Block Erupter USB - Overclocking/ hacking ?

[mjgraham]

It looks like a 7mm x 5mm package area I could be wrong though.

[ElitePork]

From what I know, USB block erupter uses 5x3.2mm oscillators and blade uses 7x5mm oscillators.
The older blades uses 14mhz for higher frequency, so u have to buy higher frequency for that.
According to USB block erupter, u can only overclock up to 16.8MHz due to the regulator can only output 3A..

@Friedcat:
Is there a possibilitie to overclock the blade?
There is only a pre-defined high clock, iam reaching
13.2 gh/s, but could reach more because my blade
Is on the heatsink 23 degrees and on the chips 51 degrees.
So is there a way to bring it to a higher hashing rate?
I really would like to.

What is the max temp on the chip side?

Not easy.

The oscillators are fixed on the hashing board (one 12MHz, one 14.318MHz). Low switches to the 12MHz one while High switches to the 14.318MHz one. If you need more speed you will need to buy a 3.3V 5mmx7mm oscillator that is higher than 14.318, unsolder the current one, and solder the new onto the board. We tried 14.7xx and 15 before. On 1.25-1.26V they begin to work, but producing a lot of heat.

Plus, grabbing the oscillators out of the board definitely voids the warranty

[rob143]

The package size is relatively easy to find on didkey but then there are a whole lot of questions they ask on the specs and it becomes a difference of a few dollars each to a few dollars for a dozen. I have not been very successful in finding the original parts specs so I can make get the item to work the first time rather than have to take my blades off line while I experiment.

[Wed]

Works perfectly, thank you very much

[zerocode20]

The 1276-5275-6-ND is not available for Digikey, this is the next best replacement I could fine: RHM1.2KCHCT-ND

Anyone see an issue with this? Thanks

[zerocode20]

Hey mjgraham,

Do you have any close up pics of how the heatsink is contacting the ASIC? I just found some MASSIVE heatsinks that I want to use for the bottom .... just need to figure out the top ones.

Thanks!

[ekrem]

Completed the upgrade on the Blade today.. upgraded the "High" Ossilator to 16MHz.

Simple upgrade

All voltages are around 1.27-1.28 per lane

Here are some picks of the two Ossilators, before and after. (Sorry one is upside down.. I`ll fix that later..)

So far stable its been running for about two hours after these pictures were taken..

Averaged out to around 14375

rumak how to increase the voltage to 1.26-1.28 for my blade max voltage 1.23 work fine with 16 mhz

Total MHS:   14670
Received:   0000049522
Accepted:   0000049592
Per Minute:   200.45
Efficiency:   100.13%
Up Time:   0d,04h,07m,24s

with 18mhz not accept may be need 1.28v

[Zeek_W]

Weeeeeeee!

[viriat0]

914MH/S WOW 

[sgrunger]

Operation successful, except for one that gets a little too many HW errors, but... oh well.

[ElitePork]

A full list of my BEs on one power supply that's only 40USD. Some are OC, some are stock. 1 damaged (not sure from what but it appears the silas chip is damaged.)
Will post picture of my setup later.



Things I noticed,
1) you can't load a full hub of OCBE. It will burn the DC connector. Even if the power supply/adapter can handle the load, the hub DC connector can't.
2) using these power supplies are cheaper compared to adapters.

Edit: when I mean full hub, I'm using 10 USB port hub.

[ElitePork]

As promised.



3 hubs on top of my power supply and one at the bottom.
The power supply is 5V 60A supply. I tested a full load of 10 OCBE @ 448MH/s in one hub. The hub power connector melted in 5 mins... Lucky I managed to save the hub but not the DIY connector...

[ElitePork]

So, no one has yet to compile an exact list of the parts one would need to accomplish this mod.

Would it be possible for those that have accomplished this to post the parts, part numbers, and vendor they procured it from.  Please provide proper links.  I would like to start ordering these for my eruptors.  I also hope to have my Heatsink mod uploaded this evening.

I know that I am a NEWB but I have been through these 27 pages and all anyone ever dies is state 16mhz with no specifics other than physical size 3.3volts.  I would like to understand more  is a higher frequency stability better will that matter?  Should I go for a higher Operating temp? should I care about Load Capacitance?

If nothing matters other than 16mhz 5X3.2 SMD and 3.3 v I will order the one that can get here fastest.

As for the other part the resistor.  will any generic do or do I need parts that have better specs.

Please accept my thanks in advance of answering as well as calm resolve in advance of being flamed for stupidity

Seen this?
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=241652.msg3095556#msg3095556

Overall, now, it is not worthwhile to overclock them. It's cheaper to get one additional BE instead

[Trillium]

I dont think people in this thread are doing this for sick profits. They are doing it to prove it can be done, or for the fun of it, or because they like electronics.

BE cost less than $10 USD now so of course it is more economical to just buy more units than to spend money and time overclocking them (if you really wanted to get a 30% overclock, you could have just paid more and got a blade, which is more economical than an equivalent number of block erupter USBs and more or less 'supports' overclocking with the turn of a screwdriver or two and a few settings changes. (Although, of course, yes, there are better options than blades now, your money could be better spent, etc etc).

