ANTMINER S5: 1155GH(+OverClock Potential), In Stock $0.319/GH & 0.51W/GH

[dogie]

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

  Having worked at my family's machine shop, programming CNC mills/lathes and Wire EDM's for a few years, if you can do what you're saying with a dremel and have it actually work, I'm sure we ALL would love to see that. 

On another note, to do it properly, it is not financially feasible for a few extra GH/s, considering the time and costs involved.

That's like saying you want to add 15HP to your toyota corolla by spending 30-50% of the value of the car itself and only gaining about 4HP at the end.. 

Indeed. Pekatete is clearly so much better than us that I'd love for him to teach us how to manufacture high grade heatpipes from scratch. Because its easy, you know.

[cathoderay]

Indeed. Pekatete is clearly so much better than us that I'd love for him to teach us how to manufacture high grade heatpipes from scratch. Because its easy, you know.

Still insulting Bitmain customers on Bitmain threads I see poop-dawg?

Do Bitmain a favour & stick to your own biased BS threads - you've damaged their reputation enough already 

[TrevorS]

Three Silverstone FHP141 fans arrived Thursday and I took before and after temp and fan readings.  The temp reduction I'm seeing on three S5 (w/ S3 push fans) is only on the order of 1C at 312.5MHz, but may be more noticeable at 350.  Will look at that more when the next batch of three fans arrive.  Between 312.5 and 350MHz, both fans appear to pick up roughly 120rpm, approximate norm being 3240/1560 -- current 350MHz temps being 56/54 and 54/53, aprox ambient measuring 72F(22.2C) a couple feet from the miner intakes.

My max temp reduction results from running the same fan (S3) for both push and pull, but that hugely increases the noise. S3 push only gives just the sound of blowing air, adding the FHP141 reduces the air noise, but adds a distinct hum.  I got the following stable results @312.5MHz (one individual S5):

Code:

test case      temp   fan
S3 push only  58/52  3240
plus FHP141   57/55  3240/1680
S3 push/pull  54/53  3000/2880

Subjectively, the quietest case is the S3/FHP141 combo, the by far loudest is the S3/S3 combo, though the stock S5 is easily louder yet.  I'd say the S3 push only works pretty well (depending on clock and ambient temp) and the FHP141 may be worth trying, but there is some hum.

PS -- Appears the Silverstone FHP141 is indeed a PWM fan, wasn't at all clear to me from the manufacturer's description.

Well, it was fun to have the two S5 running @ 350MHz off the EVGA 1300, but some hours later the breaker threw up its hands.  So, I guess 325MHz is as far as I can safely go.

By the way, if you're going to fool with alternative fans, make sure you drop the clock well under 350MHz before making any changes, otherwise, you're courting disaster.  Only start increasing the clock again (incrementally) after determining your new fan setup is actually accomplishing what's needed.

[Darthswan]

Three Silverstone FHP141 fans arrived Thursday and I took before and after temp and fan readings.  The temp reduction I'm seeing on three S5 (w/ S3 push fans) is only on the order of 1C at 312.5MHz, but may be more noticeable at 350.  Will look at that more when the next batch of three fans arrive.  Between 312.5 and 350MHz, both fans appear to pick up roughly 120rpm, approximate norm being 3240/1560 -- current 350MHz temps being 56/54 and 54/53, aprox ambient measuring 72F(22.2C) a couple feet from the miner intakes.

My max temp reduction results from running the same fan (S3) for both push and pull, but that hugely increases the noise. S3 push only gives just the sound of blowing air, adding the FHP141 reduces the air noise, but adds a distinct hum.  I got the following stable results @312.5MHz (one individual S5):

Code:

test case      temp   fan
S3 push only  58/52  3240
plus FHP141   57/55  3240/1680
S3 push/pull  54/53  3000/2880

Subjectively, the quietest case is the S3/FHP141 combo, the by far loudest is the S3/S3 combo, though the stock S5 is easily louder yet.  I'd say the S3 push only works pretty well (depending on clock and ambient temp) and the FHP141 may be worth trying, but there is some hum.

PS -- Appears the Silverstone FHP141 is indeed a PWM fan, wasn't at all clear to me from the manufacturer's description.

Well, it was fun to have the two S5 running @ 350MHz off the EVGA 1300, but some hours later the breaker threw up its hands.  So, I guess 325MHz is as far as I can safely go.

By the way, if you're going to fool with alternative fans, make sure you drop the clock well under 350MHz before making any changes, otherwise, you're courting disaster.  Only start increasing the clock again (incrementally) after determining your new fan setup is actually accomplishing what's needed.

