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Author Topic: Antminer S5 + 3D printed mods  (Read 18251 times)
miguportugal
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May 30, 2015, 06:15:29 PM
 #41

i made a duct with Aluminium Foil Adhesive and glue to hot temps

i was doing some tests and i think the problem that the heat dont go to the heatsink and stays in the board.
A copper heatsink will solve the problem, may a copper pad with a large surface area do something.
i   will fit some heatsinks in the back off the board.

Great machine main is at 425mhz plus 1380gh
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BITMAIN
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May 31, 2015, 04:58:56 AM
 #42

It is very amazing design. Please find Bitmain's 0.25BTC small tip:

https://blockchain.info/tx/99d00109d07cac9509649c594e396d27e1e317661af94eb628c6d28f1b1b0d05


Cloud Mining? Just Go to Hashnest.com          Best Liquidity   Lowest Price   100% Real Mining Back Up
notlist3d
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May 31, 2015, 05:05:21 AM
 #43

It is very amazing design. Please find Bitmain's 0.25BTC small tip:

https://blockchain.info/tx/99d00109d07cac9509649c594e396d27e1e317661af94eb628c6d28f1b1b0d05



Great to see Bitmain supporting this!  Seems like a promising future on these type of parts.   

Once again impressed with Bitmain Smiley  And still blown away with Vorta's designs.
Vorta (OP)
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May 31, 2015, 02:55:22 PM
 #44

Thank you very much for the tip, Bitmain!  Cheesy

Thank you, nolist3d! Smiley
valkir
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June 01, 2015, 12:24:25 AM
 #45

Wow nice Vorta! Congratz man! Hard work always paid back .  Grin

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lovenlifelarge
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June 02, 2015, 03:22:38 PM
 #46

I've posted a picture of my miner while it's mods were still in testing & development here: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=7216.msg11340538#msg11340538

I didn't want to go into details until I got everything done and tested.

I've tried several things with the miner to find the best solution for my case. The problem with S5 is that it has quite a bad cooling solution. A lot of air runs out of the heatsink cold or doesn't even go into it, so Bitmain compensates that with a lot of CFM and a lot of noise.
The fan that comes with the miner seems to be the Delta 120 x 25mm Extreme High-Speed Fan, or an exact copy of it.

Before I even got the miner I searched for the best CFM vs. sound ratio fan and what I found was Scythe Ultra Kaze, which I'm now using on both of my miners. Push configuration is enough when it's not too hot in the ambient (up to 35°C), push-pull when it's hot, to still be able to run miners overclocked.

I'm from Croatia and it tends to get really hot in the summer, so I had to get the miner temperature vs. ambient temperature difference as low as I could.

To do so I've:
  • Repasted the miner with a much better termal paste,
  • Added mini heatsinks on the external side of the hashboards with adhesive termal paste (to the first miner only, as second came with them),
  • Closed the miner's heatsink with 3D printed plates so no air can run out on the top or bottom sides,
  • Added fan ducts between fans and miners which direct most of the air through the main heatsink and blow just a little bit of air to external heatsinks, just to drive some airflow on the sides.

One of the Bitmain's design flaws worth mentioning is the fact that thermal sensors for the hash boards are on the outer side (instead of heatsink side) and are very sensitive to airflow. When using fan ducts that completely block off the side airflow and direct all of the airflow through the miner, I was getting the actual temperatures, which were 20°C higher than regularly displayed. That's why Bitmain recommends that you keep your miner under 60°C even though the safety limit is 80°C. When reaching 80°C with stock fan, I'm quite certain the chips at the end of the heatsink are >100°C.

Here's the miner I'll be modifying for this thread:


The first thing I did was repasting the chips, which wasn't too hard, just dull. Just unscrewed every screw the miner has and carefully separated the hash board from the heatsink. I've cleaned the heatsink and the chips with paper towel. Here's the chips before and after. I didn't care much about the paste on the sides.


I've put the new paste on and screwed the thing back together.

The next thing I added were the bottom plates. I've used the M3 x 10mm screws to screw them to the bottom. For some reason, this miner's heatsink's screw holes are so shallow I had to use nuts to tightly hold the plastic.


The bottom plates are flat on one side, but feature a bulge on the other side, to prevent air running in the gap between them and the heatsink. Here's what it looks like on both of my miners, when one of 2 plates is removed. Wherever I felt cold air coming out of the miner I've tried my best to close that part off and force the most air through the main heatsink.


Then come the top covers. These covers were a bit difficult to design as they also have to replace the metal plate which holds the main board. Here it is on the miner:


This way air is forced through the whole heatsink before allowed to go out, allowing you to use lower CFM fan and achieve the same temperatures.

Here are both of my miners with the main boards screwed onto the top plates. The screws screw in into the plastic perfectly. I prefer having my ethernet cable running out of the miner at the top. It's also easier to see status lights and ethernet activity. It is just as easy to have it all on the bottom.



