At 2W/GH you realize how big your electricity bill will be right?

What is the cost kWh in the location you are settings up?

278 S1 Ants x 180GH x 2W = 100,080W

Standard home user rate of 15c kWh = 100kW x 24hrs x $0.15 = $360 per day or $10,800 per month.

Buying the 1W/GH S2 would probably pay for itself pretty quickly with half the power cost and it will be a lot easier to deal with half the heat.

Location: Hong Kong Client: ASICMiner Completion: Oct 2013
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZavKweMrP4
Text: http://spectrum.ieee.org/computing/it/is-there-a-liquid-fix-for-the-clouds-heavy-energy-footprint



Because it runs more efficiently, uses less power, and therefor generates less heat.

Ultimately Bitcoin mining is about power efficiency, you switch off a miner when it no longer covers the power cost with what it mines.

Essentially the Antminer S2 1TH is the same chip as the Antminer S1 180GH just underclocked from 2W/GH to 1W/GH by throwing more chips into it.

The network cable is not plugged in so it's more than an LCD blacklight issue.

If you have Wifi and LAN you would have two IP addresses for two different interfaces, make sure they are not both on the same IP.
Make sure your wifi password and encryption settings are correct. If the Ant is on WEP and the router is on WPA/PSK they wont talk to each other.
Make sure to click "save and apply" when you make changes and not just "save" which won't take effect until you reboot.

If their production cost per 28nm chip is the same as the A1 it means they'll have a $/GH advantage.

BA will use 75% less chips to create a miner with the same GH as an A1 based miner.

I dunno what everyone is moaning about. Is that 125GH from one chip for 150W?
Compared to the A1 25GH chips that's very good!   Maybe it can be underclocked to get 100GH for 1GH/W?
A:3840 HW:32 = 0.83% Errors which is acceptable but would need to see a longer run.

Try underclocking them to 230/860 and run cgminer v4.2.3 and see if you can replicate Ioshas results on BTCGuild!
Apparently we all get the same boards and chips are random but that should get you pretty close to 1GH/W. You can run quieter fans then too.

The answer is to mine in Iceland, cheap environmental friendly geothermal energy, and it's cold outside. Everyone is colocating there!

The heat problem is related to GH/W so instead of just selling space per U, you need to add per Watt into your price equation.

A 2U 2kWh miner needs to be paying twice and much as a 2U 1kWh miner to encourage underclocking and more efficient equipment replacement.

I would try attaching a PC fan to the 5v molex line or connecting a hard drive/cd-rom drive to the psu.

Some power supplies need you to run something on the 5v power line before they will run right.

I had a similar problem, miner would run for a couple of minutes, then trigger the PSU safety off.

I've have a Technobit 42GH Hex16B miner running stock volt/clocks since Dec 2013. 1.5W/GH still profitable to run.
Most problems come from overclocking and undercooling, and when the time comes it's uneconomical, I'll software underclock them to 25GH 1W/GH.

The Ant S1 can be underclocked with a pencil mod which can keep it economically for some time. I think I read 140GH 1.3W/GH?
You'll probably make back the 0.55BTC it costs, I don't think there is anything cheaper $/GH.

I would like to return one on my TP-Link MR3020 back to it's original software, so it can act as a wifi point for the other one mining, anyone got a guide?

I found this on the internet.. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/tp-link/tl-mr3020#restoring.original.firmware

but the link to the stripped boot file http://q.gs/6giYF is dead.

Anyone got a copy of this file? or... I guess I'm most stuck on how to transfer the file from the web to the /tmp directory to strip it from there with..


there seems to be no FTP or SFTP?

Thanks.

UPDATE: SOLVED IT!

Ok here's my step by step guide to restoring the TP-Link MR3020 to factory state..

