Antminer S5 + 3D printed mods

[jstefanop]

put this model in on shapeways.com just got half of the bottom plate tis $47 lol

Im doing the whole set for 35 + shipping. Just pays for material costs and few dollars for my time. Send me a PM if you want to be added to the list. Printer is printing full time now but I have about a weeks worth of parts to print and ship currently (takes about 12 hours to make a whole set).

[1714644577]

1714644577

[aarons6]

i got my set today from jstefanop.
they look just like the OPs.. mine came black.
i was only able so far to put the top and bottom plates on as i coudlnt find the right size screws for the fans..

they fit perfectly.. the temp being reported by the miner didnt really change.. but i didnt expect it to. as i took out the blue wire for my fan so it runs at full speed and added a 2nd fan.. my s5 runs in the 48/50c range.
but, there was an unexpected change.. the s5 fans got quieter (you hear the air more then the whine now).. im thinking its because they have to try harder to push the air? or maybe its just the fact that not much air escapes the side and none now escapes the top?

i like it.. it should have been manufactured with them.

thanks again jstefanop

[Vorta]

i got my set today from jstefanop.
they look just like the OPs.. mine came black.
i was only able so far to put the top and bottom plates on as i coudlnt find the right size screws for the fans...

You can use original screws that came with the miner, just get them though your fan as described in the first post. If you can't get them through the fan, you need screws that are 40mm + fan depth/thickness. M4 thread.

[aarons6]

i got my set today from jstefanop.
they look just like the OPs.. mine came black.
i was only able so far to put the top and bottom plates on as i coudlnt find the right size screws for the fans...

You can use original screws that came with the miner, just get them though your fan as described in the first post. If you can't get them through the fan, you need screws that are 40mm + fan depth/thickness. M4 thread.

i dont think the fan screws are long enough?

i guess i can take it apart and check.. but i figured they were too short to go through the fan and the fan shroud.
.

[aarons6]

i got the front fan shroud on..
the temps went up a tad in the ui, but i think its because the fan shroud doesnt let as much air in sides..
one thing to note, the stock fan cord is not long enough to plug into the board with the fan shroud.. it was about 5mm too short.
i had my fan on a molex adapted so its ok.


the fan still appears to be quieter with this then with the top and bottom open.

[Vorta]

i got my set today from jstefanop.
they look just like the OPs.. mine came black.
i was only able so far to put the top and bottom plates on as i coudlnt find the right size screws for the fans...

You can use original screws that came with the miner, just get them though your fan as described in the first post. If you can't get them through the fan, you need screws that are 40mm + fan depth/thickness. M4 thread.

i dont think the fan screws are long enough?

i guess i can take it apart and check.. but i figured they were too short to go through the fan and the fan shroud.
.

If you got the screw through this way, it will be long enough:

http://www.pohrani.com/f/3c/cg/2t6rfdZa/04.jpg

This is not intended to be used with the stock fan, but it will work.
The temperature readout will be more accurate, thus a bit higher than before.

[scrawford84]

I sent a pm to get on the list if you guys are still printing these!!

[jstefanop]

I sent a pm to get on the list if you guys are still printing these!!

Sent ya a PM...

Im pretty much caught up with everyone if people still want these printed for cheap let me know!

[Crypto84]

anyone know where to get those heatsinks from? the ones in the first picture that it came with?

[aarons6]

anyone know where to get those heatsinks from? the ones in the first picture that it came with?

you can get ones like them from ebay or amazon..
although i dont think they are needed or even help much.

[MyRig]

Received a message from Denver Bitcoin Center Director Ben.  They have a few 3D Printers on site for the DBC Communities to use for the Dev purpose or for fun.  Another option for anyone who wants these great invention by the OP. (Price, please consult with the Denver Bitcoin Center)

https://denverbitcoincenter.com/
https://denverbitcoincenter.com/?page_id=19

Denver Bitcoin Center
747 Sheridan Blvd #5B
Lakewood, CO 80214
USA

Phone: 303-997-3110

e-mail: ben@denverbitcoincenter.com

*Also, if you are local to Denver Bitcoin Center, you can always drop off Bitmain Products for the warranty work or repair on the expired warranty units.

[Rockett0]

I haven't installed my set yet, but good to know that Denver Bitcoin is so close to home.

I'll have to stop by one of their "meetups" someday.

Rtt.

[BitMainBuyer]

Printed off the 2 ducts and have them mounted with 2x Ultra Kaze's. Here's a comparison:

Old setup
Kaze Pull + Stock push + no ducts = ~53°

New setup
Kaze Pull + Kaze push + 2 ducts = 63° / 59° (there's a few degrees difference between both boards strangely..)

Are the above temps expected with my new setup? I was expecting a bit cooler, especially in this air conditioned environment.

It's possibly worth noting I don't have top or bottom plates due to printing difficulties.

Edit: temps have risen to 65° / 61° now 

[amelen]

Printed off the 2 ducts and have them mounted with 2x Ultra Kaze's. Here's a comparison:

Old setup
Kaze Pull + Stock push + no ducts = ~53°

New setup
Kaze Pull + Kaze push + 2 ducts = 63° / 59° (there's a few degrees difference between both boards strangely..)

