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Author Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup  (Read 440174 times)
dogie
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May 14, 2013, 07:09:51 PM
 #1

Dogie's Miner Setup Guides:
.
Dogie's USB Setup Guides:
.
Dogie's General Guides:


Nicely formatted version available at dogiecoin.com!


Contents:
0a) What type of blade do I have?
0b) What You Need
1a) Powering V1s
1b) Powering V2s
2) Cooling
3) Mounting
4) Configuration
5) Troubleshooting
6) Where to buy


0a) What type of blade do I have? (top)
There are 4 current types of blades in the wild:

V1s batch 1- No overclockable firmware and only 10 were sold into the wild. Made up of 1x hashing, 1x power delivery and 1x ethernet boards.
V1.batch.2-3.5s- All other blades sold at auction. Have overclockable firmware.
V2- One single board, includes a backpane connector and is slightly smaller. No more overclocking as the necessary hardware is removed.
V3 Cube- A great consumer product with no more wiring, cooling or mounting complications.


0b) What You Need (top)
You will need the following per blade:


1) Powering (top)
Blades do not come with a power supply and you will need a typical computer PSU. The limit of how much power we can safely draw is actually due to the
cable diameters - which are only capable of ~10A [18 gauge]. The requirements per blade are:
  • 1xPCI-E 6 pin power connector
  • At least 12A on the/each 12V rail

Estimated power consumption is as follows.

V1 blades:
  • 75W (Low power mode @ 1.05V)
  • 83W (Low power mode @ 1.10V)
  • 100W (Stock @ 1.20V)
  • 120W (Overclocked @ 1.20V)

V2 blades:
  • 100W (Stock)


1a) Powering V1s (top)
V1 B2+ blades come at 1.2V, you will want to run them overclocked and so we need 10A+ per rail/cable strand. I would recommend the following PSUs:
For 4 blades:
(Click.your.flag)
           
For 6 blades:
(Click.your.flag)
           


Blades require manually wiring each cable from the PSU into the blade, and we don't want to cut the PSU's directly in case you need to use it for other
tasks later. Instead, we buy extension cables and cut those. Per blade you need a 6/8 pin PCI-E connector [preferred!!!!], a 4 pin ATX motherboard
connector or TWO molex connectors. Regardless with what you go with, the wire preparation below is the same.



PCI-E extenders:
(Click.your.flag)
           
ATX extenders:
(Click.your.flag)
           
Molex extenders:
(Click.your.flag)
           


We also need to tell the PSU to always be on, as there isn't a motherboard to do this. Cut a paper clip into a U and insert it into the green wire and either
black wire to the side of the green wire. Tape it up for safety. The power supply will now be controlled by its switch on the rear socket.

Remember to plug the fuse in [red disk], either way round will do.

 

Cut the black [ground/-ve] and yellow [12V/+ve] cables at the end of each split, then tape the connectors with remaining red wire [5V] together or
remove entirely. Strip back about 0.5cm from each cable end, with wire strippers or otherwise. I just used household scissors.

Then we will screw them in to the connector provided with the blades. The polarity is drawn on the back of the blade, the black cables are grounds (-ve),
the yellow is (+ve). Depending on which type of connector you are using, there will be multiple of both. Use as many as you can fit, and you can use both
ports for each polarity.

Wire prep for molex connectors. Remember, we still prefer PCI-E or ATX motherboard extenders:
                  

1b) Powering V2s (top)
V2 blades can be plugged into a backpane. The backpane can then be powered as above by two screw terminals [one set for 12V +ve and one for ground
-ve], or by a server PSU:

Server PSU:
(Click.your.flag)
   
For 4 blades:
(Click.your.flag)
           
For 6 blades:
(Click.your.flag)
           


2) Cooling (top)
We want high CFM fans, but also the ability to control them to reduce excessive noise (+power consumption and heat). If you have access to box fans,
use them! They are cheap, easy to move and can cool 4-8 blades at once.