Interesting.  My fan swap worked well at 350.  I have clocked it up to 362.5 running fine without any problems.  Waiting for my other Delta fan to come, so I can remove the stock as a pull fan.  The stock fan is a screamer.

[pekatete]

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

  Having worked at my family's machine shop, programming CNC mills/lathes and Wire EDM's for a few years, if you can do what you're saying with a dremel and have it actually work, I'm sure we ALL would love to see that.  

Indeed. Pekatete is clearly so much better than us that I'd love for him to teach us how to manufacture high grade heatpipes from scratch. Because its easy, you know.

What on earth has it to do with you (dogie and bitchie) if it costs more or is hard to fabricate? This is a case of nit-picking gone mad. The initial post was somebody wondering whether a copper heatsink would work better, and I actually concur with them as copper is a better heat conductor than aluminium, but of course (EVERYBODY KNOWS THIS!) more expensive.

And for a person who claims to have worked in a family machine shop, apparently programming CNC mills and wire EDM's, this has to be a walk in the park! But hey, there have also been claims of people being millionaires at 13 and I would not be surprised if the two (pathological liars) are the same person.

[dogie]

Ofcourse, you need tools (that's a no-brainer) ... a dremel would be a good start .... but definitely not a task to be undertaken by feeble minded at DIY. But like I said, not that hard (does not mean it is easy!)

  Having worked at my family's machine shop, programming CNC mills/lathes and Wire EDM's for a few years, if you can do what you're saying with a dremel and have it actually work, I'm sure we ALL would love to see that. 

Indeed. Pekatete is clearly so much better than us that I'd love for him to teach us how to manufacture high grade heatpipes from scratch. Because its easy, you know.

What on earth has it to do with you (dogie and bitchie) if it costs more or is hard to fabricate? This is a case of nit-picking gone mad. The initial post was somebody wondering whether a copper heatsink would work better, and I actually concur with them as copper is a better heat conductor than aluminium, but of course (EVERYBODY KNOWS THIS!) more expensive.

And for a person who claims to have worked in a family machine shop, apparently programming CNC mills and wire EDM's, this has to be a walk in the park! But hey, there have also been claims of people being millionaires at 13 and I would not be surprised if the two (pathological liars) are the same person.

It 'has to do with me' when you attacked me for no reason. If you don't like what I'm posting, ignore me like I do to you.

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Should not be that hard to fabricate on your own .... just need to find out what thickness of the copper slab to get, slice some slots / channels in it and then split a few copper tubes to for the fins that are slid into the slots. All you are left to do is drilling tapped holes for attaching the PCB. I wonder how cost efficient it would be though for just a handful of units ..... ?

Doesn't sound that easy to me. Unless you have a machine shop and all the tools necessary as well as the skills to do properly.

Heatpipes aren't something you can do yourself easily, they're not very use friendly to craft. Generally though, there wouldn't be much point making extreme stock heatsinks which add $40 and 400g of weight to everyone elses shipments when their additional capacity is going to be used by very few.

You've raised your ugly head again .....
If you find dealing with heatpipes difficult, leave it to those who don't (both in practice and comments). No one asked you to add these to your homebrews, and unlike you, most people are not penny-pinching skinflints ....

[thedreamer]

And for a person who claims to have worked in a family machine shop, apparently programming CNC mills and wire EDM's, this has to be a walk in the park! But hey, there have also been claims of people being millionaires at 13 and I would not be surprised if the two (pathological liars) are the same person.

Seriously, that't the best you can come up with? What's next. Name calling? 

Just because it is a 'walk in the park' (Which IT IS NOT, but you'd know that, if you've EVER done anything in manufacturing) for me to go up to my family's machine shops, find a non utilized CNC mill or EDM, make/fab the right mount/block, find the right stock (material for you who don't know), setup the machinery, plan the program, enter the G-Code with conversions, test and fine tune. How many hours you THINK that takes and $$$ it costs to even prototype? Do you realize that prototyping is extremely expensive?

So if you can do this easily, I urge you to go, do it with your dremel and show it, or be quiet, move on and let people who actually know about the things we talk about / stick to valid and effective ways to improve a prouct. Obviously manufacturing is not your strong point.

[pekatete]

It 'has to do with me' when you attacked me for no reason. If you don't like what I'm posting, ignore me like I do to you.

And this is what you take to be an attack?

.... I wish a company made a copper option with heatpipes,  could make a huge difference for overclocking.

Heatpipes aren't something you can do yourself easily, they're not very use friendly to craft. Generally though, there wouldn't be much point making extreme stock heatsinks which add $40 and 400g of weight to everyone elses shipments when their additional capacity is going to be used by very few.

