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wolfen
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October 28, 2015, 02:55:42 AM |
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I'm beginning to wonder if you have a 300 amp breaker thrown in a main panel rated for 200 amps. Also, when you say, "All on 120V," are you using 2 pole or single pole breakers for your rigs?
Isn't a 200 amp main at 240 volts? So it would be 400 amps at 120v? Use both legs on each breaker 200 amps max One leg on each breaker 400 amps max Same power/wattage either way I can agree with the 200 amps on each pole for a total of 400 amps combined. However, the main breaker is designed to trip IF EITHER POLE exceeds 200 Amps; not both. That's what I've been trying to convey Wolfen, however technically its not combining the Amps. Each leg has a capacity of 200A. The Main will switch off if either LEG exceeds 200Amps is true - however if you load 160A on each leg you are not Exceeding the 200A per leg. I'm using single pole breakers for the rigs - mostly consisting of 20A and 15A circuits - a couple of 30A circuits run to out buildings. 2 Pole breakers would be 240V no? My service is rated 200 Amps according to electric provider. The main appears to only be 180A on the panel, which seems right because if I load over 170A on one leg the panel gets very warm and will switch off after 30 minutes or so. Load balancing the 2 legs/poles and I have zero issues running the 230+ Amps of rigs and other electronics. It took a lot of trial and error as well as hand-charts to balance the load, but before I had s7's I had 25 s5's and 4 S4's along with the scrypt miners running all summer without issue. Yes the main panel got warm in the summer and I put a fan on it to help cool it down, but circuits held and nothing burned up. Will you take the time to show me what you did to balance? Maybe I'm about to learn something. Don't forget, you have 2 pole breakers for A/C, Dryer and stove top/oven. Also circuits for fridge, lighting, etc... Unless you did not use 2 pole for those appliances and used 2 single pole instead. You can draw it on a piece of paper; take a photo of the paper and post the image here. Maybe we all will learn something. [/quote] I did a 125amp 240v subpanel so I just needed one big two pole breaker in the main. Subpanel has six two pole 30 amp 240v circuits. Was pulling max 24 amps on each circuit (eight s5's) |
For those about to block we salute you! AC->BTC
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coinbeast
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October 28, 2015, 02:57:25 AM |
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Ouch... that looks nasty. I hope you get your warranty sorted out. Make sure to document everything, which you seem to be doing already. And despite what Bitmain tries to tell you I would inspect all remaining heatsinks before powering them up... something seriously wrong there. Ran out of glue or used wrong glue or something. Thanks. I have asked for permission from Bitmain to allow me to remove and inspect all hashing boards before proceeding any further. Thanks for sharing that is very very scary to see. Only thing funny is photobucket offering prints of photos.... i doubt that is a memory you care to mount on the wall. Most likely I bet Bitmain say's no and asks to ship it back looking at the damage. If they do surprise me and let you open it up please share. Honestly mate, that is all I have been wanting. The damage is 100% due to faulty equipment. I purposely bought all Bitmain PSU's. I just want to sent them back so they can check it out. It just seems way too coincidental that my shipping was delayed for 3 weeks and then this happens. Is it just me having this problem or was batch 1 a disaster? |
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wolfen
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October 28, 2015, 02:58:15 AM |
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Ouch... that looks nasty. I hope you get your warranty sorted out. Make sure to document everything, which you seem to be doing already. And despite what Bitmain tries to tell you I would inspect all remaining heatsinks before powering them up... something seriously wrong there. Ran out of glue or used wrong glue or something. Thanks. I have asked for permission from Bitmain to allow me to remove and inspect all hashing boards before proceeding any further. So you just pop the back fan off and slide the boards out of the back? |