Now we're going to have a look at fan ducts and legs that hold the miner vertically. Legs took me some time to get the height properly so that the fan can take in enough air.


Legs are not necessary and your miners can be horizontal, if you wish. I was following the natural motion of the hot air so I prefer having them vertical. The legs are designed to match the Scythe Ultra Kaze fan's housing and they can be screwed onto it with the screws that come with the fan. Gluing them on is also an option if you don't plan to take them off.
Leg, screw and the fan are shown in the picture:


On the top image you can also see how I screwed in the fan to the miner, having the fan duct stuck in the middle. I've deliberately used these screws because, as you can see on the following image, I don't have to take the legs off if I want to unscrew the fan to clean the dust. Screws are screwed in by hand and then just tightened a little bit with the tool on the picture:

Screws are M4x40mm.

This is the bottom fan duct:


It is designed to force the most air into the main heatsink, with little gaps letting the air through to side heatsinks and thermistors. The only reason for this is to force the air to move around external heatsinks and affect the thermistor. If there were no gaps at all, the temperature readout would equal pretty close to ASIC's core temperature. The fan duct perfectly fits the miner on one side and a 120mm fan on the other.


I have also replaced the default screws that hold the miner's front side to heatsink. They were sticking out too much and fan duct would have 2mm gap from the miner. I've used some flat top M3x5mm screws I got from China a while back.

The top fan duct is different, featuring no side gaps:


It also perfectly fits the miner.


The fan screws on top just as easy as it is with the bottom duct:



Since the screws are 40mm and fans are ~30mm thick, getting them in so that they would not fall too short when the fan duct is in between is important. You want the screws to be positioned like this:


To do so, put the screw you're adding like this:


Take your screwdriver and start screwing it in. The plastic will be dragging it in as you're screwing.


In the end it will just fall in.


You will probably damage a tiny bit of plastic, but not enough to void warranty or anything like that. I had one of the fans going back under warranty because of excessive vibration. Got a new one back without a problem.

The end result is something like this:


My PSU of choice is the Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W, because of it's extremely high efficiency.

Here are the results for both of the miners after running for 24h at 400MHz, ambient temperature was ~25°C during the night and maxed around ~35°C during the day.
The older miner with bigger gap between heatsinks and custom external heatsinks:


The newer (green plastic) miner:


Very, very low number of hardware errors, so I'm calling this a success and am planning to keep them running like this, as ambient temperatures will probably reach 40°C during the day sooner rather than later.

Here you can download all of the STLs for the 3D printed parts: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22363327/S5%203D%20printed%20mods.7z
If you're feeling generous, my address for donations is: 1F7itYL4vDh4BfHy8m4KnVx1UqgS462Ej6

You may use my designs for your own miners, please do post photos if you mod some!
If you have any questions, do not hesitate.

U dont happen to have a C1 do u?? If u could come up with something for it, I'll gladly pay u for it...

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notlist3d
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June 02, 2015, 03:41:02 PM
 #47

U dont happen to have a C1 do u?? If u could come up with something for it, I'll gladly pay u for it...

He as done amazing job.  And with the green really pop's and looks amazing.

What part are you thinking you need made for C1?
Vorta (OP)
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June 02, 2015, 04:42:22 PM
 #48

Here's a sound comparison of 2 different setups you can have with printed mods and a comparison with stock fan as well. Absolute loudness cannot be properly shown through video, but relative loudness of one setup compared to the other can easily be observed.

The video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBtvmuRuuHo

U dont happen to have a C1 do u?? If u could come up with something for it, I'll gladly pay u for it...

I don't have a C1, only 2 S5s. Since C1 is water cooled I don't see an improvement that could be made over that. Water cooling my S5s was one of the options I was considering prior to going into development presented mods.


And with the green really pop's and looks amazing.

I actually spent all of my black plastic and didn't want to wait for the delivey of another roll (hence the orange back plate on the other miner as well). Grin It did come out better than expected, but this green is of quite a weird tone. It looks different in every photo.
Crypto84
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June 02, 2015, 07:17:38 PM
 #49

Here's a sound comparison of 2 different setups you can have with printed mods and a comparison with stock fan as well. Absolute loudness cannot be properly shown through video, but relative loudness of one setup compared to the other can easily be observed.

The video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBtvmuRuuHo

U dont happen to have a C1 do u?? If u could come up with something for it, I'll gladly pay u for it...

I don't have a C1, only 2 S5s. Since C1 is water cooled I don't see an improvement that could be made over that. Water cooling my S5s was one of the options I was considering prior to going into development presented mods.


And with the green really pop's and looks amazing.

I actually spent all of my black plastic and didn't want to wait for the delivey of another roll (hence the orange back plate on the other miner as well). Grin It did come out better than expected, but this green is of quite a weird tone. It looks different in every photo.

