I want to mine on my Oven' NEMA 14-50r

[VirosaGITS]

I have a NEMA 14-50r that i would rather not change, i move out soon, but i would still like to mine on it for the time being and when i move i will also have access to a NEMA 14-50r.

-What would be the most cost effective solution? (30A PDU on 50A receptable?)
-What would be the solution where i would get access to the most power?
-In regard to question #2, would it be possible to get a electrically safe box that would plug into a NEMA 14-50r and output multiple of the the more common outlet that the cheap PDU plug into?

I remember philipma1957 linking PDU dirt cheap. But it seem that a 50A PDU is 10x the price of a 30A PDU or so?

Note: The breaker the 14-50r is plugged into is 40A.

[1715391096]

1715391096

[1715391096]

1715391096

[notlist3d]

I have a NEMA 14-50r that i would rather not change, i move out soon, but i would still like to mine on it for the time being and when i move i will also have access to a NEMA 14-50r.

-What would be the most cost effective solution? (30A PDU on 50A receptable?)
-What would be the solution where i would get access to the most power?
-In regard to question #2, would it be possible to get a electrically safe box that would plug into a NEMA 14-50r and output multiple of the the more common outlet that the cheap PDU plug into?

I remember philipma1957 linking PDU dirt cheap. But it seem that a 50A PDU is 10x the price of a 30A PDU or so?

Note: The breaker the 14-50r is plugged into is 40A.

I don't know that I have seen any deals on 50 amp PDU, I think that route might be hard due to not near as many used ones on market.  When you go to 20 or 30 amp PDU's you can find a deal most of the time.  There really are a lot of used people sell for far less then new price.   I have one really nice 30 amp pdu I owe Phil for finding a deal on, and I have one lower quality one as a backup I bought about a month ago.

What I would be doing is looking for a way to split it and go to 2 PDU's.   Someone else chime in.  But I think splitting the connection might be way to go.  Anyone have a decent deal on a cable to do this for him?  I'm thinking a cable that can do this on 40a might be a tad expensive as far as splitters go.

[VirosaGITS]

I have a NEMA 14-50r that i would rather not change, i move out soon, but i would still like to mine on it for the time being and when i move i will also have access to a NEMA 14-50r.

-What would be the most cost effective solution? (30A PDU on 50A receptable?)
-What would be the solution where i would get access to the most power?
-In regard to question #2, would it be possible to get a electrically safe box that would plug into a NEMA 14-50r and output multiple of the the more common outlet that the cheap PDU plug into?

I remember philipma1957 linking PDU dirt cheap. But it seem that a 50A PDU is 10x the price of a 30A PDU or so?

Note: The breaker the 14-50r is plugged into is 40A.

I don't know that I have seen any deals on 50 amp PDU, I think that route might be hard due to not near as many used ones on market.  When you go to 20 or 30 amp PDU's you can find a deal most of the time.  There really are a lot of used people sell for far less then new price.   I have one really nice 30 amp pdu I owe Phil for finding a deal on, and I have one lower quality one as a backup I bought about a month ago.

What I would be doing is looking for a way to split it and go to 2 PDU's.   Someone else chime in.  But I think splitting the connection might be way to go.  Anyone have a decent deal on a cable to do this for him?  I'm thinking a cable that can do this on 40a might be a tad expensive as far as splitters go.

Worse case Scenario, a nice deal on a 30A PDU with an adapter that fit in the 14-50r would be okay, until i get a way to slap two 20~30A PDU on the 50a outlet? (Or find a 50a PDU)

I need a quick and cheap solution for as soon as possible and then the maxed setup can wait a bit.

[VirosaGITS]

Would at 0.01BTC entice some people into pointing out info/a good deal that could lead in a quick resolution of my power cap solution? A more permanent grade solution would still be interesting to obtain in the following month or so, but i could really use some extra Amps right soon.

[philipma1957]

Would at 0.01BTC entice some people into pointing out info/a good deal that could lead in a quick resolution of my power cap solution? A more permanent grade solution would still be interesting to obtain in the following month or so, but i could really use some extra Amps right soon.

Yeah I can help you let me go to my pc and not my iPad .


okay here is your receptacle


http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA

correct?