For those about to block we salute you! AC->BTC
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coinbeast
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October 28, 2015, 03:05:39 AM |
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Ouch... that looks nasty. I hope you get your warranty sorted out. Make sure to document everything, which you seem to be doing already. And despite what Bitmain tries to tell you I would inspect all remaining heatsinks before powering them up... something seriously wrong there. Ran out of glue or used wrong glue or something. Upon closer inspection I can see at least 3 loose heat sinks in the melted one. Thanks. I have asked for permission from Bitmain to allow me to remove and inspect all hashing boards before proceeding any further. So you just pop the back fan off and slide the boards out of the back? There is a sticker over a screw which is intended to be tamper evident. It looks like it could be removed without showing but I invested over 50 BTC into these and I don't want to do anything to compromise that. |
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klondike_bar
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October 28, 2015, 03:14:05 AM |
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Ouch... that looks nasty. I hope you get your warranty sorted out. Make sure to document everything, which you seem to be doing already. And despite what Bitmain tries to tell you I would inspect all remaining heatsinks before powering them up... something seriously wrong there. Ran out of glue or used wrong glue or something. Thanks. I have asked for permission from Bitmain to allow me to remove and inspect all hashing boards before proceeding any further. Thanks for sharing that is very very scary to see. Only thing funny is photobucket offering prints of photos.... i doubt that is a memory you care to mount on the wall. Most likely I bet Bitmain say's no and asks to ship it back looking at the damage. If they do surprise me and let you open it up please share. Honestly mate, that is all I have been wanting. The damage is 100% due to faulty equipment. I purposely bought all Bitmain PSU's. I just want to sent them back so they can check it out. It just seems way too coincidental that my shipping was delayed for 3 weeks and then this happens. Is it just me having this problem or was batch 1 a disaster? you are using the BITMAIN 1600W psu? looks like the connectorsd are all 18awg, is it possible a loose connection or poor contact with the socket caused the issue? it seems to be right at the connector |
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thedreamer
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Go Big or Go Home.....
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October 28, 2015, 03:15:12 AM |
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That looks nasty, looks more like a catastrophic meltdown or short...
The fan looks like it was melted due to a fire....
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Go Big or Go Home.
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dmwardjr
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October 28, 2015, 03:15:56 AM |
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OK, believe what you will. I do know several "licensed" electricians and had one confirm with me today, after these exchanges, that it is Per Phase on the Main - not total.
So each phase can be loaded with 80% load and the main will not trip as they are out of phase and not an addition of current.
Here is a list of miners and wattage that I am currently using - all at 120V. They alone are exceeding 200A in power usage -
13 x s7's = 15730 WATTS
8 x s5's = 4720 WATTS
1 x S4 = 1400 WATTS
3 x A2 @ 88 = 2250 WATTS
4 x A2 @ 110 = 4000 WATTS
TOTAL WATTS = 28100 @ 120v = 234A
The only 240V circuits being used are 1) Stove - 2) Water Heater.
Even with the miner loads, I'm still able to use all sorts of other electricity - IE this computer - a couple 1000 Watt gaming machines, a 200 Watt Laser Cutter, air compressors, electric drills, radios, garbage disposal, hair dryers (when gf needs), and charge my Chevy Volt.
You are saying this is impossible, unless defective - seems to be working.
