ANTMINER S5: 1155GH(+OverClock Potential), In Stock $0.319/GH & 0.51W/GH

[toptek]

That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try  mybad .

Okay thank you very much for all the information. I'm still itching to try it with the heatsink on. So if you or anyone else has more information on this, for or against, i'm all ears.

I kind of feel like i don't want to spend money on getting more stuff than i already have on hand since i have no guarantee that this will allow the board to function. Hence, kind of wasted money.

In the other hand, if i remove the heatsink and bake the PCB. I can probably run it without thermal paste real quick to see if it works? And then if it work it would be worth buying all that thermal paste that i otherwise have no use for.

That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try  mybad .if one try doesn't work try again maybe i should have said and increases the time each time and keep a eye on it while it cooks .one try might not work but it's safe to plug into the controller and power after one try with no paste just feel board if it stats getting hot it worked i wouldn't wait for any lites to come on with no cooling unless you can time it right .

you can i guess look it up im being safe i read some place some had to and it worked to with heat sinks on .or ask i sidehack in a PM  i forgot hes good for that kind of advice , but he may tell you  don't can't say or give better advice .

[RichBC]

I would definitely do it with the heatsink off, just much less mass to heat so less time needed. Also I would turn the Controller Frequency right down to 100MHz will significantly reduce the current for the quick test without the heatsink.

Rich

[VirosaGITS]

That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try  mybad .

Okay thank you very much for all the information. I'm still itching to try it with the heatsink on. So if you or anyone else has more information on this, for or against, i'm all ears.

I kind of feel like i don't want to spend money on getting more stuff than i already have on hand since i have no guarantee that this will allow the board to function. Hence, kind of wasted money.

In the other hand, if i remove the heatsink and bake the PCB. I can probably run it without thermal paste real quick to see if it works? And then if it work it would be worth buying all that thermal paste that i otherwise have no use for.

That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try  mybad .if one try doesn't work try again maybe i should have said and increases the time each time and keep a eye on it while it cooks .one try might not work but it's safe to plug into the controller and power after one try with no paste just feel board if it stats getting hot it worked i wouldn't wait for any lites to come on with no cooling unless you can time it right .

you can i guess look it up im being safe i read some place some had to and it worked to with heat sinks on .

I didn't find anything. I did find a few mention of "I guess i'Ll try to reflow my pcb." relating to S3's and such, but not much else so i'm having problem comparing my plan with user experience here.

But beside the paste liquefying and leaking to the side of the heatsink, i don't really see any issue, since it already do fine when heated hot. The heatsink would be under the PCB, so nothing would leak unto the PCB.

Thinking like this is why i am keeping the option of keeping the heatsink on while doing the soldering reflow.

If i wait a bit maybe someone will post what they know.

I would definitely do it with the heatsink off, just much less mass to heat so less time needed. Also I would turn the Controller Frequency right down to 100MHz will significantly reduce the current for the quick test.

Rich

Thank you, i will keep that in mind, the spare s5 controller i have is set to 150mhz, it will be no problem to lower it further from there.

Now that you mention the mass thing, yeah maybe i should do it without. It will just be a pain to repaste, since i do not know how much paste i will need.

[toptek]

for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side   .


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00



I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink  with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU  .   .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it  seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.

[VirosaGITS]

for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side   .


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00



I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink  with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU  .   .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it  seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.

Hmm, AS5 was the best for a long time but for a while now, some thermal grease have even better thermal conductivity now. But regardless, i'm not sure i want to put conductive silver paste on there.

I already have some grease that would do the job regardless, i was just expecting to need to paste the whole board. If its just a drop on the chip, i might be able to do it with what i have!

Thanks

I will try all of this and report my results...

[notlist3d]

for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side   .


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00



I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink  with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU  .   .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it  seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.

Hmm, AS5 was the best for a long time but for a while now, some thermal grease have even better thermal conductivity now. But regardless, i'm not sure i want to put conductive silver paste on there.

I already have some grease that would do the job regardless, i was just expecting to need to paste the whole board. If its just a drop on the chip, i might be able to do it with what i have!

Thanks

I will try all of this and report my results...

Depending on what you need you also might take a look at here - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AVMRR0?keywords=thermal%20compound&qid=1444250716&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8

The nice thing about that one is if you do it and it does not work or seems like errors you can redo easily.  It just comes with a ton of paste.  I used it when my C1 needed re pasted I thought atleast.  I also got cleaner and purifier in case a mistake to clean it up nicely.