Box Fan:
(Click.your.flag)
     


Else, use the configuration I have, a fan controller per two blades, and 2x120mm fans.

Fan Controller:
(Click.your.flag)
           
120mm Fans:
(Click.your.flag)
           


                                 
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3) Mounting (top)
This is the hardest part for V1 blades. V2 blades should really be mounted on a back panel and V3 are self mounting. I've tried lots of different
configurations for V1 and the one I've found the best is mounting it vertically, using drawers. You'll also need about 5 paper-clips per blade, and maybe 10
long cable ties.

We need to mount the blades vertically as the back of the blades get hot and need cooling to. Its easier to see how I've done it with pictures:



      

Alternatively you could mount them in a frame but this gets more complicated.


      

      

Or even a wind tunnel. [Americans can just buy box fans, us Europeans aren't so lucky Cheesy]


         


4) Configuration (top)
  • Power on as above.
  • Plug in a network cable from the blade to your router.
  • Change your router's subnet to 1, ie 192.168.1.x. This is just temporary. If this is not possible, see below indented steps.
    • Plug in a network cable from the blade to your computer.
    • Disable Wifi if applicable.
    • Navigate to Control Panel -> Network and Sharing Centre -> Change Adapter Settings
    • Right click on your ethernet adapter -> Properties
    • Click on "Internet Protocol Version 4" and click properties
    • Select "Use the following IP address" and enter the following:
    • IP Address: 192.168.1.1, Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0, Default Gateway: 192.168.1.254
    • Resume normal steps.
  • Using a browser, navigate to 192.168.1.254:8000 - this goes to the blades's configuration page.
  • Change the IP to something memorable like .200. If you have multiple blades, connect them one by one and change to .200, .201 etc as you go. If
    you don't you'll have conflicting IPs. You can also change your subnet back now if you want to.
  • Blades use the extinct getwork protocol and so we need to use a stratum proxy. Download the proxy and open the file.
  • On the blade config page, enter the server address the IP of the computer with the stratum proxy on. Enter it twice as the cube needs two pools
    to start mining, ie "192.168.1.102,192.168.1.102". If you are unsure what IP your computer is at, open cmd and type "ipcongif /all".
  • Username and password is for Slush's pool, stick with that for now. Again enter it twice, user:password,user:password.
  • Click update, then navigate back to the IP of the blade you set using a browser.
  • [V1s only] Set clock to high by hitting change clocks.

If you want to change pool, create a .bat file in notepad (save as .bat). Move the stratum proxy to the location below and put the following text inside
for your choice of pool. Change pool port and address for different pools.
_______________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
Antpool Register!
Code:
cd C:\Program Files (x86)\Proxy
mining_proxy.exe -o stratum.antpool.com -p 3333
BTCGuild Register!
Code:
cd C:\Program Files (x86)\Proxy
mining_proxy.exe -o stratum.btcguild.com -p 3333
GHash IO Register!
Code:
cd C:\Program Files (x86)\Proxy
mining_proxy.exe -o us1.ghash.io -p 3333

Configuration should look like this: 



                                 
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5) Troubleshooting (top)

Problem__________________________________________Solution
Three or for "x" in a row on "Chips".- The corresponding power lane does not work or is not supplying enough voltage. Try
measuring each power lane to find the dysfunctional lane and tuning it higher. If it doesn't
work please ask Friedcat to send you a new power module.
More than two "x" scattered on "Chips".- Some of the chips could not work on high clock in the current voltage. Try tuning the
voltage of the whole power module a little higher. If it doesn't work please downclock to Low.
Hashrate turns to zero and all "x".- Either the power module is broken or the whole blade has some problems. If you bought
more than one blade, try using another functional ones' power module to see if it fixes the
problem. If so, ask friedcat to send you a new power module. If not, please return the blade
to friedcat, who will send you a new one and cover shipping costs.
The blade misreports hashrate to a very high number
but hashes at a very low speed.
- Most probably it's a problem with the ethernet controller. Try a hardware reset as shown
below.
If it doesn't work please ask friedcat to send you a new ethernet controller. It may also
be caused by the failure of the hashing board. If so, ask friedcat to send you a new power
module. If not, please return the blade to friedcat, who will send you a new one and cover
shipping costs.
I need to reset my blade.- See diagrams for V1 and V2 blades to find which two pins to short with a paper clip.
My cables are braided or aren't color coded- See below diagram for pin-outs.
I still can't get it to work Sad- Post a screenshot with your blade's configuration page, cmd with ipconfig /all and
your stratum proxy visible.

