NotFuzzyWarm
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Evil beware: We have waffles!
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February 25, 2019, 07:59:01 PM |
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And nice to see that they are using bus bars from PSU to the hash boards vs the clips that BM uses. Should be far more reliable
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minefarmbuy
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We are not retail.
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February 25, 2019, 08:01:47 PM |
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Well you did circle it but still visible even as focus is on the center of the picture. Looks like just under your screwdriver a heat sink is bent in the same pic? Maybe it's just the angle.
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philipma1957
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'The right to privacy matters'
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February 25, 2019, 08:52:35 PM Last edit: February 26, 2019, 11:59:15 PM by frodocooper Merited by frodocooper (1) |
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heat sink is good last three shots now that the board is not smashed tight to the plate we are good to go this may mean I need a pcb bridge board since it could have a tiny crack in it. edit talked on telegram will get a free pcb bridge with other parts ordered
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TheYankeesWin!
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February 27, 2019, 05:44:44 PM |
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Phil have you tested to determine the pcb board is at fault and not a combination of hash board and pcb board?
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philipma1957
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February 27, 2019, 05:53:44 PM Last edit: February 28, 2019, 01:01:50 AM by frodocooper |
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Phil have you tested to determine the pcb board is at fault and not a combination of hash board and pcb board?
Yeah no news and it arriving is way better than no news and it staying in Limbo.
Looking forward to the video Phil. Did they think it was that part due to it being kinda a weak board then dropping off completely?
I decided to try to tease out an answer to this question by moving hashboards. slot one would sometimes be bad slot two would be bad almost all the time. slot three works great. I moved the board in slot 2 to slot 3 this board was the higher speed board if the slot2 has the problem the high speed board should work every time in slot 3 and the board in slot 2 should not work at all. This is exactly what happens. I am also pretty sure the putting a piece of insulation on the square below should prevent the pcb from ground out. So have a piece of electrical tape on that square. While I wait for the new pcb board from pangolinminer.com
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NotFuzzyWarm
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Evil beware: We have waffles!
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February 27, 2019, 06:12:39 PM |
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Hmm, I might try that with the #4 M10-31 I got on Monday. In full speed mode all boards fire up fine and the miner is doing 31.3TH. However, low-power mode is another story: SM2 (board 3) is fine but SM0 and SM1 do not like to startup at all and after a few reboots to get them started for warmup SM0 gets barely above 200MHz. Once the miner finishes testing and does its final startup reboot only board 3 remains alive and the other 2 do not restart. The 3 M10's I have at home run perfect in either normal or low-power modes.
Naturally this miner is the first one I wanted to use in my main farm to replace the few s9's I'm still running. Figured that the M10 doing 19-20TH @1,250w was going to be a perfect drop-in replacement for these old s9's (that are batch 5 & 11 so the BM LPM firmware does not work).
On the tape fix, careful! It is very easy for high spots on the board to push their way through it. A better choice would be a fiber washer like you get when you purchase MoBo's for building a PC. I know I've accumulated a gazillion of them over the years.
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philipma1957
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February 27, 2019, 07:34:31 PM Last edit: March 02, 2019, 10:38:01 PM by philipma1957 |
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yeah when the new pcb comes I will use a nylon washer. it will lift the board at the screw in point. edit i went back to normal power looks nice so far: got board went to telegram and found some others with same problem. So I linked this thread and I decided to further test my theory since these people had issue on slot sm2 I found some nylon washers placed them onto the metal mount holes. attached them with some electrical tape. so both sides of the pcb do not touch mount plate. and gear now starts up fully in well under 3 minutes so the base of the pcb board is fully isolated from the mount plate other then by the screw. the pcb board looks to be designed to grounded to the mount plates only at the screw holes and no where else. with the nylon washers in place the pcb board is about 1/16 or 1.5mm off the mount plates.
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Steamtyme
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March 10, 2019, 10:04:02 AM |
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Well that was the quickest decision I've ever made pretty sure this is a recent price drop by Pangolin. Just ordered my 3rd M10 31TH. This was a no brainer as described below, considering teh risk for me is to high on the 15 series from Bitmain. This bad boy won't be making it into the house though, straight to the garage, I'll have to take my 841 offline.
Right now on Pangolin they are listed for 785 USD, I was able to use the 51$ coupon as well so that brought it down to 734 USD, plus shipping.
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edonkey
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March 10, 2019, 05:55:21 PM |
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Long time no post. I've been quietly mining for the last several years on a pair of S9s and an L3+, powered by a pair of IBM 2880 PSUs.
Things are changing at our data center and we need some space. I figured I might as well upgrade at the same time. So I ordered an M10 and will be retiring the ancient miners.
I'm planning on running the M10 on 208 volts. I verified with the manufacturer that it's supposed to handle 200 - 240, so it should be fine.
Based on the original post, it looks like the PSU takes a C13 connector. I want to connect this to a C19 socket on our PDU. So I'm thinking about getting a 15 amp rated C13 to C20 cable.
That should be hefty enough right?
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philipma1957
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March 10, 2019, 06:40:03 PM |
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Long time no post. I've been quietly mining for the last several years on a pair of S9s and an L3+, powered by a pair of IBM 2880 PSUs.
