GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair

[Brassguy]

Does anyone have a good working bfgminer.conf or CGminer.conf they wish to share for stock G-blades that'll work under Windows?
Thanks.

I am using just plain ".bat" file ...like this...?

cgminer.exe --scrypt -o stratum+tcp://usa.wemineltc.com:3336 -u YOURUSER -p YOURPASS --gridseed-options=baud=230400 --gridseed-options per_chip_stats=1, freq=838,chips=40 --hotplug 5

Hope it helps...

ZiG

Thanks but it didn't work.  What's the equivalent of that in BFGminer's .bat file?

I tried something similar, (displayed later in this response), but it fails with "Unexpected extra command line argument".
This is my failing batch file with BFGminer in a Windows CMD prompt with the following in a .bat file:
bfgminer.exe -S noauto -S gridseed:all --gridseed-options=baud=115200,freq=838,chips=40,modules=1 –-hotplug=5 --scrypt -o stratum+tcp://gridseed.wemineltc.com:3333 -u testworker.1 -p 123 --failover-only -o stratum+tcp://stratum.scryptguild.com:3333 -u testworker.1 -p 123.

BFGminer doesn't like the "--gridseed-options=baud=115200,freq=838,chips=40,modules=1 –-hotplug=5" portion.  It fails & terminates with with "Unexpected extra command line argument".

But this works in a .bat file:
bfgminer.exe -S noauto -S gridseed:all --scrypt -o stratum+tcp://gridseed.wemineltc.com:3333 -u testworker.1 -p 123 --failover-only -o stratum+tcp://stratum.scryptguild.com:3333 -u testworker.1 -p 123.  But this won't hash above 8MH/s.

My problem is that they don't go above 3.5MH/s with this string even though they are supposed to hit a minimum of 5.2MH/s.  Not seeing this.  Getting a top hashing of 6-7MH/s with both G-blades.

Under my Raspberry Pi Model-B I get 11-12Mh/s, minimal HW errors but the hashing on there last about 30 minutes before it all comes to a crawling 720KH/s.  Needless to say which is why I'm trying this under windows 7 SP1 now.  I tried getting them to work with Multiminer v3.2.2 but the best I got was also between 5-6MH/s.
So now I'm trying to get this to work from the Window CMD prompt.
Once I can past the basic stuff working stable, then I want to get to mod the crap out of these G-blades.


So that's why I was asking if I could get someone to display either their BFGminer.conf file, preferably under v4.2.0 or their CGminer.

Here's my .bat file

If you don't specify frequencies bfg miner will default to 600... hence you're only getting ~2MH per blade.

Code:

bfgminer --scrypt -o pool URL -u Username -p password --api-listen -S noauto -S gsd:all  --set-device gridseed0:clock=825 --set-device gridseed1:clock=825 --set-device gridseed2:clock=825 --set-device gridseed3:clock=825

my problem with bfg miner is I can't figure out how to specify frequency by serial number string like cpuminer Cpuminer fails for me after about an hour, even with fifo disabled in windows for those ports.

So I'm currently using jmordica's cgminer.  Anytime I have to restart or change settings, I have to run Zadig to get the blades to be detected again. Sometimes have to reset blades over and over and run zadig 5 times to get all my blades running.

[suzukii]

Does anyone have a good working bfgminer.conf or CGminer.conf they wish to share for stock G-blades that'll work under Windows?
Thanks.

...But this works in a .bat file:
bfgminer.exe -S noauto -S gridseed:all --scrypt -o stratum+tcp://gridseed.wemineltc.com:3333 -u testworker.1 -p 123 --failover-only -o stratum+tcp://stratum.scryptguild.com:3333 -u testworker.1 -p 123.  But this won't hash above 8MH/s.

My problem is that they don't go above 3.5MH/s with this string even though they are supposed to hit a minimum of 5.2MH/s.  Not seeing this.  Getting a top hashing of 6-7MH/s with both G-blades.

Under my Raspberry Pi Model-B I get 11-12Mh/s, minimal HW errors but the hashing on there last about 30 minutes before it all comes to a crawling 720KH/s.  Needless to say which is why I'm trying this under windows 7 SP1 now.  I tried getting them to work with Multiminer v3.2.2 but the best I got was also between 5-6MH/s.
So now I'm trying to get this to work from the Window CMD prompt.
Once I can past the basic stuff working stable, then I want to get to mod the crap out of these G-blades.


So that's why I was asking if I could get someone to display either their BFGminer.conf file, preferably under v4.2.0 or their CGminer.

Here's my .bat file

If you don't specify frequencies bfg miner will default to 600... hence you're only getting ~2MH per blade.

Code:

bfgminer --scrypt -o pool URL -u Username -p password --api-listen -S noauto -S gsd:all  --set-device gridseed0:clock=825 --set-device gridseed1:clock=825 --set-device gridseed2:clock=825 --set-device gridseed3:clock=825

my problem with bfg miner is I can't figure out how to specify frequency by serial number string like cpuminer Cpuminer fails for me after about an hour, even with fifo disabled in windows for those ports.

So I'm currently using jmordica's cgminer.  Anytime I have to restart or change settings, I have to run Zadig to get the blades to be detected again. Sometimes have to reset blades over and over and run zadig 5 times to get all my blades running.

I'm going to try this as soon as I get home. Thank you.

[dyland]

I've got three modded blades, and I can't seem to get them above 6.1Mh/s each poolside when using clevermining.

They are all at 963Mhz, but I can toggle with the speeds through hashra--anyone have any tips and tricks to squeeze a bit more out fo these guys?

