und arbeiten wesentlich stabiler / effizienter. Minimiert Hardware Fehler. [Bild folgt] Preisvorstellung:10€ pro OC+ 2,5€ pro Silent Mod 1,5€ pro Stable Mod Akzeptierte Bezahlungsmethoden: Bargeld, Litecoin und Bitcoin. Danksagung:Zigs [folgt]
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80/100 Modded. I had one GS that was bad pre-mod and I just never noticed until I modded it. There is a small bump on one of the chips and it just freezes after about a minute. It is getting replaced. Tomorrow once I get the rest modded I will start fine tuning them and see how fast each one will go. The rework station is 50 times easier than using a soldering iron. I kept blowing the chips off until I started using flux. I can mod one of these in less than 2 minutes now. The hardest part is removing the screws. Dude, you either have amazing units or your cgminer is wrong. Even at stock freq I get rejects. Either or, nice setup. I tried running my grids of my raspbery but no luck. I assume he replaced the blue cooling pads with an actual working one or non conductive thermal paste. I tried it myself and this really gives you an increase in hashrate and much more stable operation.
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@ZiG You mean something like this? : Thanks for posting this, it was really helpful. Fuse is definitely able to take the extra amount of amperes without breaking . (Only soldering it there can be a pain in the ass, because its so tiny compared to the cable.) Thanks a lot for this smart and simple solution.
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I bought these. Yageo 47.5K ohm 100ppm SMD (Surface Mount) Thick Film Resistor 0402 1% 1/16W RC0402F (Continuous strip of 500) I have modded 3 GS's so far and they are running fine at 1150Mhz for 4 hours. I need to get a better magnifying glass to do the rest of these. It's like soldering a grain of sand. Are these OK to use? Is 1/16 ok? Good work sir! The resistor will work fine. @Amix: The idea behind the 47kOhm 1 % resistors was that we wanted to have same results for all of our modded units. With 47kOhm 5% resistors we had the problems with bad units not operating good at 1150mhz. Due to high variance in ashresistors base resistor value.
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technische Daten + ein interessanter technischer Hinweis der bei Händlern für graue Haare Sorgen wird (rot markiert):
Important Note from Gridseed: Do not plugin the 12V DC power before you have USB cable connected and setup CGMiner’s parameters to say BTC=0 or you may burn the chips. Damage caused by this is not covered under warranty. The BTC (SHA256) mode and Dual mode will generate too much heat and may break the miner. Please make sure you run at LTC (scrypt) only mode.
There are 2 PCB Panels in each Miner. Each Panel has 40 GC3355 chips. Each panel has it’s own power socket and usb port. Therefore, one 80-chip blade miner is equivalent to 16 Gridseed 5-chip USB miners Official Scrypt hashrate is 5.2M (2.6M on each panel) Scrypt only mode: 64-70W on each panel. (140W per miner) PSU/Controller/USB cables are not included.
Can you confirm that ? I red that on several pages now.
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Anyone check to see what affect this mod does to SHA mining?
I am also pretty sure that your board will just burn or just turn off. That blog is a joke. Even if it was "jamie", they didn't even cite her. Also, Everyone is saying to use a 47kOhm resistor. Can I use a 56kOhm at 1100mhz? Does it need to be 1/4W or 1/8W? I mean, I know I can increase the mhz but will it be good at 1100mhz? Thanks nemercry! Like reggie0 said, only try to go lower. With an 47kOhm 1%(the one percentage is important) and some thermal paste(non conductive only) i am pretty sure that you get stable 1150mhz on all devices.
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