Don't forget. You know we have 200 amps on each pole but how many volts is on each pole? The answer: 120 Volts If you have 200 amps at 120 volts on each side, that is 200 x 120 = 24,000 watts on each side. However, we also have at least 3 major appliances taking up a large portion of the amps available and those 3 major appliances use both poles. The appliances I'm referring to is the A/C, Dryer and stove top/oven. Don't forget Dish Washer, refrigerator, etc... If you have a toaster, it can use 800 watts easily while it is toasting. That is something to consider if you are already close to maxing out your main panel. |
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UfoRia
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October 28, 2015, 03:17:36 AM |
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Damn man, ouch. Glad it didn't catch anything on fire. What firmware were you using, the stock or the new one? Ufo |
If I have been a help, my BTC donation address -> 1GUEqAzbMvwkY7hbb6bauhY6AkVoCSXDkp
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coinbeast
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October 28, 2015, 03:18:57 AM |
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Ouch... that looks nasty. I hope you get your warranty sorted out. Make sure to document everything, which you seem to be doing already. And despite what Bitmain tries to tell you I would inspect all remaining heatsinks before powering them up... something seriously wrong there. Ran out of glue or used wrong glue or something. Thanks. I have asked for permission from Bitmain to allow me to remove and inspect all hashing boards before proceeding any further. Thanks for sharing that is very very scary to see. Only thing funny is photobucket offering prints of photos.... i doubt that is a memory you care to mount on the wall. Most likely I bet Bitmain say's no and asks to ship it back looking at the damage. If they do surprise me and let you open it up please share. Honestly mate, that is all I have been wanting. The damage is 100% due to faulty equipment. I purposely bought all Bitmain PSU's. I just want to sent them back so they can check it out. It just seems way too coincidental that my shipping was delayed for 3 weeks and then this happens. Is it just me having this problem or was batch 1 a disaster? you are using the BITMAIN 1600W psu? looks like the connectorsd are all 18awg, is it possible a loose connection or poor contact with the socket caused the issue? it seems to be right at the connector I am using bitmain psu. 2 heat sinks fell off under the power connectors which caused the melting. It is evident by the fact that no melting has occurred at the wires leading into the 6 pin connectors. |
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bbOOmm
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October 28, 2015, 03:29:22 AM |
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Since we are talking power, any way to take two 20A 120v dedicated outlets and make them 240V externally? I don't have access to the panel and only the outlets, but each is dedicated on its own 20A breaker. Just asking, probably not, but worth a shot.
Technically you can.... by electrical code and by practice, its dangerous. You would need two separate 120V circuits but both of those circuits cannot be from the same side of the breaker box. When the power comes in from the pole or underground, after passing through the meter, it enters your breaker box. There will be 3 wires, possibly 4 wires. There will be 2 "hot" wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire. The neutral wire is attached to the same bar as the ground.... litterally neutral is at ground potential and will be attached to the breaker box metal case via a ground bar with some screws. The two HOT wires are electrically phased 180 degrees from each other therefore when you take your voltmeter and measure across the HOTS, you get the 240VAC, if you measure from ether or HOT to neutral (ground) , you will see 120VAC When the incoming wires are connected to the breaker box, one HOT is connected to 1/2 the MAINS breaker and the other HOT to the other 1/2 of the MAINS breaker. In the box itself, the buss then takes one HOT and feeds 1/2 the breakers, and the other HOT feeds the remaining half of the breakers Your haphazard idea of using two 120VAC outlets to get 240VAC is possible if you can one 120VAC circuit from each 1/2 of the 240VAC HOTS NOTE: If you find the two circuits, you would be limited to the amperage capacity of those breakers and the installed wiring which will either be 15 amp or 20 amp, then you will be further restricted by the extension cords both in wire size and length ( 14AWG can carry up to 15 amp and 12 AWG can carry up to 20 amp -- FOR A SHORT DISTANCE The longer the length cord, the more resistance;;; the more resistance, the more heat generated IN THE CORD;;; The longer the length, the greater the resistance equals less than 120VAC reaching the device. ALSO extension cords are not meant for CONTINUOUS MAXIMUM CAPACITY USE) My suggestion is to either use your electric oven's outlet... if you have an electric oven or you don't do a lot of cooking... or if you have a gas oven, look in back anyways, you might have a 50A 240VAC outlet back there. The next location to look would be in the laundry room. An electric drier will use a 30A 240VAC outlet.... if you have a gas drier, that 30A 240VAC outlet would not be used-- plug into that outlet..... only a 120V outlet and a gas line is used for a gas drier. Those two circuits would be much more safer to use than extension cords and two 120VAC circuits. Just my two sense.... but seldom anyone listens... |
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darrenyu
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October 28, 2015, 04:04:38 AM |
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Hi When will all my order ship ? Why the ship not follow by order date ? http://imgur.com/kCCbZhB |
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dmwardjr
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October 28, 2015, 04:08:48 AM
Last edit: October 28, 2015, 04:22:41 AM by dmwardjr |
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Since we are talking power, any way to take two 20A 120v dedicated outlets and make them 240V externally? I don't have access to the panel and only the outlets, but each is dedicated on its own 20A breaker. Just asking, probably not, but worth a shot.
