Ghetto Style AC unit. Custom Cooling Inc.

[Sitarow]

This is one of the simple tutorial 7 watt pump power + Fan power 60-150 watt.

Custom made AC unit to cool your systems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0J8OvDSmM&feature=related

[CoinHoarder]

This is one of the simple tutorial 7 watt pump power + Fan power 60-150 watt.

Custom made AC unit to cool your systems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0J8OvDSmM&feature=related

Wouldn't the copper tubing sweat? I'd be scared to get that too close to my rigs.

The chance of the tubing sweating and the fan blowing water and shorting something seems likely.

Or am I wrong?

I ask because this setup would be really perfect for me if it wouldn't sweat. I have a 1/2 HP water chiller sitting around not being used, so I could set up maybe 3 or 4 of these and use the chiller to cool the water. 

[Sitarow]

This is one of the simple tutorial 7 watt pump power + Fan power 60-150 watt.

Custom made AC unit to cool your systems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0J8OvDSmM&feature=related

Wouldn't the copper tubing sweat? I'd be scared to get that too close to my rigs.

The chance of the tubing sweating and the fan blowing water and shorting something seems likely.

Or am I wrong?

I ask because this setup would be really perfect for me if it wouldn't sweat. I have a 1/2 HP water chiller sitting around not being used, so I could set up maybe 3 or 4 of these and use the chiller to cool the water.  

I suppose it would depend on the humidity in the air and the amount of air flow passing over the pipes.



(source)

Edit: I would try to use this setup to control the air entering the room. However take into consideration the distance you place the unit from your equipment. For added cooling you could double up the cooling pipes as well.

Edit: Remember that ventilation exiting the room is important factor to consider as well.

[CoinHoarder]

That's not what I wanted to hear!

I live in Texas about 2 1/2 hours from the gulf of mexico. It can get pretty humid here... it usually stay between 42 and 94 percent relative humidity.    

EDIT:

Edit: I would try to use this setup to control the air entering the room. However take into consideration the distance you place the unit from your equipment. For added cooling you could double up the cooling pipes as well.

Edit: Remember that ventilation exiting the room is important factor to consider as well.

Good idea, there might be some way I can make it work.

I need to cool about 5500 watts. I was already planning a 4" exhaust fan, add this into the mix and I think that would keep things pretty cool allowing me to over clock a little bit.

[CoinHoarder]

I was planning on using something like this: http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/growing-lights/lighting-accessories/6-ice-box-heat-exchanger/

Your solution would probably be cheaper if I could make it work. But, sometimes I need to leave the house for 5 days a week for work, so I can't stand the risk of coming home to a huge puddle on the floor!

[Sitarow]

That's not what I wanted to hear!

I live in Texas about 2 1/2 hours from the gulf of mexico. It can get pretty humid here... it usually stay between 42 and 94 percent relative humidity.    

EDIT:

Edit: I would try to use this setup to control the air entering the room. However take into consideration the distance you place the unit from your equipment. For added cooling you could double up the cooling pipes as well.

Edit: Remember that ventilation exiting the room is important factor to consider as well.

Good idea, there might be some way I can make it work.

I need to cool about 5500 watts. I was already planning a 4" exhaust fan, add this into the mix and I think that would keep things pretty cool allowing me to over clock a little bit.

Edit: At 5500 Watts I assume you are running that all GPU? So your at about 12GH/s to 14GH/s

Best thing is to try in a test environment first. The airflow over the coils plays a critical role in controlling the Dew Point vs Relative Humidity.

In your environment Relative Humidity is indeed a greater influence on condensation.

Relative Humidity Calculation Formula

Layman's Explanation for Relative Humidity vs Dewpoint Youtube Link

[Sitarow]

I was planning on using something like this: http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/growing-lights/lighting-accessories/6-ice-box-heat-exchanger/

Your solution would probably be cheaper if I could make it work. But, sometimes I need to leave the house for 5 days a week for work, so I can't stand the risk of coming home to a huge puddle on the floor!

Would that not pose a greater risk if you were to put the equipment directly below the unit? (Gravity)

[CoinHoarder]

I was planning on using something like this: http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/growing-lights/lighting-accessories/6-ice-box-heat-exchanger/

Your solution would probably be cheaper if I could make it work. But, sometimes I need to leave the house for 5 days a week for work, so I can't stand the risk of coming home to a huge puddle on the floor!

Would that not pose a greater risk if you were to put the equipment directly below the unit? (Gravity)

Well, I already built a sound proof box that is 62" by 32" by 48".

I was thinking of throwing one or two of those on the side as a water cooled intake, so the ice box would probably be about a foot to a foot and a half away from any equipment.

I'm not sure if the Ice Box sweats much or not, I need to do a little more research on it.

[Sitarow]

I was planning on using something like this: http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/growing-lights/lighting-accessories/6-ice-box-heat-exchanger/

Your solution would probably be cheaper if I could make it work. But, sometimes I need to leave the house for 5 days a week for work, so I can't stand the risk of coming home to a huge puddle on the floor!

Would that not pose a greater risk if you were to put the equipment directly below the unit? (Gravity)

Well, I already built a sound proof box that is 62" by 32" by 48".

