DeathAndTaxes
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Gerald Davis
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December 01, 2011, 03:59:01 PM |
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No, a 1KW PSU will not power 3 5970's in a stable configuration. Many, many of my initial problems when building my bitcoin rigs turned out to be power related. Once I switched exclusively to 1200w PSUs, 90% of my stability problems went away. Running at the threshold of a PSU will induce all sorts of intermittent problems that are nearly impossible to track down. It depends on the system as I indicated if you are building a general purpose computer which also mines then go 1200W but 100W is fine (check individual rail amperage) for a dedicated 3x5970 rig. Sempron 145 (underclocked to 2GHz). 2GB RAM 4GB flash drive running linux coin. 3x5970s. (820 core & 160 Mhz memory) 80Plus-Gold PSU. everything not needed turned off in bios (usb3, IDE, SATA controller, onboard sound, etc). Pulls 870W at the wall. That is AC wattage. Back out (at least) 10% for PSU inefficiency and it is ~800W DC. That is 80% of 100W rated load. Now before anyone half reads this and does something stupid. 1000W is fine for a USB linux only system properly optimized to reduce non-GPU powerload and w/ proper GPU memory underclocked (huge wattage saver). If you can't / won't do that then go 1200W at least.
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Inaba
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December 01, 2011, 04:12:14 PM |
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An 80 Plus Gold PSU is going to cost you about the same as a bronze or silver 1200 w PSU. You'll also be running the PSU at 80+% capacity 24/7 ... most PSU operate most efficiently at ~50 - ~60% load, not 80%... so your cost over time is going to be higher running a 1KW PSU as well.
While I don't believe any of my sub 1.2KW PSUs were 80plus GOLD rated, they were quality PSUs (Corsair, etc) and they had stability problems if I put in more than 2 5970's along with 5870's. Moving to a 1200w let(s) me put 3 5970's and 1 5870 on the same rig. Anything less and the rig becomes unstable. Swapping one of the 5970's with a 5870 on a sub 1200w PSU and things become stable again.
Like I said, maybe an 80 plus gold would be different, but for the cost difference, my money is on 1200w.
Also - I'd try to make sure you got a single rail design. I've had nothing but trouble trying to balance multi-rail GPUs when you're sucking down amps with dual GPU cards hanging off them on every rail.
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DeathAndTaxes
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Gerald Davis
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December 01, 2011, 04:25:59 PM Last edit: December 01, 2011, 04:59:17 PM by DeathAndTaxes |
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An 80 Plus Gold PSU is going to cost you about the same as a bronze or silver 1200 w PSU. You'll also be running the PSU at 80+% capacity 24/7 ... most PSU operate most efficiently at ~50 - ~60% load, not 80%... so your cost over time is going to be higher running a 1KW PSU as well.
While I don't believe any of my sub 1.2KW PSUs were 80plus GOLD rated, they were quality PSUs (Corsair, etc) and they had stability problems if I put in more than 2 5970's along with 5870's. Moving to a 1200w let(s) me put 3 5970's and 1 5870 on the same rig. Anything less and the rig becomes unstable. Swapping one of the 5970's with a 5870 on a sub 1200w PSU and things become stable again.
Like I said, maybe an 80 plus gold would be different, but for the cost difference, my money is on 1200w.
Interesting alternative view. It is amazing how important the PSU ends up being. Then again we are pushing these machines far beyond what they were ever intended to do. Maybe i just go lucky w/ good PSU. A lot depends on not just the wattage, but rail configuration, quality of the regulation etc. One PSU might have nearly perfect regulation @ 60% load but goes to crap at 80% load. Another might have more variability in voltage @ 60% load but isn't much worse at 80% load. For the record my rigs all have 3x5970 running on either: 1000W model http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168171710561200W model http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171055My workstation (4x5970 water cooled) uses this beast: 1350W http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817194092A little too expensive for mining rigs but I use the workstation more for just mining. It is an awesome PSU the only con would be the price. Nice thick heavy cables, quality cable wraps, all the cables are modular (including ATX 24 pin) which is useful when you need to get into that case crammed w/ 4 dual GPU cards and water cooling gear. The one thing Bitcoin has taught me is that PSU are the unsung heroes of the computing world. Quick question do you run your rigs @ 230V? Either at home or in your datacenter. I am thinking about maybe running a pair of 230V 30A lines in my garage to squeeze another 5% or so efficiency out of the rigs as well as move them all to dedicated circuits.