Legal disclaimer: This information is for general guidance and does not constitute expert advice. We are not responsible if you, your property or a third
party is injured or damaged as a result of any interaction with this information, and no warranty is provided. All text and images are covered by copyright.

6) Where to buy (top)
Blades here,Cubes here, EU Cubes here!

        
 

                                 
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May 14, 2013, 07:21:07 PM
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Nice!

I just bought bunch of 120mm fans after intensive research,  it's great to see some nice cooling setup Cheesy

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May 14, 2013, 07:25:58 PM
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Question :
Based on your experience, what does the package contains next to the blade ? I know it dosent have PSU, that makes sense; but does it have the connector to power the board ? Ethernet cable ?

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May 14, 2013, 07:34:53 PM
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Question :
Based on your experience, what does the package contains next to the blade ? I know it dosent have PSU, that makes sense; but does it have the connector to power the board ? Ethernet cable ?

Package contains the mining board, the power delivery board, the network unit, the strange unknown red things, 2x40mm fans, the screw in power adapter like in the pictres. No ethernet cable.

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May 14, 2013, 07:38:57 PM
 #5

Question :
Based on your experience, what does the package contains next to the blade ? I know it dosent have PSU, that makes sense; but does it have the connector to power the board ? Ethernet cable ?

Package contains the mining board, the power delivery board, the network unit, the strange unknown red things, 2x40mm fans, the screw in power adapter like in the pictres. No ethernet cable.

ah, so it has a power adapter ... good because i dindt found any around here

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May 14, 2013, 07:48:48 PM
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Yessssh, thank you soooo much!
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May 14, 2013, 07:52:52 PM
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Did you manage to get a tester with LCD display as in the lower right part of the photo? Any kind of temperature measurement?


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May 14, 2013, 07:54:33 PM
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Did you manage to get a tester with LCD display as in the lower right part of the photo? Any kind of temperature measurement?



No, and not sure what that is. Looks like a debug board for stress testing. In the place of that one we have a network card.

Temps are cool to the touch if you get the cooling right, and hothothot if you don't.

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May 14, 2013, 09:00:08 PM
 #9

Yeah the LCD board looks like for internal testing.  Would be pretty cool to get our hands on them though Smiley

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May 14, 2013, 09:14:47 PM
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the strange unknown red things

These are 10A fuses.
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May 14, 2013, 09:30:38 PM
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so for 1 blade i need 4 black wires and 2 yellows ?

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May 14, 2013, 09:53:18 PM
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so for 1 blade i need 4 black wires and 2 yellows ?

You need enough positive and negative wires to safely meet the boards power requirements. People are combining multiple black/yellow wires in parallel because typically single cables from an ATX PSU aren't of a sufficient gauge to carry the current that the board demands. Too much current down one wire means the wire gets hot and.. perhaps bad times.

I don't understand why the OP has 4 black and 2 yellow, there's no benefit to running additional wires on only one side of the supply.

One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.

While good intentioned and with some useful information regarding vertical mounting and cooling, there's a lot of misinformation around how to most safely power these boards across this thread and others. Detail the specifics of your proposed configuration and ask questions if in doubt. Above all, be safe - wires feeling too "warm" (think would you feel safe with a mains extension lead at that temperature) may suggest something that isn't suitable to be run 24/7 for months on end as these blades inevitably will be.

