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Author Topic: Server PSU for Antminer S1, step by step guide.  (Read 40328 times)
shaxs
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March 18, 2014, 06:42:53 AM
 #21

I also noticed in the last picture you have them running in a garage? Any issues running a rack of these in a garage? I don't have a car in my garage and just use it for storage and the cats eat and use the litter box in there. It is not cooled and we get over 100 degrees outside here in Texas.

Yes, it is a basement garage actually, and has two opposite side exits. It makes a nice air flow and to be honest there is no temp issue so far as I keep both doors open.

It is only 70f degrees max here in Greece right now so I am confident that all 24 ants work smoothly even overclocked for many more days.

I am not quite sure about your 100f , but if you have some similar natural air flow, I believe you will have no issues either.

Just dont lock them inside.

I was out of town for a funeral and had a friend watching my animals. He had to go to my office to get something and shut the walk in closet door where my network equipment and 1 antminer is running. Lol. I got home and the 9.5x5" space was 100 degrees! Yikes! I was wondering why the internal temp on the antminer was 51! I bought a portable ac unit for the room to cool it down as I will be adding quite a few more to the mix.
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March 18, 2014, 10:01:40 AM
 #22

I also noticed in the last picture you have them running in a garage? Any issues running a rack of these in a garage? I don't have a car in my garage and just use it for storage and the cats eat and use the litter box in there. It is not cooled and we get over 100 degrees outside here in Texas.

Yes, it is a basement garage actually, and has two opposite side exits. It makes a nice air flow and to be honest there is no temp issue so far as I keep both doors open.

It is only 70f degrees max here in Greece right now so I am confident that all 24 ants work smoothly even overclocked for many more days.

I am not quite sure about your 100f , but if you have some similar natural air flow, I believe you will have no issues either.

Just dont lock them inside.

I was out of town for a funeral and had a friend watching my animals. He had to go to my office to get something and shut the walk in closet door where my network equipment and 1 antminer is running. Lol. I got home and the 9.5x5" space was 100 degrees! Yikes! I was wondering why the internal temp on the antminer was 51! I bought a portable ac unit for the room to cool it down as I will be adding quite a few more to the mix.


Whats your fan setting? PWM or always full on?

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viriat0
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March 18, 2014, 12:25:26 PM
 #23

Good work! Thanks for share!
tzortz (OP)
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March 18, 2014, 12:27:57 PM
 #24

Good work! Thanks for share!


Thanks viriat0!

I will post more technical subjects soon!





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March 18, 2014, 02:02:00 PM
 #25

Thank you
Very cost effective method if you have the tools to do it and easy access to the materials.
I'm going to give it a try.

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March 18, 2014, 02:15:48 PM
 #26

get some liquid elecetrical tape - it works great for sealing off those exposed solder connections from the environment or shorts

24" PCI-E cables with 16AWG wires and stripped ends - great for server PSU mods, best prices https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=563461
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March 18, 2014, 04:08:58 PM
 #27

get some liquid elecetrical tape - it works great for sealing off those exposed solder connections from the environment or shorts
Great suggestion. I ordered a bottle off of eBay just now.

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March 18, 2014, 05:35:05 PM
 #28

Is it better to increase the voltage that high?

I have seen others doing it because they use those psus' for battery charging control.

I know S1s have DC-DC converters , but I am not sure about their characteristics and tolerance to that voltage.

It ends up 12.50V at the end of PCIe cable so it's all good. I have 2 S1's running on 1 PSU at 120V without any issues.

Here's a picture of what my ugly solder job looks like.

NOTE: All connections on the right side of the picture are positive regardless of black wires shown in picture. Those PCIe wires with no color coding can be a bit scary if anything gets mixed up. Use a continuity tester to be sure you're getting the correct wires.



I tapped it and it looks better.

@tzortz: Thanks for the inspiration. I have 6 of these PSUs and no longer need to buy expensive Seasonics.


Yes you are right.
Do you have any pictures of how you have done it?
I am so curious to see the soldering on the gold plating.
Soldering those connectors was very easy but needed flux before soldering. Pretty much the rest was same as your method. Put solder down on the connector, fill wire with solder, put the two together and put the solder gun down. I have a variable solder station (really nice machine) and I soldered these at 520C for fast melting and joints.

Correct me if I'm wrong but those PSU are 1000W right think they could manage 2 PSU overclock or 3 at a push ?