I need to know what your psu power cords are.


 http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RL-40401-4-Feet-40-Amp-Range/dp/B00BHGXYUE/ref=sr_1_4?


http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?


either of the above can be used to build an adapter

http://www.generatorsforhomeuse.us/14-50r/




if you use the yellow plug:





You can attach a pdu like this one. just take the plug off it.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-56205-S5-Compaq-50-60Hz-24A-4-port-PDU-Power-Distribution-Unit-Upgrade-/390707937861?



this is the yellow plug---------------------------------------- lll  -----------------------  the plug on the pdu is  3 wire remove it
                                                                                lll
                                                                                lll
       (N) --------------------- leave empty       ------------- lll   ------------------(no wire for the neutral)                                       
                                                                               lll
(H)         (H)                                                             lll                           [H]        [H]
                                                                               lll

     (G)                                                                                                        {g}


so for 40 bucks  15 for the plug and 25 for the pdu    you can run 4 s-7's

as that pdu can do 24 amps  or 5760 watts  


so do you like the idea?    is it worth 0.01

[VirosaGITS]

Would at 0.01BTC entice some people into pointing out info/a good deal that could lead in a quick resolution of my power cap solution? A more permanent grade solution would still be interesting to obtain in the following month or so, but i could really use some extra Amps right soon.

Yeah I can help you let me go to my pc and not my iPad .


okay here is your receptacle


http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA

correct?

Correct.

I need to know what your psu power cords are.

They're the 120V, i understand i will need to get C13 to C14. Or such.

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RL-40401-4-Feet-40-Amp-Range/dp/B00BHGXYUE/ref=sr_1_4?


http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?


either of the above can be used to build an adapter

http://www.generatorsforhomeuse.us/14-50r/




if you use the yellow plug:

https://i.imgur.com/ybJrMWu.jpg



You can attach a pdu like this one. just take the plug off it.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-56205-S5-Compaq-50-60Hz-24A-4-port-PDU-Power-Distribution-Unit-Upgrade-/390707937861?



this is the yellow plug---------------------------------------- lll  -----------------------  the plug on the pdu is  3 wire remove it
                                                                                lll
                                                                                lll
       (N) --------------------- leave empty       ------------- lll   ------------------(no wire for the neutral)                                      
                                                                               lll
(H)         (H)                                                             lll                           [H]        [H]
                                                                               lll

     (G)                                                                                                        {g}


so for 40 bucks  15 for the plug and 25 for the pdu    you can run 4 s-7's

as that pdu can do 24 amps  or 5760 watts  


so do you like the idea?    is it worth 0.01

I do like the Idea. Is there a plug i could plug two of those PDU on? The breaker its on is 40A, so i would also like a possibly more expensive alternative PDU that would do 30-40A or a way to plug two of such PDU on one receptacle? I also think i will need more than 4 ports because i have ATX PSU's in the 650-1050w range mostly.

Also, the shipping on that item is 110USD, so i will try to find an alternative.

Lastly, do i need any special tools to do this? I got basically nothing here beside a screwdriver and pliers.

Regardless, tell me where to send the 0.01BTC.

P.S.; I'm in Canada so i'm looking through http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=PDU&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XPDU+240v.TRS1&_nkw=PDU+240v&_sacat=0

and amazon.ca, newegg.ca etc.

Edit:
First find;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Pulizzi-Eaton-Powerware-ePDU-T982F3-Series-Monitored-PDU-T982F3-F-SL-109-240V-/321000822839?hash=item4abd23d837:g:i4YAAOSw9mFWJrY~
Only 24A but has lots of outlets.

Second find, really cheap;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620091411%26meid%3D1a1d84df33944300b5cc080c3217462e%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D222021624372

Third find, 40A, cheap;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-8-3kVA-40A-Core-Modular-PDU-EO4505N-417587-D71-228481-007-3x16A-Power-Cords-/401071409648?hash=item5d61b809f0:g:YEYAAMXQXTZRfqll

I'm guessing i'd need some power strip to put on it to get the outlets i need.

BTC

[philipma1957]

the middle pdu is the  one a screw driver will remove the plug.  save the plug as it is worth  10 usd.


a screwdriver would allow you to attach the yellow plug.

the 24amp rating is the derated number ie the full 24amp can be used .

so 4 s-7's

 using this cord

4 of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?


this ebay seller has a warehouse in Toronto.

my addy is

1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje




I am trying to stay  within codes and the solution of the :

yellow plug from amazon ------ http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?

the pdu from ebay  ------------ http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?

the 4 power cords from ebay ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?



  should be safe. It certainly won't over tax the power of the outlet




any other idea I do would not be code.

it would involve this wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGXYUE/ref=s9_simh_gw_g86_i3_r?

two of these

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-L630R-Industrial/dp/B00062BJG6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?

a junction box for  two pdu's

and while mechanically sound  it would not be code -------  so it may be unsafe

[VirosaGITS]

the middle pdu is the  one a screw driver will remove the plug.  save the plug as it is worth  10 usd.