Are the above temps expected with my new setup? I was expecting a bit cooler, especially in this air conditioned environment.

It's possibly worth noting I don't have top or bottom plates due to printing difficulties.

Edit: temps have risen to 65° / 61° now 

Seems about right with Kaze. Try it with the stock fan and undervolt it a bit to reduce noise & power usage. I went back to using just the undervolted stock fan now and it uses less power, creates less noise, and cools better than 2xKaze. I go based off the temperature sensor though - the 2 fan layout would cool more evenly and might be cooling better than the sensor is reporting.

[pekatete]

It's possibly worth noting I don't have top or bottom plates due to printing difficulties.

There, ma friend, lies the root to the rise in temps ..... try using simple card-board over the top and bottom (while you sort out the 3D printing) and you will see a drop in temps.

[BitMainBuyer]

There, ma friend, lies the root to the rise in temps ..... try using simple card-board over the top and bottom (while you sort out the 3D printing) and you will see a drop in temps.

Should the cardboard on top sit just above the heatsink and not extend across to the sides? Or should I try to sit it on top of the PCB board, extending to the side panels?

Thanks

[pekatete]

There, ma friend, lies the root to the rise in temps ..... try using simple card-board over the top and bottom (while you sort out the 3D printing) and you will see a drop in temps.

Should the cardboard on top sit just above the heatsink and not extend across to the sides? Or should I try to sit it on top of the PCB board, extending to the side panels?

Thanks

Fit it just like the mod is, linearly aligned with the fan ducts aka on top of the heat-sinks.  The idea of the mod is to get most air through the heatsinks rather than escaping through the sides and top.
I am assuming here that it is a temporary fix as card-board can be a fire hazard IF the the dreaded S5 overheat bug hits you.

[BitMainBuyer]

Fit it just like the mod is, linearly aligned with the fan ducts aka on top of the heat-sinks.  The idea of the mod is to get most air through the heatsinks rather than escaping through the sides and top.
I am assuming here that it is a temporary fix as card-board can be a fire hazard IF the the dreaded S5 overheat bug hits you.

Ok - so I've fit it pretty well I have to say. On top, its going from the very front, under the cpu/mobo, then all the way to the end. The bottom is similarly covered to the mod, without the bulge obviously.

Temps are 64° / 60°, so unfortunately it doesn't seem to have helped.

I live in a very hot country and during the day there's no A/C so room temp will be pretty warm, not sure if I'm comfortable leaving it running if I'm getting these temps in an AC'd room  

Maybe I could manage it remotely and underclock if it gets too hot?

[pekatete]

Fit it just like the mod is, linearly aligned with the fan ducts aka on top of the heat-sinks.  The idea of the mod is to get most air through the heatsinks rather than escaping through the sides and top.
I am assuming here that it is a temporary fix as card-board can be a fire hazard IF the the dreaded S5 overheat bug hits you.

Ok - so I've fit it pretty well I have to say. On top, its going from the very front, under the cpu/mobo, then all the way to the end. The bottom is similarly covered to the mod, without the bulge obviously.

Temps are 64° / 60°, so unfortunately it doesn't seem to have helped.

I live in a very hot country and during the day there's no A/C so room temp will be pretty warm, not sure if I'm comfortable leaving it running if I'm getting these temps in an AC'd room  

Maybe I could manage it remotely and underclock if it gets too hot?

Bear in mind that the mod REDUCES the airflow over the sensors, so temp readings are not that accurate (even without the mod).
What only you can tell for your ambient is how well the machine is running .... e.g are you getting more HW errors with the mod, are you getting higher diffs / faster diff setting by the pool? If you are getting less errors (assuming you've OC'ed), then that is a good sign the mod is doing well.

[Vorta]

Printed off the 2 ducts and have them mounted with 2x Ultra Kaze's. Here's a comparison:

Old setup
Kaze Pull + Stock push + no ducts = ~53°

New setup
Kaze Pull + Kaze push + 2 ducts = 63° / 59° (there's a few degrees difference between both boards strangely..)

Are the above temps expected with my new setup? I was expecting a bit cooler, especially in this air conditioned environment.

It's possibly worth noting I don't have top or bottom plates due to printing difficulties.

Edit: temps have risen to 65° / 61° now  

The temperature readouts are expected to be higher (more accurate) when there is no airflow hitting the temp sensors. It may seem that your miner is hotter, but it isn't, you just get the actual temps. Should you put your own temp sensor on the heatsink, you would see the difference.

Since miners are optimized to have a temperature reading that is 20°C off (from my experience with stock fan, your miner is actually around 100°C when readout reaches 80°C), the bottom duct has small openings to move some air around the temp sensors and lower the temps on them a bit. I have one miner running at 400MHz without a problem in a room that is reaching 45°C during the day. The other one, however, has an older heatsink and I can't push it as hard. It's happily working at 381.25MHz.

Both of my miners regularly have a 5°C difference between boards. I'm unsure if it's the cheap temp sensors or the difference actually exists, I haven't tested.

The best way to see how well is the miner running is to compare HW errors. Up the frequency and let it run for several hours. As long as you're under 0.01% HW errors, you're good.
Here's how's my 400MHz running:
http://www.pohrani.com/f/3h/Do/3LYATpZi/400mhz.png