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Author Topic: I want to mine on my Oven' NEMA 14-50r  (Read 6719 times)
VirosaGITS (OP)
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February 26, 2016, 08:29:58 PM
Last edit: February 26, 2016, 09:10:35 PM by VirosaGITS
 #61

Hey guys!

I did use my oven plug to run some miners.
I ordered this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00BHGXYRC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Pretty good but Im a little bit sad since it give you 2x 120v plugs. I though it will be 240v but the cable seems to convert it to 120v.

You could also build one yourself for almost nothing.

Just get a NEMA 14-50 male plug, and 1 or 2 nema 15-5r + some good cable. (12gauge minimum in my opinion)

Let me know if it work  Grin

Im changing place soon so if you want my cable I could ship it to you.  Wink

I got the full kit. Strip bars, 40A PDU, NEMA 14-50p. Total cost was 164$, bought 4 too many strip bars, total 8, and 10 C13 to C14 to plug the PSU's.
Finished minutes ago with one miner plugged;

Courtesy of Giant Value (lol)



And the inside of the yellow plug;
https://i.imgur.com/SOdlBfz.jpg


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philipma1957
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February 26, 2016, 09:14:39 PM
 #62

did you wire the plug correctly ?    the hot wires are good but I am not sure if you did the ground to the neutral.

now in my house the neutral bar and the ground bar are one in the same. 

Being in a different country then me and not having access to the main circuit box  have your friend check and be sure it is safe.

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 MΞTAWIN  THE FIRST WEB3 CASINO   
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.. PLAY NOW ..
VirosaGITS (OP)
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February 26, 2016, 09:16:40 PM
 #63

did you wire the plug correctly ?    the hot wires are good but I am not sure if you did the ground to the neutral.

now in my house the neutral bar and the ground bar are one in the same.  

Being in a different country then me and not having access to the main circuit box  have your friend check and be sure it is safe.

Online guides says to remove the neutral pin altogether, its not needed unless you need 120V AND 240V. And hes the one that did the plug. I checked every outlets on the strip and i get 241.5V~

Or are you saying you're worried the ground is in the neutral? The Ground is the cylindric shape ish one. The flat one is the Neutral which is unplugged.



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notlist3d
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February 26, 2016, 10:13:35 PM
 #64

Thanks for posting picture!  Glad it all worked out looks like pretty clean setup considering was oven's electrical.  I do love to see neat things in home mining, and you definitely did it with this!

Now you just need more miners to fill that spot Smiley

philipma1957
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February 26, 2016, 11:57:05 PM
 #65

did you wire the plug correctly ?    the hot wires are good but I am not sure if you did the ground to the neutral.

now in my house the neutral bar and the ground bar are one in the same.  

Being in a different country then me and not having access to the main circuit box  have your friend check and be sure it is safe.

Online guides says to remove the neutral pin altogether, its not needed unless you need 120V AND 240V. And hes the one that did the plug. I checked every outlets on the strip and i get 241.5V~

Or are you saying you're worried the ground is in the neutral? The Ground is the cylindric shape ish one. The flat one is the Neutral which is unplugged.



sounds good .  I got twisted in my head viewing the photo of the yellow plug

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.
 MΞTAWIN  THE FIRST WEB3 CASINO   
.
.. PLAY NOW ..
VirosaGITS (OP)
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February 27, 2016, 12:42:53 AM
 #66

sounds good .  I got twisted in my head viewing the photo of the yellow plug

Cheers. Now the only thing left to figure out is a not noisy extractor to run in a bedroom with only a single small window. I'm thinking maybe running some kind of quiet turbine to push air through some tubes affixed to something like this;



But maybe one in one out? Maybe one pull one push fan/turbine?

I'd set that up but vertically so the outtake is above the intake so that i dont aspire my own heat output. During summer i'll try to find a high performance window fan that fit, but during winter it might be a bit hard to justify. Either that or i see if the apartment complex has a vent i could shove all the heat into Tongue

Free heating for everyone!