a screwdriver would allow you to attach the yellow plug.

the 24amp rating is the derated number ie the full 24amp can be used .

so 4 s-7's

 using this cord

4 of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?


this ebay seller has a warehouse in Toronto.

my addy is

1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje




I am trying to stay  within codes and the solution of the :

yellow plug from amazon ------ http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?

the pdu from ebay  ------------ http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?

the 4 power cords from ebay ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?



  should be safe. It certainly won't over tax the power of the outlet




any other idea I do would not be code.

it would involve this wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGXYUE/ref=s9_simh_gw_g86_i3_r?

two of these

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-L630R-Industrial/dp/B00062BJG6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?

a junction box for  two pdu's

and while mechanically sound  it would not be code -------  so it may be unsafe

Alright thanks, i'll see what i can do with this. (Tip sent)

I assume PDU's dont have surge protection. How do i get it for this?

[philipma1957]

the middle pdu is the  one a screw driver will remove the plug.  save the plug as it is worth  10 usd.


a screwdriver would allow you to attach the yellow plug.

the 24amp rating is the derated number ie the full 24amp can be used .

so 4 s-7's

 using this cord

4 of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?


this ebay seller has a warehouse in Toronto.

my addy is

1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje




I am trying to stay  within codes and the solution of the :

yellow plug from amazon ------ http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?

the pdu from ebay  ------------ http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?

the 4 power cords from ebay ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?



  should be safe. It certainly won't over tax the power of the outlet




any other idea I do would not be code.

it would involve this wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGXYUE/ref=s9_simh_gw_g86_i3_r?

two of these

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-L630R-Industrial/dp/B00062BJG6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?

a junction box for  two pdu's

and while mechanically sound  it would not be code -------  so it may be unsafe

Alright thanks, i'll see what i can do with this. (Tip sent)

I assume PDU's dont have surge protection. How do i get it for this?

I am in a private home I use a whole house protector at the panel.

[VirosaGITS]

the middle pdu is the  one a screw driver will remove the plug.  save the plug as it is worth  10 usd.


a screwdriver would allow you to attach the yellow plug.

the 24amp rating is the derated number ie the full 24amp can be used .

so 4 s-7's

 using this cord

4 of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?


this ebay seller has a warehouse in Toronto.

my addy is

1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje




I am trying to stay  within codes and the solution of the :

yellow plug from amazon ------ http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?

the pdu from ebay  ------------ http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?

the 4 power cords from ebay ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?



  should be safe. It certainly won't over tax the power of the outlet




any other idea I do would not be code.

it would involve this wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGXYUE/ref=s9_simh_gw_g86_i3_r?

two of these

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-L630R-Industrial/dp/B00062BJG6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?

a junction box for  two pdu's

and while mechanically sound  it would not be code -------  so it may be unsafe

Alright thanks, i'll see what i can do with this. (Tip sent)

I assume PDU's dont have surge protection. How do i get it for this?

I am in a private home I use a whole house protector at the panel.

I'm in an apartment. How about a surge protector at the 14-50p?

Plug--Surge protection--PDU--strip

or

Plug--PDU--Surge suppressor?

[philipma1957]

the middle pdu is the  one a screw driver will remove the plug.  save the plug as it is worth  10 usd.


a screwdriver would allow you to attach the yellow plug.

the 24amp rating is the derated number ie the full 24amp can be used .

so 4 s-7's

 using this cord

4 of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?


this ebay seller has a warehouse in Toronto.

my addy is

1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje




I am trying to stay  within codes and the solution of the :

yellow plug from amazon ------ http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-PowerGrip-Replacement-Plug/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2?

the pdu from ebay  ------------ http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-1U-Rack-Mount-24A-200-240VAC-1P-Core-Module-PDU-EO4501-417580-D71-228481-002/201523035542?

the 4 power cords from ebay ---  http://www.ebay.com/itm/IEC-C20-to-C13-Power-Cord-3-ft-15A-250V-14-AWG-Iron-Box-IBX-4924-03M-/111165254954?



  should be safe. It certainly won't over tax the power of the outlet




any other idea I do would not be code.

it would involve this wire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGXYUE/ref=s9_simh_gw_g86_i3_r?

two of these

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-L630R-Industrial/dp/B00062BJG6/ref=sr_1_cc_1?

a junction box for  two pdu's

and while mechanically sound  it would not be code -------  so it may be unsafe

Alright thanks, i'll see what i can do with this. (Tip sent)

I assume PDU's dont have surge protection. How do i get it for this?

I am in a private home I use a whole house protector at the panel.

