With coupon I can buy one shipped for 960. Can you do better then that I would be interested.
you will pay COD and taxes on that though. |
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So basically it's a fire sale instead of a giveaway.....
no, its free stuff that you can only get if you pay for it... that said, i do like the white-on-black "miner tshirt' (skull version) |
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the price of bitcoin donot change a lot recently, so there is no much proifit on arbitrage
currently the profit is only 0.15% so far
but i will keep my words and pay at least 1% interest
its understandable - without some volatility theres not much room for arbitrage |
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so i finally got around to soldering 2 boards into one. i took off the 1st and 31st chip. so in total there is 61 chips. when i go to set freq all chips seems to report back. it hashes 80ghs-90ghs for a little and then slowly drops, it shoots alot of hw errors. im thinking its a timing/clock issue.
You are the man! Yes you are right, it is a timing issue as the timings are for a chain of 32 chips. I'd hazard a guess that if you set it to a fraction of the timing you have for the frequency you are running at, then you'll have less HW errors and a hash-rate improvement. Once again, YOU are the man and well done for taking one for the rest of us mere mortals! EDIT: Any chance of photo's of the mod on both boards? That will be super. Also, (and I am sure you can handle this), but if you want some input on the timings that you can try, could you advise what freq you are running the boards at? my experience was that at lower voltage/frequencies, timing needs to be higher or yout et a lot of 'x' chips (seems to be the chips further down the chain in my experience). Of the 4x S1 units i have, if i set timeout to 70 or greater theres no hashing and the unit beeps. 55-65 timeout is most effective for undervolted gear |
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if you are running at a freq of 250, there's no harm at all in notching it up to 262.5 since it is the same voltage setting (and thus same wattage draw only run faster!)
higher frequency, same voltage = higher wattage draw. w/gh will not change significantly, but the power raw at the wall will increase (almost) linearly with the frequency at any specific voltage If you insist on splitting hairs, then it'd be best to be exact on how much more (specific) wattage draw there is between freqs 250 and 262.5 at the suggested 0.75V Cant say for sure, but it would be approximately 262.5/250 = 5% higher. difference between ~400W and ~420w |
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Hi,
I have a toughpower 1200W gold. It has one rail. I tried several different ways of plugging in the cables, I tried 4 different cables, and since each cable has two connecters I tried it with just two cables in four slots. Nothing happens
I tried powering just two cards, still no joy.
With the case off, the only light on is a blue light that flashes it is very fast it might be several lights in sequence.
With the Ethernet unplugged there are no Ethernet lights, when it is plugged in either on my network or on my laptop not on the network the red and green light flash.
I tired it on a coolmaster 750 from the S3 just to see if it would work same thing, it never seems to try to boot.
On the cool master it draws 150 watts at the wall. I reported it to Bitmain and they sent be a diagram of how to hook up the cables one on each card. I had that part correct.
Thanks
Barbara
can you SSH? sounds like a controller issue - heres what id try: 1) open the unit, check all cables are seated. eject and re-insert the SD card. Test. 2) unplug 3 hashing boards (from both power and the controller). Test 2b) if not, try with it powered/plugged to another singular card. Test 3) buy a new micro-sd card and format/image it with the newest firmware. Test. get a class-10 card. usually miners are shipped with crappy class-4 or class-6 cards that can have its data corrupted or even cause the card to be un-formatable. Ive seen this in the S2 which uses the same controller. This is most common |
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you mayhave better luck in the actual spondoolies thread. generally speaking, you can do it two ways:
1) via the web interface - you can adjust the starting/max voltage and the peak power draw allowed per pcie connection (be careful over 250W, as you might burn up thiner wiring on some power supplies)
2) via ssh - this is more for in-depth tuning, and not for beginners
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Hi,
I have not had any luck getting my new C1 running. I have worked with liquid cooling before that is all well and good.
First I am running a 1200W Termaltake PS with 8 PCI plugs, so I have power.
The instructions for the cooling says to plug it in inside the box, I open the box and well there are no pci plugs in there.
So on here somewhere I read to use a plug on the C1 and only 4 power cables, So I put only 4 plugs and try to start the miner. I plug the cooling system into one of the available ports on the C1
I have a s3 so I know that the red light comes on when it is booting then the green light when it is hashing.\
The red light does not come on, the green light does not come on,
The green and yellow lights on the Ethernet cable are flashing that is all.
I am unable to contact it via the interface/ Since its not running that is not surprising.
Sometimes there is a blue light coming through the reset whole. sometimes just a red light from inside the case.
