I arranged for auction to end on Thursday so to allow buyers to escrow or send payment on Friday. I had all hardware boxed and read to ship as I was leaving for the weekend. Payment never materialized from one bidder, and another bidder bidder backed out of auction and decided he doesn't have to pay now.
The second buyer has agreed to buy three miners for 22 BTC and I am waiting for payment to send.
#1 miner I have to sell yet
#3 is still at Cointerrra I received this email on the April 11th
CoinTerra Support (CoinTerra)
Apr 11 15:38
Sir-
I just checked and the unit had been sitting in customs. I am getting it fixed and on the way to us now.
Regards,
Marshall
Soniq, We told you a few times we were in the market for Miners and to contact us IF you were selling any. We could have offered you Much More than you got for these. We also let you know we have Hosting Services that are Secure, Reliable and Cheap. You should have let us know on both these situations. |
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This auction is cancelled as bidder in last auction has come forward and bought all miners. Details to be released once escrow is started
Soniq, We told you a few times we had access to Hosting Services that are Secure, Reliable and Cheap. You should have let us know you were having issues. |
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2^ It seems there is a trigger in the code to not send payments before a threshold. It's 0.01 i suppose. I didn't received anything from Mar 21 2014 transaction too.
That's not the case. |
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My problem with the all O's but not hashing:
My problem turned out to be related to a wifi repeater. After unplugging it, the blade picked right up. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Glad you found the bad actor on the network. Mine was a bad wifi router. Another network-woe-sensitivity data point. Sometimes if a cellphone is hooked to your network/Router there will be sporadic connection. |
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Where are you finding these PSU connectors? I have been looking for them for ages. Are these on digikey?
Find a backplane and ask them to send you all the numbers on the actual black connector IF ANY then search all or part of the number at digikey |
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I believe the blue wire would be a power on signal, you could wire a standard switch between them to have control, the red wire would be voltage sense, so it knows it is on and can regulate the voltage. Hook up as shown and measure voltage on the pads. Hook up some loads to it, if you are going to run cards from it, start with one, check voltage, add another, etc. if you have an amp clamp you can check how much load you are pulling to see if it works well.
OK got it. Could you verify the 6-pin connectors... Are these correct. Do you put power to 1,2&3 and ground to 4,5&6 or do you skip any? http://www.tomshardware.com/gallery/PCI-Express-6-pin-2x3-auxiliary-75W-power-supply-connector,0101-312644-10124-0-0-0-jpg-.htmlhttp://imgur.com/zmgMRnrAwesome site! http://pinouts.ru/ |
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I can confirm that these http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/51762-10802400ABLF/609-4020-ND/1492063are the correct connector for the dps-2000bb power supplies. I'm currently building them into harnesses for the 12 supplies I have here. Can't wait, running these should drop my power supply costs tremendously. I'll be testing current draw on them with a variety of cards, but if other sources are correct, I think 2000+ watts worth of cards can run from each. Imagine 6-7 r9-280x or 10-12 r9-270x per $40 supply!! (plus harness stuff, which I'm making) Could you help me locate the ones for these power supplies.  441830-001 HP 1200W Hot-Plug Power Supply Proliant DL580 HP 1000W Power Supply ProLiant DL360 |
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Anybody had an issue with fuses going bad? I had one melt on cube this morning. I took it apart, cleaned everything out, and then re-assembled it. Everything is working fine now.
