Try CKPool at kano.is  They are set up to handle many miners with very few orphans/invalid blocks.  Unfortunately, most are into the bells and whistles of Slush Pool.  If you set up an account at CKPool and log in, you will see they have added quite a few "bells and whistles."  You do not see the new added features until you create an account.  Those features are not marketed on the home page though.  If they were to market all of their features, they might have more miners join.

Also, I've found with previous units that simply pressing "return" (enter) on your keyboard does not "save" the pool settings.  With previous units, I actually had to click "save & apply" in the bottom right hand corner of the miner configuration.  This may have changed with the S7.  I'm not certain of that.

Yes, you should be fine.  The only thing I would keep in mind for the future is if BITMAIN ever comes out with a rig or combination of rigs close to 1800 watts in the future.  Most people have 20 amp circuit breakers in their home on 12 AWG wiring.  However, electricians often install receptacles (outlets) rated at 15 amps instead of 20 amps in the walls of our home.  So, if you ever get a rig or a combination of rigs in the future close to 1800 watts, you may want to consider changing out the outlet from 15 amps to 20 amps on a 20 amps circuit to avoid over heating the outlet itself.

We often believe it's okay to take a 20 amp circuit breaker on 12 AWG wiring to 75% (1800 watts) while not realizing we are maxing out the outlet itself that is normally rated at 15 amps (1800 watts).  If we have a circuit with 12 AWG wire on a 20 amp breaker, we should not assume the outlets are also rated at 20 amps as well.  Such a mistake has the potential to create an electrical fire in the wall at the outlet itself instead of the wiring.  You will first notice this by seeing discoloration of the outlet.  For example: going from white to a beige color.  You will also notice the cord and the outlet are extremely hot to the touch.

I never got into fiber a whole lot.  I know just enough to get me in trouble.  LOL  My father knew a hell of a lot more about fiber than I did.  He's a retired Transmission Engineer from Bell South [Now AT&T].  I used to work for bell south but left there in 1994 to get into art (doing portraits of people in oil).  I got back into telephony in 1997 as a contractor to train telephone technicians.  

It sounds like most of your work has been at both ends instead of the middle.  Most of my knowledge is about the middle (providing maintenance for what connects both ends together for networking, voice, etc...).  Yes, I know a bit about the Central Office (CO) equipment.  I know a bit about carrier equipment [integrated (single ended) and universal (double ended)].  I know a little bit about switchs [5E, DMS, Stromberg, etc...].  

Most of my time has been involved with transmission trouble shooting on copper.  I teach basic electricity and how it applies to the local telephone loop; outside plant engineering design for POTS, ADSL, bonded ADSL, T1 lines with repeaters, HDSL with doublers, etc.  I teach noise mitigation, power influence (longitudinal current); how it radiates into the facility and can convert into noise (metallic current).  Longitudinal Balance testing.

I also teach Fault locating on copper wire with multi meters like the Dynatel 965-AMS and JDSU HST-3000.  I let them know what buttons to press to do what they need to do to identify the trouble and also what to do with the meter to locate the trouble [What should they expect to see electrically when they press a button; WHY should they expect to see that electrically and what is the meter doing on the inside to give them the electrical measurement.  Meaning, HOW does their meter measure voltage, current, resistance, capacitance for opens test, impedance, decibels, frequencies (that flow longitudinally and metallically), how a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometer) locates troubles when measuring time and impedance].  

I teach locating faults on the cable shield as well and not just individual conductors.  How the meter uses a modified version of the wheat stone bridge that's called an Anderson Bridge to locate high resistive shorts, grounds and crosses.  There are many things I teach in different classes ranging from 4-Days to 10-Days.

I owe my father a lot of the credit for the knowledge I have.  I wish I had listened to him a lot sooner in life than what I did.  I did learn quite a bit in the Marine Corp about meters but not specific to telephony meters.  I didn't gain that knowledge until I began working for Bell South.

Good to see another telephony guy on here as well.

Take care, Sir and may the blocks be with you.

David

Go for it with the additional PDU.  Do what you gotta do, within reason.

I hope to get it going soon as well.  First thing to get done will be adding more amps to my existing service.  All in time...

Yes, I agree.  Better safe than sorry!  I only wanted to share my experience with running at 100% myself on PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) insulated wiring.  This is the type of wiring generally used inside a home.  It's the type of wiring I purchased for my setup.   Mine is not inside of walls or conduit.  