I didn't intend to scaremonger, honest! Smiley
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May 14, 2013, 09:56:50 PM
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Question :
Based on your experience, what does the package contains next to the blade ? I know it dosent have PSU, that makes sense; but does it have the connector to power the board ? Ethernet cable ?

Package contains the mining board, the power delivery board, the network unit, the strange unknown red things, 2x40mm fans, the screw in power adapter like in the pictres. No ethernet cable.

The strange red thing (disc) is the Fuse.! ;-)

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May 14, 2013, 09:58:37 PM
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so for 1 blade i need 4 black wires and 2 yellows ?

You need enough positive and negative wires to safely meet the boards power requirements. People are combining multiple black/yellow wires in parallel because typically single cables from an ATX PSU aren't of a sufficient gauge to carry the current that the board demands. Too much current down one wire means the wire gets hot and.. perhaps bad times.

I don't understand why the OP has 4 black and 2 yellow, there's no benefit to running additional wires on only one side of the supply.

One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.

While good intentioned and with some useful information regarding vertical mounting and cooling, there's a lot of misinformation around how to most safely power these boards across this thread and others. Detail the specifics of your proposed configuration and ask questions if in doubt. Above all, be safe - wires feeling too "warm" (think would you feel safe with a mains extension lead at that temperature) may suggest something that isn't suitable to be run 24/7 for months on end as these blades inevitably will be.

I didn't intend to scaremonger, honest! Smiley


so i should try first with 1 black and 1 yellow ?

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May 14, 2013, 10:22:00 PM
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I don't understand why the OP has 4 black and 2 yellow, there's no benefit to running additional wires on only one side of the supply.

One of the first round auction winners had an 'issue' when spreading inputs across the two terminals, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvAFBWHGw58.


No no no no no! Look at the video, he had two separate 12V inputs, two single grounds in both of the -ve ports. His solution was to double up the cables using one port only. In fact this has no electrical impact if the board is behaving as it should be. In my setup I have double grounds on BOTH ports, effectively reducing the cable load on the neutrals by 50% from his 'fixed' configuration.

In my configuration the wires are room temperature.

so i should try first with 1 black and 1 yellow ?

Look what you've started with YOUR misinformation, a user now understanding that they should use as few cables as possible, an extremely dangerous proposition.

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May 14, 2013, 10:35:08 PM
 #16

Nice tutorial for newcomers. Just one thing:

Change the port to something useful like .200
you meant IP?

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May 14, 2013, 10:37:33 PM
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so i should try first with 1 black and 1 yellow ?

Look what you've started with YOUR misinformation, a user now understanding that they should use as few cables as possible, an extremely dangerous proposition.

dogie,
you should consider to add a BIG DISCLAIMER to the OP Smiley

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May 14, 2013, 10:43:44 PM
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Uhm, these fans can get quite noisy.

I don't think I want to run a cable from where I will put them and my router, so I will have to buy a wifi bridge, small ethernet hub and a bunch of Cat5 cables. It's going to be always xmas in my room Cheesy

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May 14, 2013, 10:45:15 PM
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Nice tutorial for newcomers. Just one thing:

Change the port to something useful like .200
you meant IP?
Ty

dogie,
you should consider to add a BIG DISCLAIMER to the OP Smiley
Done

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May 14, 2013, 10:46:25 PM
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Uhm, these fans can get quite noisy.

I don't think I want to run a cable from where I will put them and my router, so I will have to buy a wifi bridge, small ethernet hub and a bunch of Cat5 cables. It's going to be always xmas in my room Cheesy

That's why I've recommended a fan controller. I have 2 (soon to be 4) blades no more than a metre above my bed and the passive wind noise from outside is louder than the fans - yet the heatsinks remain cool to the touch.

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