My watt meter says I am drawing a whole 109 watts at the wall. The fan and the pump are running but the fan inside the C1 is not running
Suggestions
Barbara
What is the exact PSU model? Most thermaltake units have multiple 12V rails, and if you run all ~850W load of the C1 on a rail equipped with less than 80A you will likely have problems. Try powering just 2-3 blades (one of which powers the control board) and see if that works |
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It probably won't be quite as straightforward to run as an S1, but... actually, I bet it will be if I can cgminer it. The VRMs are the same 53355DQP as the S1, S2, Cube, AM-V1 and a bunch of other hardware use, so I already know everything required to do the work. Just gotta find the time.
I would be inteested to know if the AM-V1 can undervolt, same with rockminer gear. MY EXPERIENCE WITH ROCKMINER VOLTAGE (relevant to rk-box and r3):The regulator on these boards is not marked, but looks just like a TPS53355 seen on Antminer S1/S2 and Bitfury boards. However, it is arranged differently, without the same placement of R1/R2 that are used for raising/lowering voltage. (aplying pencil to R1 raises voltage, R2 decreases voltage). In the case of rockminer, no resistors were acessible that would reduce the voltage when resistance was reduced. only the oposite was seen - increase in voltage when R1 and R2 were simultaneously modded. physical replacement of the resistors would be the only solution i think looks a lot like the TPS53355 regulator in this picture, with two resisters right by it - if so should be quite easy to pencil mod http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps53355.pdf - look at the bottom image on page 7, the reference on page 20, and figure 38. TLDR; Pin 1 has two resistors on it, R2 goes to ground and R1 goes through a small circuit. The choice of values for these gives the output voltage. This is how the Bitfury overvolts, and how the S1 can over/undervolt. looking at the rockminer PCB (would love a high-def image of the section), this is the solution to undervolt for efficiency:  some pencil lead on R2 increases the output voltage, while lead on R1 would decrease it. Presumably the efficiency could be brought closer to the 0.7w/GH achieved by the prisma this way *note*: Im basing this on a blurry image and dont have a PCB in front of me to confirm that Pin 1 is the right corner of the chip, but the positionng of the two resistors like that seems logical. hopefully ill try myself on monday evening update: I brought a unit home, and am unable to determine any markings on the regulator component. looks an awful lot like the TPS5355 though, and as there arent many >20A alternatives I would assume that it is. however, my expectations were not correct. pencil modding either R1 or R2 (or any other resitor in the vicinity of the regulator) has no visible effect. It appears that R1 and R2 in my above image are both brought to ground together. HOWEVER - I made an interesting discovery - pencil modding BOTH R1 and R2 results in the output voltage increasing, with 1.15V achieved quite easily using a 2B pencil (stock is 0.75V). Obviously this is the opposite of my intentions though. UPDATE 2: Partial destruction of R1 and R2 (chipping the sides of the resitors with a sharp tool) so that each is roughly 3.3kOhm when measured in circuit results in a regulator output voltage of 0.6V Testing now -> preliminary results are mediocre at best - 16GH. However, its worth noting that this unit has always been a source of problems, and that two other boards in it report 25GH and 58GH, neither of which were modified in anyway. Not sure if its a USB hub issue, RPI, or maybe even something to do with the server PSU (providing 12.03V) UPDATE 3: replaced a controller on a different board that was causing reboots and often not functional -> 110GH,90GH, 105GH, 70GH. Obviously there is quite a spread here but it seems like the modified board is functional. Because of difficulties operating (or lack of) at 0.6V, pencil mod was added to increase the voltage to 0.7V on the modified (70GH) board. Reject rate is 6.5% at 300MHz UPDATE 4: 12hr stats: 112,112,111,66 GHash across the 4 boards, with the 65GH board being the one i modified. Total reject % is 4.3. TLDR; Pencil mod is not easily implemented on the RK-Box. reduction of chip voltage to 0.7V significantly impacts hashrate, and voltage below 0.65V is often non-functional. No efficiency numbers available yet |
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if you are running at a freq of 250, there's no harm at all in notching it up to 262.5 since it is the same voltage setting (and thus same wattage draw only run faster!)
higher frequency, same voltage = higher wattage draw. w/gh will not change significantly, but the power raw at the wall will increase (almost) linearly with the frequency at any specific voltage |
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Hi Gang,
Have a little issue.