Cheers
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March 18, 2014, 06:02:56 PM
 #29

Is it better to increase the voltage that high?

I have seen others doing it because they use those psus' for battery charging control.

I know S1s have DC-DC converters , but I am not sure about their characteristics and tolerance to that voltage.

It ends up 12.50V at the end of PCIe cable so it's all good. I have 2 S1's running on 1 PSU at 120V without any issues.

Here's a picture of what my ugly solder job looks like.

NOTE: All connections on the right side of the picture are positive regardless of black wires shown in picture. Those PCIe wires with no color coding can be a bit scary if anything gets mixed up. Use a continuity tester to be sure you're getting the correct wires.


I tapped it and it looks better.

@tzortz: Thanks for the inspiration. I have 6 of these PSUs and no longer need to buy expensive Seasonics.


Yes you are right.
Do you have any pictures of how you have done it?
I am so curious to see the soldering on the gold plating.
Soldering those connectors was very easy but needed flux before soldering. Pretty much the rest was same as your method. Put solder down on the connector, fill wire with solder, put the two together and put the solder gun down. I have a variable solder station (really nice machine) and I soldered these at 520C for fast melting and joints.

Good job, nice done. No losses.

But you could use the slots from those psus, if you can find.

Take a look here how I have done in the past.












































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tzortz (OP)
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March 18, 2014, 06:06:08 PM
 #30

Thank you
Very cost effective method if you have the tools to do it and easy access to the materials.
I'm going to give it a try.


If you need help, pm me.

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tzortz (OP)
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March 18, 2014, 06:12:39 PM
 #31

Is it better to increase the voltage that high?

I have seen others doing it because they use those psus' for battery charging control.

I know S1s have DC-DC converters , but I am not sure about their characteristics and tolerance to that voltage.

It ends up 12.50V at the end of PCIe cable so it's all good. I have 2 S1's running on 1 PSU at 120V without any issues.

Here's a picture of what my ugly solder job looks like.

NOTE: All connections on the right side of the picture are positive regardless of black wires shown in picture. Those PCIe wires with no color coding can be a bit scary if anything gets mixed up. Use a continuity tester to be sure you're getting the correct wires.


I tapped it and it looks better.

@tzortz: Thanks for the inspiration. I have 6 of these PSUs and no longer need to buy expensive Seasonics.


Yes you are right.
Do you have any pictures of how you have done it?
I am so curious to see the soldering on the gold plating.
Soldering those connectors was very easy but needed flux before soldering. Pretty much the rest was same as your method. Put solder down on the connector, fill wire with solder, put the two together and put the solder gun down. I have a variable solder station (really nice machine) and I soldered these at 520C for fast melting and joints.

Correct me if I'm wrong but those PSU are 1000W right think they could manage 2 PSU overclock or 3 at a push ?

Cheers


It depends on the 12v supply. Sometimes they load the wattage on 5V so you lose on 12V.

Even though, I have been using another 12V-59A psu to supply 2 S1s' (both sucking 62A) and it has been working like a boss for 2 weeks!

Those server psus' are monsters, not compared to anything else.





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March 19, 2014, 01:23:25 AM
 #32

Correct me if I'm wrong but those PSU are 1000W right think they could manage 2 PSU overclock or 3 at a push ?

Cheers
Correct but only if you supply it 220V. I think they are 800W at 110V and 900W at 120V. I've been running 2 units on one PSU OC'd each to 375 no problem in 24 hours. These supplies do get a little loud though.

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March 19, 2014, 03:11:12 AM
 #33

Amazing. I wonder if it can be done with HP power supply part#403781-001 & 379124-001 - They are 1000watt supplies and very good quality too. I have like 6 of them lying around with no use for them.



I do exactly what he does with those 1000w's, 1300w, and 2000w psu's already -- I do them on a pcb breakout w/ terminal blocks tho. sidehack I believe sells some pretty nice ones too, but I think they're just for the 750w's right now.

You can order the FCI part for that 1000w off mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/10053363-200LF/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduj%252bgcCMSc6iW%252bc8yYaGmuc5esQepH84x2naxctQ%2fir27o6wXqkR84O5 --pins 31 and 32 on the 1000w are to short it to on [I'll save you that trouble, grab a multimeter to figure out the +12, -12, etc or there's prob a pinout online somewhere]
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March 19, 2014, 08:57:52 AM
 #34

Got 2 PSUs from a Compaq 9000 server, including the backplane + cables.
Have not tried to connect anything yet.