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cicada
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December 01, 2011, 04:47:28 PM |
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The one thing Bitcoin has taught me is that PSU are the unsung heroes of the computing world. Hear, hear. Gone are the days for me of clicking 'lowest price' sorting and picking the first one that meets the wattage requirements.
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Team Epic!All your bitcoin are belong to 19mScWkZxACv215AN1wosNNQ54pCQi3iB7
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Inaba
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December 01, 2011, 05:07:13 PM |
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Quick question do you run your rigs @ 230V? Either at home or in your datacenter. I am thinking about maybe running a pair of 230V 30A lines in my garage to squeeze another 5% or so efficiency out of the rigs as well as move them all to dedicated circuits. I actually just switched two of my home rigs over to 240v as a test and it seems to be working out very well... and it reduced my amp load requirements for the wiring. If I were to do it all over again, I would just run new 240v lines. In the DC, the rigs I have are currently on 120v - the cost doubles for 240v (but I only need half the amps, so it's a wash) - so I haven't bothered to change out my power requirements in the DC. I would highly recommend running the lines to your garage if you are skating on the edge of your AMP rating of your wiring now, like I was. I'm trying to figure a way to wire up upstairs computer room with 240v heh. Not an easy task sadly, with the breakerbox in the basement. It might be a good time to reiterate that I've ordered a top-of-the-line, +12V single-rail, hugely expensive ($287.43) 1200W PSU: Corsair AX1200 (although in my previous post I swapped the "AX" and the "1200"). I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
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jamesg
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December 01, 2011, 05:10:20 PM |
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Proofer, $300 for a power supply way overboard. Why would you spend $300 on one 1200w power supply when you can by 2 700w for $120-$140? IMHO, this is just wasting money.
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DeathAndTaxes
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Gerald Davis
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December 01, 2011, 05:13:19 PM Last edit: December 01, 2011, 05:35:46 PM by DeathAndTaxes |
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Proofer, $300 for a power supply way overboard. Why would you spend $300 on one 1200w power supply when you can by 2 700w for $120-$140?
IMHO, this is just wasting money.
You can get a 700W 80Plus-Gold PSU w/ 5 year warranty for $70? Or did you mean $140ea? If so I wouldn't say paying $20 more for higher quality with higher efficiency and warranty is a waste of money.
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Proofer (OP)
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December 01, 2011, 05:21:02 PM |
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Proofer, $300 for a power supply way overboard. Why would you spend $300 on one 1200w power supply when you can by 2 700w for $120-$140?
IMHO, this is just wasting money.
Hmm, this sent me to Amazon; there I find that the equivalent 750W unit is $174. And I don't have to have a second PSU hanging off my open case nor worry about hooking them together ("uh, electrons are the yellow ones, right?").
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plastic.elastic
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December 02, 2011, 06:08:45 AM |
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I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
Please for the love of PSUs, forget the brandname you see on on the box. What matters is the OEM of these PSUs. So do your due diligence and search.
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Inaba
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December 02, 2011, 01:52:22 PM |
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I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
Please for the love of PSUs, forget the brandname you see on on the box. What matters is the OEM of these PSUs. So do your due diligence and search. How does my comment, in any way, indicate that I am basing my experience off of a brand name: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=177Did you ever consider that perhaps I *might* actually know what I'm talking about in the technical realm? How, exactly, would you have me identify an Antec 1200w PSU, if I don't use it's brand name? Should I just post a product number instead, because, you know, that'll make things clear. Additionally, I was posting my experience between the two PSU's that I have, so again, should I just not identify which PSU that I have and am actively using as being superior, making the post completely useless?
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If you're searching these lines for a point, you've probably missed it. There was never anything there in the first place.
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plastic.elastic
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December 02, 2011, 08:22:00 PM |
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I have one of these and it's probably the best or 2nd best 1200w I have. You won't go wrong with that PSU... rock solid. Only the Antec might be better, but it's a close call either way.
Please for the love of PSUs, forget the brandname you see on on the box. What matters is the OEM of these PSUs. So do your due diligence and search. How does my comment, in any way, indicate that I am basing my experience off of a brand name: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=177Did you ever consider that perhaps I *might* actually know what I'm talking about in the technical realm? How, exactly, would you have me identify an Antec 1200w PSU, if I don't use it's brand name? Should I just post a product number instead, because, you know, that'll make things clear. Additionally, I was posting my experience between the two PSU's that I have, so again, should I just not identify which PSU that I have and am actively using as being superior, making the post completely useless? Have you ever considered Antec might use different OEM during their production of a particular model? and yes your post is very vague. Antec makes tons of POS products, only some particular models are being produced by quality OEM. By the time someone read your post, they would think of different model.