[natbyte]

What value resistor did you mod with? If you went 39k ohm, you probably won't see much higher than 988mhz.

[J4bberwock]

I've got three modded blades, and I can't seem to get them above 6.1Mh/s each poolside when using clevermining.

They are all at 963Mhz, but I can toggle with the speeds through hashra--anyone have any tips and tricks to squeeze a bit more out fo these guys?

If they are from zoomhash with a single heatsink on the coil, the resistor should be 37.5k. I just repaired one for someone locally that had burnt upper gate mosfet.
It's stable at 950 Mhz, 963 should be fine.

but please, if it is this one, and before it fails, add a nice heatsink 37x37mm around 20mm high with arctic ceramique under the PCB where the mosfets are
You can also add tall custom heatsinks on top of the mosfets with some thermal glue. The heatsink needs to be around 15mm high so it will catch the airflow from the fan.

I'll post a picture of this tall heatsink mod soon.

[kaltar]

Well, i'm at a lost, i modded one of my blades with a 39k resistor, and it was working fine for a few hours, i didn;t oc it, was running it at 850, than it stopped hashing, i redid the solder joints, and worked again a bit, but it stopped hashing again, but this time no success, i tried another resistor, no hash and getting HW errors, i even reput the original resistor, ( i add managed to save it. )
and still no hashing, but only getting HW errors, i took a look at the board and nothing seem to be blown or out of place.

Any ideas .?

[J4bberwock]

Well, i'm at a lost, i modded one of my blades with a 39k resistor, and it was working fine for a few hours, i didn;t oc it, was running it at 850, than it stopped hashing, i redid the solder joints, and worked again a bit, but it stopped hashing again, but this time no success, i tried another resistor, no hash and getting HW errors, i even reput the original resistor, ( i add managed to save it. )
and still no hashing, but only getting HW errors, i took a look at the board and nothing seem to be blown or out of place.

Any ideas .?

Have you made the cooling improvements?

Anyway, I suspect a bad soldering. High quality picture would help.

Did you solder with good solder paste/flux?
Clean with isopropyl alcohol around the resistor if this isn't No clean solder flux

Are you using fine tip iron or hot air station?

Try to check the resistor value by measuring it from the alternate soldering place I showed in one of my first pictures.
If it isn't stable or not 39k, you failed the soldering job. Use good quality solder paste. I've made a post with everything I used.

Using 850 clock will drain the same watt than overclocking once you have replaced the resistor. Go up to 975 with all the extra cooking.

[J4bberwock]

On the 4th picture, you see the alternate place for the resistor. You can measure resistance between the 2 pads to check if your joint is good.
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=576784.msg6545543#msg6545543

[kaltar]

joint seems to be good, i get the same value as if i'm measuring the resistor it self.

i sent you a PM btw J4

[kaltar]

here is a picture


post image online

[kaltar]

i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?

[wolfey2014]

i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?

OH ---- MY ---- GOD!!!!

I can't believe you even touched the PCB!
If you don't even know how to read the value of a resistor........
You probably toasted it!

Please people, to keep from giving we professionals out here a heart attack, spend the extra money to pay a pro' to do the work needed instead of risking losing everything you've invested in, possibly for nothing!
At least find a skilled volunteer!
You can always ask your local TV or PC etc. repair shop to do it for you.
Geesh! OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG TIMES 10000!!!
Good luck!

[J4bberwock]

i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?

OH ---- MY ---- GOD!!!!

I can't believe you even touched the PCB!
If you don't even know how to read the value of a resistor........
You probably toasted it!

Please people, to keep from giving we professionals out here a heart attack, spend the extra money to pay a pro' to do the work needed instead of risking losing everything you've invested in, possibly for nothing!
At least find a skilled volunteer!
You can always ask your local TV or PC etc. repair shop to do it for you.
Geesh! OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG TIMES 10000!!!
Good luck!

Hopefully, I do expect that the MOSFETs will have failed and nothing else.
worst thing would be the up1509 since there is no pin to pin compatible replacement and I can't source the original chip.

[racebyu]

Question: if you mod your blade and add a 33k+ resistor but keep your freq lower
in 825 or 838 range do you see a reduction or elimination of rejects/hardware errors?

[J4bberwock]

Question: if you mod your blade and add a 33k+ resistor but keep your freq lower
in 825 or 838 range do you see a reduction or elimination of rejects/hardware errors?

You will be able to go higher clock without HW errors, but it shouldn't affect the rejects.

[pws328]

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA.

I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything?

Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! 

[racebyu]

That might work, could be a reset if the blade gets locked up.
I remember the old ASIC blades also had a similar reset feature
if the unit became locked up during mining and power reset did
not work.

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA.

I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything?

Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! 

[gades]

On-board microcontroller burned STM32F103RCT6, and behind him and a voltage 5V to 3.3V. After dismantling stabilizer defined fault on the board.



1. Place stabilizer;
2. Search faults using thermal paper;

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=664905.msg

[ZiG]

On-board microcontroller burned STM32F103RCT6, and behind him and a voltage 5V to 3.3V. After dismantling stabilizer defined fault on the board.



1. Place stabilizer;
2. Search faults using thermal paper;

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=664905.msg

Could you elaborate...?

BTW, thermal paper is a great idea...

ZiG

[J4bberwock]

That might work, could be a reset if the blade gets locked up.
I remember the old ASIC blades also had a similar reset feature
if the unit became locked up during mining and power reset did
not work.

Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA.

I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything?

Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! 

I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.

You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.