I just got my sp20 this week. I had a S1 w/ fortress 750 psu. So when my sp20 came I clocked it way down so I can run it with my 750w. It has been running fine @ 1.3TH but today my fortress 650 arrived. I hooked it up with the 750 and logged in to bump setting all the way up, just to see what happens. It now shuts itself down every time I turn it on. The psu are still on but it seems its in some sort of protection mode. When I switch the powers off then on again the fan on the sp 20 goes on a few secs, then off, then back on (like the normal startup) off again, then never then doesn't come back, I've tried multiple times. Any suggestions? I was thinking I screwed up a setting and had to reset but how can I do that if It won't stay on? any help would be great. Thanks
if you have two different power supplies connected to the same pcb they will 'fight' eachother over any differences in the 12v (say 12.2v vs 11.9v) or ground signals. this would certainly cause shutdowns/power cycling/damage to the PSU and/or sp20 |
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I haven't yet gotten out a wattmeter, but I have 4 units stable at resistance of 2.05-2.15 kOhm, or about 0.74-0.77V. 193-212 MHz gives 93-112GH per unit
Could you share your values for 193mhz please? I can get the two I re-applied graphite on to hash at the 212mhz but get dead chips at 193mhz. Im also still getting ~130w at the wall on each unit and hashing ~100gh at .76V and 212mhz. Nothing I do seems to get me any closer to 1.19w/gh, so any help would be greatly appreciated. tbh i have had the same troubles with frequencies below 200MHz - they just dont handle well and i see lots of dead chips. i dont think its a voltage issue, but rather something related to the controller. at 200MHz timeout values as high as 60-65 are required, and timeout of 70+ results in no hashing at all (for any frequency - not sure if this is replicable using the cp2102 and a newer cgminer) tbh, 200-212.5mhz is more stable for me, and I run them at about 2.05-2.20 kohm (0.74-0.77V) |
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you gave me possible solutions, but not what i asked for, that is the difference...
If you know what you are asking for, why ask in the first place? omg.. really?? ok, asking everyone else ... What was the engineering difference between S3 and S3+ Since pekatete seems inclined to be useless - here's my understanding: I *beleive* the difference had something to do with the dc/dc regulators being either sub-par or of a lower rating in the s3. As a result, power to the chips was inconsistent at higher clockrates |
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..
And FUD? Read at the beginning of the thread.
Right now you can get GHS at 0.0011/GHS with no maintenance fees and timely payments. People are excited about it and buy aggressively. Anyone who wants to wait for pictures, videos ect. will wait and buy later on. All good. the price is 0.0013/ghs not 0.0011/ghs 0.0011/GHS if you order 2000GHS or more or if you apply for a VIP code here. Contract from 13-11-2014 18 GH/s 0.00381690 BTC so far! Sweet! And if you buy 2000gh for 2.2btc, become a vip, and then create a second account that buys 100th at 110btc, your first account can get 9% of that via referals code. Unless I'm missing something, that means you can acquire this cloud mining for as low as 1.01btc/th with no fees. Doesn't make sense, and theres no proof that the hardware exists. It seems like a ponzi with the guise of bitcoin mining. |
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Are you drunk or what? You asking about plug on your PSU but you post picture of your power cable.
BRO, JUST BECAUSE HE USES CAPS LOCK AND MAKES NO SENSE DOESNT MEAN HES DRUNK 1) NEMA 15 is the plug that goes into a 110V socket. 2) nema 13 is the plug end shown in the picture 3) nema 14 is the receptacle on the PSU. It is the same receptacle on virtually every single ATX power supply, with the rare exception of a nema 20 for heavy duty 220V 4) he took a picture of the cord, which is 100% compatible witht he described power supplies. @OP: connect the cord end you took a photo of to the receptacle (its a similar-shaped hole on the PSU). The other end of the cord fits a socket on the wall with a similar shape. |
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Ok i have no idea how to insert picture, but mine is
Temp: 23c / 72.66
Fan speed: 90
Start Voltage 0.69 / 0.69 / 0.69 / 0.69
Max Voltage 0.75
Max Watts 288 / 288 / 288 / 288
Mining rate atm 1598.04Ghs
i think i will need to find a good idea to cool the room more when i have my other units running.
drop those settings fan 90 try 0.69/ 0.69 / 0.68 / 0.68 max voltage 0.72 max watts 240/240/240/240 see what you hash with that. +1. If youre using 288 and getting bad temperatures its because the chips throttle back if they get too hot. |
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They might use 16nm chip for S5 and push down the watt per gh/s down to like 0.2.