I'm in an apartment. How about a surge protector at the 14-50p?

Plug--Surge protection--PDU--strip

or

Plug--PDU--Surge suppressor?

well that could work  but I am USA 120 volt  and my whole house  does both 120 lines coming in. so when I link the pair of 120s to make 240 I have 240 surge protection.

So in the usa I never really looked int0 240 volt surge protectors.


plug- pdu -surge suppressor- psu- miner    should work but since I never used   a stand alone  240 volt suppressor (only my whole house that shunts surges into the ground)

I do not want to say buy this one or that one.

[VirosaGITS]

well that could work  but I am USA 120 volt  and my whole house  does both 120 lines coming in. so when I link the pair of 120s to make 240 I have 240 surge protection.

So in the usa I never really looked int0 240 volt surge protectors.


plug- pdu -surge suppressor- psu- miner    should work but since I never used   a stand alone  240 volt suppressor (only my whole house that shunts surges into the ground)

I do not want to say buy this one or that one.

Thank you very much for the help, i'll iron out the rest with someone i know that can put all this stuff together like a PRO.

[philipma1957]

well that could work  but I am USA 120 volt  and my whole house  does both 120 lines coming in. so when I link the pair of 120s to make 240 I have 240 surge protection.

So in the usa I never really looked int0 240 volt surge protectors.


plug- pdu -surge suppressor- psu- miner    should work but since I never used   a stand alone  240 volt suppressor (only my whole house that shunts surges into the ground)

I do not want to say buy this one or that one.

Thank you very much for the help, i'll iron out the rest with someone i know that can put all this stuff together like a PRO.

You are welcome and the tip was also welcome.

[VirosaGITS]

And does anyone know if you can use a full house surge protection for this by wiring it into the 240v cable?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leviton-51110-SRG-Whole-House-Surge-Protection-Panel-3400-Joules-120-240V-NEW-/222019923509?hash=item33b16b2e35:g:iXEAAOSwp5JWawG3

[underachieved]

Looks to do either 120/240v.

[westom]

And does anyone know if you can use a full house surge protection for this by wiring it into the 240v cable?

Of course not.  Surge protection is about connecting hundreds of thousands of joules on a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) path to earth.  If not at or in a breaker box. a protector is not doing protection.

Protectors that would 'block' or 'absorb' a surge are selling a magic elixir. Anyone can read its numbers.  Those adjacent protectors only claim to absorb hundreds or a thousand (near zero) joules. Effective protectors are connecting devices to what actually does protection.  That means destructive surge current are not anywhere inside a house.  That means hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside.

[VirosaGITS]

And does anyone know if you can use a full house surge protection for this by wiring it into the 240v cable?

Of course not.  Surge protection is about connecting hundreds of thousands of joules on a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) path to earth.  If not at or in a breaker box. a protector is not doing protection.

Protectors that would 'block' or 'absorb' a surge are selling a magic elixir. Anyone can read its numbers.  Those adjacent protectors only claim to absorb hundreds or a thousand (near zero) joules. Effective protectors are connecting devices to what actually does protection.  That means destructive surge current are not anywhere inside a house.  That means hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside.

Micro surges of over current happen a lot here, i can see it on my multi meter, apparently surge suppressor help with that by absorbing the extra current, which reduce the long term strain on all the electronic connected to it.

I'm not trying to block a lightning strike, here, i should be safe from that already.

[westom]

Microsurges of over current happen a lot here, i can see it on my multi meter, apparently surge suppressor help with that by absorbing the extra current, which reduce the long term strain on all the electronic connected to it.

If you can see it on a multimeter, then it is not a surge. If you saw it on a multimeter, relevant numbers were posted. Hearsay is routine when one cannot  provide numbers.

What is damaged by a micro surge?  No number will be posted because propaganda invents a fear called micro surges - that never causes damage - that is undefined by a number - that cannot be measured by a meter.  Anyone who first learned numbers would know that.

For example, how many volts does an ethernet suffer without damage?  2000 volts.  A micro surge that is well below 2000 volts somehow causes damage?  Yes - when someone does not attack their source for not providing honesty - a number.  No numbers is how scam artists recruit the most naive.  Honestly can only exists when numbers are provided.

Destructive surges are hundreds of thousands of joules.  An effective protector connects something less than 50,000 amps low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) and harmlessly to earth.  Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside. Then micro surges also cause no damage.   No numbers (and we all learned this from what promoted Mission Accomplished) are a first indication of scams and lies.  Every honest recommendation also says where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  Always.

Where did he provide even one number that defines a micro surge?  Show us a meter number that says otherwise.