PVC wire heat resistance [On a scale from 1 to 5] is 2.  Which means the insulation of the wire would be considered a little below average [or fair] in its ability to withstand heat.  Especially, over long periods of time inside of a non-ventilated space like walls and/or conduit.  Hence, the reason why I've said I would not push this wire over 80% if it's inside of walls or conduit.  The normal temperature rating for PVC wiring can range from 60C, 75C, 90C.  Usually, the temperature rating is noted on the packaging but not always.  My 10 AWG (10/2) wiring is rated at 90C (194F).  Even 60C is 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

When I ran my four (4) 30A circuits on 10/2 PVC wiring part of the summer at 95 to 100 percent, the wire and outlets worked well.  They did not get too hot to the touch at all.  I could keep my hand on them without having to take my hand off.  They felt warm but not hot.  Remind you, my wiring for my rigs is not within walls.  I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing what I did if your wiring is within walls or conduit.  I have since added another 30A circuit to allow me to run my circuits at 80 percent instead of 95 to 100 percent.

The only reason I've mentioned this is to say what the wire is capable of handling if not inside walls and/or conduit.  Am I telling people to do this?  No!  I'm only informing people of what can actually be done with the wire.  I personally believe it would be beneficial to stay on the side of caution by adding an additional circuit(s) to keep them all at 80 percent or lower.  Especially, if your circuits are inside of walls and/or conduit.  I personally, will run my 30A circuits at 85% when I get all of my S7's.  Remind you, my circuits are NOT inside walls and/or conduit.

So, don't think I'm advocating for everyone to run their circuits at 100 percent.  I would say you could if your circuits were not inside of walls and/or conduit but I would only do it for a short time as I did myself.  I put off adding another circuit for approximately 40 to 45 days.  My wiring and outlets performed well and did not get too hot at 95 to 100 percent load until I added another circuit.  That's all I'm saying...

EDIT:  The main reason I would NOT recommend running at 95% or higher on this wiring for a long period of time is because air is a poor insulator.  Without shielding the strands or even solid wire, an electrical potential can over-stress these air voids between the strands or between multiple conductor(s) and the outer shield of those conductors.  This air breaks down or ionizes, going into what's called, corona (partial discharges). This will form ozone and can chemically deteriorate cable insulation over time. If you bought high dollar wiring with semi-conductive strand shielding, It can eliminate this potential by “shorting out” the air.  

I mention this a lot in my training when the subject comes up about using alligator meter clips with a bed of nails that penetrates the insulation to have contact with the conductors for testing purposes.  I explain when the insulation is damaged, an ionization process can occur from exposure to more air [Especially damp air] to emphasize the importance of cutting off the portion of wire they damaged with their meter clips and re-splicing to avoid having potential problems with that circuit in the near future.  Those meter clips with a bed of nails are responsible for many of the opens they have in the local telephone loop.  Most opens begin at a low resistance value and they increase in resistance as the copper wire gets smaller in diameter over time due to this ionization and electrolysis.

http://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clip-Nail-Angled-Medium/dp/B00M1V7E5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447014797&sr=8-1&keywords=bed+of+nails+clip



So, again, I'm NOT advocating individuals load their circuits at 85% or higher OVER LONG PERIODS OF TIME!  I see I need to be more specific when I elaborate on a subject because it can be taken the wrong way at times.  If you are in your initial setup and or install and your wiring is NOT inside walls and/or conduit, one could load their circuits greater than 80 percent without much fear if it's for a short period of time.  The longer your circuits have a load over 80%, the life of the insulation for the circuits can deteriorate over time.  This deterioration can result in the insulation being more susceptible to higher temperatures and thereby reduce its ability to withstand heat over time.

So, if you would like to mine with more rigs but don't have all of your circuits installed yet, you could do so for a short period of time [under certain conditions] until you have the other circuits installed for those rigs to get everything within a 75% to 80% limit.  That's all I'm implying.  I've done this myself while putting my setup together.  Remind you:  MY WIRING IS NOT WITHIN WALLS AND/OR CONDUIT!  My setup is completed now and enough circuits are installed for the amount of rigs I have at present to keep me at 85% or less.  I feel 85% is plenty safe for my install because my install does not have wiring within walls and/or conduit.

When I add more power to my setup for more rigs in the next month or so, I will add enough circuits to keep them around 80% or less.  I'm presently running my circuits at 67%.  Each 15A breaker on my 30A metered PDU's say they are running at 10 amps [Approximately 66/67 percent].  When I get more S7's (batch 6) at 1042 watts each, I will run them at 5 x S7's per 30A PDU.  This will be  72 percent of its maximum.  I would probably be fine with 6 x S7's (batch 6) at 86.6 percent of it's maximum for a short period when it gets close to time for the move to a new location for my setup.