If they use 14nm/16NM FinFet then we won't have to deal with those swedish KnC Fudges, or risk having the building torched by some super heated Spondoolies Tech rig. IMO this is too soon for that. It may be likelier that this is just a revised 28nm design, such as using larger cores or multi-cored subrates (like a hashfast chip). This sort of redesign would allow for small changes to improve where unexpected losses were seen in gen1. (similar to the asicminer BE300 being an improved 28nm design on the 28nm BE200) If i had to guess, a 0.3w (power-saving mode) to 0.5w (turbo mode) chip is likely. Alternatively, the S5 might just use more of the 28nm chip undervolted slightly inside an S3-sized enclosure; similar to how the S4 uses 5xS3 worth of chips, but all undervolted slightly for a ~0.1w/GH improvement on power use (ie: down to 0.6-0.7w/GH to compete with the spondoolies Sp20) |
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It was pretty clear to the several people who answered you. Maybe it's your reading comprehension skills that you should work on, rather than recommend Rosetta Stone for others?
A lot of the nagging bitcointalk users could take this lesson: look to yourself first, before complaining and criticizing others.
Act like an adult basically.
Edit: Maybe someone will get this for you for X-mas:
 *for, not four* The rest of that imge is pure gold, but there is no reason why someone would even write 'four' when 'for is proper foniks |
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One of my four S4's LCD screen is blank. It will not boot up. The LCD lights up but just stays blank. Can someone help?
Yes I can tell you exactly what the problem is. If you have rebooted a couple times and the screen is blank that means the SD card has moved a little inside the S4 and the firmware is not being read and booting up the machine.. You need to remove the 6 screws on top of the case, pull off the cover straight up, look inside and find the SD card, push it in and it will then pop out, then reinsert. The S4 will work then. I had to do this on 2 out of 4 today. That did the trick, Sir... THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! Added two new S3's and four new S4's to my little farm. Went up from 9.2 TH/s to 18 TH/s. So, I've almost doubled. I will delete the pic in a few hours. Please don't mind the mess with the wiring. They are about to be moved to a new closet I'm building. looks fantastic! How is the noise of the S4 compared to the S3? I know its obviously louder, but is it just more fans = more noise, or do the fans spin faster = higher pitch? I can stack shelves of S3 units without any concern over noise, but a single loud unit like the SP10 (WHIIIIIIINE) or any rockminer gear (VVVVVVRRRRRRRRRRR) sticks out like a sore thumb. S2 was totally reasonable |
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stuff
How does it compare to the UK National Lottery odds? Category Prizes Chances Prize (Aprox)
Jackpot 1 1 in 13,983,816 £3-5,000,000
5+bonus 6 1 in 2,330,636 £50,000
5-match 252 1 in 55,491.33 £1,500
4-match 13,545 1 in 1,032.40 £100
3-match 246,820 1 in 56.66 £25
The odds for the Dice are claimed to be 150/300,000,000, which isn't too far off, so let's run with that, and simplify it to there being a 1:2,000,000 chance that you would solve a block and get BTC25, currently worth about BTC25 * £240/ BTC = £6,000 . Rather unlikely, and you're out the £108. Just on the face of it, 1:56.66 / 1:2,000,000 ~= 35,300 times a better deal to play the lotto to win something. On the other hand, that something is much greater for the Bitcoin lottery, and factoring that into the odds by plugging one into the other (£6,000 / £25 = 240), multiplying with the odds (1:2,000,000 * 240 = 1:8,3333), and then dividing (1:56.66 / 1:8,333), you'd find that playing the lotto is 'only' 147 times a better deal than playing the Bitcoin lottery with a Dice to win something. But that's messing with numbers that shouldn't be messed with as it's not a direct comparison. Let's instead compare that to the closest equivalent for the lotto - getting a 5-match four times (for prize money of £6,000); Winning it once: 1:55,491.33 Winning it four times: 1:221,965.32 1:221,965.32 / 1:2,000,000 ~= 9 times better to play the lotto if the goal is to win £6,000. honestly - calling solo bitcoin mining a 'lottery' is a bit silly. If you actually wanted to win, you would solo mine with the larger, more cost-effective hardware. You can have 11x the hashrate for about 7x the cost if you buy an SP20. the solo-mining lottery is really a way to sell overpriced, underpowered hardware to those who dont know better, or want a small collectible piece. -granted, if its your first time mining bitcoin, its probably a decent device for that. cheap and power efficient. however, any new miner who goes solo will surely be dissapointed greatly 6 months later when they have nothing, and realise they should have been on a pool from the start so that they would have at least made a fraction of a bitcoin, maybe enough to pay for the electricity used in that time period (probably $60-80 worth) |
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