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Author Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive Bitmain Antminer C1 Setup [HD]  (Read 28885 times)
dogie (OP)
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January 03, 2015, 09:28:26 PM
 #61

But isnt that a waste of a hashing board power plug Smiley seems kind of silly to plug it into the hashing board power port then only have one power feed to that board seriously whos the genious at syscool that thought that one up.. Smiley

Previously you had to open up the case which was annoying as hell.


I pigged tailed mine in but seen another picture on another board here a guy plugging it into the periph port on the psu so when i get a few minutes today thats the route I am going to take rather than having it pigtailed into the pcie cable Smiley Thats 15 more watts that board can have.. That the pump draws.

Pump and fans are about 30W. Be careful about the wiring when plugging directly into the PSU as the pins may not be the same as PCI-E. Its worth looking up your PSU's manual.


if i put it right in the window it vent outside however the s3's exhaust blow into it and cause the temps to rise on the C1. Ugh need a bigger window haha. Gots to say all in all I think i would of been happier with the S5 for $100 more, the liquid cooling is a pain and when you figure in the fluid cost, if changed annually, well not sure I am real big on this liquid cooling.

I doubt you'll still be running a C1 after a year. You might be able to play around with the stands to get the radiator to stand up on one end. Preferably you'd want the tubes at the top, but more practically you're going to get them at the bottom.


Now the S5 looks nice sounds awesome but I give it a big thumbs down for the case design.Really it has no top!!! how long before my 4 yr old drops a hot wheels in there and shorts it out hahaha. Dust accumulation etc. They could atleast throw a mesh screen on it. Naturally i will be ordering a couple and will probably put a mesh on top. Not really digging the single fan either or the single heatsinks seems like they are cutting corners a bit to make more profit.

Yup, S5s are not as kid friendly as S3s. The main driver is weight, shipping less metal around the world means lower delivery prices.


Keep up the great work Dogie I always come to your guides when i get new hardware. They should hire you to write there manuals, and why cant they spend $.20 and print one out and ship it haha antminer irks me about that. I guess that .20 x 1 millon units ads up I get it all in the name of profits, but come on what happend to quality concerns customer service and such. I know I know China haha.

Thanks. I do rewrite the manuals into English but I don't have much control as to their content. Yeah that's a hell of a lot of paper, although for something like the S5 it should be plug and play. PSU in, ethernet in, find IP.

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January 05, 2015, 06:43:18 AM
 #62

i have my radiator in the window with it cracked open a lil, there is snow on the ground.... and yet i get these temps..
i have a 1000 w evga g1 psu powering it.
Chain#   ASIC#   Frequency   Temp   ASIC status
1
16
250
65
oooooooo oooooooo
2
16
250
77
oooooooo oooooooo
3
16
250
66
oooooooo oooooooo
4
16
250
77
oooooooo oooooooo

the #'s before the oooooo are the temps.. something seems really wrong here. i filled it with some chillblast code blood coolant or something like that, do i need something different?Huh in the summer its gonna be hot as *&%*&
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January 05, 2015, 01:09:15 PM
 #63

i have my radiator in the window with it cracked open a lil, there is snow on the ground.... and yet i get these temps..
i have a 1000 w evga g1 psu powering it.
the #'s before the oooooo are the temps.. something seems really wrong here. i filled it with some chillblast code blood coolant or something like that, do i need something different?Huh in the summer its gonna be hot as *&%*&

Coolant wont make a difference, are you sure your pump is running? To where and how is it plugged in?

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January 05, 2015, 06:32:25 PM
 #64

it pulls liquid in,and the configuration seems to be the same as in your videos
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January 05, 2015, 07:06:19 PM
 #65

it pulls liquid in,and the configuration seems to be the same as in your videos

Can you take some pictures for me please?

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January 05, 2015, 07:18:40 PM
Last edit: January 05, 2015, 08:46:31 PM by fahq420
 #66

i don't have a camera but i triple checked the picture u posted with the tubes and thats what mine looks like. apparently there was a loop in my tube? i moved them around and the liquid started flowing.. and i had to put a little more in the reservoir. but now its all in the 40's. i'll post again if things go bad again (hopefully its nothing serious again)

it has now been over an hour and the temps are UNDER 40 so all is well, i guess i just need to make sure of certain things before i start freakin Cheesy
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January 06, 2015, 01:41:51 AM
 #67

i don't have a camera but i triple checked the picture u posted with the tubes and thats what mine looks like. apparently there was a loop in my tube? i moved them around and the liquid started flowing.. and i had to put a little more in the reservoir. but now its all in the 40's. i'll post again if things go bad again (hopefully its nothing serious again)

it has now been over an hour and the temps are UNDER 40 so all is well, i guess i just need to make sure of certain things before i start freakin Cheesy

Glad to hear it. You can buy some anti kink springs online if you think its liable to happen again.

