If you still have it and are US based and ever get motivated ping out to me, I'll take it. I had a few and as lightfoot said, dead quiet and throw more even heat then the R4 or an underclocked 1 board S9.

Not real reliable at times and you have to have a separate controller but still a neat piece of mining history.

-Dave

Dave,
What mining software are you using?

Those two miners have different firmware on them so one will work with CGMiner and one won't.  I couldn't get either to work with mainline BFGMiner.  So I had to use the old BFL supplied hacked version of BFG Miner.
Sam

They both worked with the hacked BFG.

This one did not even show up as attached to the PC at first. Then it did, and it mined fine for a while. Then it just disappeared. Checked cables and power and such and all looks good.

Figured I would do a quick voltage test in some spots to see if it's even getting power where it should.

Beyond that, it probably is not worth the time. I picked them up as ulta-quiet 700 watt space heaters

-Dave

So...... It's um.... been awhile.

While cleaning out some junk here in the lab I came across a box with my Jalapeno, some Titans, and a pair of Monarchs I bought on Ebay long ago. Everything was rusty, dusty, haven't been run in forever and last were used as space heaters because unlike Antminers they are kind of quiet....

And I figured "Why not, I wonder if they still work?" So I cleared my bench and started looking at all of this stuff.

First was to get the Jalapeno working. This was my 3 chip model, my 8 chip water cooled super Jally and the 7 chip air cooled Jally are upstairs somewhere. But I found a power supply, plugged it in, and fired it up. Fan was unbalanced (broken blades, these used to be tough to get) so I dug out a spare, swapped it, and then had to find BFGMiner.

Not easy: The Github repository seems abandoned and many of the modules needed don't.... seem to be in the right places. Finally found CGMiner, compiled it on a Pi, had the compile totally barf, found that the code was not great and the latest version of gcc doesn't allow all that redefining of variables, found the switch to ignore that, and got it up and running.

Next up, found a pool, connected the Jally and sure enough I'm mining at a blistering 10gh/s. At this rate my .01 minimum payout will take.... forever? Yeah. Forever. Even hitting the minimum share amount is like a couple of times a *day*. Not once a second anymore, maybe I'll just solo mine. Wonder if p2pool is still around.

Found another jally, gave it a whirl, it works too. This was a bog-stock model that I never flashed, changed, or hacked. 4gh speed. Which is about what they came with, I remember when we were flashing like nuts to get them to 5-6gh, then we started adding chips....

The Monarchs..... man, those are a different story. One literally exploded its FETs when plugged in, and the later model went to thermal shutdown pretty much immediately. I'll see if I can get it running, these were a lot more fickle, and my guess is the water coolers are shot, the FETs are insane, all of that stuff....

Do not plug those in.

Next week, I'll take a look at the Titans. Fujicoin anyone :-)

Never seen one with 4 molex plugs. The ones with two do burn the plugs, I can replace those.

But I took the water loop apart and found some interesting stuff:
1) The loop was low on water. This is a big problem as the pumps *cannot* self prime. They need a full amount of water to work, otherwise you go into thermal la-la land.
2) Cutting those junk hoses off shows that it uses 7/16 inside diameter tubing with flanges so you can replace it with real tubes.
3) The real problem: The propolyne glycol or whatever they put in there precipitates out of the water into thin strings of gruel. This is a massive problem because:

4) It clogs the little water radiators inside the pumps.

If you pull the tubes off the pump, put real tubing on it, and immerse the right tube into a bucket of clean water and suck on the left tube (to prime it) you will get the propolyne out and some of the slime will appear. Dump that water and flush again with clean. Then turn on the pump and see if it pumps water through in a nice stream. If a dribble then you have to take the water block apart (8 screws) and you will find that on the back of the copper plate is what looks like a fine radiator with a white rubber thing in the pump.

What happens is the pump pushes water through the white things which forces the water *through* those tiny fins to pick up all the heat from the copper. If those find get clogged your pump will not flow and will not conduct worth a damn. Clean those fins with a toothbrush and soap and rinse it well.

More on refilling in a bit. Remember the pumps cannot prime themselves so there can't be air bubbles in the water system.

Interesting point @notfuzzy: Thermal expansion is going to be needed, but any air that hits the pumps seems to fuck them over. Yaknow, I cut open one of the radiators and it is basically a two sided thing with one side going from the port down to the bottom of the radiator, where the bottom connects the two sides, then back up to the other port for output. If the pump catches a water bubble it's going to lose prime.

Putting the radiator upside down is a master stroke, it would solve the bubble problem, keep the pumps primed at all times, and of course BFL didn't do it :-) But I never thought of that....

Currently I'm running with an absolutely full radiator and rubber hoses that do have some give. Not sure how much added pressure there is, but maybe I should look into either a small air bladder type expansion tank to allow the fluid to expand without introducing air to the mix. Hm.....

It doesn't help that *all* flexible tubing allows water vapor to diffuse through the wall leading to coolant loss with no visual evidence of leaks or 'sweating'.. The material used makes the difference between almost no significant loss per year to 'oh crap!' in the same time. Norprene has the lowest diffusion rate.

Good article about mounting pump/radiator and touches on the tubing used to reduce loss: https://www.cclonline.com/article/2005/Guide/Water-Cooling-Kits/AiO-Water-Cooling-Best-Setup-Don-t-Get-It-Wrong-/