pekatete
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February 15, 2015, 10:51:37 PM Last edit: February 15, 2015, 11:12:35 PM by pekatete |
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As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard. I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded. Tot that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated. 94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along. Thanks for clarifying and I hope you won't take it personal to learn that none of your assertions bear out. 1. There are NO components being sandwiched. The "plastic" simply holds the connector (to ease unplugging) and the PSU switch. 2. The "plastic" is not voltage rated but it is fire rated, and I can confirm to you that it is fire retardent with a high enough combustive temperature. PS. Any pointers on the 750W PSU connector ...?
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pmorici
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February 15, 2015, 11:34:54 PM |
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As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard. I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded. Tot that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated. 94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along. Thanks for clarifying and I hope you won't take it personal to learn that none of your assertions bear out. 1. There are NO components being sandwiched. The "plastic" simply holds the connector (to ease unplugging) and the PSU switch. 2. The "plastic" is not voltage rated but it is fire rated, and I can confirm to you that it is fire retardent with a high enough combustive temperature. PS. Any pointers on the 750W PSU connector ...? 94V has nothing to do with voltage ratings. It is a UL flammability standard. What ever you want to call it it is in contact with pieces that are carrying high current and can get hot but if you've checked the specs on your material and you are satisfied then good. Don't have the exact connector p/n off hand but I've used 51915-176LF and then hack it down to the correct size with a saw and glue it back together with some epoxy. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94
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pekatete
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February 15, 2015, 11:43:30 PM Last edit: February 16, 2015, 12:19:43 AM by pekatete |
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As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard. I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded. Tot that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated. 94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along. Thanks for clarifying and I hope you won't take it personal to learn that none of your assertions bear out. 1. There are NO components being sandwiched. The "plastic" simply holds the connector (to ease unplugging) and the PSU switch. 2. The "plastic" is not voltage rated but it is fire rated, and I can confirm to you that it is fire retardent with a high enough combustive temperature. PS. Any pointers on the 750W PSU connector ...? 94V has nothing to do with voltage ratings. It is a UL flammability standard. What ever you want to call it it is in contact with pieces that are carrying high current and can get hot but if you've checked the specs on your material and you are satisfied then good. Don't have the exact connector p/n off hand but I've used 51915-176LF and then hack it down to the correct size with a saw and glue it back together with some epoxy. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94I suppose there are different standards' names applied for different territories (which can be compliant with internationaal standards), but seeing it is a flammability standard, the "plastic" I use is sourced in the EU and complies with / achieves UK fire / flammabilty levels ... aka high combustive temps. On the connector, I'll pass on the saw hacking bit and wait for the PSU .... introducing foreign material in the shape of epoxy resin to the composite connector may compromise its flammability capability ..... if they make the receptacle, they certainly make the connector!
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sidehack (OP)
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February 16, 2015, 01:50:56 PM |
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As has been mentioned several times before, that part will not work on the 750. Power blade spacing is wrong.
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microzee
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March 26, 2015, 02:52:15 PM |
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pekatete
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March 26, 2015, 03:01:11 PM Last edit: March 26, 2015, 03:20:04 PM by pekatete |
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That has the same FCI connector as the 750W supply so the link to the above pdf applies ... i.e available from Mouser EDIT: If you are going to use that PSU for powering a bitcoin rig, you'll have to drive some air through it as it does not have an in-built cooling fan thus under load it will cut out.
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sidehack (OP)
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March 26, 2015, 03:16:43 PM |
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Sure enough, it appears to be a 0.2" blade spacing so the same socket ought to work.
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transcyberian
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April 05, 2015, 08:01:00 AM |
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Has anyone developed a breakout board with the ability to adjust output voltage ? Not sure how useful this would be (or which PS's have that on the backplane) for underclocking miners but it would be a neat feature. Another add-on would be a dual led volt / amp meter integrated into the breakout board. Just sayin'
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sidehack (OP)
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April 05, 2015, 02:36:30 PM |
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All my boards are designed for integrated current measurement. But people (especially in Bitcoin) are cheapskates and usually didn't want to spend the extra three dollars for a feature that wouldn't get used.
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scyth33
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October 08, 2015, 02:19:40 AM |
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Does anyone know what's the pin to turn on dps-1520ab psu?
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zOU
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November 30, 2015, 11:12:53 AM |
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hello guys, I have a pair of dual power supply (redundant) theyre' YM-4032A, 350W per PS (so 2x350W per pair) they have a 92mm connector, with the following pin out the power distribution board to which they are connected using a Sullins EZC35DCWN connector has a standard single ATX 24p, with 3 "thick" 12v cables (2x top right, 1x bottom left): each PSU is rating for 12V/30A: Would they be useful at all ? (I'm waiting for a couple of S3, and I was wondering it 1 pair would support 1 S3) Or the W / A rating are too low for anything ?
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Mikestang
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March 10, 2016, 12:46:37 AM |
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This is the thread linked in the H/w Hosting Directory & Reputation thread for sidehack hosting, so just posting here to follow up with my pm sent earlier. I am interested in having 1 unit hosted when you have space available, thanks.
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toptek
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March 10, 2016, 02:04:16 AM |
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i know you have your reason why no pcie plugs and why i ask i know you know wtf you are doing . why i ask is it safer with out them your design is awesome as well i have one of your break out boards it is nice as well > just wondering more why for safely reason ?.
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sidehack (OP)
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March 10, 2016, 02:37:13 AM |
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I didn't put PCIe plugs on my boards because I don't like being limited. A good solid screw terminal, well heck you can put whatever you want on it. And cables are cheaper too. Unfortunately people really like to have things quick and easy these days, instead of good and flexible. Here in a couple weeks I'll have a batch of dual-purpose boards that work for DPS800 and the DPS1200 (HP common slot) family PSUs, which can be built with screw terminals or 6-pin jacks.
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toptek
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March 10, 2016, 01:32:44 PM |
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Thanks
cya
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dunand
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March 10, 2016, 02:23:58 PM |
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I didn't put PCIe plugs on my boards because I don't like being limited. A good solid screw terminal, well heck you can put whatever you want on it. And cables are cheaper too. Unfortunately people really like to have things quick and easy these days, instead of good and flexible.
100% agree. With screw terminals cables are a lot cheaper. You can cut the cable the length you want. No need for flimsy molex tools to built them.
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sidehack (OP)
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March 10, 2016, 02:44:31 PM |
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Or the not flimsy incredibly expensive molex tools.
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