Erupter Blade V2 issue - not powering on

[cyberwarrior]

That's a great idea haven't used a soldering iron in more years than I'd like to admit.  Do you have a good place where I can buy an SMD R code fuse?

[cyberwarrior]

Thanks for the advice I was just going to toss this blade but I think I will pull out the old soldering iron and see if that does the trick.
 

[cyberwarrior]

tk1337
that's a good idea putting Plastikoat inside an old computer case and then mounting the backplane.

[Vl4dim1r]

IF you aren't able to get it working again, I'll buy it off of you. I have 2 of these green PCB blades that had the same problem.

[SilentSonicBoom]

So SSB got back to me and told me that the new blades don't have fuses, looks like I may have fried the board   D' oh!     

well that sucks, sorry to hear...

I still find it strange, that we both have "REV 2.01" but they are actually different boards.

That is not true

They have SMD R code fuse, 3A, just unsloder old and put new one.

Yes. They have a fuse. It is just not one that you pop out and replace. No extra fuses come in box with this blade style/revision. The above info may work if the fuse was burnt out.

[poochone]

I can bay any faulty asic

[cshelswell]

hey sorry to hijack someone else's thread but i've got a v2 blade that just keeps blowing fuses. Am I right in saying I could rob a 7-10amp fuse out my car and solder it? I wasn't sure what the ratings were with the little ones you slot in there but i've none left

Cheers
Chris

[sidehack]

Should be able to. I'd probably start with a 10A fuse just in case, not too far above stock rating. If that blows there's probably something fairly serious wrong with your board somewhere. Check if any of the transistors on the VRMs (the little 8-pin guys near the grey blocks) are getting hot. One of them could be trying to fail short, or not switching off properly and pulling extra power. Do any of your chips X out on the config page?

[cshelswell]

turns out the unit is no good at all It blew a mosfet when i first plugged it in. so i put a new one on there but it blew it again so i think the unit isn't going to work ever unfortunately.

[sidehack]

Can you disable the buck IC for that bank and run it on the other 7? Probably at minimum pulling the FETs and inductor would do it, and if the other VRMs are still operational you'd be running at 88% capacity.

Or 120% if you overclocked it...

[cshelswell]

hmm i'll give it a go - thanks! It's certainly worth a try, it can't get any worse

[sidehack]

Definitely post if you can get it back alive. I wasn't too worried about messing with mine one bank at a time because the rest were somewhat isolated from a single-point VRM failure but fortunately everything still works. Would like to see how resilient these guys are.

[cshelswell]

If it's easy you couldn't post a pic of the bits to disconnect could you? I'm ok with a soldering iron but not sure exactly the best bits to disconnect to knock a bank out.

Cheers

[sidehack]

I'm not sure but that you might try pulling pin 6 on the buck IC low. It's an enable that's internally pulled high; looks like it routs to a via on the board and it's got voltage on it but I'm not sure yet if it pulls from external or not. If it's externally driven but not resistor-tied to high, then forcing it low could short out the low-volt regulator and power down the board, or fry the regulator. If it's internally pulled high, then putting ground on that via/pin  should keep the thing turned off.
Before relying on that, I'd make sure none of your FETs failed short or they could be driving 12V into the ASICs on that bank.

I'd say if you pull the two FETs and the inductor, that should effectively isolate the voltage output from basically any high-side or ground DC and the regulator IC can't really do a thing about it.

[cshelswell]

fantastic thanks I'll give that a shot later or tomorrow. I think I might have had 12v heading to the asics on one bank though as after the fet blew a row of asics were very quick to follow. Still it was only one bank so like you say, perhaps it'll still power the rest of them up Worth a shot anyway.

Thanks for your help - it's great!

[sidehack]

The good thing about these is each bank has a completely independent VRM, so yeah it's pretty likely that even if one row blew the rest of your chips are still good once the shorted parts are removed. Hopefully a blown FET is all it is.

Just occurred to me, you might also consider checking with ASICMiner about warranty replacement?

[cshelswell]

yeah i couldn't actually figure out how you contact them in order to talk about a replacement? Their website doesn't seem to offer any contact details.

[sidehack]

No clue here either. I tend to void warranties more often than redeem them.

[cshelswell]

haha yep same

[mattminer83]

This same incident just happened to me too.

I just lost 8 blades - Poofff gone.   All running on a backplane sitting on electrical grade GP03 fiberglass....  Was running a 750 PSU and then everything showed Zero for speed on my mining pool.   I didn't have any replacement fuses, nor do I know where to get them. 

I'm still down - Is anyone still buying units like this?  Could use the capital to get new miners.  I have five (5) Green Back BE V. 2.01 and three (3) Blue Back BE V. 2.01's for sale.

All are in perfect condition less the fuse assembly.  Look brand new..

 

I was able to get one unit running perfectly by removing the fuse, cleaning the contacts and electrical taping over the fuse.