I was thinking of throwing one or two of those on the side as a water cooled intake, so the ice box would probably be about a foot to a foot and a half away from any equipment.

Are you capable of controlling the air moving into and out of the room? Maybe with one of these?



Power usage at about 160-200 watt's at full power 3300-4000 CFM

[AmDD]

Cool, cheap idea but how long does the ice last? And how much energy/time do you use to make it? It may be more efficient just to get a window A/C unit.

[CoinHoarder]

Well, I'm using a dryer circuit to power everything. So, I have a 4" dryer exhaust right there that would be really handy to use.

It's a rental property, so I'd rather not make any permanent modifications, and there aren't any windows near the the laundry area to put a bigger exhaust fan in.

I'm thinking a 4" exhaust is too little for ~5500 of power in a small enclosed space without something else to help with the temperatures.

I already have the water chiller laying around, so I'm leaning towards a water cooled intake rather than putting in an A/C unit.

Plus, water cooling is more efficient than an A/C, so I technically I will be able to cool more with a smaller power bill.

[CoinHoarder]

Cool, cheap idea but how long does the ice last? And how much energy/time do you use to make it? It may be more efficient just to get a window A/C unit.

That's the thing... as it runs, the heat in the air is transferred into the water. So, after the water warms to the original temperature of the room, it would not cool the air at all.

How long it would take to heat up would depend on the size of the reservoir (it would be ideal to use something much larger than a 5 gallon bucket... think 100+ gallons), whether you use ice or not, and the amount of heat you are trying to dissipate.

I guess it would work OK for smaller setups, but switching out buckets of water and ice often seems a little exhaustive.

The only reason why I'm interested in this solution is that I have ~$1000 water chiller that is just laying around that would be perfect for this.

[AmDD]

Cool, cheap idea but how long does the ice last? And how much energy/time do you use to make it? It may be more efficient just to get a window A/C unit.

That's the thing... as this thing runs, the heat in the air is transferred into the water.

So, after the water warms to the original temperature of the room, it would not cool the air at all.

How long it would take to heat up would depend on the size of the reservoir (it would be ideal to use something much larger than a 5 gallon bucket... think 100+ gallons), whether you use ice or not, and the amount of heat you are trying to dissipate.

I guess it would work OK for smaller setups, but switching out buckets of water and ice often seems a little exhaustive.

The only reason why I'm interested in this solution is that I have ~$1000 water chiller that is just laying around that would be perfect for this.

Not only that but your freezer is the same sort of idea as an A/C unit, it cools the air inside it. So your taking heat from the air and using a fan to transfer it to water, then putting water in a freezer to transfer heat back to the air and freezing the water. All the while you have to manually move ice/water around. It just seems anA/C unit would be more efficient... Or a water chiller as you say you have.

[CoinHoarder]

Not only that but your freezer is the same sort of idea as an A/C unit, it cools the air inside it. So your taking heat from the air and using a fan to transfer it to water, then putting water in a freezer to transfer heat back to the air and freezing the water. All the while you have to manually move ice/water around. It just seems anA/C unit would be more efficient... Or a water chiller as you say you have.

I agree, if I was building from scratch I would go with an A/C. Water chillers are expensive.

EDIT- A pool would be ideal for this, you could dissipate a lot of heat especially if you have a pool in a cold climate! You would have the biggest hot tub in town!!! 

[poon-TANG]

This is one of the simple tutorial 7 watt pump power + Fan power 60-150 watt.

Custom made AC unit to cool your systems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0J8OvDSmM&feature=related

Wouldn't the copper tubing sweat? I'd be scared to get that too close to my rigs.

The chance of the tubing sweating and the fan blowing water and shorting something seems likely.

Or am I wrong?

I ask because this setup would be really perfect for me if it wouldn't sweat. I have a 1/2 HP water chiller sitting around not being used, so I could set up maybe 3 or 4 of these and use the chiller to cool the water. 

Yes the copper tubing would sweat. Open up your home A/C and look at the cooling unit you'll see a water troff and a pipe going outside for the water to drain.

[mrb]

This seems unnecessarily complex. The surface of the copper pipe exposed to the air is so small that your setup is probably LESS efficient than a fan pointing down to blow air directly on a tray filled with ice water. And this would be a lot simpler to "set up" and less expensive.

[ElectricMucus]

This is beyond ridiculous, the ice taken out of the fridge needs to be produced and the heat exchanger in it convects the heat into the room.  This is even a net loss in cooling.

Seriously a used AC costs 50bucks on ebay, yes these things consume 2400W, but for a reason.

[sveetsnelda]

the ice taken out of the fridge needs to be produced

^this...   and it costs more than 45 watts.

[joshv06]

the ice taken out of the fridge needs to be produced

^this...   and it costs more than 45 watts.

Nice, I need one of these. Perhaps cards like the 7970 can benefit from these, cooler environments call for lower power consumption.

[sveetsnelda]

Nice, I need one of these. Perhaps cards like the 7970 can benefit from these, cooler environments call for lower power consumption.

What?  No.  Ugh.  You completely missed the point.    It's horribly inefficient and costs more than an AC unit in power.