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Inaba
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December 02, 2011, 09:12:44 PM |
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So again, I ask you, how would you have me identify a particular PSU without using the name? As for Antec using a different OEM for a particular product, yes I have considered that and rejected it on the grounds that it is unlikely at best and completely ridiculous at worst. Antec has/will/does change the model identifier if they change the OEM. There is always a chance that they would change this policy they have followed in the past, but it is unlikely.
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If you're searching these lines for a point, you've probably missed it. There was never anything there in the first place.
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Unacceptable
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December 03, 2011, 07:57:10 AM |
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"If you run into an asshole in the morning, you ran into an asshole. If you run into assholes all day long, you are the asshole." -Raylan Givens Got GOXXED ?? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KiqRpPiJAU&feature=youtu.be"An ASIC being late is perfectly normal, predictable, and legal..."Hashfast & BFL slogan
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kano
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December 03, 2011, 10:12:26 AM |
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Yeah it just connects the activation pins of the 2nd PSU to the mobo "PSU on pins" so the first one switches on the 2nd one also. Or you can just short the two pins on the 2nd PSU and switch it on/off manually But the important point about having 2 PSU is that they are both the same quality and both high quality. If you connect a high and low quality PSU you can use almost 2x the power necessary. In my case when I first tried it (it was late at night and I could only find an old cheap PSU lying around when I worked out I needed more power was the cause of the constant shutdowns) I was using over 700W to power 2 x 6950 + Motherboard. When I replaced the 2nd PSU with a better quality one, it dropped to 410W and has been ever since ... They're not very high quality but I'd be certain it would drop maybe up to as much as another 50W if I had high quality PSU's
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P4man
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December 03, 2011, 10:23:21 AM |
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As for Antec using a different OEM for a particular product, yes I have considered that and rejected it on the grounds that it is unlikely at best and completely ridiculous at worst. Antec has/will/does change the model identifier if they change the OEM. There is always a chance that they would change this policy they have followed in the past, but it is unlikely.
Not sure Im understandig you correctly, but all nearly PSU's are just rebranded OEM products. You can find the oem here: http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
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DeathAndTaxes
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Gerald Davis
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December 03, 2011, 02:48:06 PM Last edit: December 03, 2011, 03:22:29 PM by DeathAndTaxes |
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One thing to point out is since the OEM name is rarely known or connected to the product they have no problem making a PSU as well built or cheaply built as the brand wants them to. So 2 PSU from different brands but same OEM can have vastly different build quality, and regulation performance.
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Inaba
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December 03, 2011, 05:16:19 PM |
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My point was if Antec (or any reputable company except Netgear - which incidentally I don't consider reputable anyway) were to change OEM manufacturers, it is typically accompanied by a product model number change as well. At no time did I state or imply that companies don't change OEM manufacturers. Does this hold true 100% of the time? No, but typically in the high end enthusiast market, which the Antec 1200w is definitely in, this is the case simply because the target market will know/learn very fast that something has changed, for better or worse.
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If you're searching these lines for a point, you've probably missed it. There was never anything there in the first place.
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plastic.elastic
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December 03, 2011, 10:56:19 PM |
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So again, I ask you, how would you have me identify a particular PSU without using the name? As for Antec using a different OEM for a particular product, yes I have considered that and rejected it on the grounds that it is unlikely at best and completely ridiculous at worst. Antec has/will/does change the model identifier if they change the OEM. There is always a chance that they would change this policy they have followed in the past, but it is unlikely.
The True series has had different OEMs in the past without noticing or model revising. This makes your post completely invalid and moot. Maybe thro your mighty experience, you overlooked this. Keep arguing and i can care shitless.
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Inaba
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December 04, 2011, 01:06:36 AM |
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Prove it. Go on... lets see a link. Show me where Antec has changed OEM manufacturers but kept the same model number. I'll wait... Keep spewing your bullshit, I'm sure someone, somewhere is listening and giving a shit. But so far, I've yet to see a post from you that is anything but mindless drivel with absolutely nothing to back it up. And yet AGAIN... for the third or fourth time, I ask you how am I suppose to identify a PSU if I don't give the model number? Answer this one question. Why do you keep avoiding it? Because you know your statement is completely asinine and now you can't back out of it? That's my guess. Man up and admit you were being an idiot and we can move on. Keep arguing and i can care shitless. What does this even mean, anyway? Does being Eurotrash make you angry like your American White Trash counterparts or something?
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If you're searching these lines for a point, you've probably missed it. There was never anything there in the first place.
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