Just to quickly answer a few questions:
I The idea is that once your data is written to the NFC chip inside, you lock it permanently, and then to redeem the data inside you must break the device open to obtain the main password to decrypting the device NFC chips which is kept on the inside.
I understand most of this but one aspect is a bit fuzzy to me. it must be broken to redeem. the password to decrypt the NFC data is etched inside in some fashion? on something that is not destroyed by breaking the glass but not visible or scannable (say by a CT scanner)? just how unbreakable is it. I mean I can swing a hammer really hard  could one break it "too hard" to the point the password is not recoverable? or the NFC chip is broken? or do you read the chip data before breaking it? perhaps (brief) instructions should be somehow visible when looking at the thing by eye? 30 years from now it may not be easy to figure out what this is if a decedent of mine finds it with no instructions. |
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Im really liking this. no one will casually toss it out when going through ones estate.
reminds be of the data storage crystals from babylon 5.
a question, and probably a stupid one at that. its one time use and user programmable (right?) and one is not able to check the key without destroying it. so when programming it is there a checksum or md5 or whatever to verify it took the key? sure would suck to transfer a fortune to it and have it wrong.
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just to get this straight..
ALL bitcoint-qt versions have this bug, correct?
how does this bug get triggered? just by having the client running?
or do you need to click a payment link (or something external to the client).. in other words just initiating a transfer via copy/pasteing an address was safe?
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as falconfly said, keep the entire card well cooled and it should go years. use a good PSU (seasonic, PC power and cooling, antec etc). use filtered air if possible.
I have 2 nvidia GTX 285's that have been doing folding@home pretty much 24/7 since 2009. I did add arctic cooling accelero xtremes HSFs (3 92mm fans each) about a year in just for noises sake though.
my 5830 has been going since 2011 non stop with BTC back in the day, now scrypt coins. its stock. same for my 6870 although that got an artic cooling HSF too as thats in my daily driver rig an needs to be quiet.
all are overclocked and have been (sometimes - depends on the season and coin prices, or, with F@H, if there was a chimp challenge or other competition going on) overvolted to one degree or another.
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You know something Bickski? Your problem is that you don't know anything about engineering or you wouldn't be saying this. Engineering has nothing to do with it, as this is a chip issue. no, its a BFL issue. what other mining hardeware out there need to do this? |
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I would be more interested in the APC battery backups than the BFL and asicmine stuff. love the smoke detector. thats smart although it would respond quicker if it were above it all and towards the rear of all that airflow. |
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Also, this is the "Pictures of your mining rigs!" topic, not the "Pictures of your bitcoin mining rigs!".
This is a 'bitcoin' section of the forum, for bitcoin mining hardware. GPUs are no longer viable for profiting with BTC, so you are either stupid wasting money on power for your rig, OR you are mining altcoins. get over it. these used to mine bitcoin, and already people are having a big-enough hissy fit over it to create a 'no-scrypt mining rig' thread for people like you IMHO: that other thread is stupid. I like seeing GPU rigs regardless of what they mine. they are creative, home-made, and often finely tuned. The pictures of ASICs are just a shiny box in the corner or a half-filled USB hub (which is almost just as big a waste of money as mining bitcoins on a GPU) wrong on the ASIC being just shiny boxes. have you seen some of the ASIC setups? clean wiring, creative cooling, modified ASICs etc and the computer that currently runs my ASIC setup also mines LTC with a 5830 that used to mine BTC back in the day. so it would fall under both categories.. |
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Yeah, I ran the numbers on Thursday... our RMA rate is 1.27% or thereabouts. 50% of that is like the picture above. So the real failure rate is somewhere under 1% of delivered units.
Josh, do you honestly believe anyone actually believes any words you say?? that said some of what is posted here is BS. anyhow, here is my fail rate: 1 SC25 running stock firmware @ 31 ghs (thanks bfl) would go "zombie" repeatedly and get restarted in the 2 days I actually ran it on the stock PSU. normally runs flawlessly on the computer PSUs, was an an antec 500, now a seasonic 750. had it a month. 1 jally 5 ghs flashed to 8.2 ghs. PSU failed after 6 months. runs on the seasonic now. bfl single was fine the year I ran it. so: 33% fail on the PSUs (50% for the SC series PSU), more if you count flaky operation on the SC25 PSU. |
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Right. Also remember that with FETs the loads are not spread symmetrically. The ones I have sinks on tend to be hotter on 4 chip diamond designs, the other FETs really don't get very warm because they are not carrying too much of the load.
...
