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Author Topic: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair  (Read 74030 times)
usao
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April 26, 2014, 08:19:59 PM
 #41

Pretty awesome!
Which supplier did you buy yours from? Im trying to figure out if GAWminers(atari02) is reputable or not...
Never bought a blade from GAWMiners, but did buy pods. They were quick and easy with fast shipping. No problems with them from my experience.
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wolfey2014
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April 26, 2014, 10:24:46 PM
 #42

Will this void the warranty?

Yes, and it'll most likely destroy your blade, so don't do it unless you know what you do and you are able to fix all the mess you could have done trying to improve.

I decided to try it because I was confident I'll be able to fix it or at least revert back to stock if anything went wrong.
Even knowing that, I only tried one PCB at a time

So, any further progress with your blade experimentation? Or are you taking a break from R&D for a couple days ? Wink
I still see slightly better $/KH performance per chip out of overclocked pods than blades at this point.
Do you think the blade can be further overclocked enough to at least match oc'd pod performance without a lot more modifications and hardware upgrades?
I mean, the thing I like about the blade over the pod right now is 1 blade obviously takes up a lot less space than 16 pods would at 80 chips total for both.

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April 27, 2014, 04:00:34 PM
 #43

Hi wolfey,

I'll stay with the actual stable overclocking until I go back home in a few days as I'll have more hardware and components available to test.

For now, using cpuminer, it seems that some chips do want to go higher that 1075Mhz, and some do prefer 1025 or 1000.
I should have received some heatsinks the proper size at home for the gridseed chips, so I'll try it, just in case it helps a little.

I should also have from other projects most of the components needed to duplicate the powerboard.


As a side note, Zig and wolfey, your help is very much appreciated, but please stay on topic in the thread. Personal issues should be solved in PM.





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April 27, 2014, 05:23:54 PM
Last edit: April 27, 2014, 08:00:05 PM by nemercry
 #44

Good work and much appreciation.
I will follow your Thread. : )!

EDIT: Are there any circuit diagrams available from the blade?

Regards
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April 27, 2014, 08:46:54 PM
 #45

You can use the 8 chip ones from github.
If they aren't the good ones, they are really close and show you how are driven 5 lines of 8 chips on the blade.
the powerboard looks the same too except for a few components replaced with equivalent ones (VRM for example) and the main capacitor that for some reasons is 25V on the design and 16V on the blade. 25 is the good value for me. One rule for any capacitor to be safe: twice the voltage that will go through.

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April 27, 2014, 09:25:33 PM
 #46

Question, is there a resistor that can be lowered in resistance to achieve the OV? much like there is w/ a resistor divider type circuit? I dont know how this board works , dont know where diagram is.
But if there is please let me know which resistor =) Thanks

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April 28, 2014, 12:55:08 PM
 #47

I have also bought some collers an will glue it in backside of board where it "missing"
I will put there maybe small cpu cooler with fan on it need to check ho much place is there.
Also planing to put some coller on chips behind 220 uf capactotor and remove that a bit so cooler can be biger.
Waiting for cooling glue paste to do that, but have ni intent to go higher than 41K resistor.

Now with no overclock just bfgminer works so so, from 2.35 MH to 2.55 MH
what is not even near declaration.

Which cgminer people use for blade?

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April 28, 2014, 02:31:21 PM
 #48

Thats pretty impressive, You would think heatsinks would have helped though.

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April 28, 2014, 02:36:08 PM
 #49

I have also bought some collers an will glue it in backside of board where it "missing"
I will put there maybe small cpu cooler with fan on it need to check ho much place is there.
Also planing to put some coller on chips behind 220 uf capactotor and remove that a bit so cooler can be biger.
Waiting for cooling glue paste to do that, but have ni intent to go higher than 41K resistor.

Now with no overclock just bfgminer works so so, from 2.35 MH to 2.55 MH
what is not even near declaration.

Which cgminer people use for blade?

I use the first linked cgminer from andreed ... and it works flawless ^^

-:| www.DOTMog.com |:-
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April 28, 2014, 03:52:59 PM
 #50

Thats pretty impressive, You would think heatsinks would have helped though.
with cooler i meant heatsink
I think I will put on the board these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5W-10W-High-Power-LED-Cooling-Fan-Aluminium-Heatsink-/231055723509?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cbfe8bf5

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April 28, 2014, 11:37:31 PM
 #51

INterest to know which capacitor i would need to get to replace the current 16v 220uf

http://za.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/capacitors/aluminium-capacitors/?searchTerm=capacitor+220uf&applied-dimensions=4294768398&esid=cl_4294967294,cl_4294959673,cl_4294956103,cl_4294955859,cl_4294957617,cl_4294958996,cl_4294958230,cl_4294959435,cl_4294958283,cl_4294958271&m=1&aaaExp=Y&last-removed=4294462983&pn=2

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April 29, 2014, 05:16:41 AM
 #52

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?


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April 29, 2014, 05:38:37 AM
 #53

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?


Did u try pushing it? Im guessing its some sort of reset button... but just a wild guess outta my ass tho =P

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April 29, 2014, 06:04:04 AM
 #54

I want to know what it does before I press it...
Doubt nothing's gonna break, but just to be sure.  Undecided

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April 29, 2014, 07:36:55 AM
 #55

Self destruction of the blade?

BTW, it's RST switch as on the pod.
Some kind of hard reset of the USB protocol.

It's connected to pin 7 of the STM32F103C8T

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April 29, 2014, 07:39:18 AM
 #56

I pushed it, it is not a switch it is a thermal switch, i think.
For capacitor you don't need to put on exactly the same with shape, but with specification and more zhan 16v.

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April 29, 2014, 07:39:39 AM
 #57


I actually have 35V 220uF, but I'll probably go for dual 25V or 35V 470uF depending on what I have at home.
And not SMD ones, they will be easier to solder.

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April 29, 2014, 07:49:11 AM
 #58

you need to watch that is long lasting and for higher temperature.

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April 29, 2014, 11:54:52 AM
Last edit: April 29, 2014, 02:52:15 PM by xcooling
 #59

got myself 39kohm resistors (type 603) and 220uf 35v capacitors.

Will post with my results once ive done the soldering ;-P  hoping for 1050mhz stable

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April 29, 2014, 01:37:48 PM
 #60

I want to know what it does before I press it...
Doubt nothing's gonna break, but just to be sure.  Undecided

When button is pressed .......... tick tock tick ticok tick tock ......  BOOM!!!!!!!  Grin

No, I'm sure it's a reset button.
Someone else tried it as a last ditch effort to handle a DOA pod and it actually reset it. IT even started working and it's been hashing away ever since. Wink

Your button may differ Wink ......... BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!! Grin

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