If the new router doesn't work... you may also need to try and find the same firmware version that the other guy is using - if it is older...
 (as a last ditch effort to try and get the new router to work)

Another idea would be to try and get the proxy system connected to the switch (if it isn't already)... it sounds like the proxy is currently connected to the router, which means the blades have to go through the router to communicate to the proxy, then the proxy comes back through the router and out to the pool... might be a simpler setup if the proxy is connect to the switch, and the blades communicate through the switch to the proxy system... and ultimately out through the router when communicating to the pool.

I am starting to stretch for ideas now, so I am going to wait until Nave replies to go any further... before my head explodes    


EDIT:  and, of course you reply now... good luck with the new router, hopefully the easy solution!

I don't believe this will work, because the issue doesn't seem to have much to do with the connectivity between the blades and the proxy...  (because the traffic still has to pass through the verizon router to get to the internet, and I feel like the router is causing the issue)... although the laptop idea may be something to try... because that forces the traffic through the wifi which may have different results, might be the same issue though... it would be worth a try if you have a laptop or a wifi card you could put onto the proxy system.

But, this did give me another idea if the new router doesn't work... which would be to try and segment the wifi/wired traffic and basically create 2 different vlans on the router. This *may* force the router to handle the traffic differently and may circumvent the problem... but setting up vlans on a verizon router can prove challenging... and involves breaking the bridged connections that Verizon routers create, creating the vlans and assigning them to specific ethernet ports. I have done it before... it's just not pretty, especially if you ever have to reset that verizon router (which verizon support loves doing in the event of any issue)... here is a basic guide I found for doing it: http://blog.jeffreyberg.net/?p=56

But you need to be prepared to handle any troubleshooting once you start this process, as you may drop off the internet while doing it.

This has already been recommended... and this has already been tried. In the OP he said he already tried a different router and it didn't work. I had suggested to get the 'exact' model of the other user who had the same issue, then disable the wifi on the verizon router... he ordered the router and it should arrive today. (hopefully it works and this thread can be done with and we can all focus on bigger and better things  )

Not sure some of the recent posts have been reading the entire thread  

EDIT: ( at least, I hope this is the case... )

Interesting... yes, I do see multiple on the left, each one with a different amount of BTC (when viewing in 'advanced' mode)... I may have to wait until I get home, so I can actually see the multiple addresses I have on my client. I assume I should be able to match up one of these addresses with an address I see on my bitcoin client/wallet?

Thanks for the help

I may have done this as well... can someone explain to me how to get the sending address, or point me to a thread?? 
I am looking at the blockchain.info on my TX, but see plenty of addresses, and none saying 'sending address'... I just used an address I knew I could sign with.

Looks somewhat legitimate... although it would be best for local pickup! (says Newark, CA)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190844255633

Indeed... definitely a rack-mounted shelf with the avalon and a sonicwall sitting ontop of eachother... maybe he should have spaced them out a bit?   

It is not really called 'wireless qos' on that page, but is under a link called 'WMM Settings' at the bottom... the link is also in the screenshot I posted, its just a text link at the bottom of the page... the verizon interface is definitely a little convoluted!  Might just be something that is available on my verizon router but worth checking again if you were looking for a 'wireless qos section'  

Hopefully the other router will be the quickest solution at this point!  

EDIT:  The model router I am looking at is a MI424WR-GEN2   (which has the WMM settings link)

I believe you are reading it correctly, I actually sent a PM earlier after my post to re-clarify this, because I am pretty sure I  misinterpreted the initial setup.    The previous post still makes sense to me with a few word changes... and a strikethrough on the frequency comment, because I am not really sure this would be as much of an issue if the blades are wired to the switch (and are 100ft from the router)...



Understanding the setup now, I'd focus on the settings/config of the router... you've probably tried all of this, but changing the security type (switching to legacy mode, compatibility mode), disabling wep/wpa security entirely, disabling the Wireless QOS settings, etc... it sounds like you went through most of the wireless settings already. Can you provide the model # of the router that the other guy used?  there may be an obvious feature of that router that might shed some more light.

if disabling the wifi somehow gets the connection to work, IP connectivity shouldn't have anything to do with it and it shouldn't have anything to do with DNS/IPs/Gateways/port forwarding/etc... and the fact that some of the hashrate gets registered using ethernet, it means the ip connectivity exists enough to transmit information to the pool, which means the ports/gateways/etc all should be fine. Unless I am not understanding the steps you took to troubleshoot this... I would assume its about the wifi either interfering with the frequency that the chips or some other part of the machine runs at... or that there are so many wireless devices that the CTS setting is required to avoid collisions, but I honestly have never seen this setting do much in other networks... could work for you though!  

If it is a verizon router, you should have access to the cts setting (or you should, I know I see it on mine...) after going to 'wireless settings' at the top, go to 'advanced security settings' on the left, and then at the bottom click 'other advanced wireless options'

This gets you access to the transmit power/cts setting/etc... but its possible you have an older firmware or an older UI on your router... teamviewer might be best to troubleshoot this. (in which case, try updating the firmware under the 'advanced' menu)

Although, again, I would think getting the same exact model router as the other guy would fix the situation (if the issues are identical)
 

EDIT:  There is also a 'Wireless QOS' area that you could mess with as well... not sure if you modified the main QOS settings, or the wireless QOS settings, but on my verizon router they are separate.    (*The Wireless QOS settings are off of the same page with the CTS setting - at the bottom under the "WMM settings" link)

EDIT #2: (now that I have access to my verizon router - screenshot http://postimg.org/image/mjo7ac291/)

EDIT #3: modified due to my misunderstanding of the initial setup 

See what fictional books do to people's minds...
I want to hear YOUR words. 

Unlikely scenarios seem to be happening more and more these days.

And, rather than do a 3rd edit on my post above -

To troubleshoot, I would look at the 'system monitor' in the UI... and look at your network statistics for your device(s)... see if there are any errors or dropped packets:

should look something like this: (random image I found)
http://blog.jeffreyberg.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/1_SystemWideMonitoring_Pre-e1323895181186.png

EDIT:  I can also use teamviewer to troubleshoot, if nothing above works.

Have you tried lowering the transmit power on the wireless options?... should be under the advanced wireless options section of that verizon UI...

EDIT:  Do you have the model of the router that the other guy used for his Avalon issues?... might be worth just running out and trying to get that specific model router, disabling the wifi on your verizon router, and using the other router solely for wireless access.

EDIT #2:  I would also attempt to turn off the CTS protection under the advanced wireless options (if it is turned on)... and if it is already turned off, try turning it on. This may be an issue if you have a lot of wifi devices connected, but I would try it anyway.

A teaser post??... whats the big news?? 

Part 3/3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPVttJZfKWk

At least their honest about the 'plug and play' capabilities... and the easy install software disc that always came with those modems  

I'd be interested in 3 of the K16 boards... and possibly some of the K1s  ( depending on how many chips get damaged  )