Block Erupter USB - Overclocking/ hacking ?

[Numberless]

I'll be dammed - it WORKED   

447 MH/s using bitminter just like in the guide.  Wasn't sure what the icarus timing parameters in bfgminer ought to be set to, and cgminer didn't seem to want to see it, but at this point I'm just glad I didn't mess up the rework job. 

Instead of mining with more hashing power, I like to think of this as mining at the previous difficulty level  . 

Considering my lack of experience working with SMDs, I basically needed this thread and the tutorial to pull this off.  So thanks everyone! 

[1714895040]

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[1714895040]

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[1714895040]

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[ktbken]

I'll be dammed - it WORKED    

447 MH/s using bitminter just like in the guide.  Wasn't sure what the icarus timing parameters in bfgminer ought to be set to, and cgminer didn't seem to want to see it, but at this point I'm just glad I didn't mess up the rework job.  

Instead of mining with more hashing power, I like to think of this as mining at the previous difficulty level  .  

Considering my lack of experience working with SMDs, I basically needed this thread and the tutorial to pull this off.  So thanks everyone!  

You just need to use   -S all     with bfgminer nothing  else the rest is automatic

[ElitePork]

Something I noticed
1) if you have high HW error, resolder the R1 resistor. It seems like it is not connecting properly.
2) if your miner is not able to detect, resolder the crystal.
3) a overclocked miner uses ~6watts...

[pugano]

I'll be dammed - it WORKED    

447 MH/s using bitminter just like in the guide.  Wasn't sure what the icarus timing parameters in bfgminer ought to be set to, and cgminer didn't seem to want to see it, but at this point I'm just glad I didn't mess up the rework job.  

Instead of mining with more hashing power, I like to think of this as mining at the previous difficulty level  .  

Considering my lack of experience working with SMDs, I basically needed this thread and the tutorial to pull this off.  So thanks everyone!  

+1 to the mining at previous difficulty. I think its time to just dump money into my car instead of mining. just upgrade the rest of of my miners and then start to buy car parts heh.

[cableiso]

OK, got 2 of 12 done using 16MHz and 1.35k.  Looking good so far.  On one, I changed the inductor because the stock inductor REALLY looks like a 2A version.  However both are running fine, and I don't see a big difference in the temp of the step down converter.  #8 and 11 if you can't tell



I'm machining some aluminum heatsinks to hold two each, as I can't imagine the stock heatsink can dissipate the extra power - is anyone with an overclock running the stock heatsink here?  Are you guys using thermal grease, or finding the silicone pad is enough?  Even with the new heatsink, the chip is quite a bit hotter.  Definitely not as hot as stock crystal, stock heatsink, and no fan - that will freaking burn you - but still quite a bit warmer than stock setup with fan.

Edit - by the way, I did my rework with a fine-tipped soldering iron.  I have quite a bit of experience hand-soldering SMD's, and I would say its not too bad.  My suggestions for those who may try it.
1) Make sure you know what you're doing.  These are too expensive to learn to solder with.
2) First add some standard (lead based) solder to anything you're working on.  The stock solder seems like lead-free, which melts a bit hotter.  You'll find it easier if you "dilute" the solder with some good old lead-based solder.
3) You might as well remove C7 (little cap just below crystal) to give yourself more room to work with.  Just remember to put it back later.  BE CAREFUL!  These caps are not very good quality, and tend to break the endcaps off with any prying or force.  The value is 100nF, probably 6.3V if you need to replace it.  The symptom of a broken cap is a device that is recognized by USB and bfgminer but "cannot be opened"
4) Blob some solder onto all four pads of the XTAL, and alternate holding the body of the soldering iron's tip on one side then the other.  Soon it will slip free.  Don't ram it in to any of the QFN chips, or you'll get solder on their pins.
5) Clean the pads with solder wick, then put a tiny film of new solder on them before placing the new XTAL.  Gently hold it in place with tweezers or a chopstick, and blip a new little blob of solder onto each of the four connections.  You may need to use flux to coax the solder into making a nice connection, but it should be pretty simple overall.
6) The resistor is a no-brainer: Dilute the solder with more solder, alternate sides until it begins to slip free.  Clean the pads and place the new resistor.