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January 07, 2015, 08:27:35 PM
 #68

So after going to war with Bitmain and SysCooling, went with a Darkside LP360 radiator.

Thing is, no barbs came with it and SysCooling's radiator have built in barbs; SC radiator lasted about 6 days; so I have a dilemma.

That said, my question is simple...

I am missing one barb to complete the system and was wondering is it was possible to leave the return-to-res hoses hanging in the reservoir instead of tied held by a barb.

In other words, I want to omit the barb fitting where there is no need for water tightness. (In my mind there isn't a need)

Here's what I intend to do...

Look at this reservoir from Swiftec: http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35xreservoir.aspx

As you see, there are 2 holes for barbs on the sidewall, one on about 3/4 way up and one about an inch below it.

Basically, I can fill up the reservoir up until the point about 1 cm below where the top barb on the sidewall is.

Technically, it's just a missing barb but the part would not be submerged in liquid at all.

As a temp solution of course, a barb is on it's way but Canada's a big fucking country will take time to get here.

My main concern is damage to the pump and existing system components whilst running with a missing a component.

My miner's been offline for a week now, I wanna put that sucker back online now I got a DECENT RADIATOR!

Lastly, unreal how crappy SysCooling is, the only thing worth a crap in that kit is the harness, fans and the 1 spare barb lol

I'll try it now just for shits and giggles and will update... surely liquid cooled miners won't go out of style.

PS: My hoses have turned red from being beside my red PSU cables  Undecided  Grin

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January 07, 2015, 09:07:02 PM
 #69

So after going to war with Bitmain and SysCooling, went with a Darkside LP360 radiator.

Thing is, no barbs came with it and SysCooling's radiator have built in barbs; SC radiator lasted about 6 days; so I have a dilemma.

That said, my question is simple...

I am missing one barb to complete the system and was wondering is it was possible to leave the return-to-res hoses hanging in the reservoir instead of tied held by a barb.

In other words, I want to omit the barb fitting where there is no need for water tightness. (In my mind there isn't a need)

Here's what I intend to do...

Look at this reservoir from Swiftec: http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35xreservoir.aspx

As you see, there are 2 holes for barbs on the sidewall, one on about 3/4 way up and one about an inch below it.

Basically, I can fill up the reservoir up until the point about 1 cm below where the top barb on the sidewall is.

Technically, it's just a missing barb but the part would not be submerged in liquid at all.

As a temp solution of course, a barb is on it's way but Canada's a big fucking country will take time to get here.

My main concern is damage to the pump and existing system components whilst running with a missing a component.

My miner's been offline for a week now, I wanna put that sucker back online now I got a DECENT RADIATOR!

Lastly, unreal how crappy SysCooling is, the only thing worth a crap in that kit is the harness, fans and the 1 spare barb lol

I'll try it now just for shits and giggles and will update... surely liquid cooled miners won't go out of style.

PS: My hoses have turned red from being beside my red PSU cables  Undecided  Grin

So I got my temp solution... works best when I use the top port since the side port causes too much splash...

Works like a charm and the 3 additional fans on a radiators makes everything a lot cooler.

Swiftec MCP50x + res + Darkside LP360 + 6 fans = Sheer bliss

..Stake.com..   ▄████████████████████████████████████▄
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January 07, 2015, 09:47:28 PM
 #70

I am missing one barb to complete the system and was wondering is it was possible to leave the return-to-res hoses hanging in the reservoir instead of tied held by a barb.

In other words, I want to omit the barb fitting where there is no need for water tightness. (In my mind there isn't a need)

Your proposed solution is fine as long as you're comfortable with the risks of leaks or things getting knocked over. Without a barb, the returning fluid will impart some force on the radiator.

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January 08, 2015, 06:22:14 PM
 #71

I am missing one barb to complete the system and was wondering is it was possible to leave the return-to-res hoses hanging in the reservoir instead of tied held by a barb.

In other words, I want to omit the barb fitting where there is no need for water tightness. (In my mind there isn't a need)

Your proposed solution is fine as long as you're comfortable with the risks of leaks or things getting knocked over. Without a barb, the returning fluid will impart some force on the radiator.

As the system heats up, doesn't it get under pressure?  So won't this "leak" or just flow out unless you have a very large reservoir and lots of air in that reservoir?
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January 08, 2015, 06:54:09 PM
 #72

I am missing one barb to complete the system and was wondering is it was possible to leave the return-to-res hoses hanging in the reservoir instead of tied held by a barb.

