ANTMINER S5: 1155GH(+OverClock Potential), In Stock $0.319/GH & 0.51W/GH

[Subw]

PS. Where did you see that quotation?

email

[soy]

What's the minimum per fan CFM on a 2x fan setup?

I'm able to run at a frequency of 250M hashing almost 800GH/s with two old PSU fans. These fans can't be more than 20 CFM each. This thing seems stable just below 50 deg.

If you want to run it at default freq (350) you need minimum 200 cfm in my opinion.
Something like 2 120 cfm fan using a push pull setup should work.

Be sure to be below 60 on each blade.

Just took a ruler to an Arctic Freezer i30 and the fan screw spacing looks good.  I have two sitting here.  I'll be moving one to my S5 unless someone can tell me why it would be a mistake.

I see a few pages back someone suggested an Arctic Cooler fan but someone said it doesn't move enough air.  So, putting a lower CFM fan as pull would degrade over no pull fan at all?

[pekatete]

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Should not be that hard to fabricate on your own .... just need to find out what thickness of the copper slab to get, slice some slots / channels in it and then split a few copper tubes to for the fins that are slid into the slots. All you are left to do is drilling tapped holes for attaching the PCB. I wonder how cost efficient it would be though for just a handful of units ..... ?

Doesn't sound that easy to me. Unless you have a machine shop and all the tools necessary as well as the skills to do properly.

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

[dkaufman]

Came today 2 S5. Version 1.91 and 1.7. In version 1.7 does not work one of the blades

http://joxi.ru/v297DonsXyg7rG

Mine looks like that too -- it was working for a day or two.  It was too loud in my office for me to even speak on the phone, so last night I removed the pull-fan fro one of my S3's and replaced the S5's push fan with it -- had to splice to extend the wires because they didn't reach.

Now it is nice & quiet, and still running at acceptable temps < 65

BUT chain #2 is dead -- all dashes :-(

How do I go about troubleshooting?  I reseated all of the power connectors (twice), and the two grey data connectors on top.  But I'm not sure what to try next.  My warranty is clearly null and void :-)

thanks,

-dave

[vegasguy]

Anyone handy with fixing these. I just listed my 2Ths S4 on ebay starting at $49 (no reserve). Does need some sort of repair.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bitmain-Antminer-S4-BATCH-2-Bitcoin-Miner-2Th-s-SHA256-Mining-AS-IS-Power-on-/281651706290?

Vegas

[dmwardjr]

Guys, please stop this off-top.

Moreover, it's a bit stupid kind of jokes.

p.s. I am not Putin's fan at all, but...

I apologize, Rabinovitch.  No pun intended.  It was just a thought.  I suppose I should have kept my thoughts to myself.  Not saying you like Putin at all.  Whether you do or not is none of mine or anyone else's business.

Happy mining...

David

[opentoe]

Came today 2 S5. Version 1.91 and 1.7. In version 1.7 does not work one of the blades

http://joxi.ru/v297DonsXyg7rG

Mine looks like that too -- it was working for a day or two.  It was too loud in my office for me to even speak on the phone, so last night I removed the pull-fan fro one of my S3's and replaced the S5's push fan with it -- had to splice to extend the wires because they didn't reach.

Now it is nice & quiet, and still running at acceptable temps < 65

BUT chain #2 is dead -- all dashes :-(

How do I go about troubleshooting?  I reseated all of the power connectors (twice), and the two grey data connectors on top.  But I'm not sure what to try next.  My warranty is clearly null and void :-)

thanks,

-dave

I had some zeros drop off my chain and was only hashing at 450 or something similar. I unplugged the miner. Removed the two black sides, visually checked everything over and slightly tightened the screws with the springs. I found a few really lose. I don't know the torque setting to use, but I was very careful and used a little drive where I couldn't over tighten at all. Some times just doing things like that to these miners make them work when powered up again and it did. Got all my zeros back and hashing power. I also re-seating the ribbon connections. I have no idea why that would "fix" anything, but if it works, don't knock it.