Technically you can.... by electrical code and by practice, its dangerous. You would need two separate 120V circuits but both of those circuits cannot be from the same side of the breaker box. When the power comes in from the pole or underground, after passing through the meter, it enters your breaker box. There will be 3 wires, possibly 4 wires. There will be 2 "hot" wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire. The neutral wire is attached to the same bar as the ground.... litterally neutral is at ground potential and will be attached to the breaker box metal case via a ground bar with some screws. The two HOT wires are electrically phased 180 degrees from each other therefore when you take your voltmeter and measure across the HOTS, you get the 240VAC, if you measure from ether or HOT to neutral (ground) , you will see 120VAC When the incoming wires are connected to the breaker box, one HOT is connected to 1/2 the MAINS breaker and the other HOT to the other 1/2 of the MAINS breaker. In the box itself, the buss then takes one HOT and feeds 1/2 the breakers, and the other HOT feeds the remaining half of the breakers Your haphazard idea of using two 120VAC outlets to get 240VAC is possible if you can one 120VAC circuit from each 1/2 of the 240VAC HOTS NOTE: If you find the two circuits, you would be limited to the amperage capacity of those breakers and the installed wiring which will either be 15 amp or 20 amp, then you will be further restricted by the extension cords both in wire size and length ( 14AWG can carry up to 15 amp and 12 AWG can carry up to 20 amp -- FOR A SHORT DISTANCE The longer the length cord, the more resistance;;; the more resistance, the more heat generated IN THE CORD;;; The longer the length, the greater the resistance equals less than 120VAC reaching the device. ALSO extension cords are not meant for CONTINUOUS MAXIMUM CAPACITY USE) My suggestion is to either use your electric oven's outlet... if you have an electric oven or you don't do a lot of cooking... or if you have a gas oven, look in back anyways, you might have a 50A 240VAC outlet back there. The next location to look would be in the laundry room. An electric drier will use a 30A 240VAC outlet.... if you have a gas drier, that 30A 240VAC outlet would not be used-- plug into that outlet..... only a 120V outlet and a gas line is used for a gas drier. Those two circuits would be much more safer to use than extension cords and two 120VAC circuits. Just my two sense.... but seldom anyone listens... Here's something for a novice with electricity but it's 230V at 20 amps = 4,600 watts. It lets them easily determine if the 2 outlets they chose were on the same circuit or not by pressing a button on the device for $275.00. I believe this is designed to convert it to make it look like 2 phases. Which means both 20 amp 120 volt circuits can be on the same pole but not the same breaker (circuit). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hmtxWyOzIkhttp://www.steam-brite.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=electric+car+charger |
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cryptichermit
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October 28, 2015, 05:27:42 AM |
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OK, believe what you will. I do know several "licensed" electricians and had one confirm with me today, after these exchanges, that it is Per Phase on the Main - not total.
So each phase can be loaded with 80% load and the main will not trip as they are out of phase and not an addition of current.
Here is a list of miners and wattage that I am currently using - all at 120V. They alone are exceeding 200A in power usage -
13 x s7's = 15730 WATTS
8 x s5's = 4720 WATTS
1 x S4 = 1400 WATTS
3 x A2 @ 88 = 2250 WATTS
4 x A2 @ 110 = 4000 WATTS
TOTAL WATTS = 28100 @ 120v = 234A
The only 240V circuits being used are 1) Stove - 2) Water Heater.
Even with the miner loads, I'm still able to use all sorts of other electricity - IE this computer - a couple 1000 Watt gaming machines, a 200 Watt Laser Cutter, air compressors, electric drills, radios, garbage disposal, hair dryers (when gf needs), and charge my Chevy Volt.
You are saying this is impossible, unless defective - seems to be working.
