[Reward] Power? AsicMiner Blade V2

[BryanK]

It sounds like a faulty voltage regulator.

Probe the serial lines, one section over from the 3.3 section, you will have gnd, tx, rx. Probe the tx and rx and see if you have 3.3 on there. If you have an oscilloscope you could check the output, but seeing if 3.3 is on the tx and rx lets you know whether or not the serial port is active.

All roads are leading to a faulty board. No 3.3 would lead to a voltage regulator, and it the vr went bad and opened it could cause a whole host of problems. Now for all your baldes to have the same issue is troublesome.

Unfortunately do not have an oscilloscope.  I get nothing out of the TX nor the RX

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[caminilegroup]

Bad board, the microprocessor isn't powering up then. If IC 73 isn't damaged, I would guess bad voltage regulators, although it could be bad batch of caps to.

With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.

[BryanK]

Bad board, the microprocessor isn't powering up then. If IC 73 isn't damaged, I would guess bad voltage regulators, although it could be bad batch of caps to.

With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.

Well the second board was my fault i do believe. For the fan output x12, when i was probing the voltage out of it, it sparked because i think the probe contacted both pins. After that, this happened. As for the first one, Its just as we discussed above. Any thoughts on the second one?



I really appreciate you taking the time to help

[caminilegroup]

Bad board, the microprocessor isn't powering up then. If IC 73 isn't damaged, I would guess bad voltage regulators, although it could be bad batch of caps to.

With it being more than one board, and if they were used, over voltage comes to mind. Pump to much power into it, frying the voltage regulator shorting it closed and good by board. Best case, the voltage regulator shorted open and didn't damage any componets.

Well the second board was my fault i do believe. For the fan output x12, when i was probing the voltage out of it, it sparked because i think the probe contacted both pins. After that, this happened. As for the first one, Its just as we discussed above. Any thoughts on the second one?



I really appreciate you taking the time to help

I got the spark to when I was probing X12, board still works fine, hashing away, I believe the X12-14 are protected in case of fan failures.

I just test my other boards, none of them have power on X12-14 so I'm not sure on that. Just to make sure I tested all the points and ~3.3 in the spots where it should be.

I hate to say it but it sounds like someone sold you their mistake. If I had a schematic of these things I could help more but I don't know which voltage regulator goes to what, especially with this board being layered, I can't follow traces.

Maybe sidehack has more more insite, he knows quite a lot more on these boards.

[sidehack]

If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.

The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.

If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.

[BryanK]

If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.

The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.

If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.

Excellent, Ill test this right away. I really appreciate it. Ill report back later today.

[BryanK]

If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.

The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.

If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.

Excellent, Ill test this right away. I really appreciate it. Ill report back later today.

I did just buy 5 fuses just in case I need them. Ill do the testing later on today.

[BryanK]

If you measured 12V across the fuse, then it means the fuse is blown. You're getting power into the Blade's inputs, but not past the fuse. Sparks when testing voltage at the fan header could definitely cause the fuse to blow. Check the DC resistance of the fuse with no power applied - if it reads high (open-circuit) then it's blown.

The soldered-on fuses for the green-board blades are 8A SMD fuses in a 6125 package. Looks like Digikey is out of stock, but a 10A would also work (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125-2/2410SFV10.0FM%2F125CT-ND/2766065) - that's what the blue-board blades came with by default.

If you want to test this, you can solder a 10A automotive blade fuse across the contacts in parallel with the existing fuse and if your blade lights up, that was the problem.

Excellent, Ill test this right away. I really appreciate it. Ill report back later today.

I did just buy 5 fuses just in case I need them. Ill do the testing later on today.

Yahtzee!! - I held a 10a automotive blade fuse across the fuse and the LED lit up. I have the fuses on order and ill get them in place.
You two rock - If you both could - PM me your btc address and Ill send you a little thank you.

I really appreciate it!

[caminilegroup]

Glad you got it working. Happy hashing.

BTC in sig.

[sidehack]

Good to hear that worked. Yeah testing for power on these blades is sorta deceptive - you have to check on the downhill side of the fuse for 12V or you won't know if what's on the board is actually going anywhere.

[BryanK]

Still have to wait for the fuses to come in before i can start hashing

I probably can't use that auto fuse right? lol

[caminilegroup]

Still have to wait for the fuses to come in before i can start hashing

I probably can't use that auto fuse right? lol

As long as it is 10A, it will be fine, maybe sidehack can vouch / verify

[sidehack]

A fuse is a fuse - as long as it meets the current rating it'll be fine. Cubes and 49-port hubs use automotive fuses. I've used automotive fuses on Blades. As long as you can get it to solder on reliably, it'll work.