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VirosaGITS (OP)
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March 17, 2016, 08:16:29 PM
 #67

Still kind of related to this. Once i've moved, i'm thinking of using the TwistLock male and get a Twistlock female, instead of installing a receptacle in the wall.

I have;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6272
The counterpart would be;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6278

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
https://www.amazon.ca/Conntek-CS6364-Generator-12500-watt-Generators/dp/B00DVE8XUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458245279&sr=8-1&keywords=CS6364C


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philipma1957
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March 18, 2016, 02:28:08 AM
 #68

Still kind of related to this. Once i've moved, i'm thinking of using the TwistLock male and get a Twistlock female, instead of installing a receptacle in the wall.

I have;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6272
The counterpart would be;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6278

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
https://www.amazon.ca/Conntek-CS6364-Generator-12500-watt-Generators/dp/B00DVE8XUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458245279&sr=8-1&keywords=CS6364C

it will be just fine.  make sure they are connected with quality wire.  i think 8 awg wire.

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.
 MΞTAWIN  THE FIRST WEB3 CASINO   
.
.. PLAY NOW ..
VirosaGITS (OP)
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March 18, 2016, 11:07:46 AM
 #69

Still kind of related to this. Once i've moved, i'm thinking of using the TwistLock male and get a Twistlock female, instead of installing a receptacle in the wall.

I have;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6272
The counterpart would be;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6278

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
https://www.amazon.ca/Conntek-CS6364-Generator-12500-watt-Generators/dp/B00DVE8XUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458245279&sr=8-1&keywords=CS6364C

it will be just fine.  make sure they are connected with quality wire.  i think 8 awg wire.

Thanks, i was thinking 6 AWG, would be code for up to 50A, if i ever decide to upgrade or something, the difference in price seem to be 10% up from 8 AWG.


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philipma1957
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March 18, 2016, 05:52:22 PM
 #70

Still kind of related to this. Once i've moved, i'm thinking of using the TwistLock male and get a Twistlock female, instead of installing a receptacle in the wall.

I have;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6272
The counterpart would be;
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6278

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
https://www.amazon.ca/Conntek-CS6364-Generator-12500-watt-Generators/dp/B00DVE8XUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458245279&sr=8-1&keywords=CS6364C

it will be just fine.  make sure they are connected with quality wire.  i think 8 awg wire.

Thanks, i was thinking 6 AWG, would be code for up to 50A, if i ever decide to upgrade or something, the difference in price seem to be 10% up from 8 AWG.

do the 6 awg and then be fully able to run the 50 amps.


found a chart

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm





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westom
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March 19, 2016, 06:29:04 AM
 #71

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
For human safety, wires inside walls must not move.  Therefore wire must be secured by an appropriate device where it exits a wall.
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March 19, 2016, 12:51:16 PM
 #72

Would there be any reason not to use this cheaper counterpart;
For human safety, wires inside walls must not move.  Therefore wire must be secured by an appropriate device where it exits a wall.


I would not run the cable inside the wall, i'd hang it by the ceiling. Why would it matter if there's a twist lock preventing the connection from being pulled live? As far as i understand thats how it would be set up in an industrial warehouse or a Datacenter?

Is the danger that the cable somehow get ripped off from the electric panel?


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westom
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March 20, 2016, 06:15:59 AM
 #73

Why would it matter if there's a twist lock preventing the connection from being pulled live? As far as i understand thats how it would be set up in an industrial warehouse or a Datacenter?
In a datacenter that must meet safety codes, a receptacle must be secured to the building.

You have described what is considered an extension cord.  Extension cords used in anything but temporary service are also considered a human safety risk.