Don't forget. You know we have 200 amps on each pole but how many volts is on each pole? The answer: 120 Volts Yes, exactly. So where do you think the 240V comes from? Combining the 120V across the 2 poles. Essentially when you use a 240V breaker and have a 5A load on it, you are pulling 5A across both pole/legs at 120V. So in order to achieve 200 amps at 240V you'd be pulling 200amps across both legs of 120V. This alone, seems to tell me that yes you can use 200A of 120V on each leg. Yes Stove/Oven, Water Heater, and Dryer (which I don't use) all utilize both legs with 2 pole breaker. Who needs a dryer with this many miners? Just put up some clothes racks in the living room when its time to dry. |
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dmwardjr
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Technical Analyst/Trader
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October 28, 2015, 05:49:22 AM
Last edit: October 28, 2015, 10:16:20 AM by dmwardjr |
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OK, believe what you will. I do know several "licensed" electricians and had one confirm with me today, after these exchanges, that it is Per Phase on the Main - not total.
So each phase can be loaded with 80% load and the main will not trip as they are out of phase and not an addition of current.
Here is a list of miners and wattage that I am currently using - all at 120V. They alone are exceeding 200A in power usage -
13 x s7's = 15730 WATTS
8 x s5's = 4720 WATTS
1 x S4 = 1400 WATTS
3 x A2 @ 88 = 2250 WATTS
4 x A2 @ 110 = 4000 WATTS
TOTAL WATTS = 28100 @ 120v = 234A
The only 240V circuits being used are 1) Stove - 2) Water Heater.
Even with the miner loads, I'm still able to use all sorts of other electricity - IE this computer - a couple 1000 Watt gaming machines, a 200 Watt Laser Cutter, air compressors, electric drills, radios, garbage disposal, hair dryers (when gf needs), and charge my Chevy Volt.
You are saying this is impossible, unless defective - seems to be working.
Don't forget. You know we have 200 amps on each pole but how many volts is on each pole? The answer: 120 Volts Yes, exactly. So where do you think the 240V comes from? Combining the 120V across the 2 poles. Essentially when you use a 240V breaker and have a 5A load on it, you are pulling 5A across both pole/legs at 120V. So in order to achieve 200 amps at 240V you'd be pulling 200amps across both legs of 120V. This alone, seems to tell me that yes you can use 200A of 120V on each leg. Yes Stove/Oven, Water Heater, and Dryer (which I don't use) all utilize both legs with 2 pole breaker. Who needs a dryer with this many miners? Just put up some clothes racks in the living room when its time to dry. Then do the math... 200 amps x 120 volts for one leg (pole) = 24,000 watts. 200 amps x 120 volts for the other leg (pole) = 24,000 watts. That is a total of 48,000 watts. You are using 32,000 watts worth of rigs, "supposedly" at 120 Volts. That leaves 18,000 watts remaining. 30 amp x 240 for your dryer = 7,200 watts [Actually uses about 22 amps x 240 Volts while running on normal dry = 5,280 watts] 50 amp x 240 for your A/C = 12,000 watts [Your A/C would actually use about 42 amps for start up power then throttle down to about 22 amps x 240 volts = 5,280 watts] 30 amp x 240 for your stove top/oven [Will probably use about 15 amps on average when it is on = 3,600 watts] Those 3 combined [While running] = 14,160 watts plus the 32,000 watts of rigs you are "supposedly" running = 46,160 watts. This leaves 1,840 watts remaining and we haven't even gotten to the fridge, televisions, lights, stereo, gaming equipment you discussed, the compressor you discussed. You said all of this worked fine without tripping the Main Breaker. Yet, I find that hard to believe. How about providing photos of your set up and photos of the Main Service Panel? Photos of all the outlets the rigs are connected to? IF you don't know how to post photos, I'll explain it to you. I've racked my brain trying to figure out how you would "balance" 32,000 watts at 120 Volts for a total of 266 amps with 134 amps remaining and still power everything else I mentioned. Not only that, you said the MAIN breaker appears to be 180 amps in an earlier post instead of 200 amps. That's even worse... Did you not see the drawing I posted earlier depicting two 120 volt poles with Phase - A and Phase - B? I see now you say you don't ever cook, you don't use the dryer and you always take cold showers. [I'm commenting on your post while I read it.] I imagine you turn the A/C on during the summer. Then we have the fridge, the compressor you mentioned, the 1,000 watt gaming you do, the lights, the television(s), your exhaust fan for heat; any other box fans you may use for cooling, your dish washer, etc... The only way possible you "might" be able to do it is by NEVER cooking and NEVER drying clothes while the AC is running. You gave the impression that you can do all of these things I mentioned earlier just fine and you are just now