[zerocode20]

Got bored today and OC'd 10 more eruptors that I picked up cheap on eBay. Just so happened, last week, I was placing a DigiKey order for work last week and added a bunch more SMD crystals and resistors in case I decided to do any more overclocking for fun or anyone who is interested. For fun, I found some abnormally sized heatsinks that could easily fit 10 eruptors. I have yet to have time to mill the surface and drill the holes, but I will get around to it ....

I still want to try trying a peltier cooler on one just for fun. I would use some type of temperature controller (arduino based) so I can avoid condensation. Having lots of 20A 5V PSU's around is handy ... same as having a function generator. I am curious to see how far I can go with a peltier cooler while bypassing the onboard DC/DC regulator circuit. Pics will come! But for now, here is my latest 10 from today. (There is a stock one in the middle somewhere for comparison).

FYI, Some of these are clocked at 16MHz with R1 replaced with a 1k2 resistor, the others are 16.345MHz with a 1k4 resistor.

Cheers!

[zerocode20]

I dont think people in this thread are doing this for sick profits. They are doing it to prove it can be done, or for the fun of it, or because they like electronics.

BE cost less than $10 USD now so of course it is more economical to just buy more units than to spend money and time overclocking them (if you really wanted to get a 30% overclock, you could have just paid more and got a blade, which is more economical than an equivalent number of block erupter USBs and more or less 'supports' overclocking with the turn of a screwdriver or two and a few settings changes. (Although, of course, yes, there are better options than blades now, your money could be better spent, etc etc).

Definitely doing the BE mod's for fun. Best part is that I can do it at work and I get all my parts and electricity for free 

[cableiso]

UPDATE:

My devices have been running fine at 16MHz for about a month now.  Just in case people are concerned about the long-term reliability, I see no issues so far.

[zerocode20]

UPDATE:

My devices have been running fine at 16MHz for about a month now.  Just in case people are concerned about the long-term reliability, I see no issues so far.

What R1 value are you using? I am using 16Mhx w/ 1.2k and 16.345Mhz w/ 1.4k. Neither of them get hot enough to upgrade the heatsink yet.

[zerocode20]

I dont think people in this thread are doing this for sick profits. They are doing it to prove it can be done, or for the fun of it, or because they like electronics.

BE cost less than $10 USD now so of course it is more economical to just buy more units than to spend money and time overclocking them (if you really wanted to get a 30% overclock, you could have just paid more and got a blade, which is more economical than an equivalent number of block erupter USBs and more or less 'supports' overclocking with the turn of a screwdriver or two and a few settings changes. (Although, of course, yes, there are better options than blades now, your money could be better spent, etc etc).

Definitely doing the BE mod's for fun. Best part is that I can do it at work and I get all my parts and electricity for free 

Are you any where close to the Chicago area?  I could use some help.

OH what were your digikey parts lists for both the 16Mhz and 16.345MHz

Here is a pic of the Digikey Part Numbers. I only needed the 1.2k and 1.4k resistors. I live in Philadelphia btw.

[zerocode20]

I dont think people in this thread are doing this for sick profits. They are doing it to prove it can be done, or for the fun of it, or because they like electronics.

BE cost less than $10 USD now so of course it is more economical to just buy more units than to spend money and time overclocking them (if you really wanted to get a 30% overclock, you could have just paid more and got a blade, which is more economical than an equivalent number of block erupter USBs and more or less 'supports' overclocking with the turn of a screwdriver or two and a few settings changes. (Although, of course, yes, there are better options than blades now, your money could be better spent, etc etc).

Definitely doing the BE mod's for fun. Best part is that I can do it at work and I get all my parts and electricity for free 

Are you any where close to the Chicago area?  I could use some help.

OH what were your digikey parts lists for both the 16Mhz and 16.345MHz

Here is a pic of the Digikey Part Numbers. I only needed the 1.2k and 1.4k resistors. I live in Philadelphia btw.

as for desoldering the Chrystal.  any pointers on reflow?  I will have to use a needle iron.  the hot air that I have will not work the way it is supposed to.

Wish you were closer I would have you come by my work

I have just a basic hot air tool. I set it to around 300C to do the work. You can find some youtube videos to show you some smd techniques. I suggest getting some flux in a syringe and some isopropyl alcohol. I clean the are with the ISO, then apply some flux around the areas i want to desolder. Then, I start to heat with my air gun using tweezers to put tension on the component. The solder melts and I can remove the component easily. Now, I apply a bit more flux and heat up the solder pads so they become nice and fresh. Let the PCB cool for a bit, clean the area with ISO, apply flux and slowly start to heat the pcb. Using tweezers, position your component and then apply the hot air. Once a little solder melts, then apply pressure from the top of the component and heat around the pins. This way, the component will solder and seat flush and secure with the PCB. It's really not as complicated as it sounds. Takes maybe 5-10 minutes per board and that is with me being OCD on the soldering technique.