Download PuTTY http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html
Download WinSCP http://winscp.net/download/winscp553.zip
Download the TP-Link firmware from http://www.tplink.com/en/support/download/?model=TL-MR3020&version=V1
Rename the firmware file "orig.bin".
Use WinSCP to copy the file to the TP-Link and drag it into the /etc directory (don't forget to select SCP protocol when logging in or it fails)
Use PuTTY to SSH into your TP-Link running OpenWRT and then type:
Give it a few minutes to install and reboot.
When it's done you should find it on 192.168.0.254 (admin/admin) running the official TP-Link software again.
Yay!

NOW... HOW TO GIVE YOUR TP-LINK MINER WIFI USING A SECOND TP-LINK

Sadly WIFI is disabled in Technobits OpenWRT GCMiner firmware to free up more memory, but you can fix this by using a second TP-Link!

Flick the switch on the side of a standard TP-Link, to the WISP setting.
Connect it to your PC via the network cable.
Log into it through a web browser 192.168.0.254 admin/admin
(If you already have a router on this IP you might need to turn Wifi off on the laptop)
Click "Quick Setup"
then "Next"
then "Dynamic IP" *
then "YES, I need to clone MAC address"
then select your wifi router and enter the security details (click Survey if no WIFI router list shown)
Reboot and it's done!
Unplug from the PC and connect the network cable to your TP-Link Miner and you now have a miner you can locate anywhere in your home!

* DHCP client in Technobit v0.3.2. If you're using static IP instead on an older version you will need to change IP manually. I'm pretty sure it creates a second subnet and bridges it over WIFI something like this... (Notice how the home network was 192.168.0.x but the miner is now on 192.168.1.x)

Internet
|
Home Router 192.168.0.254 - Laptop Wifi 192.168.0.1 (Gateway 192.168.0.254)
|
192.168.0.2
TP-Link Wifi (Gateway 192.168.0.254)
192.168.1.254
|
TP-Link Miner 192.168.1.1 (Gateway 192.168.1.254)

Only Bitmain S1 really 0.54BTC for 180GH. It's 2W/GH though but you can mod it to use less power if you sacrifice some GH.

It's called 2 factor authentication.

Something you know =  password
Something you have = your mobile phone / crypto card / (bio info too, finger print, eyeball, face, but I'm not down with that shit!)

If you do not EXCLUSIVELY own the private key you do not EXCLUSIVELY own the wallet!

Make your wallet and keys with the official client software only and set a wallet password!

Bitcoin: https://bitcoin.org/en/choose-your-wallet

Litecoin: https://litecoin.org/

You cannot trust third parties with your wealth, what you did is like asking a stranger in the street to hold your wallet for you!  

You won't be able to dissipate 450W of heat in a tiny router sized box like this guys..



.. or with a heatsink and fan this size, WTF!  

Wow, don't even try switching that on, what a mess, there's no heatsinks on the chips either!
Maybe dropped by the courier? If the shipping box was damaged get pictures and don't throw it away.
If the box show no sign of drop damage the courier will probably refuse to pay for it.
You should refuse a damaged boxed item or at least sign for it as "damaged".

Nice man caves.

The angle of your solar panels should be between 35 degrees (summer bias) to 45 degrees (winter bias).

There's only one commandment... If you don't exclusively own the private keys, you don't own the Bitcoins!

Cash in your wallet = you own it.
Cash in a bank = you loaned it to the bank (you're a creditor)

Gold in your safe = you own it.
Gold in the bank's safe = you loaned it to the bank (you're a creditor)

Bitcoin in a local wallet only you have the private keys to = you own it.
Bitcoin in an online wallet of a third party site = you loaned it to the third party (you're a creditor)

Nice review, happy to see it coming with the Sunon 2000rpm fan.

I've had both 2000rpm and 4500rpm fans on my Hex16B's and the noise on the 4500rpm one in unbearable and complete overkill for cooling.

Bitfury are the best chips, just a shame they didn't go to 40nm. Kinda lost most of it's competitive edge over Avalon.

I'd be interested in longer boards with more chips on and PCI-E power. I've yet to find anyone who sells packs of molex cables for modular PSUs.

As it was originally M.T.G.O.X. = Magic The Gathering Online eXchange  

So saying M.T./eM-Tee is probably more accurate than saying Mt./Mount