I can ship to Spain, or anywhere in the world. Shipping will be extra. PM me with address and country and I will get a shipping quote.

Thanks!

I have acquired a quantity of KNC Titan batch 2  5 cube new old stock. I am entertaining offers but will mine them if the offers are two low.  My target price is $10 per MH. I have already talked by PM and know that just about everyone is willing to pay $5 MH, and I have some offers up to $8 per MH. Please PM me with offers of $7.5 per MH and higher, and how many units you want. It is limited quantity, but I will not say how many. Final decision will be made early next week on selling any, or just mining them all.

Thanks,

Max 

I am getting ready to run another batch of the X bracket mounts. If everyone interested could PM me with the number of X brackets you would like I will order the batch made accordingly. Please let me know even if you are not ready to purchase them at this time, and would like to purchase them at a later date.

Thanks,

Max       

Bracket kits are still available.

We are seeing about 5 C cooler chip with the bracket application and various heatsinks on the dc/dc bring them down almost 10 C with the stock fan. With a 3000 RPM Noctua fan it lowers everything about a additional 5 C cooler.  Your milage may vary. Please see above posts from other miners that have used the bracket kits.

Thanks.

I prefer to solo mine at  http://ltc.tbdice.org/index.htm
It's LTC merged mining with DOGE.
That way you keep what you kill.
M-

What screws to use where when mounting the 4 point brackets:

When its all mounted you should have 1 of the 3 long hold down screws leftover.

To mount the bracket to the small aluminum cooler holddown use the 2 screws that held the PC Board to the cube bottom in the front, and the 2 cube screws for top of the cube. These screws will be long enough to hold the brackets to the hold down but will not protrude out the bottom of the bracket plate. Then you can use two of your 3 long screws for the front, and my 2 provided black long screws fro the back, or if you prefer when applying to 2 cubes at a time you can use 4 long silver screws to secure the assembled bracket to PC Board on one cube and 4 black long screws on the other cube if you want all of the screws to match per cube. either way you will have 1 long screw leftover per cube. Then when putting the cube cover back on use the 2 short screws that were the alignment screws that you removed from small aluminum holddown plate so you could mount the brackets.         

Thanks! Please leave me some +Trust! I had cut a few of the factory holddowns like others have done, but that still left the front single mount which is probably the reason that dies 1 and 2 are the first to fail. I was looking for a better way to secure the cooler and came up with this idea and designed it to have rounded corners to allow more room for DC/DC heatsinks. Then when I went to have them made if I only had enough made for my Titans the brackets would have cost twice as much. If I made more that what I needed to make it worth the metal working shops time, the cost was 1/2 as much, so I had the extras made and figured some of you guys would want a better mount also, and wanted to keep the cost down for fellow miners.

You can also apply a addition larger heatsink between the brackets like in the photo below. This lowered the temp a additional 1.25 Degree.

   

All paid orders are shipped out. Please leave me some Trust when you get your order.
I have enough brackets kits for 42 more cubes. If those go quick I will have another 250 made, but it could take 2 weeks.
 
Pm me if you have any questions when you are doing your mods.

Thanks 

Updated 4/13/17)

KNC Titan 4 point cooler kits includes the 2 hold down
 Now with Board Taco Preventer no extra charge  

New Pricing for quantity orders:

1 to 12 units  $10.00
13-24           $ 9.00
25-49           $ 8.50
50-99           $ 8.00
100-199       $ 7.50
200+            $ 7.00  


Additionally I have CD/DC heatsinks available for $1.00 each, or $8 per cube.
 
US shipping $8.50 up to 12 sets priority mail. Above 12 whatever if it fits it ships box priority mail box price.

International shipping extra. price quote to your location. buyer is responsible for any import tax, duty or fees.


I have been running a small DC of Titans, and have designed and manufactured a cooler bracket modification that mounts the cooler to the board in 4 points instead of the current 3 points.
This allows for more stable and even pressure, and has allowed for some flaky dies to start working. It also allows for you to put what ever heatsink solution you want on all of the DC/DC's.
Also your original hold down plate is unmodified, and unused.
This is a simple bolt in modification:
You remove the existing 3 point cooler hold down. Remove the cooler and clean it and the chip for re-pasting.
Remove the 2 alignment screws in the smaller aluminum plate.
Remove the remaining 2 screws that are holding the board down.
Remove and clean the top & bottom of the PC board.
Carefully remove the yellow label on the DC/DC modules, and install your heatsinks from another source. You must install 8 heatsinks. call or email me for suggestions.
Move some of your now now unused thermal pads to better support the bottom of the board.
Reinstall the board carefully making sure to align the 4 holes with the 4 board supports.
Take each of my supplied brackets and screw then to the topside of the small aluminum cooler plate using the 2 short screws that held the PC Board to the cube, and 2 of your case screws.
Re-paste the cooler to chip area with quality thermal paste.
Put 2 of the long screws I provided in the kit, and 2 of the 3 long screws that held down the old mount into the 4 outer holes on the cooler mount brackets, and carefully lower the cooler onto the PC Board aligning the 4 long screws with the 4 mounting holes. It is easier to mount the cooler facing the opposite direction from oem installation, but you can do it either way.
When tightening the screws tighten them in a cross pattern and slightly adjust and confirm that the cooler is squarely on the chip.
Do not over tighten the screws. Tighten them just enough to insure that the cooler does not moving and there is no gap between the chip and cooler form any angle.
the screws I provided are allen wench, but the torx works on them other than to snug, but again tighten evenly and only what is needed so you don't as Lightfoot says "Taco the board"
Test the cube at this point, and make any adjustment if needed. if not needed let the cube run for 10 minutes or so, and then shut down.
While warm apply gentle pressure to the DC/DC heatsinks you installed to insure a good adhesion.
Re-install the cube cover using the 2 screws you removed from the alignment plate to replace the two case screws that you used to mount the brackets.