Things are changing at our data center and we need some space. I figured I might as well upgrade at the same time. So I ordered an M10 and will be retiring the ancient miners.
I'm planning on running the M10 on 208 volts. I verified with the manufacturer that it's supposed to handle 200 - 240, so it should be fine.
Based on the original post, it looks like the PSU takes a C13 connector. I want to connect this to a C19 socket on our PDU. So I'm thinking about getting a 15 amp rated C13 to C20 cable.
That should be hefty enough right?
All of mine are 14 gauge c13 to c20 cables. I have seven like this zero issues.
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edonkey
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March 10, 2019, 10:58:33 PM Last edit: March 11, 2019, 12:22:19 AM by frodocooper |
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All of mine are 14 gauge c13 to c20 cables.
I have seven like this zero issues.
Thanks Phil! Hope you’re doing well. The one I was looking at is 12 guage, so it should be fine.
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philipma1957
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March 10, 2019, 11:46:19 PM Last edit: March 11, 2019, 12:22:35 AM by frodocooper |
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Thanks Phil! Hope you’re doing well.
The one I was looking at is 12 guage, so it should be fine.
Overkill but go for it as you will have no worries with it.
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minefarmbuy
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March 11, 2019, 04:23:53 PM |
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Shouldn't be too much in cost from 14 to 12 gauge anyway unless someone is soaking you for it. Well that was the quickest decision I've ever made pretty sure this is a recent price drop by Pangolin. Just ordered my 3rd M10 31TH. This was a no brainer as described below, considering teh risk for me is to high on the 15 series from Bitmain. This bad boy won't be making it into the house though, straight to the garage, I'll have to take my 841 offline.
Right now on Pangolin they are listed for 785 USD, I was able to use the 51$ coupon as well so that brought it down to 734 USD, plus shipping.
I saw this today, guess this is what I get for taking a day off but them I'm not sure when our pricing was updated.
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philipma1957
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March 11, 2019, 04:27:14 PM Last edit: March 11, 2019, 11:40:11 PM by frodocooper |
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nice yeah at 734 it is a good deal. they handled my 1 wire to 3 slot rma nicely
and I got a good look inside the gear these are better made hash boards with better heat sinks then the s9's ever were.
truly better made items.
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Steamtyme
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March 11, 2019, 07:09:13 PM |
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Yeah it was weird I really just stumbled upon the price drop updating the competitive hardware thread, then thought I might as well try the coupon code. Best thing about it is they just sent me my tracking info.
I was happy with how they handled the RMA for you Phil. Any company that works with you to troubleshoot and is willing to send out parts if you are comfortable making the repair is Grade A in my books
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edonkey
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I ordered on Sunday and had the miner in hand by noon on Wednesday. I installed it Wednesday afternoon. It all went well and the miner has been running with stable temps and a hash rate of 31.2 TH/s.
Very impressed with both pangolinminer.com and the M10!
Looks like they've cleared out their stock of the M10, because it's not visible on their shop any more. Now they're offering the M20, which is 48 or 58 Th/s, shipping by May 15.
One thing I noticed about the M10 is it runs really hot. I expected that because all those watts have to go somewhere. But it pumps out hot air like crazy, and the metal sides towards the exhaust end are very hot to the touch. Too bad I didn't have my Raytek with me to take a measurement.
Originally I was thinking about 3d printing a 120mm to 4 inch hose adaptor so that I can direct the heat out of the rack more effectively. But now I'm worried that the amount of heat might warp the PLA plastic. I guess I could try PETG, which can handle higher temps.
One question: how do you change the default password on the M10?
I tried to download the manual from microbt.com, but it seems to be corrupted or it can't be downloaded correctly and won't open. The manuals on pangolinminer.com are for an older model.
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philipma1957
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March 15, 2019, 05:44:02 PM Last edit: March 15, 2019, 11:44:03 PM by frodocooper |
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go to telegram I have it on my phones and on my mac's and pc's Yang is the tech support he is good. works Mon-Fri so he is not in right now as it is 145 am sat in china
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HagssFIN (OP)
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Electrical engineer. Mining since 2014.
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March 16, 2019, 07:47:27 AM |
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One question: how do you change the default password on the M10?
Please see chapter 5 in my review. You can do it at the Administration page.
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edonkey
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Please see chapter 5 in my review.
You can do it at the Administration page.
Thanks. I did look there first. I feel like an idiot, but I can't find a link or button on any page that leads to the admin page. I've tried two different browsers (Safari and Firefox). Note that your instructions say that the login credentials are root/root. When I got my M10, it defaults to a user name of admin. I ended up guessing that the password was also admin. That was the only way that I could get in. When I try entering root/root, it gives me an "Invalid username and/or password" error. I can only log in via admin/admin. If there are separate root and admin users, then perhaps the fact that I can only login as admin means that I have reduced privileges. That might explain why I can't see the admin page. This assumes that the web GUI is different for different privileges, which is just a guess on my part. Anyway, this machine is behind a firewall in a locked rack in a secure data center with no WiFi access. While I prefer to change the default password, it's unlikely to be a real security issue. So maybe I shouldn't stress over the password.
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