I was a little over prepared but if your like me and no local store sells this kinda stuff it's nice to have.

[toptek]

or i also use this


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPJQOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00



as long as your very care full putting it on A S5 it works great .  but that about any thing be care full with it all ) .



notlist3d ive used that to it seems to work about the same as any good paste .



or use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009B0K2I?keywords=heat%20sink%20pads&qid=1444251564&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2


heat sink pads ive been temped to try key word there is try but get the right ones like the tubes and the old gblack grindseeds use.

[VirosaGITS]

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

[notbatman]

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

That's an excessive amount of thermal paste, 'suppose to bush on a thin layer. Better than not enough though.

Wash all that crap off (PCBs are water proof. You can scrub and hose it off with soap and water. They use a dishwasher in the factory on completed boards ) and give us a good shot of the whole board. Maybe we can see the problem.

[Tupsu]

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

Did you get that miner  used ? Too many screws . Wrong black screws and self-drilled holes in blade.
You have been scammed by seller this miner.

[VirosaGITS]

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

Did you get that miner  used ? Too many screws . Wrong black screws and self-drilled holes in blade.
You have been scammed by seller this miner.

Yes. Yes. The holes don't look self drilled, they all have the factory groove in it. I didn't pay for this blade, i only paid for the rest of the miner, so i don't see how i have been scammed.

[Tupsu]

Yes. Yes. The holes don't look self drilled, they all have the factory groove in it. I didn't pay for this blade, i only paid for the rest of the miner, so i don't see how i have been scammed.

Always finds something new. For the first time I see double holes in the S5. But they are probably factory made.


If you got a free blade, then why try to fix it so primitive means such as an oven ?

[VirosaGITS]

Yes. Yes. The holes don't look self drilled, they all have the factory groove in it. I didn't pay for this blade, i only paid for the rest of the miner, so i don't see how i have been scammed.

Always finds something new. For the first time I see bouble holes in the S5. But they are probably factory made.


If you got a free blade, then why try to fix it so primitive means such as an oven ?

Do you have a less primitive mean to try to repair it than an oven? It was the only suggestion made to revive a board that i have no real use of unless it can work. If i can't revive i'll probably ship it to sidehack and thats that.

Doing this does not seem like it could damage the chips, so anything goes.

I'm very interested in any other suggestion pertaining to this.

[Tupsu]

Do you have a less primitive mean to try to repair it than an oven? It was the only suggestion made to revive a board that i have no real use of unless it can work. If i can't revive i'll probably ship it to sidehack and thats that.

Doing this does not seem like it could damage the chips, so anything goes.

I'm very interested in any other suggestion pertaining to this.

All the other options require expensive equipment and a lot of time.  My friend has equipment for repairing,
but he does not have time for this.

The question is why the previous owner  took it off for the first time?
Why does he use the wrong screws without springs ? With the greater pressure on the blade  and ships with wrong screws,  he got it to work or not?  Did he get the blade to work 100% ?

[VirosaGITS]

Do you have a less primitive mean to try to repair it than an oven? It was the only suggestion made to revive a board that i have no real use of unless it can work. If i can't revive i'll probably ship it to sidehack and thats that.

Doing this does not seem like it could damage the chips, so anything goes.

I'm very interested in any other suggestion pertaining to this.

All the other options require expensive equipment and a lot of time.  My friend has equipment for repairing,
but he does not have time for this.

The question is why the previous owner  took it off for the first time?
Why does he use the wrong screws without springs ? With the greater pressure on the blade  and ships with wrong screws,  he got it to work or not?  Did he get the blade to work 100% ?

It was not working, was sent to Bitmain and was returned with parts missing and the blade still not working. He messed around with it after that and did not manage to make it work. It is possible that it was a simple issue and was made worse.

Regardless i do not have many options to try to make it work and as i have pretty much paid nothing for it, i can only improve the situation by messing with it further. As long as i do not break the chips that could be salvaged, i don't see any issue whatsoever.

Edit i would like to add for clarity, this is what happen when i run it alone on a controller;

https://i.imgur.com/Cs5VMor.png?1

When ran with a working blade, it instead show ------------------------------------- for the ships instead of ooooooooooooooooooooooooo... etc.