Anybody have an ide how to jump-start it ? Just use the ATX like cable ?
And then with all the cables, I can easily measure where I get 12V out.

It is rated 750W output @ 220V. 2 of those on the backplane = 1500W out.
Should be more than enough for 3 units, probably fine for 4 units.

4x360 @ wall = 1440 * 0.85 efficiency = 1225 power draw.

Did anybody measure actual power consumption by one Antminer S1 ?

The PSUs are rated 6A @220V input = 1320W, so 750W out is pretty poor. But maybe they are efficent, and the 1320W is startup peak.
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March 19, 2014, 10:07:32 AM
 #35

Great guide, but I think you really ought to mention the danger's with opening a PSU. I wouldn't want to see anyone seriously injured when they shock themselves by shorting a freshly charged PSU capacitor.

BE CAREFUL
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March 19, 2014, 03:32:34 PM
 #36

Got 2 PSUs from a Compaq 9000 server, including the backplane + cables.
Have not tried to connect anything yet.

Anybody have an ide how to jump-start it ? Just use the ATX like cable ?
And then with all the cables, I can easily measure where I get 12V out.

It is rated 750W output @ 220V. 2 of those on the backplane = 1500W out.
Should be more than enough for 3 units, probably fine for 4 units.

4x360 @ wall = 1440 * 0.85 efficiency = 1225 power draw.

Did anybody measure actual power consumption by one Antminer S1 ?

The PSUs are rated 6A @220V input = 1320W, so 750W out is pretty poor. But maybe they are efficent, and the 1320W is startup peak.

I have measured 3600W for 10 antminers at the wall. So 360W per antminer as advertised.

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March 20, 2014, 10:14:54 PM
Last edit: March 21, 2014, 09:59:30 PM by tzortz
 #37

Great guide, but I think you really ought to mention the danger's with opening a PSU. I wouldn't want to see anyone seriously injured when they shock themselves by shorting a freshly charged PSU capacitor.

BE CAREFUL

Thanks for your kind words.

All modern psus get discharged completely within a couple of seconds after disconnecting, by a full speed fan load-discharge technique. Hence, there is no such issue of getting shocked.

Although, to be honest , it has been many times I have opened psus and had frogotten to unplug the power cable.
I am lucky I did not get injured yet, but caution is a measure that has to be taken very seriously when playing with electricity.

Thanks for your advise, I had to mention it earlier.

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March 21, 2014, 09:38:45 PM
Last edit: March 22, 2014, 03:40:11 PM by miaviator
 #38

Thank You for this!  And thanks for the step by step pics!

For anyone looking for copper:

Home Depot: BTC0614-B2 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn-Single-Conductor-6-Stranded-to-14-AWG-Type-BTC-Copper-Wire-Connectors-2-Pack-BTC0614-B2-5/100206838?keyword=BTC0614-b2
UPC: 78378637251

No solder, no cutting  Grin I don't have a caliper handy or I'd measure it out for you.  It's about 9mm x 1.7mm eyeballing it.


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March 21, 2014, 09:41:43 PM
 #39

Thank You for this!  And thanks for the step by step pics!

For anyone looking for copper:

Home Depot: BTC0614-B2 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn-Single-Conductor-6-Stranded-to-14-AWG-Type-BTC-Copper-Wire-Connectors-2-Pack-BTC0614-B2-5/100206838?keyword=BTC0614-b2
UPC: 78378637251

No solder, no cutting  Grin I don't have a caliper handy or I'd measure it out for you.  It's about 9mm x 1.7mm eyeballing it.



Oh sweet! There ya go!
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March 21, 2014, 09:57:45 PM
 #40

Thank You for this!  And thanks for the step by step pics!
 Shocked
For anyone looking for copper:

Home Depot: BTC0614-B2 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn-Single-Conductor-6-Stranded-to-14-AWG-Type-BTC-Copper-Wire-Connectors-2-Pack-BTC0614-B2-5/100206838?keyword=BTC0614-b2
UPC: 78378637251

No solder, no cutting  Grin I don't have a caliper handy or I'd measure it out for you.  It's about 9mm x 1.7mm eyeballing it.




For god shake!

How the fuck did you find that??

You are awesome!

 Shocked

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