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Looking for the LxWxH of an individual blade for some cooling purposes.
Thanks.
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2.2 shoots the hardware error rate up no matter what on all my miners. Anyone have success without volt mod? Resistors arrive tomorrow so we'll see how fast they go with more volts.  |
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Can anybody advise?
If using merged mining for namecoins will it be solo mining for namecoins or will it interact with other nodes?
Solo Sheesh... almost need p2pool introduced for each of the altcoins... bitparking probably has more than 51% of them, right? |
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Tomoatocage has added negative trust, I think he has default trust so tealover should show red to everyone now.
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ok
New results from overclocking attempts:
I upgraded my 4 Anminers with 10K and 2.5K Resistors, and connected only one antminer first.
Finaly i managed to get very stable 2,4-2,5 GHS from one miner.
The overclocking procedure is not straight forward.
The antminer SilLab microcontroller seems to store some kind of calibration table , which he uses to control PWM of the DC/DC converter and adjust the voltage for TXO ( Frequency).
After you change the voltage output of the DC/DC converter those calibration values didn't match with reality, so you just cant start with high frequencies, the error is too high.
Instead start with lowers GHS possible: 1.4 GHS.
Wait until it stabilize, and increase the frequency by one value.
Step by step I managed to run Antimner at 0B81, which gave me about 2,5 GHS.
After i plugged the second calibrated miner into USB3.0 HUB (4A max), the speed of the 1st miner gone to 2.1 GHS, and the second one gave 1.9 GHS. The third miner just gone zombie...
Seems like there is not enough power? But funny enough I got the same 2.5 GHS result from USB2.0 PC port.... so current shouldn't be a problem here, probably....
I am, not quite sure WTF is wrong with AntimnerU1. Maybe some kind of connection/synchronisation errors with cgminer...
I tried to run BFG miner, but it couldnt find any device at all....even after i deinstall zadig drivers.
Moreover CGMINER cant find a device directly from USB3.0 (my USB3.0 hub is connected to the USB2.0 Port) port.
I will purchase a PCI USB2.0 extension card with separate powersupply from the main PSU. Costs only 10 Euro, so i give it a try, in case there is not enough current...
Where did you get your resistors (what part #s?) and how did you adjust the frequency once cgminer was running? Thanks |
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Using the formula listed in the manual, can you simply leave the R1 resister and solder a 4.7k to R2 for .97v or a 3.3 for 1.04v?
Also, will the regular radioshack resisters work, or do you need to use the tiny SMD resistors?
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Ok guys. I tried to overclock Antminer u1 according to the official guide. I replaced resistors to 10K and 4.7K, to set the voltage near 1.2V ( I am sure the exact R Value is not necessary) As result I couldn't set any operating frequency with "nonce timeout" Error.  Then I replaced the R1 to 3.5K, that allowed me to use Antminer at 225 MHZ (all frequencies over it caused nonce timeout). Instead of getting 1.8 GHS I got about 2.3 GHS but too much HW, so I lowered R1 to 1.5K. That allowed me to run Antminer at max. 250MHZ, but getting again about 2,3 GHS with acceptable HW rate.Still the miner got pretty hot, so i replaced the resistors back to the original state. I also tried to vary Timeout parameter by setting it to higher values(from 20 to 100), that allowed me to start Antminer at R1=3.5K R and 250MHZ, but still it acted VERY weird. The "work" LED was permanently "ON" and the miner delivered only hardware errors. Can anyone explain my WTF? Who the hell posted this PDF with overclock instruction? What am i doing wrong? PS The test U1 was powered through USB3.0 Hub with max output current of 4A. USB 3 was acting weird for me w/these. It sounds like cooling might be an issue for you. You can leave these heatsinks on and add another heatsink to them for extra cooling.... or just a large piece of metal. Mind showing pics of the resistors soldered? I have the big resistors but I don't think I can get them on such a small lead. |
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Looking for 0.5, I can do instant bank transfer if you have a capital one account or a 24-hour transfer with regular account, or paypal.
I am on otc (eroxors), have heatware under freezepc, and lots of successful trades on this forum.
Thanks!
E
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Still available. Looking for $120 shipped OBO.
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My 5% stake is still for sale. I will take the best offer, whatever it might be as long as it's worth my time to print, revise, scan and e-mail the new contract. One buyer has reneged, another is not communicating any more.
I would really like to get this off of my plate. Any/all offers considered. Offer .00000001 BTC, pm if your interested.  |
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tealover is back and active, thehun now owns this debt, but I thought I would bump the thread... are scammer tags still being handed out?
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The US server now has the new code, which doesn't disconnect on coin switches. It's bugged to have 1% extra rejects, which show up as "duplicate shares".
This is great news. Is the ETA until bug fix still Sunday? I never heard back from you after I paid for a video card. Card never came. You didn't log back in or respond. I auctioned the debt to someone else on the Forums, you still owe them a half bitcoin. In my book, you're a scammer. Mods thought that your account was a shill account. Please PM me if you are interested in resolving this issue, I can connect you with the owner of this debt. Thanks. |
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Probably just another "mental breakdown," he'll be back in a few weeks.
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Anyone know what happened to John K?
The Mods might have a good idea, you could post something in Meta asking. |
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How much power is this pulling from the port at default voltage?
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So, I realized that I had an old aluminum heatsink from some old desktop. Hacksawing that thing into pieces is a LOT more work than I thought, but I started, so I have to finish.
What is the best way to secure a piece to an U1? Is there a thermal paste/glue? Gorilla Glue? Elmer's? A thin slice of ham? Stagnant Hellman's Mayonnaise?
Thoughts anyone?
(I'm going to go have a sandwich. I feel like one for some reason now.)
The cheap way to do it is four small dots of super glue in the corners and your choice of thermal paste thinly applied to the rest of the surface. Regular Mayo performed better than several name-brand thermal grease's in a roundup a few years ago. The expensive way is thermal epoxy... by arctic silver or some other brand. I mix mine "light" with half epoxy half regular grease (1 part A, 1 part B, 2 parts grease) so that it could be removed easily. To remove the heatsink, place in freezer for several hours, then pry off. Good luck, post pics. |
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I have an unwanted video card for sale (wrong product, don't want to pay %15 to RMA). It's unopened.
XFX Radeon R7 260X Core Edition R7-260X-ZNJ4 Video Card - 1GB DDR5
Looking for BTC0.16 shipped.
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