[coinits]

Anyone handy with fixing these. I just listed my 2Ths S4 on ebay starting at $49 (no reserve). Does need some sort of repair.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bitmain-Antminer-S4-BATCH-2-Bitcoin-Miner-2Th-s-SHA256-Mining-AS-IS-Power-on-/281651706290?

Vegas

Please ship to Canada. I will bid on it if you will. If I win, I will pay the shipping via UPS and be responsible for duties and taxes on my end upon receipt. My eBay Account is 100% and older than dirt. Same as my PayPal. They are both probably older than some of the people posting on here

[zaugger]

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Should not be that hard to fabricate on your own .... just need to find out what thickness of the copper slab to get, slice some slots / channels in it and then split a few copper tubes to for the fins that are slid into the slots. All you are left to do is drilling tapped holes for attaching the PCB. I wonder how cost efficient it would be though for just a handful of units ..... ?

Doesn't sound that easy to me. Unless you have a machine shop and all the tools necessary as well as the skills to do properly.

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

My good friend owns a machine shop,  he has a few bridgeports and 5-axis Mazak cnc's.  soooo thats a start,  ill buy an s3 and pull the heatsink off of it, see what they can come up with.

[aarons6]

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Should not be that hard to fabricate on your own .... just need to find out what thickness of the copper slab to get, slice some slots / channels in it and then split a few copper tubes to for the fins that are slid into the slots. All you are left to do is drilling tapped holes for attaching the PCB. I wonder how cost efficient it would be though for just a handful of units ..... ?

Doesn't sound that easy to me. Unless you have a machine shop and all the tools necessary as well as the skills to do properly.

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

My good friend owns a machine shop,  he has a few bridgeports and 5-axis Mazak cnc's.  soooo thats a start,  ill buy an s3 and pull the heatsink off of it, see what they can come up with.

i wouldnt spend alot of money on it. the s3s are getting to the end of life, unless someone finds a way to undervolt them.

[soy]

What's the minimum per fan CFM on a 2x fan setup?

I'm able to run at a frequency of 250M hashing almost 800GH/s with two old PSU fans. These fans can't be more than 20 CFM each. This thing seems stable just below 50 deg.

If you want to run it at default freq (350) you need minimum 200 cfm in my opinion.
Something like 2 120 cfm fan using a push pull setup should work.

Be sure to be below 60 on each blade.

Just took a ruler to an Arctic Freezer i30 and the fan screw spacing looks good.  I have two sitting here.  I'll be moving one to my S5 unless someone can tell me why it would be a mistake.

I see a few pages back someone suggested an Arctic Cooler fan but someone said it doesn't move enough air.  So, putting a lower CFM fan as pull would degrade over no pull fan at all?

Well, I see what I have to do.  After I characterize my S3+'s, I'll characterize my S5 stock.  I'll have determined my watt fraction per gigahash.  I'll add the pull fan.  I'll let it stabilize then characterize it again.  The fan wattage will have been added.  If the increased air flow has reduced errors and their associated energy cost sufficiently to decrease the watt fraction per gigahash then it's good.  Of course this will have to be done on two days at the same time of day so the temps are the same.

[dogie]

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Should not be that hard to fabricate on your own .... just need to find out what thickness of the copper slab to get, slice some slots / channels in it and then split a few copper tubes to for the fins that are slid into the slots. All you are left to do is drilling tapped holes for attaching the PCB. I wonder how cost efficient it would be though for just a handful of units ..... ?

Doesn't sound that easy to me. Unless you have a machine shop and all the tools necessary as well as the skills to do properly.

Heatpipes aren't something you can do yourself easily, they're not very use friendly to craft. Generally though, there wouldn't be much point making extreme stock heatsinks which add $40 and 400g of weight to everyone elses shipments when their additional capacity is going to be used by very few.

[pekatete]

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Should not be that hard to fabricate on your own .... just need to find out what thickness of the copper slab to get, slice some slots / channels in it and then split a few copper tubes to for the fins that are slid into the slots. All you are left to do is drilling tapped holes for attaching the PCB. I wonder how cost efficient it would be though for just a handful of units ..... ?

Doesn't sound that easy to me. Unless you have a machine shop and all the tools necessary as well as the skills to do properly.

