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Author Topic: Placing machines outside on cold winter? -20  (Read 16385 times)
Betwrong
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October 07, 2015, 02:07:01 PM
 #61



On the night a bit of the "homeMAde" cable is still warm, the other day when 4x pcie were passing trough 1x copper wire , it got RED HOT, and started to burn stuff and melting plastic haha, no dmg too done i got it in time Smiley.


Man, please stop using those "homemade" cables! This is not a joke. That's good that you got there in time before fire started, but don't you think that was a sign for you to stop using those cables.

You better pay some cash for the good cables then take such risks. I'm not alone here who is telling this to you so you are warned.

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Sweminer777
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October 09, 2015, 12:05:32 PM
 #62



On the night a bit of the "homeMAde" cable is still warm, the other day when 4x pcie were passing trough 1x copper wire , it got RED HOT, and started to burn stuff and melting plastic haha, no dmg too done i got it in time Smiley.


Man, please stop using those "homemade" cables! This is not a joke. That's good that you got there in time before fire started, but don't you think that was a sign for you to stop using those cables.

You better pay some cash for the good cables then take such risks. I'm not alone here who is telling this to you so you are warned.

Hey, it is okey now whit cables.

I had made some miss wiring, was passing 300a trough 1 cabler for 2x pcie. i have 4 rails and was using 3.

Now each connection got 1x rail and cables are actually not hot anymore and passing 150a by each cable.

The cable is HOME wiring , fat Copper Wires so was kinda dissapointed when this happened.'

Now it's working fine i will upload pics of the sp20.



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bitbabba
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October 09, 2015, 03:21:03 PM
 #63

It will be dangerous for the equipment. I strongly recommend not to do so.

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October 10, 2015, 06:09:35 AM
 #64



On the night a bit of the "homeMAde" cable is still warm, the other day when 4x pcie were passing trough 1x copper wire , it got RED HOT, and started to burn stuff and melting plastic haha, no dmg too done i got it in time Smiley.


Man, please stop using those "homemade" cables! This is not a joke. That's good that you got there in time before fire started, but don't you think that was a sign for you to stop using those cables.

You better pay some cash for the good cables then take such risks. I'm not alone here who is telling this to you so you are warned.

Hey, it is okey now whit cables.

I had made some miss wiring, was passing 300a trough 1 cabler for 2x pcie. i have 4 rails and was using 3.

Now each connection got 1x rail and cables are actually not hot anymore and passing 150a by each cable.

The cable is HOME wiring , fat Copper Wires so was kinda dissapointed when this happened.'

Now it's working fine i will upload pics of the sp20.




Please do upload those pictures once you get a chance.  I have been very curious what it looks like after you described cables.

If you have a chance please take picture of wiring to it.
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October 11, 2015, 12:54:24 PM
 #65

sp20 wich is outside.



http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ

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Betwrong
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October 11, 2015, 02:12:17 PM
 #66

sp20 wich is outside.



http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ

Thanks for posting the pics! Now I can see the cables you were talking about. Man, they look horrible, but since you said  everything's normal now maybe that's ok, idk.

So apart from the cables everything's fine? I'm glad if it is so. Good luck on mining!

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October 11, 2015, 04:58:33 PM
 #67

sp20 wich is outside.



http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ

You aren't running it with damaged cables are you?

Transaction fees go to the pools and the pools decide to pay them to the miners. Anything else, including off-chain solutions are stealing and not the way Bitcoin was intended to function.
Make the block size set by the pool. Pool = miners and they get the choice.
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October 11, 2015, 05:16:17 PM
 #68

sp20 wich is outside.



http://imgur.com/a/jHCcZ

You aren't running it with damaged cables are you?

It appears anwser is yes on mutiple... with electrical tape.   I wondered what wiring was like dang..... OP you really need to think about shutting down rig.

It just is scary on the wiring.  That is a fire hazard.
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October 12, 2015, 10:51:53 AM
 #69

I am running it whit those cables.

they are about 2.5mm thick.

I know they look ugly but it is working fine , i have been checking them alot, they are not heating up anymore like before.


Machine has been working fine, it works fine at Low FAN speeds 10-20 is good else it drops alot in ghz if i cool it down to much so might be some signs that it's not convenient to even run at lower temps?.


Ambien temps are 12c and 39c backplate.
Asics are running between 70~c and 90~c

Quote
[H:HW:1592Gh (500),DC-W:865,L:0,A:8,MMtmp:0 TMP:(22/22)=>=>=>(39/39 , 41/41)]
Pushed 10 jobs , in HW queue 4 jobs (sw:2, hw:2)!
min:32 wins:51939[this/last min:24/38] bist-fail:105, hw-err:0
leading-zeroes:41 idle promils[s/m]:0/0, rate:1328gh/s asic-count:10056 (wins:11+13)
wall watts:1171
Fan:27, conseq:200
AC2DC BAD: 0 0
R/NR: 75326/0
RTF asics: 0
FET: 0:9 1:9



The S5.s wich are inside are running at 1250~ up to 1.3 clocked at 391, whit open windows to let the room cooldown they bump up som ghz.

