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Author Topic: Winter cooling device design.  (Read 1175 times)
Transisto
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January 30, 2013, 06:58:02 PM
 #1

Is there something cheap already on the market that would simply open a vent when room temperature get too high ?

Otherwise it seems like something that could easily be done with as an arduino type project.

Using an old heating thermostat...
How would you open a vent when a steady 120v current is present, and have it close when current stop ?

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Luno
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January 30, 2013, 07:09:30 PM
 #2

A greenhouse vent opens like a thermostat in an engine cooling loop and is purely mechanical.
Costs $20 and lifts 15 lbs.

                                                                               
                
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January 30, 2013, 07:23:03 PM
 #3

deleted my post; can't beat a $20 mechanical arm lol.
Transisto
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January 30, 2013, 07:27:06 PM
 #4

A greenhouse vent opens like a thermostat in an engine cooling loop and is purely mechanical.
Costs $20 and lifts 15 lbs.
Wow that's awesome, looking for providers... and adapting it for basement type windows.

They all seems to advertise it's solar powered, isn't it heat powered ?
It's based on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax_motor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax_thermostatic_element
http://www.chrisleung.org/heatmotors.htm

(51 mBTC tipped to Luno)
nbtcminer
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January 31, 2013, 08:05:06 AM
 #5

After flip flopping and doing some research I came across the following info I though might be helpful you in addition to the green house hinge; if you happen to be mining at home / the office / a warehouse and want to be remotely monitor the space temps / be notified if temps in the room are too high, check out the following:


Arduino with ethernet connection that e-mails you when temps are too high:

http://exosite.com/project/basic-arduino-temperature-web-monitor

Parts can get gotten from deal extreme for about $40 USD (including shipping)

Arduino Uno R3 board:
http://dx.com/p/arduino-uno-rev3-development-board-120464

DTH11 Temperature sensor (*does humidity too):
http://dx.com/p/arduino-digital-temperature-humidity-sensor-module-121350

Ethernet shield:
http://dx.com/p/ethernet-shield-with-wiznet-w5100-ethernet-chip-tf-slot-118061

Breadboard wire jumpers:
http://dx.com/p/breadboard-jumper-wires-for-electronic-diy-65-cable-pack-118826
(*note: You'll likely need to solder stuff so this will be useful for both proto typing / final revision)

Power Source (*Optional):
http://dx.com/p/arduino-9v-1a-power-adapter-black-2-flat-pin-plug-100cm-cable-126288
(*Note: this is only if you plan on not having this by your computer, other wise you can power the unit from your USB port).

10k omh Resistor:
http://www.parallax.com/Store/Components/Resistors/tabid/149/ProductID/213/List/1/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName,ProductName



I pulled out an old Arduino and am trying it all out at (I went out and bought the temp sensor); it actually happens to be useful for a location I need to monitor so I'm doing some work on the project anyways.


Cheers,

nbtcminer
Luno
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January 31, 2013, 08:40:16 AM
 #6

A greenhouse vent opens like a thermostat in an engine cooling loop and is purely mechanical.
Costs $20 and lifts 15 lbs.
Wow that's awesome, looking for providers... and adapting it for basement type windows.

They all seems to advertise it's solar powered, isn't it heat powered ?
It's based on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax_motor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax_thermostatic_element
http://www.chrisleung.org/heatmotors.htm

(51 mBTC tipped to Luno)

They are temperature powered. "Solar power" is just a marketing catch phrase. THX for the tip.

If they were painted black they would over react because of the sun heating them to 60+ degrees centigrade.

                                                                               
                
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benjamindees
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January 31, 2013, 12:07:42 PM
 #7

Don't open a vent.  Just use a PC case fan.  It won't leak too much when it's off, and will move a lot of air when it's on.  Maybe attach a flap to it if necessary.

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February 01, 2013, 03:05:06 AM
 #8

Don't open a vent.  Just use a PC case fan.  It won't leak too much when it's off, and will move a lot of air when it's on.  Maybe attach a flap to it if necessary.
The attic trap is left open so having a fan in front of an open window in the basement would make it spin at 10000 rpm ... so yeah, there would be some leakage.
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