saying you don't cook, and you don't dry clothes. When you say you worked hours on paper to figure out how to "balance" so EVERYTHING would work fine, you seemed to have left out never cooking and never drying clothes. It's nothing to be embarrassed about for sure. During the summer, I would turn off a couple of rigs while the A/C was running so I could run the dryer or cook. I imagine you would be grateful for the winter so the A/C can be shut off to allow you to take hot showers and dry clothes or cook if you want to. I would cut off 4 rigs if I wanted to cook and use the dish washer. I would have to cut off 7 rigs if I wanted to cook on 3 eyes of the stove, wash dishes and run the dryer on low. Then I would turn all the rigs I had shut off back on when I was finished drying clothes, cooking and washing dishes. When this discussion first started, you said, " Everything worked fine without tripping the main breaker." That was a bit misleading after finding out [During the summer with the A/C running] you never cooked nor dried clothes in the dryer and appear to always take cold showers as well because you cut off an electric water heater as well during the summer when the A/C is running. How about some photos? You can post the photos here [At "Miner Photo Porn"] to avoid cluttering up this particular thread: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=766998.940By the way, I'm normally accustomed to saying 120 Volts and 240 Volts instead of 110 Volts and 220 Volts like others may say. One reason why it can be different depends on the internal resistance of the meter one is using when measuring voltage. The meter I prefer to use when measuring AC voltage in the Main Panel, receptacles or house wiring has an internal resistance of 10 million ohms. The internal resistance of any meter [When measuring voltage] is HIGH [Some higher than others]. Why should the internal resistance of a volt meter be high? We do NOT want current to flow. Why? So we can see the Source Voltage (potential output of our power supply). If the internal resistance of a volt meter was low, a substantial amount of current would flow through the meter and it would be impossible to see Source Voltage (120V or 240V) . If current was flowing through the meter, we would see what is called, "Voltage Drop" instead of Source Voltage. That's why the internal resistance of a volt meter MUST be high. Why? To keep a substantial amount of current from flowing through the meter. Why? So our meter leads will extend to the Source. Why? So, we can see the potential output of our power supply, known as "Source Voltage" (120V or 240V). If we see SOME voltage [Meaning it's not zero volts, but 40 Volts for example] However, that 40 volts is not source voltage (120 Volt or 240 Volt), the 40 volts we are seeing is more than likely voltage drop. Which means current is flowing. More than likely a hot wire (conductor) has access to ground [When working on AC Volts] OR the negative and positive side of the battery has contact somehow [When working on DC Volts]. [It is possible to have a partial open in the cable or wire extremely high in resistance that can affect your voltage reading so much to make you think you are seeing voltage drop to indicate current is flowing. However, an open of any type does not create leakage. Meaning, an open does not get current to flow.] I will say it is highly unlikely a partial open has that high of resistance to knock your voltage down to a point that fools you into believing you are seeing voltage drop. It would normally be clean open by the time a technician arrives. Which would result in no voltage seen at all; depending on the conductor that is open and the points measured with the meter leads. If current is ever flowing through resistance in a conductor, that conductor will drop (consume; eat) voltage. So, if we see SOME voltage but not SOURCE voltage, it more than likely is voltage drop, which means current is flowing. If we have concluded current is flowing because of seeing voltage drop, the type of troubles that can create this would be a short, ground or cross of some kind [Depending of whether it is AC or DC of course].Some meters have an internal resistance of 1,000,000 Ohms [When measuring voltage] and would give us a 110 Volts or 220 Volts AC reading. While other digital meters may have an internal resistance of 10,000,000 Ohms [When measuring voltage] and give a reading of 120 volts or 240 Volts AC. I have digital and analog meters with both 1Meg. Ohms and 10 Meg. Ohms internal resistance when measuring AC or DC voltage. Cheers, |
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RichBC
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October 28, 2015, 07:28:30 AM |
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By the way, I'm normally accustomed to saying 120 Volts and 240 Volts instead of 110 Volts and 220 Volts like others may say. One reason why it can be different depends on the internal resistance of the meter one is using when measuring voltage.
