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interested in the bitfury gear if the price is reasonable.
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I have an antminer s3/s3+ and an antminer s3 that has been upgraded from an s1 but don't have the adapter board for the s1 controller. I have swapped an s3 controller onto the upgraded s1 miner and it hashes fine. I run them slightly underclocked so I can run them next to my s5 but they will run at stock speeds. Slimming down my electric bill due to running a/c in my house. I am looking to trade for some usb miners. I will accept block erupters, antminer u1/u2, or any nanofury/red fury variant. Bi Fury and Hex fury is welcome as well. I'm looking to deal in the USA only and trade includes shipping (no charge) so keep that in mind with your offers.    |
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I do not think it can be done.
the chips are 1382 or s-3 chips. no one has made the s-3 hash at 0.48watts a gh. some good people have lowered the s-3 to .6 watts a gh which is 600 watts for 1th.
I do not think you will get the s-4 much under 580 watts for 1th.
Exactly this. Best I have gotten was 300 gh @ 170 watts and after a few days it starts to drop chips, so basically every few days I have to restart it. |
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A high-power part would limit flexibility in design by reducing modularity/granularity (you'd never see a TO220 effectively used on a USB stick) and, like existing high-current BGA designs, could increase the complexity and decrease the efficiency of regulator designs. I do agree wholeheartedly that "using any package with multiple tens or even over hundred pads is completely pointless" and makes every part of the process more difficult. What's an effective minimum number of pins for a mining ASIC using SPI with an internal PLL? Vcore and PGND, VDD_IO and SGND, and four for IO?
I have hated BGA since all this BS with the xbox and ps3 systems. Hell laptops and video cards have the same issue but not as bad as the game consoles have had. I am surprised not many issues have popped up so far with the fact some of these mining machines using BGA run 24/7 for weeks on end and get pretty warm. But then again hardware usually gets less and less efficient every month and usually is squeezed out about 6 months after unless you mod/tune it. But there are people like me and mine till she blows or buys a new toy. |
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Any updates, more specs or pictures?
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Looking forward to it, Do i spy an led in the top corner?
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We have 3*120mm fans.
Yea, saw that after the post... I need to learn to read better  |
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Probably would help sales alot if you get review units out in the wild. Do they run off of 5v or 12v? I only ask because i see 4 pcie ports on the usb hub. Also whats the plan with the hub? Looks to me you could place some motherboard stand offs/risers on the bottom and use 3 120/140mm fans to blow cool air up past the sticks.
Either way they look pretty cool and will probably buy a few once they are better known. I like to collect cool miners.
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As the title states I'm looking for the s1 to s3 adapter board or just the s3 controller. I don't need the s1 controller or s1 cables for the upgrade board, just need a the s3 controller part and the s3 cables. I'd prefer US due to shipping cost.
Can pay with BTC or PP and payemt options depends on your trust. pm me your offer.
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If you ever offer compac pcb's & solder paste stencil for diy hobbyist/enthusiast/bored people count me in for sure. I NEED to do something with my dead s5 boards.
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How much you're willing to pay for S3 controller board?
pm'd |
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Actually, building took a lot longer than it should have. When we have a good stencil system for solder paste and a precise machine for rapid and repeatable placement of parts, most of the issues I ran into with mine will be gone. I have a V0.3 stencil that's about 95% right for the V0.4 PCB (the big cap and maybe two other things were changed) but the jerryrigged block and my crappy home-made squeegee aren't really good enough for a production environment, which leads to problems like the reset cap not being connected (on at least two sticks of nine) and gates on low-side FETs not being connected (on two sticks of nine). The BM1384 appears to have some sort of failsafe shunt in it that keeps Vcore in the neighborhood of 1V, because when the low side gates were left floating on a couple sticks (whoops solder paste) the output voltages on the buck were 930mV and 1120mV on 'em until I pulled the ASICs, at which point it rapidly drifted to out of range on the scope (but presumably 5V, I didn't bother checking where it actually went). That's kinda nice, because I reckon it means these chips might survive even a severe overvolt from a shorted node in a string depending on how things jump around. Or it could have just been a fluke and the relatively low current provided by the buck didn't cause them to push any higher. But yeah, it should not have taken me two days to get nine working sticks assembled.
Those are not U2 heatsinks but they are about the same size. I think the LEDs are pretty sexy and it's really nice watching them dance when they're all lined up like that. I'll change it up a bit on the Amita though, show you something different. Also yes the picture was taken exactly as number 8 found a share, hence the different color of the blink.
Oh I know its not easy hand placing them small components (especially 603/402). Stare at it long enough while placing them you'd swear you were cross-eyed. I like the leds, love watching my antminer usb's dancing around as i fall asleep. Still looking for red fury's, saw a video on youtube and decided I have to get a few if/when they pop up. Been keeping myself busy for now getting an s2 blade running on a s1 control board. Next project is s3 blades on a s1 chassis with out the controller adapter. |
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No, that was just the four sticks at 150MHz. Looks like the Pi reset itself sometime, because when I came in this morning my terminals were logged out but the hardware was up and running. Restarted cgminer and I've been working on figuring out problem sticks all morning.
The one that was drawing too much power, I swapped the chip and now it's working fine (starts at 150MHz at 615mV like it should, instead of 660). The other one that wasn't lighting up at all, well I swapped its chip and reseated a couple times and finally gave up and stole its parts to make a new stick. And then that one didn't work either. And then I realized the reset wasn't connected on the first board and I guaran-darn-tee it that was the problem. It's only about the third time I haven't noticed exactly that problem before. So now I have two sticks which almost work and hopefully they'll be functional within the hour. That'll actually give me 10 sticks since I have two prototypes still, which I can run at 200MHz and bust out 110GH off what, 45W with a fan? It's cool, I know you're jealous.
yeah I am jealous. more of your abilities building them then running them. But I am also a bit jealous of that. Yea, I'd love to build/design some too. Building isn't that hard, its kind of like a model car (testing /working/debug is the tricky part) I have messed around in pcb design programs but never too serious with it, more breadboard type stuff. Edit: Are those antminer u2 heat sinks? The leds look about as bright as the og B.E.'s |
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yea its not a big issue, post a pic and we can get ya hashing again!
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Hi
I need help ,to setup home rig
my goal is 15TH/s, the power is free , but each s5 cost 480 $ with delivery
do u think should i start or not ?
and am i mine in a pool or solo , could it be profitable ?
How long it takes for ROI
Thank You
You can pretty much buy 5 antminer s3's for this price. If power isn't an issue (free) you will end up with 2250 Gh/s (1800-1900 watts) so in turn you will roi faster. Also you can underclock/undervolt them and get 1500 Gh/s @ ~800-950 watts. I wouldn't ever do cloud because in the end poof its done and gone where as if you had hardware you could resell it or if the price rises you can turn them back on. |
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im interested depending on price
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were these the ones that were on ebay about a week or so ago?
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