You've raised your ugly head again .....
If you find dealing with heatpipes difficult, leave it to those who don't (both in practice and comments). No one asked you to add these to your homebrews, and unlike you, most people are not penny-pinching skinflints ....

At least you do not distance yourself from bitchie .... you 2 are one and the same .... but like I said, if you find heatpipes difficult, leave it to those that don't. You do not have to throw in your 2 cents into any and everything all the time, mostly with your ignorance.

For starters, my suggestion was a self moded copper heatsink, and I speak WITH experience here as I have a few aluminium slab + copper fins heatsinks that I made myself. The fins were made from split copper tubes and attached to the aluminium using screws and heatpads. Whether it costs more or not, you have no way of telling and therefore are not in a position to add any value to the conversation, thus has nothing to do with you.

Millionaire at 13, went to MIT and left to work in family machine shop programming CNC's and wire EDM's bitchie dogie .....

[thedreamer]

At least you do not distance yourself from bitchie .... you 2 are one and the same .... but like I said, if you find heatpipes difficult, leave it to those that don't. You do not have to throw in your 2 cents into any and everything all the time, mostly with your ignorance.

For starters, my suggestion was a self moded copper heatsink, and I speak WITH experience here as I have a few aluminium slab + copper fins heatsinks that I made myself. The fins were made from split copper tubes and attached to the aluminium using screws and heatpads. Whether it costs more or not, you have no way of telling and therefore are not in a position to add any value to the conversation, thus has nothing to do with you.

Millionaire at 13, went to MIT and left to work in family machine shop programming CNC's and wire EDM's bitchie dogie .....

Ugh. Nevermind. Like talking to a stone wall. I'll be the mature one and move on. Is that OK with you?

[pekatete]

Ugh. Nevermind. Like talking to a stone wall. I'll be the mature one and move on. Is that OK with you?

Now that you realise your nonsensical comments to be that ... do as you wish. Just don't delude yourself that you know it all, if anything, bitchie dogie.
PS. That heatsink mod I described above was accomplished with no more than a power drill, snips and the trusty dremel that I used for tapping the holes ... so there you have it!

[duid88]

I want to buy s5 how the cost of shipping to Indonesia, I saw on the website was not found, please help
thank you

[scyth33]

just a quick question. is it safe to power the s5 with just 1 connector per blade?

[IYFTech]

just a quick question. is it safe to power the s5 with just 1 connector per blade?

Yeah, just make sure you use the ones nearest the ethernet port 

[thedreamer]

just a quick question. is it safe to power the s5 with just 1 connector per blade?

Yeah, just make sure you use the ones nearest the ethernet port 

So they are like the S3's? No need for all 4 connections unless you'll overclock? Didn't know that.

[IYFTech]

just a quick question. is it safe to power the s5 with just 1 connector per blade?

Yeah, just make sure you use the ones nearest the ethernet port  

So they are like the S3's? No need for all 4 connections unless you'll overclock? Didn't know that.

It's not recommended, but I run a couple like that without issues - never tried OCing them though, wouldn't risk it tbh  

Edit: Good quality gauge wires are essential though.

[Miasma]

Anyone know why S5s don't failover from WestHash.com when its profitability drops below the pw parameter

Code:

stratum.WestHash.com:3334#xnsub
worker address
p=0.0113

[Prelude]

Anyone know why S5s don't failover from WestHash.com when its profitability drops below the pw parameter

Code:

stratum.WestHash.com:3334#xnsub
worker address
p=0.0113

Badly designed firmware. S4s do the same.

[Miasma]

Anyone know why S5s don't failover from WestHash.com when its profitability drops below the pw parameter

Code:

stratum.WestHash.com:3334#xnsub
worker address
p=0.0113

Badly designed firmware. S4s do the same.

Thx, I was afraid of that. Guess they're too busy sweeping tombs to revise it 

Be nice if they'd add a power-time profile feature like the SP20s have to work with Time-Of-Use electric metering.

[pekatete]

Interesting. Batch Five is now sold out.

Nope, batch 5 is now / still available ...

[scyth33]

just a quick question. is it safe to power the s5 with just 1 connector per blade?

Yeah, just make sure you use the ones nearest the ethernet port  

So they are like the S3's? No need for all 4 connections unless you'll overclock? Didn't know that.

It's not recommended, but I run a couple like that without issues - never tried OCing them though, wouldn't risk it tbh  

Edit: Good quality gauge wires are essential though.

thanks! i assume they recommend connecting all 4 is to prevent the wires from getting too hot and the connectors on the blade are in parallel