[KKDZ28]

Thanks Cableiso for the C7 info.  I was going to ask if anyone knew the value of it since I broke an end off of it.  My LCR meter took a crap on me too.  I have been doing SMD soldering for some time and never had one pop an end off that easy.  I use an old hot air rework station and got a little anxious getting my crystal off.  C7 was moving around so I just pulled it off to make room.  Oops. haha  That's what I get for rushing.   Thanks again for the info. 

[mjgraham]

OK, got 2 of 12 done using 16MHz and 1.35k.  Looking good so far.  On one, I changed the inductor because the stock inductor REALLY looks like a 2A version.  However both are running fine, and I don't see a big difference in the temp of the step down converter.  #8 and 11 if you can't tell



I'm machining some aluminum heatsinks to hold two each, as I can't imagine the stock heatsink can dissipate the extra power - is anyone with an overclock running the stock heatsink here?  Are you guys using thermal grease, or finding the silicone pad is enough?  Even with the new heatsink, the chip is quite a bit hotter.  Definitely not as hot as stock crystal, stock heatsink, and no fan - that will freaking burn you - but still quite a bit warmer than stock setup with fan.

Edit - by the way, I did my rework with a fine-tipped soldering iron.  I have quite a bit of experience hand-soldering SMD's, and I would say its not too bad.  My suggestions for those who may try it.
1) Make sure you know what you're doing.  These are too expensive to learn to solder with.
2) First add some standard (lead based) solder to anything you're working on.  The stock solder seems like lead-free, which melts a bit hotter.  You'll find it easier if you "dilute" the solder with some good old lead-based solder.
3) You might as well remove C7 (little cap just below crystal) to give yourself more room to work with.  Just remember to put it back later.  BE CAREFUL!  These caps are not very good quality, and tend to break the endcaps off with any prying or force.  The value is 100nF, probably 6.3V if you need to replace it.  The symptom of a broken cap is a device that is recognized by USB and bfgminer but "cannot be opened"
4) Blob some solder onto all four pads of the XTAL, and alternate holding the body of the soldering iron's tip on one side then the other.  Soon it will slip free.  Don't ram it in to any of the QFN chips, or you'll get solder on their pins.
5) Clean the pads with solder wick, then put a tiny film of new solder on them before placing the new XTAL.  Gently hold it in place with tweezers or a chopstick, and blip a new little blob of solder onto each of the four connections.  You may need to use flux to coax the solder into making a nice connection, but it should be pretty simple overall.
6) The resistor is a no-brainer: Dilute the solder with more solder, alternate sides until it begins to slip free.  Clean the pads and place the new resistor.

I found getting rid of the thermal pad made a big difference however I had to insulate the header on the back I was able to short some of them when I put them on the heatsink, actually the soldermask is thin is some places around the vias I get some errors if I tighten them down to much. when I get it done I have 3 on a heatsink running at 26 Mhz ea. of course just as much heatsink on top. I'll put some pics up when I get it done. They work separately at 26 Mhz but don't want to play nice all together.

[emsit]

Something I noticed
1) if you have high HW error, resolder the R1 resistor. It seems like it is not connecting properly.
2) if your miner is not able to detect, resolder the crystal.
3) a overclocked miner uses ~6watts...

Hello, overclocked miner really need 6W???

[mjgraham]

Something I noticed
1) if you have high HW error, resolder the R1 resistor. It seems like it is not connecting properly.
2) if your miner is not able to detect, resolder the crystal.
3) a overclocked miner uses ~6watts...

Hello, overclocked miner really need 6W???

Yes they can, mine is running at about 15W now of course a lot of modifications from stock. Here is a chart I made and it has power listed. I don't have 25 & 26 Mhz clocks on there yet is about it. I am sorry this is just the core power supply there still will be more power use if your using the stock regulator.

[rumak]

Anyone interested in hardware(parts) kits?

I know the biggest barrier for myself to trying this overclock/upgrade is sourcing the parts.. especially since a lot of places have minimum orders or minimum shipping costs..

With Pugano's guide I think almost anyone can do the modification.

If there is interest I can put together some quick kits with the required SMD parts for the USB's and assuming it works the blades... (Waiting for my blade oscillators to arrive this week ...)