That stock fan literally sounds like a vacuum cleaner! lol
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June 02, 2015, 07:25:11 PM
 #50

Got my printer all set up for these, here are a few first test prints:




and were ready for mass production!



Printing my last sets that I need and should start shipping the sets people have contacted me about  by the end of the week! (takes about 12 hours to print a whole set).

Project Apollo: A Pod Miner Designed for the Home https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=4974036
FutureBit Moonlander 2 USB Scrypt Stick Miner: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=2125643.0
aarons6
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June 02, 2015, 08:56:05 PM
 #51



Printing my last sets that I need and should start shipping the sets people have contacted me about  by the end of the week! (takes about 12 hours to print a whole set).
how much for just the top and bottom plates. dont need the fan part or the legs.
arielf
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June 03, 2015, 01:34:10 AM
 #52

verry amazing design & wow...you got support for bitmain
 Cheesy
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June 05, 2015, 01:03:15 PM
 #53

Here are both of my miners with the main boards screwed onto the top plates. The screws screw in into the plastic perfectly. I prefer having my ethernet cable running out of the miner at the top. It's also easier to see status lights and ethernet activity. It is just as easy to have it all on the bottom.



I was also playing around with a vertical design, but was placing it the other way with the fan being on the opposite side (as it comes stock).

What's the benefit of having the side with the ethernet jack face upwards with the fan on the bottom vs. the stock layout of the fan being on the side with the ethernet jack? I found the temperatures were cooler running it vertically with Ethernet side down.
valkir
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June 05, 2015, 02:57:49 PM
 #54

If the airflow got up this is ok.
I guess vorta switch the side of the normal airflow of the fan  Wink

heat go up so just follow the natural flow!

██     Please support sidehack with his new miner project Send to :

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Rockett0
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June 05, 2015, 03:18:11 PM
 #55


Where do you get the screws for this?

Hardware store?
Crypto84
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June 05, 2015, 03:23:24 PM
 #56

put this model in on shapeways.com just got half of the bottom plate tis $47 lol
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June 05, 2015, 10:25:34 PM
 #57

are we a loud to use the stl files on public pay services to have them made if we don't try to sell it as ours which i won't do . stealing is bad and in the end no one gets any were .

For security, your account has been locked. Email acctcomp15@theymos.e4ward.com
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June 06, 2015, 01:52:22 AM
 #58

are we a loud to use the stl files on public pay services to have them made if we don't try to sell it as ours which i won't do . stealing is bad and in the end no one gets any were .
This is really expensive to print from shapeways.com not worth the cost.
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June 06, 2015, 01:57:36 AM
Last edit: June 06, 2015, 02:23:31 AM by toptek
 #59

are we a loud to use the stl files on public pay services to have them made if we don't try to sell it as ours which i won't do . stealing is bad and in the end no one gets any were .
This is really expensive to print from shapeways.com not worth the cost.


noticed some one told me to ask some one on the forums . id be better off after i did some more research, buying my own 3d printer in the long run, then let them do it shapeways.com or any the online services that offer it. So ill stick to member here or may be one day buy one at 400, that 400$ model  would suit my use, I remember, a few years back the 400 dollar one going for 5 k or more so i never bored or gave it a thought  Grin Cheesy

but now it is temping there not expensive anymore.

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June 06, 2015, 05:58:21 PM
 #60

Here are both of my miners with the main boards screwed onto the top plates. The screws screw in into the plastic perfectly. I prefer having my ethernet cable running out of the miner at the top. It's also easier to see status lights and ethernet activity. It is just as easy to have it all on the bottom.
http://www.pohrani.com/f/w/D1/2R4Niqjv/06.jpg


I was also playing around with a vertical design, but was placing it the other way with the fan being on the opposite side (as it comes stock).

What's the benefit of having the side with the ethernet jack face upwards with the fan on the bottom vs. the stock layout of the fan being on the side with the ethernet jack? I found the temperatures were cooler running it vertically with Ethernet side down.

With the stock miner, without the top and bottom plates closing it off, it is better to have the control board next to the push fan as it is preventing some volume of air from escaping the heatsink immediately, thus lowering the temperatures a little bit.

With the miner closed with plastic top and bottom plates it doesn't matter which side the control board is on. The only benefit is easily seeing if miner and internet are working properly, just by standing next to the miner. No need to crouch and look under.



Where do you get the screws for this?

Hardware store?

First I ordered some from eBay, from Chinese suppliers, but then I found a screw store not far from me and got the rest there.


put this model in on shapeways.com just got half of the bottom plate tis $47 lol

I would definitely not recommend printing the parts with industry-grade professional 3D printers. They will come out expensive and I have not tested their durability.

A RepRap PLA or ABS printer can do a perfect job with these. I will start printing one set of parts for the AntMiner to see how much time it will take me and put it on eBay later. Just got a delivery of 2kg black PLA filament.
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