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Author Topic: Any way to make IBM Bladecenter H 2880W fans quieter?  (Read 3901 times)
MarkAz
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December 11, 2015, 06:24:29 PM
 #41

To save some time and work, you can use the original connectors 4 pins microfit, I'll dig the reference. I still have a handful of connectors and crimp pins laying somewhere.
The original fans are 4 pins, and temperature controlled.

Yeah, I had considered that but wasn't sure how it would handle the different fan charactistics (ie; 1 fan instead of 3, 5000rpm instead of 12000rpm, etc).  If you could post a link to the datasheet on it, that would be great and I'd give it a shot, converting over those connectors on the board would be trivial, as I pull them out anyway.
methodlimp (OP)
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December 11, 2015, 11:06:57 PM
 #42

If that PSU was having issues, it's a lemon. I think Phil was running on 120V back then too. 240V is easier on the PSUs, I hope you'll be using 240V with 6 S7s?

EVGA says you can pull 1300W DC from them, IE ~1450W at the wall for 10 years. That's good enough for me! Worse case they replace the PSU for free.

I've got them running on 208v actually. I've got a 100amp subpanel just for mining.
J4bberwock
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December 12, 2015, 11:06:11 PM
Last edit: December 12, 2015, 11:16:26 PM by J4bberwock
 #43

To save some time and work, you can use the original connectors 4 pins microfit, I'll dig the reference. I still have a handful of connectors and crimp pins laying somewhere.
The original fans are 4 pins, and temperature controlled.

Yeah, I had considered that but wasn't sure how it would handle the different fan charactistics (ie; 1 fan instead of 3, 5000rpm instead of 12000rpm, etc).  If you could post a link to the datasheet on it, that would be great and I'd give it a shot, converting over those connectors on the board would be trivial, as I pull them out anyway.


I did it for one customer, and never got a complaint since he got it in april.

Anyway, for those interested, Molex part numbers to connect a 4 wires PWM fan in place of the fan pack are as follow:
Microfit 3.0 receptacle (4 contacts): 0430250400
Microfit 3.0 Female crimp terminals: 0430300001 (or 0430300007 if you don't want to order a full reel)

I'll try to get back the pinout from a disassembled fan pack I have laying somewhere or from the pictures I sent to my customer.

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philipma1957
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December 16, 2015, 04:16:48 AM
 #44

I am working on a idea to lower sound will post back.  and will show on the large review thread here


https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1284563.0;all



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MarkAz
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December 17, 2015, 05:53:50 AM
 #45

I did it for one customer, and never got a complaint since he got it in april.

Anyway, for those interested, Molex part numbers to connect a 4 wires PWM fan in place of the fan pack are as follow:
Microfit 3.0 receptacle (4 contacts): 0430250400
Microfit 3.0 Female crimp terminals: 0430300001 (or 0430300007 if you don't want to order a full reel)

I'll try to get back the pinout from a disassembled fan pack I have laying somewhere or from the pictures I sent to my customer.


Cool - I ordered those up from Digikey... You wouldn't happen to know the part number for a male KK 100 connection, something that a 4-pin PWM fan could connect to?  Like these:

philipma1957
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December 19, 2015, 02:12:38 PM
 #46

I did get very good results with the sound proofing here are results with the avalon 6's and the s-7




and sound meter readings

on the den/home theater couch  with garage door open--- 39.7db



about 46.8  a few feet from garage door



at the garage door 52.4



in the garage 59.7 pointed towards the intake spot



the outflow spot = 60.9  

lastly right at the intake of the 2880 watt psu 71.8 notice sound proofing i will post the sound proofing technique later today.


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generalt
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January 04, 2016, 12:59:06 PM
 #47

Can you post a picture of how did you connect fan wires to the Jabber board?

There's no secret sauce to it - the fans are 12v so I just made a PCIe adapter to connect it.  Just positive to positive, negative to negative - the only trick is whether or not the fan will be full speed without a PWM signal (most work like this), or use a 3 pin fan.

My first rev I hard-wired it, but I had a fan die on one of them and it was a huge PIA, so I switched to making an adapter - and finally added the thermal PWM board.

I'd be interested in a couple of these when the kit is ready. 

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