That little heat sink on the center chip is there for the FET gate driver control; it's a high frequency chip that is driving the gates directly for all FETs.
ah shiny. I was worried they changed it; apparently not. with the hot mosfet units Josh recommended heatsinking the 1850 anyway as its runs hotter in that design. when I flashed it to 8.2 I just put a ubar fan on it and called it a day. been 6 months so its worked heh. Ill order a hot air rework station, some heatsinks, and some chips and start practicing then. |
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hmm. this image does not bode well for upgrading my jally. my board is different(?). there are 6 MOSFETS under the 2 bigger copper heatsinks shown on the above image (not two as quoted above) on mine. and 6 more along another side. mine is a very early jally, board says BitFORCE SC rev C. |
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how do you preheat the bottom of the board?
If you don't want to buy a specialized pre heater, an electric skillet works great. Something that can get up to 400F. Make sure it's not placed directly on it, prop it up on some screws or what ever you deem suitable. It may not be necessary but it has given me nothing but 100% success putting chips on. Good luck bud, and remember the flux. You want to preheat the board to prevent flexing cracking large temp differences that break things. Warping or breaking your board would probably ruin your day. thanks figured it wasnt rocket science. and low tech is my style when possible. my jally is a very early one with the "hot mosfets" buts its been running fine flashed to 8.2 ghz with a 120v 20 watt muffin fan on it for 6 months now. it doesnt owe me a thing at this point I guess. time to add some heatsinks to the mosfets and push it. |
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dont trust BFL. they will mislead you any way they can.
I have ordered from them 3 times now and eventually did get my hardware (and they are fairly well built aside from crap power supplies) but I never will order from them again.
current BFL hardware will never ROI. their future monarch will never ROI.
there are MUCH better manufacturers to get miners from.
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lightfoot maybe its in the thread but I missed it.. but.. how do you preheat the bottom of the board? I get the rework station on low air and a set temp for so long on the top of the chip but what do you use to preheat it? toaster oven ??  |
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On a side note, I think I see the issues with the singles; BFL really screwed with the firmware to try and keep them from blowing up. However with the later model heat sinks this is not so much a problem, however you can't just flash them. You need to also add some heat sinks and ensure the airflow is right.
I think I have it down pat here; is anyone interested in the details and such once I get it done? So far I have a 23gh single running at 28+ with no heat problems, but a number of temporary sinks.
yup, I would. my little single has the aluminum heat sink, no baffle, one 120 side fan plus the 92 on the heat sink. only 1/2 the long board is populated, the other side is pretty bare. one heatsink on the board aside from the main one for the ASICs.cant remember what its on, Ill have to take it apart again. runs at 64-68C @ 31 Ghs (its a SC25 with stock firmware, runs at 31 though). running off a seasonic 750 that also runs the PC and the jally hooked to it. |
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Poll is not specific. There are 2 kinds of ROI - 1) fiat ROI 2) BTC ROI
this. my 2nd day preorder jally made fiat ROI many times over but nowhere near BTC ROI. |
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What is the point of having a UPS, if your power is down, so is your internet access.
not true. people with DSL/EVDO (plus maybe satellite?) still have internet when the power goes out. my mining hardware itself is just on surge protectors, but the controlling computer has a UPS. I just prefer clean shutdowns for my rigs rather than just yanking the power out from under them. I use APC and cyberpower to keep my various boxes up. |
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Exhaustive research has proven that mining and marriage dont mix, its like oil and water really, even if you put it in a blender it just gets messy
Unless you have a basement, right? yup. miners in the basement works for the wife and I |
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there are DIY kits for horizontal loop systems, uses water (a safe type of antifreeze really) through pipes you bury 5 feet under yourself (with your handy backhoe). then the compressor and such get slotted into your (hopefully existing and well insulated) duct system. pretty cheap that way. otherwise.. heh..
mine has 2000 feet of pipe 5 feet down arranged as 4 x 250 runs in my back yard. thats for a 3.5 ton unit.
if you dont have lots of land they can run the loops straight down.
I had mine done by a geothermal company. I just watched. everything is energy star rated.. even the duct tape they used to seal the ducts.
worst part was the new duct system being installed as we previously had hot water baseboard heat and no AC. so all new ductwork and holes throughout the house were cut. our cats were not amused with that part.
in the USA we have a 30% tax credit on the entire system to sweeten the pot.
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I use geothermal to heat and cool my house. when its cooling the house some of the heat removed is sent to my hot water preheat tank (desuperheater system). then the main hot water tank is an air source heat pump that cools and dehumidifies my basement where my miners live.
the preheat tank can get to 135 F, which is higher than the 120 F normal setting of the real hot water tank. to get it to come on and cool the basement more I set the main tank to 140 and we take lots of long hot showers.
so basically miner heat is moved to where is usable; my hot water system. the rest goes out to the back yard.
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wallets add new addresses every so often. make sure you backup the working wallet as time goes on, as you may find you old backup wont have currently used addresses in it.
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