Would be pretty small in cost something like 0.03 BTC ($2-2.50) for each USB erupter

Shipping would roughly be around 0.01-0.02(Cost of a few stamps) BTC for up to 10-15 units of parts (Oscillator and resistor) - This is regular mail to USA/CANADA, I can ship it faster/tracked but I would be passing on the cost to you.


I think I have enough parts for about 150 of them at the moment... although 100 of them are up upgrade my own farm and going to be placing another order shortly for a few of my other projects.....

Also have little Ram Heat Sinks as another item for the kit ...

Anywho any interest? (Please post in forum not PM)

[cableiso]

What did you use to insulate once you removed the thermal pad?

PS - Holy moly 723MH?  That's amazing!

[/quote]
I found getting rid of the thermal pad made a big difference however I had to insulate the header on the back I was able to short some of them when I put them on the heatsink, actually the soldermask is thin is some places around the vias I get some errors if I tighten them down to much. when I get it done I have 3 on a heatsink running at 26 Mhz ea. of course just as much heatsink on top. I'll put some pics up when I get it done. They work separately at 26 Mhz but don't want to play nice all together.

[/quote]

[mjgraham]

What did you use to insulate once you removed the thermal pad?

PS - Holy moly 723MH?  That's amazing!

I found getting rid of the thermal pad made a big difference however I had to insulate the header on the back I was able to short some of them when I put them on the heatsink, actually the soldermask is thin is some places around the vias I get some errors if I tighten them down to much. when I get it done I have 3 on a heatsink running at 26 Mhz ea. of course just as much heatsink on top. I'll put some pics up when I get it done. They work separately at 26 Mhz but don't want to play nice all together.

fingernail polish, purple I think still trying to get all three to run at once like this, I am using a single clock with a fanout (with  a buffer) to the rest, think I am getting some noise or jitter . also the screw hole near the USB plug ( I removed those also ) has a +5v trace right there so over tightening a metal screw will short it out.

[cableiso]

Good idea, I may try it.  By the way - I agree about the metal screw shorting risk.  I drilled some holes in a thin piece of plastic (clear sheet from blister pack) then punched them out with a paper hole punch - instant plastic insulating washers for metal screw replacement.

fingernail polish, purple I think still trying to get all three to run at once like this, I am using a single clock with a fanout (with  a buffer) to the rest, think I am getting some noise or jitter . also the screw hole near the USB plug ( I removed those also ) has a +5v trace right there so over tightening a metal screw will short it out.
[/quote]

[Scorpia]

Has anyone played with the new sticks with the smaller inductor and different heat spreader?

ALso if anyone is in australia i can modify small amounts if people want. (I have a few spare crystals.)

if you can supply the parts im happy to modify for a small fee.

[ktbken]

Over clocked 3 new ones to 447  exactly the same as older ones

[cableiso]

Thanks Cableiso for the C7 info.  I was going to ask if anyone knew the value of it since I broke an end off of it.  My LCR meter took a crap on me too.  I have been doing SMD soldering for some time and never had one pop an end off that easy.  I use an old hot air rework station and got a little anxious getting my crystal off.  C7 was moving around so I just pulled it off to make room.  Oops. haha  That's what I get for rushing.   Thanks again for the info.  

Yeah something weird is going on with C7 - caps just don't break this easily.  I'm wondering if it's partly due to the hard lead-free solder and partly due to the serious thermal cycling this little heater puts it through.  They might be starting to crack before any rework is even attempted.  We'll find out soon if people start getting the "steady green light of death" after a couple of months.   I just make it a point to replace C7 anyway when I rework one.

[Zeek_W]

Over clocked 3 new ones to 447  exactly the same as older ones

Fantastic to know!

[chup]

Anyone interested in hardware(parts) kits?

Interested for only 5 kits.

[rumak]

Anyone interested in hardware(parts) kits?

Interested for only 5 kits.

Seems to be some interest... I received a few PM's as well (Even though I asked not to be pm'd :\ )

I`ll sort out the actual cost with shipping and get the details posted shortly..(Next day or so)

[Badman0316]

about the oscillator
need the same brand or same size is fine?