This cooling solution works equal to, or better that the factory application, but is better at insuring even pressure, and has allowed some dies that drop off, or have needed to be set at a slower speed, to run stady and faster again.
If you want to enhance the cooling more add a additional, or better case fan.
You can also add a additional heatsink to the cooler plate between my brackets under the heatpipe heatsink if you want to.
                                
I am selling these brackets for $10.00 per cube, and $8.50 shipping in USA, more for elsewhere, for up to 20 bracket sets. I am also including 2 black hold down screws in the pictures below for each kit.
When you have reassembled the cube you will have 1 long screw left over.

Anyone who knows me can verify that I have been running multiple Titans for over 18 months. I was active on the KNC forums, and Litecointalk forums.

The first picture is what each cube kit consists of. all of the other parts are with your titan cube now.

 http://s20.postimg.org/o0xbk5nmx/20160401_183109.jpg

 http://s20.postimg.org/styp61qll/20160305_112320_2.jpg

 http://s20.postimg.org/9nli2va3t/20160305_112329_2.jpg

 http://s20.postimg.org/5bwwdv36x/20160305_112621_2.jpg

 http://s20.postimg.org/4jpn0x9m1/20160305_112650_2.jpg

 http://s20.postimg.org/4xqz0itpl/20160305_114504_2.jpg

 http://s20.postimg.org/3ldvcdlnt/20160305_114530_2.jpg

 https://s14.postimg.org/6fvq9ubdt/20161007_090617.jpg    Taco preventer

 https://s9.postimg.org/aovb3rtkf/20161007_090012.jpg       Board Taco preventer

  http://postimg.org/gallery/ldlpfife/

http://imgur.com/vKpw9B7  Heatsinks

http://imgur.com/fhuqCyH Heatsinks

http://imgur.com/Z64O4fg   Heatsinks

I will accept Payment in BTC, LTC, Or Paypal from a verified user to a verified address only.




 

"I did buy some stuff in anticipation of getting a Titan, thermal paste, copper heatsinks, a bi-metal blade for my bandsaw, and some new PSU's.  Most of that stuff is still in route in the mail.  And was looking at the fan upgrade idea.  However I would like a better rig for a starting point to do these upgrades.  I guess I will just have to see how this all shakes out."  

Before you or anyone else cuts the Cooler hold down on the titan cubes, I have designed and had made a cooler bracket modification that mounts to the board in 4 points instead of the current 3 points. This allows for more stable and even pressure, and has allowed for some flaky dies to start working. It also allows for you to put what ever heatsink solution you want on all of the DC/DC's. Also your original plate is unmodified.
This is also a simple bolt in modification, with no cutting or other modification required.
I am selling these brackets for $10.00 per cube, and $7.50 shipping in USA, more for elsewhere, for up to 20 bracket sets. I am also including the black hold down screws in the pictures below for each kit.
Anyone who knows me can verify that I have been running multiple Titans for over 18 months.

Link to Marketplace listing with detailed instructins:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1423042.msg14395660#msg14395660

The first picture is what each cube kit consists of. all of the other parts are with your titan cube now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  http://postimg.org/gallery/ldlpfife/

I obviously will also take payment in LTC/BTC.

PM me with any questions.

Your Welcome :-)

Each miner will include four ASICs featuring a "record-breaking" 2,284 cores each. Each chip will be capable of running 18,727 threads.

Is this the information you are looking for?