The internal resistance of any meter [When measuring voltage] is HIGH. Why? We do NOT want current to flow IF we wish to see the Source Voltage (potential output of our power supply). If the internal resistance of a volt meter was low, current would be flowing through the meter and it would be impossible to see Source Voltage (120V or 240V) . We would begin to see what is called, "Voltage Drop."
That's why the internal resistance of a volt meter MUST be high. Why? To keep current from flowing. Why? So, we can always be able to see the potential output of our power supply, known as "Source Voltage" (120V or 240V). If we see SOME voltage (It's not zero; like 40 Volts for example) BUT, it's not source voltage (120 Volt or 240 Volt), it more than likely is voltage drop. Which means current is flowing.
Some meters have an internal resistance of 1,000,000 Ohms when measuring voltage and would give us a 110 Volts or 220 Volts AC reading. While other digital meters may have an internal resistance of 10,000,000 Ohms [When measuring voltage] and give a reading of 120 volts or 240 Volts AC. I have digital and analog meters with both 1Meg. Ohms and 10 Meg. Ohms internal resistance when measuring voltage.
Cheers,
I agree that having a 1,000,000 Ohms or a 10,000,000 Ohms internal resistance meter can have an significant effect on measurement, particularly on lower voltages with higher impedance circuits. However in the context of measuring the Mains voltage with an impedance measured in ohms whether you are using a 1Meg meter taking 0.1mA or a 10Meg meter taking 0.01mA is going to make no difference to the reading. Rich |
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dmwardjr
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October 28, 2015, 07:31:51 AM
Last edit: October 28, 2015, 10:29:11 AM by dmwardjr |
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By the way, I'm normally accustomed to saying 120 Volts and 240 Volts instead of 110 Volts and 220 Volts like others may say. One reason why it can be different depends on the internal resistance of the meter one is using when measuring voltage.
The internal resistance of any meter [When measuring voltage] is HIGH. Why? We do NOT want current to flow IF we wish to see the Source Voltage (potential output of our power supply). If the internal resistance of a volt meter was low, current would be flowing through the meter and it would be impossible to see Source Voltage (120V or 240V) . We would begin to see what is called, "Voltage Drop."
That's why the internal resistance of a volt meter MUST be high. Why? To keep current from flowing. Why? So, we can always be able to see the potential output of our power supply, known as "Source Voltage" (120V or 240V). If we see SOME voltage (It's not zero; like 40 Volts for example) BUT, it's not source voltage (120 Volt or 240 Volt), it more than likely is voltage drop. Which means current is flowing.
Some meters have an internal resistance of 1,000,000 Ohms when measuring voltage and would give us a 110 Volts or 220 Volts AC reading. While other digital meters may have an internal resistance of 10,000,000 Ohms [When measuring voltage] and give a reading of 120 volts or 240 Volts AC. I have digital and analog meters with both 1Meg. Ohms and 10 Meg. Ohms internal resistance when measuring voltage.