Destructive surges are characterized by an 8/20 microsecond transient - another damning number.  Learn this from any MOV datasheet.  Meters can never measure that transients. Only the informed would know that.  Numbers are ignored when ineffective (near zero) protection is recommended by myths and hearsay.

Micro surges are made irrelevant by protection already inside every appliance.  How many clocks, GFCIs, dishwashers, LED bulbs, radios, TVs, and recharging devices are you replacing daily or weekly due micro surges?  None?  What needs protection from micro surges?  Smoke detectors?  What protects THE most important appliance when any surge exists?  Best protection is already inside every appliance.  Micro surge are irrelevant when reality and numbers exist.

An informed consumer earths a 'whole house' protector so that a typically destructive surge (and micro surges) do not cause damage.  Most only know otherwise by ignoring spec numbers.  The fewer and informed properly earth one 'whole house' protector. Then all surges cause no damage ... those damn spec numbers.

Protection from all surges (ie direct lightning strikes, micro surges, etc) has always been provided by properly earthing a 'whole house' protector such as one from Leviton.  Protection increases with every foot shorter to earth AND with every foot of separation between protector and computer.

[VirosaGITS]

Microsurges of over current happen a lot here, i can see it on my multi meter, apparently surge suppressor help with that by absorbing the extra current, which reduce the long term strain on all the electronic connected to it.

If you can see it on a multimeter, then it is not a surge. If you saw it on a multimeter, relevant numbers were posted. Hearsay is routine when one cannot  provide numbers.

What is damaged by a micro surge?  No number will be posted because propaganda invents a fear called micro surges - that never causes damage - that is undefined by a number - that cannot be measured by a meter.  Anyone who first learned numbers would know that.

For example, how many volts does an ethernet suffer without damage?  2000 volts.  A micro surge that is well below 2000 volts somehow causes damage?  Yes - when someone does not attack their source for not providing honesty - a number.  No numbers is how scam artists recruit the most naive.  Honestly can only exists when numbers are provided.

Destructive surges are hundreds of thousands of joules.  An effective protector connects something less than 50,000 amps low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) and harmlessly to earth.  Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside. Then micro surges also cause no damage.   No numbers (and we all learned this from what promoted Mission Accomplished) are a first indication of scams and lies.  Every honest recommendation also says where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed.  Always.

Where did he provide even one number that defines a micro surge?  Show us a meter number that says otherwise.

Destructive surges are characterized by an 8/20 microsecond transient - another damning number.  Learn this from any MOV datasheet.  Meters can never measure that transients. Only the informed would know that.  Numbers are ignored when ineffective (near zero) protection is recommended by myths and hearsay.

Micro surges are made irrelevant by protection already inside every appliance.  How many clocks, GFCIs, dishwashers, LED bulbs, radios, TVs, and recharging devices are you replacing daily or weekly due micro surges?  None?  What needs protection from micro surges?  Smoke detectors?  What protects THE most important appliance when any surge exists?  Best protection is already inside every appliance.  Micro surge are irrelevant when reality and numbers exist.

An informed consumer earths a 'whole house' protector so that a typically destructive surge (and micro surges) do not cause damage.  Most only know otherwise by ignoring spec numbers.  The fewer and informed properly earth one 'whole house' protector. Then all surges cause no damage ... those damn spec numbers.

Then i dont know how to call them, but i saw volt go over and under current, i can see the voltage go +-5V in real time, sometimes it goes higher, the lights get bright and quiet often an incandescent ampule burn out. How do you call that?

[westom]

Then i dont know how to call them, but i saw volt go over and under current, i can see the voltage go +-5V in real time, sometimes it goes higher, the lights get bright and quiet often an incandescent ampule burn out. How do you call that?

You saw what voltage vary +-5V?  Woefully subjective and vague.  Voltage ideal for all 120 v appliances can vary well beyond 5 volts.  Perfectly good even for motorized appliances - that are less robust.

Incandescent bulbs can dim to 50% intensity.  Or brighten to double intensity. Voltage changes that large are perfectly good for all electronics.  Computers can withstand even larger variations.  If voltage drops lower, then electronics do a normal power off.  Why should normal voltage variations cause concern?  And why is that harmful?

That and other protectors completely ignore +-5V changes.  Its let-through voltage is 330 volts.  That means 120 volts must well exceed 330 volts before it does anything. What does a protector do when voltages vary +-5v?

If a Leviton is properly earthed at the service entrance (ie at breaker box), then everything inside has effective protection.  Leviton is effective when connected that close (low impedance) to earth ground.  Lesser transients are already made irrelevant by what must exist inside every appliance.