In other words, I want to omit the barb fitting where there is no need for water tightness. (In my mind there isn't a need)

Your proposed solution is fine as long as you're comfortable with the risks of leaks or things getting knocked over. Without a barb, the returning fluid will impart some force on the radiator.

As the system heats up, doesn't it get under pressure?  So won't this "leak" or just flow out unless you have a very large reservoir and lots of air in that reservoir?

His solution is better than an enclosed one for 'too much pressure', so that's not a problem. Typically the acrylic tubing is sufficient to balance any changes, and the air in the reservoir can be compressed.

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January 09, 2015, 10:30:06 PM
 #73

check out this coolant system hahaha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_gCnvsM-QY
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February 08, 2015, 12:11:07 AM
 #74

I know it seems that you and Bitmain have had some sort of falling out....but your guide was so much help when I got my first C1...new from BM.
Bought another recently from an eBay seller. Well packed and setup, once I got through moving the red wire in pump/fans harness so it got 12 volts instead of 3 volts, I found I couldn't reset it. Lucky I found the router had assigned it 192.168.1.59.....that got me to log in, but root/root doesn't work.

First, why am I not getting a reset? Next do you think the 192.168.1.59 is really its ip and not just what my router assigning it? I set my first one to 192.168.1.200 as a "fixed ip", no telling what it would show if it was just plugged into another router. There again, I got to the login screen with the 192.168.1.59.

I've emailed the seller for login but I'd really rather reset. Conflicting info between Bitmain manual and your guide about resets and can't find much more on it.
Thank you in advance.

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February 08, 2015, 12:36:05 AM
 #75

that got me to log in, but root/root doesn't work.

Try root/admin
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February 08, 2015, 12:47:07 AM
 #76

not where the miner is right now but I will try it when I'm able.....is that the default on some?

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February 08, 2015, 01:53:52 AM
 #77

I know it seems that you and Bitmain have had some sort of falling out....but your guide was so much help when I got my first C1...new from BM.

No falling out, just some of the older products were contracted for a shorter time. I'm still in antminer threads for the S4 and U3 as required.

Bought another recently from an eBay seller. Well packed and setup, once I got through moving the red wire in pump/fans harness so it got 12 volts instead of 3 volts, I found I couldn't reset it. Lucky I found the router had assigned it 192.168.1.59.....that got me to log in, but root/root doesn't work.

not where the miner is right now but I will try it when I'm able.....is that the default on some?

Should be root/root as default, you'll have to wait for him for a reply if you want to login.

First, why am I not getting a reset? Next do you think the 192.168.1.59 is really its ip and not just what my router assigning it? I set my first one to 192.168.1.200 as a "fixed ip", no telling what it would show if it was just plugged into another router. There again, I got to the login screen with the 192.168.1.59.

I've emailed the seller for login but I'd really rather reset. Conflicting info between Bitmain manual and your guide about resets and can't find much more on it.
Thank you in advance.

This is the first I've heard about reset problems in C1 firmware. You should just need to hold down the reset button on the controller for ~10 seconds until you see the lights flashing. I don't remember the specific pattern but you'll know when its done.

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February 08, 2015, 03:10:29 AM
 #78

Thank you for your response.
Bitmain manual says "red" light flash....only ones I see are through the cutouts for the power connectors and on the blades or does the Ethernet connection lights flash red?

I can usually work my way through these kinds of things.

Had to move one of the pcb pins from the 3 volt to the 12 volt position on the pump/fan connector at the psu plug. guess the position is different on this ev3a 1000 G2 psu I bought .

update- thankfully heard from the seller, confirmed that was his ip address and he forwarded his user and pass.

I'll finish tomorrow morning.
I love these miners, so quiet. I really think folks with high temps didn't bleed the air out completely. my temps are always in mid 30's to 41 C.



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March 04, 2015, 06:37:54 PM
 #79

Heya, I have an odd situation, had my C1 for months now, since around December working great. Today all of a sudden I get no "X"s across the board, all "0"s but at default Frequency I am only getting average 500gh/s avg. where as before I was always getting over 900gh/s. Any ideas?
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March 06, 2015, 05:41:09 AM
 #80

Heya, I have an odd situation, had my C1 for months now, since around December working great. Today all of a sudden I get no "X"s across the board, all "0"s but at default Frequency I am only getting average 500gh/s avg. where as before I was always getting over 900gh/s. Any ideas?

Can you upload a screemshot of the status page please?

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