Heatpipes aren't something you can do yourself easily, they're not very use friendly to craft. Generally though, there wouldn't be much point making extreme stock heatsinks which add $40 and 400g of weight to everyone elses shipments when their additional capacity is going to be used by very few.

You've raised your ugly head again .....
If you find dealing with heatpipes difficult, leave it to those who don't (both in practice and comments). No one asked you to add these to your homebrews, and unlike you, most people are not penny-pinching skinflints ....

[dkaufman]

Mine looks like that too -- it was working for a day or two.  It was too loud in my office for me to even speak on the phone, so last night I removed the pull-fan fro one of my S3's and replaced the S5's push fan with it -- had to splice to extend the wires because they didn't reach.

Now it is nice & quiet, and still running at acceptable temps < 65

BUT chain #2 is dead -- all dashes :-(

How do I go about troubleshooting?  I reseated all of the power connectors (twice), and the two grey data connectors on top.  But I'm not sure what to try next.  My warranty is clearly null and void :-)

thanks,

-dave

Were there dashes before you changed the fan?  If not, then you can try power cycling the PS (off for thirty seconds or so) and if still a problem, lower the clock!

No dashes before -- all o's on both blades.  And it was hashing fine out of the box at stock freq for a few hours, then I cranked it up to 400 and it was doing about 1.3 TH nicely.  But so frickin loud.  That's when I decided not to leave well enough alone, and to replace the fan with an S3 push. 

Today its hashing on the one blade at 350 freq again.  And I can see the S3 fan is not going to be enough.  Its barely keeping the one blade at stock clock under 60 degrees...

I did reseat all the power and data cables I can see and reach from the top.  I guess a full tear-down is in order.  What was the good thermal paste again?

-dave

[thedreamer]

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

  Having worked at my family's machine shop, programming CNC mills/lathes and Wire EDM's for a few years, if you can do what you're saying with a dremel and have it actually work, I'm sure we ALL would love to see that. 

On another note, to do it properly, it is not financially feasible for a few extra GH/s, considering the time and costs involved.

That's like saying you want to add 15HP to your toyota corolla by spending 30-50% of the value of the car itself and only gaining about 4HP at the end.. 

[thedreamer]

No dashes before -- all o's on both blades.  And it was hashing fine out of the box at stock freq for a few hours, then I cranked it up to 400 and it was doing about 1.3 TH nicely.  But so frickin loud.  That's when I decided not to leave well enough alone, and to replace the fan with an S3 push. 

Today its hashing on the one blade at 350 freq again.  And I can see the S3 fan is not going to be enough.  Its barely keeping the one blade at stock clock under 60 degrees...

I did reseat all the power and data cables I can see and reach from the top.  I guess a full tear-down is in order.  What was the good thermal paste again?

-dave

Did you only use one fan off the S3? I don't think that is near enough for the heat. You'd need both push and pulls form the S3.

I tried adding just a 104CFM fan to the back of the S5 tonight and use with the stock fan to see if it makes any difference tomorrow after I get a chance to put it in my rig.

Should reduce temps enough to warrant a fan speed reduction. We'll see.

The fan speeds of the S5 and it's extreme heat generation IMO is a downer on this. My SP20's create less heat at much quieter fan speeds. I was hoping to rock a few dozen S5's but I might have to just buy more SP20's unless I find a decent way to quiet them at least to SP20' levels.. 
(I run my rigs in one of my garages under the house. Can't hear it inside, but it's quite loud and toasty in the garage.)
**Love a heated garage that kind of pays for itself** 

[dogie]

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

  Having worked at my family's machine shop, programming CNC mills/lathes and Wire EDM's for a few years, if you can do what you're saying with a dremel and have it actually work, I'm sure we ALL would love to see that. 

On another note, to do it properly, it is not financially feasible for a few extra GH/s, considering the time and costs involved.

That's like saying you want to add 15HP to your toyota corolla by spending 30-50% of the value of the car itself and only gaining about 4HP at the end.. 

Indeed. Pekatete is clearly so much better than us that I'd love for him to teach us how to manufacture high grade heatpipes from scratch. Because its easy, you know.