I had two separate fuses melt/blow ( 2 separate cubes) after running 24 hours. Replaced them and have not had any more issues. Might just be cheap fuses they were shipped with. Someone also pointed out the PS may not be putting out enough volts so more current is being pulled so you can check the voltage with a volt meter. I am now running three machines on one PS and haven't had any issues for 2 weeks. I got woken up at 5:30am this morning by the sound of my smoke detector going off in my bedroom and the horrible smell of burning plastic. I soon discovered that the fuse on one of my cubes had blown and partially melted. I cleaned it up and replaced the fuse, now that cube won't stay on high mode. I've disconnected and reconnected the 6pin cables and clicked update/restart a few times and it always reverts back to low. Any ideas to get it to stay on high? I would assume those cubes out there that have not had their individual blade 4-heatsink screws tightened when they get into a heavy hashing session could blow the fuses and do damage to either the chips or components and therefore not likely hash on high again. May try to tighten the 4-heatsink screws if have not done so already. |
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Great discussion! I have learned alot about this cube I just got and am trying to get setup. My problem is that my router is a Netgear WNDR3400v2 and every device on my home network has an IP address something like 10.0.0.1 and to make matters worse when I am on the status page of the router it recognizes all the devices on the network with the exception of the cube. Anyone else have experience with the Netgear network?
Thanks,
Kern
Make sure your phone etc are not connected to the wireless feature of the router. Then try again. I find they like a rest after trying to connect with no success. Then try in 30-60 min. |
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So far, I haven't toasted any ATX PSUs yet. Any black pinout (ground) can be used with the Power On pinout (green). [/quote] Good to know. :-) |
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My paperclips just don't look good.
An insulated thermostat wire (18 AWG) works quite well (and looks good). Just make a very small "U" out of it (approximately 3/4" long) and then strip both ends about 1/4". It can be secured further with a tape over it:  Do you have the correct pins? According to this it's the 4thand 5th in. http://www.corsair.com/en/blog/testing-your-corsair-power-supply |
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Looking to buy chips.
IF you are selling please PM me.
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Could any one help me setup my new blade?  https://i.imgur.com/2OBKTkz.png <--- I have tried for hours to try and get this thing to work. it seems i just cant figure out the configuration page! I've tried messing around with various pools, ports, etc. but the most i could get it to do is receive shares but it won't start hashing?! I've got the stratum mining proxy running on my desktop and the blade plugged directly into the router please tell me if that's wrong. i try and tell it to use my local ip 192.168.1.134 on the desktop so the exe will reroute it to the slush pool im trying to connect to but im just stumped and am just seeking help!!! If you anything that you think might help me please post. Also if anyone would maybe wanna Skype or teamviewer to walk me through my errors that be even better! Thanks in advance! |
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The 49-port hubs I received today unfortunately didn't have fuses in them. Though the fuses are on the way in a separate shipment, I can't wait for a couple of days to be able to used them. Upon inspection, it looks like they take automotive blade-type fuses. Is it the Mini Blade fuse? What's the required fuse amp rating for these hubs? I wanna head down to the local auto parts store and get them ASAP.
40 amp Regular in car fuses. Philipma made an observation that the 40 amp fuse it comes with is way too much for the hub, if each miner uses .5 amp and there's 49 ports, max it should draw is 24.5 amps. I got a 30 amp in mine and definitely runs cooler than the 40 amp it came with. The 40 was wicked hot all the time. Going to try a 25 amp and see if that's the sweet spot. Don't want an accidental power spike taking out the hub or all them miners. Thanks for this info. It seems that 25A makes a lot of sense as you alluded. I may have to try it myself; if it doesn't keep blowing up, then it should be good. Can you verify if it's the "mini" size blade fuse? I wouldn't call them the mini's: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_%28automotive%29They're the regular or "ATO" sized fuses. your standard in car fuse for most American made vehicles up until the late 90's. Thank you. Heard when the Erupters get into a heavy hashing session they can draw up to 30-50% more watts. I've not done any testing to confirm. |
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The 49-port hubs I received today unfortunately didn't have fuses in them. Though the fuses are on the way in a separate shipment, I can't wait for a couple of days to be able to used them. Upon inspection, it looks like they take automotive blade-type fuses. Is it the Mini Blade fuse? What's the required fuse amp rating for these hubs? I wanna head down to the local auto parts store and get them ASAP.
40 amp |
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OK didn't had time to send mail to all board orders. Will continue tomorrow. It is really late hire...
Hi Lucko, Did you mail our chips to us? If not could you do so ASAP. Much thanks! |
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