I have tried the IBM 2980s server PSUs,  They say that they are Platinum rated but they ended up being less efficient than my ATX PSUs running the same cubes. Also the IBM 2980s were so loud that you could rear them outside with the doors and windows shut. Literally people asked me what that noise was. Also they needed the fans as they run hot. So I sold them. I strongly recommend whether you go with a server or ATX PSUs you go with go with at least Platinum or Titanium if you can find them. Then you should run them at about 50% to 60% of their rated capacity as there highest efficiency is around the 50% mark and fades from there. Running then at about 1/2 load also reduces stress on them and increases reliability. Better PSUs have better cables and connectors. I did see a post where the someone melted the PCI connectors on the 2980 Breakout boards. See my other post on PSUs I have some Rosewill Tachyon 1000 watt 80+ Platinum that have been running for over 12 months straight with 2 cubes on each and they have not had 1 connector go bad or burn, and their fans are not even running at about a 60% to 65% Load. See my other posting on PSUs. I am also working on putting together a Titanium Server PSU solution that will run at 96% if anyone else is interested.   

@ Searing,  Yes but you have been running high end PSUs with your Titans the whole time. I think that makes all the difference.

   

In my experience (17 months running multiple Titans) I have found the burnt connector issue to be a result of a reduction of connectivity more than what speed you are running it the cube at. As some of these connections have been in service for months, or now over a year running 24/7 as the connection looses connectivity it increases in temperature even though the chip is running at its normal operation temperature at 300 Mhz. As the temperature of the connection increases it looses more connectivity taking more and more watts from the PSU to deliver the required power through the bad connection. I have recorded temperatures at over 200 degrees from a "smoking" connection while the cube was hashing fine with normal temperatures. My recommendation is to use only High end PSU preferably 80+ Platinum Rated, and run them at no more than 80% Loading. I have several Rosewill 1000W 80+Platinum PSUs (not really best in class, not fully modular which disappointed me at first but after the connection issues, I have now enjoyed 50% less connections per power wire with them being hard wired at the PSU) running 2 cubes each, so at 65% to 70% of PSU capacity. These 1000 watt 80+ Platinum rated running at 650 to 700 watts run so cool that the fans are not even spinning, while my 80+ Gold and Silver PSUs have ran their fans into the ground at 70 to 85% loads melting connections, and literally catching on fire. You think I am kidding right, exaggerating, being dramatic, No really I mean catching on fire. I had a Gold rated 1200 Watt PSU attached to 3 cubes running at 300 Mhz so a load of 900 to 1000 watts or about a 80 to 85% load. See photo below.

http://postimg.org/gallery/1xkfxyyei/

Obviously I don't put as much loan on the PSU as I did in the beginning. Go Platinum run at less than 80% Load. If you must go Gold run at 70% or less, and if you run Silver run at 60% or Less, if you are going to run Bronze or less I guess you will need to learn for yourself and won't listen to me.  I wish someone would have said to me " You just spent $$$$ on equipment that is going to run 24/7, don't skimp on the PSUs! Just get the best Platinum rated PSUs that you can, and run them as close down to 50% to 60% load as you can. If I would have used Platinum rated PSUs at a 70% or less load to start with over last 17 months just in energy savings with equipment at a 10% greater efficiency I would have saved over $2,000.  

Just my .005769 LTC    

Try running cube 5 with all dies at 150Mhz, and I see you have die 4 undervolted 1 full volt. It wont run that far undervolted. Set it back to the stock -0.0366 setting and see what you get. IF you get any to run you can step up the Mhz as you go to see where they quit working. I would also inspect with a flashlight where the cooler is mounted to the chip to confirm that the cooler is firmly mounted on the chip with no space at all. 

Yes, to be clear I am looking for high efficiency Platinum or Gold 80+PSUs where the PCIE connector on the PSU is melted or damaged and unusable without repairing. The PSU must be working other wise. I will consider any wattage between 500 and 1500 if the price is right.  Thanks.

I am looking for working Platinum,Gold and Titanium 80+ rated PSUs with burnt or melted 6 or 8 pin PCIE connectors. The PSU needs to still be functioning. I am looking for name brand only and would like to buy multiple of the same unit. Looking for EVGA, Rosewill, Zalman, Antec, Seasonic, Thermaltake, Silverstone, and maybe others.
 PM me with what you have and how many maybe also send a few pictures if it sounds like we can work something out. North America only.  I am new on Bitcointalk, but have been on Litecointalk for almost 2 years. There are a few people on here that know me from Litecointalk and would vouch for me. Thanks 

Here is the best, quickest, and easiest way to deal with a burnt connection in my opinion. It also allows about 3/16in additional contact between the power connector and the pins. Sorry its a bit of a hack. and you must absolutely be sure to put the connector on clip side up, ground wires up since the will not be a receiver connector on the board anymore.

The burnt connector will be brittle, and easy to break up with a pair of side cutters. Do it in small pieces until just the very bottom is left. Then pry up gently with a screwdriver to dislodge the 2 plastic retainers and it will slide right off. Then take a piece of 220 grit sand paper to clean up the pins. Clean everything up and carefully push the power connector on the bare pins while using a flashlight to make sure its on right. It will now go further on the pins making a better connection.