[cathoderay]

Indeed. Pekatete is clearly so much better than us that I'd love for him to teach us how to manufacture high grade heatpipes from scratch. Because its easy, you know.

Still insulting Bitmain customers on Bitmain threads I see poop-dawg?

Do Bitmain a favour & stick to your own biased BS threads - you've damaged their reputation enough already 

[TrevorS]

Three Silverstone FHP141 fans arrived Thursday and I took before and after temp and fan readings.  The temp reduction I'm seeing on three S5 (w/ S3 push fans) is only on the order of 1C at 312.5MHz, but may be more noticeable at 350.  Will look at that more when the next batch of three fans arrive.  Between 312.5 and 350MHz, both fans appear to pick up roughly 120rpm, approximate norm being 3240/1560 -- current 350MHz temps being 56/54 and 54/53, aprox ambient measuring 72F(22.2C) a couple feet from the miner intakes.

My max temp reduction results from running the same fan (S3) for both push and pull, but that hugely increases the noise. S3 push only gives just the sound of blowing air, adding the FHP141 reduces the air noise, but adds a distinct hum.  I got the following stable results @312.5MHz (one individual S5):

Code:

test case      temp   fan
S3 push only  58/52  3240
plus FHP141   57/55  3240/1680
S3 push/pull  54/53  3000/2880

Subjectively, the quietest case is the S3/FHP141 combo, the by far loudest is the S3/S3 combo, though the stock S5 is easily louder yet.  I'd say the S3 push only works pretty well (depending on clock and ambient temp) and the FHP141 may be worth trying, but there is some hum.

PS -- Appears the Silverstone FHP141 is indeed a PWM fan, wasn't at all clear to me from the manufacturer's description.

Well, it was fun to have the two S5 running @ 350MHz off the EVGA 1300, but some hours later the breaker threw up its hands.  So, I guess 325MHz is as far as I can safely go.

By the way, if you're going to fool with alternative fans, make sure you drop the clock well under 350MHz before making any changes, otherwise, you're courting disaster.  Only start increasing the clock again (incrementally) after determining your new fan setup is actually accomplishing what's needed.

[Darthswan]

Three Silverstone FHP141 fans arrived Thursday and I took before and after temp and fan readings.  The temp reduction I'm seeing on three S5 (w/ S3 push fans) is only on the order of 1C at 312.5MHz, but may be more noticeable at 350.  Will look at that more when the next batch of three fans arrive.  Between 312.5 and 350MHz, both fans appear to pick up roughly 120rpm, approximate norm being 3240/1560 -- current 350MHz temps being 56/54 and 54/53, aprox ambient measuring 72F(22.2C) a couple feet from the miner intakes.

My max temp reduction results from running the same fan (S3) for both push and pull, but that hugely increases the noise. S3 push only gives just the sound of blowing air, adding the FHP141 reduces the air noise, but adds a distinct hum.  I got the following stable results @312.5MHz (one individual S5):

Code:

test case      temp   fan
S3 push only  58/52  3240
plus FHP141   57/55  3240/1680
S3 push/pull  54/53  3000/2880

Subjectively, the quietest case is the S3/FHP141 combo, the by far loudest is the S3/S3 combo, though the stock S5 is easily louder yet.  I'd say the S3 push only works pretty well (depending on clock and ambient temp) and the FHP141 may be worth trying, but there is some hum.

PS -- Appears the Silverstone FHP141 is indeed a PWM fan, wasn't at all clear to me from the manufacturer's description.

Well, it was fun to have the two S5 running @ 350MHz off the EVGA 1300, but some hours later the breaker threw up its hands.  So, I guess 325MHz is as far as I can safely go.

By the way, if you're going to fool with alternative fans, make sure you drop the clock well under 350MHz before making any changes, otherwise, you're courting disaster.  Only start increasing the clock again (incrementally) after determining your new fan setup is actually accomplishing what's needed.

Interesting.  My fan swap worked well at 350.  I have clocked it up to 362.5 running fine without any problems.  Waiting for my other Delta fan to come, so I can remove the stock as a pull fan.  The stock fan is a screamer.