Erupter Blade V2 issue - not powering on

[glorycoin]

Where to purchase a replacement fuse for version 2?  (The tiny, non-automotive fuse pictured in this thread.)

Blew my board's fuse and am using a small piece of conductive aluminum to bridge the open fuse socket for now, but would sleep better know I had a fuse in their instead.

Thanks

[sidehack]

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2410SFV8.00FM%2F125-2/2410SFV8.00FM%2F125CT-ND/2766071

Not sure how well the ends will meet with the socket contacts if you have a blue-board blade, but that's jerry-riggable.

[glorycoin]

Thanks, but that Digi-Key fuse breaks at 50 amps; isn't that far higher than the board could ever receive from the type of PC PSU's we're all using?

Will this fuse protect against current running in opposite polarity (+/ground reversed)?

[sidehack]

The fuse trips at 8A. Breaking capacity is the current the fuse can safely stop without exploding.

As for protecting against opposite polarity, not strictly no. Placing a forward-biased diode in series with the fuse would prevent against reverse polarity current. Also placing a reverse-biased diode in parallel with the fuse would trip the fuse quickly if it were plugged in backward, without having the power loss of a diode drop at 8A present during continuous use. These blades may already have protection like that implemented though.

[soy]

So here is the type of fuse I have:



And here it is on the board, does not look like it can be removed:

Interesting.  Saw a Blade photo on another thread and there was no reset header.  No removable fuse as well?

[sidehack]

Yeah they decided to go cheaper on the green-board V2 blades. The fuse is soldered, so no socket. No reset or test/debug headers, and it's only got one output cap on the bank VRMs instead of two. Stuff like that.

[ITGeniusGuru]

Thanks everyone for input and advice.
I blew my R-coded fuse by following instructions and looking at picture on a guide on another forum. Lesson learned: Look for the PLUS + and Negative - signs on the connector to see where the yellow and black wires should go, do not assume they go exactly as you see on a picture on the internet!!!
I knew my fuse was blown when i used a paperclip to jumper the 2 sides of the fuse and the board seemed to power-up.
Thanks for the advice to solder on a 10A auto fuse. I will try that next.

[J_Dubbs]

Yikes, hope this doesn't happen on any of mine. Seems like the old v2 design was better. What is the cause of the fuses blowing?

[ITGeniusGuru]

What is the cause of the fuses blowing?

Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
 Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.

[J_Dubbs]

What is the cause of the fuses blowing?

Reversing the yellow and black wires on the connector.
 Yellow should go where + is marked on the connector.
Black should go where - is marked on the connector.

Ok, I'm safe then, thanks!

[ITGeniusGuru]

Soldering a fuse to bypass the blown one is so messy (I am new at this). I do not know if now there's a new fuse between the 2 sides of the fuse assembly , or the 2 sides are just permanently jumpered together! The board powered-up though and I am now hashing happily!

[J_Dubbs]

Soldering a fuse to bypass the blown one is so messy (I am new at this). I do not know if now there's a new fuse between the 2 sides of the fuse assembly , or the 2 sides are just permanently jumpered together! The board powered-up though and I am now hashing happily!

So you did a repair? Can you post pics?

[ITGeniusGuru]

Hmmm... To post pictures, I'd have to reach to the shelf where the blade is sitting, unplug it, take pictures and then re-plug it. Lost revenue, too much work. There are a couple of pictures already posted showing the little red fuse with the letter R on it. It is soldered on the board and you cannot remove it to replace it.
Thinking back now about it, I could have simply used "Wire Glue" Conductive Glue instead of soldering.
If you look at a picture of the fuse, you will a small tiny metal surface on both sides of it. Just buy a 10A auto fuse from Auto Zone or any auto parts shop. Apply a tiny amount of the conductive glue to the two ends of the auto fuse and to the two tiny surfaces next to the blown fuse.
If you google ""Wire Glue" Conductive Glue", you will see what I mean. I do not know for sure it'll work, but it certainly is much less messy than soldering.