Cheers,
I agree that having a 1,000,000 Ohms or a 10,000,000 Ohms internal resistance meter can have an significant effect on measurement, particularly on lower voltages with higher impedance circuits. However in the context of measuring the Mains voltage with an impedance measured in ohms whether you are using a 1Meg meter taking 0.1mA or a 10Meg meter taking 0.01mA is going to make no difference to the reading. Rich Totally agree, Rich. I did make some edits to what I said while you were quoting me to try to simplify things for those who may be interested in meters. Which you can look back to see: But yes, you are certainly correct about the internal resistance of a volt meter can have a significant effect on measurements with circuits that have lower source voltage and higher impedance. David EDIT: And you are correct about 0.1mA through 1Mega Ohms resistance and 0.01mA through 10Mega Ohms resistance. So, yes, there is some current flowing through the meter when measuring voltage. However, the amount is so small, it's peanuts. I prefer to avoid confusion in the beginning when teaching someone new to meters and just tell them, "no current is flowing through the meter that's worth talking about." I think it's important to keep it as simple as possible in the beginning with a newbie learning how a multi-meter works on the inside when making different electrical measurements for the first time. I keep it simple in the beginning when covering a multi-meter regarding most all measurements; such as volts, ohms in resistance, ohms in impedance, capacitance, inductance, measuring decibels, frequencies, etc... I like for them to envision in their mind [When measuring voltage] the internal resistance of the meter is sooooooo high, they are simply using whatever they connect their meter leads onto, to extend their meter leads to the source; so they can see source voltage. But if current is flowing anywhere in the circuit, their meter leads cannot extend through current to the source. Which means their meter leads will stop right at the point current is flowing and indicate voltage drop instead of source voltage. The voltage drop they are seeing is located at the point where current is leaking (flowing); and the amount of voltage drop they are seeing depends upon the amount of resistance the current is leaking through. |
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B00gieman
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October 28, 2015, 07:40:10 AM |
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Hello to you all. Received my ANT7 Batch 1 yesterday. Also received the PSU from Bitmain. Yesterday i pluged everything, configured and "voilá"... it was mining... Everything OK by 2 hours... after that the unit started to beep.. i needed to poert it off. Connected again... and once again it was mining. After 2 hours the some problem... the mining decrese to almost 0, the unit started gain to beeb. Power off and power down again The unit beeps again and again... works for 3 to 4 minuts until it stops mining From 21PM yesterday the unit is producing ZERO... its beeping almost shure (i'm in home, and the unit in in my office). The ANT7 is connected to a swhitch and then the switch is connected to a router. Im a newbie, and i thought this was power on and let go... i see its more complicated for a 2500€ machine.  Is there any troubleshotting guide? Help is needed. |
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dmwardjr
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October 28, 2015, 07:45:42 AM
Last edit: October 28, 2015, 09:11:55 AM by dmwardjr |
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Hello to you all. Received my ANT7 Batch 1 yesterday. Also received the PSU from Bitmain. Yesterday i pluged everything, configured and "voilá"... it was mining... Everything OK by 2 hours... after that the unit started to beep.. i needed to poert it off. Connected again... and once again it was mining. After 2 hours the some problem... the mining decrese to almost 0, the unit started gain to beeb. Power off and power down again The unit beeps again and again... works for 3 to 4 minuts until it stops mining From 21PM yesterday the unit is producing ZERO... its beeping almost shure (i'm in home, and the unit in in my office). The ANT7 is connected to a swhitch and then the switch is connected to a router. Im a newbie, and i thought this was power on and let go... i see its more complicated for a 2500€ machine. Is there any troubleshotting guide? Help is needed. Dogie, would be a good one to talk to at the following thread specifically for the S7: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1194785.0There are many others in THIS thread who are quite capable of helping as well. The chances of many of us being awake at this hour is not very good. It may be that I can help... You can start by posting a screenshot of the "miner status" in this thread and the other thread I gave you a link to so you can see who answers the quickest. We also need the manufacturer of your Power Supply Unit (PSU), model, watts, etc... If you don't know how to post a screenshot on here, follow directions below: Go to imgur.comClick "upload images" at the top of the page. Drag your image(s) to the page for upload. Once you have dragged all the images you want uploaded to the window, Click "Start Upload." The image I have posted below will provide instructions in text bubbles for which "link" to copy and paste in the forum. So, look at the image below for further instructions: {If you drag multiple images into the window for upload, it will only provide a link to the image and no option to post the images themselves in the forum. Either way is fine though}  |
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Kogan22
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October 28, 2015, 08:28:00 AM |
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Do we have a fixed working answer for the internet down @ fan problem yet?
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dmwardjr
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October 28, 2015, 08:28:47 AM |
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Do we have a fixed working answer for the internet down @ fan problem yet?
Just a moment and I will add a link... |
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