When I do move my setup to another location, I will have every circuit at 80% or less.

If the 10 AWG wire was inside walls or conduit you will want to keep it down to 80%.  Heat generated from the current flow in the wire cannot be ventilated out of a wall or conduit.  Which means there is increased risk of wires over heating and the insulation potentially melting down.  It also depends on the insulation of your wire.  Some insulation will break down [due to heat] faster than others.  Especially, inside enclosed places that lack ventilation [such as, walls and conduit].  Wire that is not inside of walls or conduit can generally be run up to 100% of the rating of the wire.  If you feel safer not running your circuits to 100% if they are not inside walls or conduit, that is fine.  Better safe than sorry!

BY THE WAY, Love the "clean" setup. Are the S7's joined together with the tongue and grooves or just sitting next to one another?

I was seeing the same thing, Rich.  Which has me wondering if the "+10%" is correct.  Meaning, 1042 watts + 10% is also based off of the lowest voltage of 11.6 Volts and not the highest of 13.0 Volts.  At 11.6 Volts the core voltage is 0.77V for 15 strings.  At 12.0 Volts the core voltage is like you said, "0.8V for 15 strings."  

So, it appears they may have kept the original specifications for 162 chips with 18 strings and simply want us to add 10% to those original specifications now that they are using 135 chips in 15 strings.  At least that's the way I'm understanding it at the moment.

Well, if your prediction is correct, I hope these are actually 1,042 watts instead of an additional 10% on top of that.  

However, f it is another 10% on top of that, it's not a deal breaker for me.

I suppose that is possible with Batch 6.  I was looking for them saying, "limited number of them" but I could not find it.  Only time will tell when we see B7, B8, etc...

Not sure if this has already been mentioned in the thread:

BITMAIN did correct the specifications on Batch 6 to say the following:  "5. Chip quantity per unit: 135 x BM1385"

I still find it confusing it says:

2. Power Consumption: 1042 W + 10% (at the wall, with APW3, 93% efficiency, 25C ambient temp)

3. Power Efficiency: 0.25 J/GH + 10% (at the wall, with APW3, 93% efficiency, 25°C ambient temp)

The reason this is confusing to me is because it does not say, "+/-" but only "+"



The BM1385 chip is capable of 32.5 GHS per chip at just 0.216 Watts of power usage per GHS with 0.66V core voltage.

I'm just totally confused at the moment.  Can someone chime in to help me understand if it is 1042 watts at the wall @ 600MHz or 1,146.2 watts (+10%) ??

He's right.  Same thing happened to me.  I simply created a ticket at Bitmain Support and they took care of it.  It took about 24 hours total for the payment to be confirmed via email.  It took another 6 hours for my status in my "Orders" to be changed from "unpaid / unshipped / expired" to "Paid / unshipped / Valid."

I placed my order at 4:59am CST on 11/04/2015.

You're welcome.

This could be the beginning of historical wave 3.  IF it is historical wave 3, it is usually the biggest wave of 5 historical waves.  Each wave normally takes several years.  So, historical wave 3 will last at least to 2018, if not 2021.  We can see Historical wave 3 top out anywhere from $30,000 to $250,000; depending on how many years it lasts.

Hi Fakhoury,

I haven't seen anything posted in a while.  Just checking in to see if all is well with you.  Hope you're alright...

Yes, come on back, Masterluc!!!  

What did Winston Churchill say?  Never, Never, Never give up!!!  

Now's the time you have to get fighting mad and chew the charts a new arss.

Batch 4 and 5 are sold out.

Quite the wild ride sir.
[/quote]

Yes, it is quite a wild ride.  Not to say it won't have it's up's and down's (consolidation moves) while heading upward, cause it will definitely have those kind of moves on the way up.  We had similar moves like this on the way up in November, 2013.

I'm with user100000 regarding "speculation."  He's located on tradingview.com.  Here's a link to his "space" on trading view:  https://www.tradingview.com/u/user100000/

I believe that is what whales with big pockets are counting on:  People who "... find the sweet spot to close his long trades."  Big money has the patience to wait.  They will keep taking this up [Giving opportunities for people to sell at so called sweet spots].  They will be sitting sweet in 2017/2018.  I believe big pockets have decided to jump in now rather than wait until sometime after the new year to accumulate coin.  

This may also be a scheme to pump up to over $2k by May, 2016 and dump to $1.2k.