Migh consider to just run the s5.s outside, will put them outside maybe in the week to see how they perfom.


The s5 are pulling 1.2kw clocked together they do 2.5ghz~.





On the night i am doing 4.2thz~.

At morning i am going from 3900 to 4100, i guess the temps might play some roll, need to do some more research.

The sun still heats alot .

The air Is really cold and getting colder.




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Borisz
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October 17, 2015, 01:00:14 PM
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Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well  Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.
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October 17, 2015, 04:50:27 PM
 #71

Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well  Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Cables are not that expensive they really need replaced with proper cables.  It appears like it burnt  through coating on parts and is covered with electrical tape.  Just almost asking for electrical fire with that.

You will think us one day if you spend the money to get new wires.
Betwrong
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October 18, 2015, 10:03:43 AM
 #72

Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well  Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Cables are not that expensive they really need replaced with proper cables.  It appears like it burnt  through coating on parts and is covered with electrical tape.  Just almost asking for electrical fire with that.

You will think us one day if you spend the money to get new wires.

Yes, I agree. Even if they are working ok now as OP says it's still better replace them because electrical tape is not a good coating for cables.

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October 18, 2015, 04:49:29 PM
 #73

Nice experiment man! Don't forget to write down the results you get for yourself and for public knowledge as well  Wink

Specifications usually mention 0 deg C as a minimum, because equipment is not tested below that, but this doesn't mean it won't work. Maybe you can even give feedback to the manufacturer saying that you tested it for X time and worked / did not work.

As for your cables, others said as well, look into them. Burned cables are no good. Also, 4A/mm2 can be taken as the rough measure on how much current you can push through a copper cable. Don't go above it when operating continuously.

Cables are not that expensive they really need replaced with proper cables.  It appears like it burnt  through coating on parts and is covered with electrical tape.  Just almost asking for electrical fire with that.

You will think us one day if you spend the money to get new wires.

Yes, I agree. Even if they are working ok now as OP says it's still better replace them because electrical tape is not a good coating for cables.

It honestly hurts me to read threads like this.  Those wires are not safe.  Add some cold weather and some snow/other water source.  Combined with exposed wire... it's asking for trouble.

I can understand trying to stay low cost but really change out the wires.   After you burn them out electrical tape is not a fix.
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October 19, 2015, 06:23:29 AM
 #74

if you make your own cable, like combine two with solderingiron, is electrical tape enough?
when no shrinking tube available?
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October 19, 2015, 06:49:18 AM
 #75

if you make your own cable, like combine two with solderingiron, is electrical tape enough?
when no shrinking tube available?

I'm guessing you could wrap it enough times.  But sounds like a horrible idea.   Don't make a cable with electrical tape.

Shrinking tube would be so much nicer. (I'm assuming you mean entire cord not just a tiny spot)
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October 19, 2015, 06:58:24 AM
 #76

if you make your own cable, like combine two with solderingiron, is electrical tape enough?
when no shrinking tube available?

I'm guessing you could wrap it enough times.  But sounds like a horrible idea.   Don't make a cable with electrical tape.

Shrinking tube would be so much nicer. (I'm assuming you mean entire cord not just a tiny spot)

like this:



If you say bad idea, i will get more shrinking tube, this wil also be in the outside. In the cabitnet of radiators.
see:

I don't know if it will be a real project.
just some idea popped in to my mind seeing an unused c1 in the bathroom.
I am looking for some experts opinion on it if it will be doable.
Also just finiched my sick radiator cabitnet.





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October 19, 2015, 09:06:26 PM
 #77

If it's for fans there is no problem whit that electrical tape.





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October 20, 2015, 01:20:34 AM
 #78

If it's for fans there is no problem whit that electrical tape.


This should be true as it should not have a lot of electricity going through molex to fan.  You can buy a professional one cheap though:

One amazon 9 bucks from one molex to 6 fans: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007S3T4O0?keywords=molex%20to%20fan&qid=1445303953&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

I used two of these with C1's at a point they are as solid as it gets and works good.
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October 20, 2015, 08:58:23 PM
 #79

oh yeah,

pro build is always better .


Well.

Ive had my sp20 and s5s outside, and let me say that they underperform at cold temps.

So skip putting them outside, will just warm the house for winter .

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October 21, 2015, 09:22:40 AM
 #80

house only 60m2,
to hot Grin for 5KW
possebly 10KW in future Wink
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