Properly installed cables in a data center remain inside walls, underneath floors, or selected and secured in a manner that protects that cable from traffic or other movement.
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March 24, 2016, 12:26:29 PM
 #74

I think what people are saying is their are some rule in the electrical code to follow and have been established as a means to follow . Things have happened in the past and this is why these codes are now law. For your safety because it can happen see this photo of which was recent

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1402566.msg14275255#msg14275255
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March 24, 2016, 12:49:42 PM
 #75

I think what people are saying is their are some rule in the electrical code to follow and have been established as a means to follow . Things have happened in the past and this is why these codes are now law. For your safety because it can happen see this photo of which was recent

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1402566.msg14275255#msg14275255


If this happen, so be it, i'd be only be worried about burning down the block or such serious fire. Hardware is replaceable and i dont think it would happen in the first place if things are properly wired with twist lock plugs.
I'd be using a pro to install the wiring so even tho the wiring would be exposed, as it would be ran on the ceiling corners toward the server room, i dont see why it would be any more risk than if it was in the ceiling.

Law wise, what are the penalty for running such an exposed-ish cable from the breaker to the ceiling, to a room?
Tearing down the bathroom to run an 50A cable under the bath doesnt sound safer to me.


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March 24, 2016, 01:52:33 PM
 #76

  I'd be using a pro to install the wiring so even tho the wiring would be exposed, as it would be ran on the ceiling corners toward the server room, i dont see why it would be any more risk than if it was in the ceiling.
Nobody said the cable must be inside a wall or that a wall must be ripped open. Provided were some examples well defined by safety codes.  Wire must be installed to be protected - including from motion.  Cable can be routed on a wall's surface.  Hardware exists to do this - define by 100 years of science, experiment, and experience. How to install that wire is clearly defined by safety codes and standards.  Since your life is only secondary. Primary concern is for other's lives - including future guests, children, neighbors, and firemen.  That is why safety codes exist.
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March 24, 2016, 02:13:02 PM
Last edit: March 24, 2016, 02:32:15 PM by VirosaGITS
 #77

 I'd be using a pro to install the wiring so even tho the wiring would be exposed, as it would be ran on the ceiling corners toward the server room, i dont see why it would be any more risk than if it was in the ceiling.
Nobody said the cable must be inside a wall or that a wall must be ripped open. Provided were some examples well defined by safety codes.  Wire must be installed to be protected - including from motion.  Cable can be routed on a wall's surface.  Hardware exists to do this - define by 100 years of science, experiment, and experience. How to install that wire is clearly defined by safety codes and standards.  Since your life is only secondary. Primary concern is for other's lives - including future guests, children, neighbors, and firemen.  That is why safety codes exist.


Cool, so basically, exactly what i said. Thanks for pitching in with information i can actually use to make it happen. This isint going to help me achieve it.


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philipma1957
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March 24, 2016, 11:35:47 PM
 #78

 I'd be using a pro to install the wiring so even tho the wiring would be exposed, as it would be ran on the ceiling corners toward the server room, i dont see why it would be any more risk than if it was in the ceiling.
Nobody said the cable must be inside a wall or that a wall must be ripped open. Provided were some examples well defined by safety codes.  Wire must be installed to be protected - including from motion.  Cable can be routed on a wall's surface.  Hardware exists to do this - define by 100 years of science, experiment, and experience. How to install that wire is clearly defined by safety codes and standards.  Since your life is only secondary. Primary concern is for other's lives - including future guests, children, neighbors, and firemen.  That is why safety codes exist.


Cool, so basically, exactly what i said. Thanks for pitching in with information i can actually use to make it happen. This isint going to help me achieve it.

you can wall mount a conduit with the wire inside it

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings/N-5yc1vZbm4m

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September 17, 2016, 12:04:51 PM
 #79

Bump... are you still mining with your oven? Did you find a way to use the oven at the same time?
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September 17, 2016, 04:26:56 PM
 #80

Bump... are you still mining with your oven? Did you find a way to use the oven at the same time?

Hey, i did for a while, when i moved i had 2 breaker installed. I went for a temporary installation of metal sleeved cables so i can remove it cleanly when i leave(And it remain code). We changed the connectors to pen and sleeve. By far the safest connector, pulling wont disconnect, and they're rated way over usage.

I still have the oven plug, i might use it again.


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