[toptek]

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

Did you get that miner  used ? Too many screws . Wrong black screws and self-drilled holes in blade.
You have been scammed by seller this miner.

Yea he right they should all be sliver with springs on all of them. The screw hole look ok . just some screws don't .just looked at my S5 that came direct from bitmain it has the same holes with all silver screws with springs on every screw.

[toptek]

Do you have a less primitive mean to try to repair it than an oven? It was the only suggestion made to revive a board that i have no real use of unless it can work. If i can't revive i'll probably ship it to sidehack and thats that.

Doing this does not seem like it could damage the chips, so anything goes.

I'm very interested in any other suggestion pertaining to this.

All the other options require expensive equipment and a lot of time.  My friend has equipment for repairing,
but he does not have time for this.

The question is why the previous owner  took it off for the first time?
Why does he use the wrong screws without springs ? With the greater pressure on the blade  and ships with wrong screws,  he got it to work or not?  Did he get the blade to work 100% ?

It was not working, was sent to Bitmain and was returned with parts missing and the blade still not working. He messed around with it after that and did not manage to make it work. It is possible that it was a simple issue and was made worse.














Regardless i do not have many options to try to make it work and as i have pretty much paid nothing for it, i can only improve the situation by messing with it further. As long as i do not break the chips that could be salvaged, i don't see any issue whatsoever.

Edit i would like to add for clarity, this is what happen when i run it alone on a controller;

https://i.imgur.com/Cs5VMor.png?1

When ran with a working blade, it instead show ------------------------------------- for the ships instead of ooooooooooooooooooooooooo... etc.

question does the lite on  the board lite at all , it going  to keep showing all zero with one controller it still sees it but for some reason a power or some thing like it on the board won't work or let it connect which can be a bad solider or it needs to be remelted etc which is why  reflowing might work or it can just be gone,the chips may be ok just the power line part is bad, i don't even know how to fix that unless you know some one like he said with the right gear and time . reflowing is all ways a last resort and cost nothing and might even work . I sent two S5 boards to some one after I reflowed them he told he got one working so far , so reflowing it won't shouldn't hurt the chips unless you leave it in there to long and i did it as a last resort.

[notlist3d]

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

Did you get that miner  used ? Too many screws . Wrong black screws and self-drilled holes in blade.
You have been scammed by seller this miner.

Yea he right they should all be sliver with springs on all of them. The screw hole look ok . just some screws don't .just looked at my S5 that came direct from bitmain it has the same holes with all silver screws with springs on every screw.

You have one unique board.  I have never seen the double screw in previous post.  It is interesting though.  Was a blade sent into bitmain and that blade sent back?   Just curious if bitmain employee did it or odd batch.

But the paste looks pretty bad.  I would get some cleaner/purifier if you want to do it right.  And clean all the chips get the old stuff off.  Then put on a light covering on entire chip should see paste on all of chip.   

The nice thing with some of the pastes above is you would get multiple trys with the tubs vs the higher priced stuff. So for troubleshooting on thermal paste I would go for the tub with quite a bit of quantity of it.

[toptek]

I only offered that option of reflowing because no one else did or was offering any idea if you had got a lot more help i don't think i would have ever said a thing . .

[VirosaGITS]

Do you have a less primitive mean to try to repair it than an oven? It was the only suggestion made to revive a board that i have no real use of unless it can work. If i can't revive i'll probably ship it to sidehack and thats that.

Doing this does not seem like it could damage the chips, so anything goes.

I'm very interested in any other suggestion pertaining to this.

All the other options require expensive equipment and a lot of time.  My friend has equipment for repairing,
but he does not have time for this.

The question is why the previous owner  took it off for the first time?
Why does he use the wrong screws without springs ? With the greater pressure on the blade  and ships with wrong screws,  he got it to work or not?  Did he get the blade to work 100% ?

It was not working, was sent to Bitmain and was returned with parts missing and the blade still not working. He messed around with it after that and did not manage to make it work. It is possible that it was a simple issue and was made worse.














Regardless i do not have many options to try to make it work and as i have pretty much paid nothing for it, i can only improve the situation by messing with it further. As long as i do not break the chips that could be salvaged, i don't see any issue whatsoever.

Edit i would like to add for clarity, this is what happen when i run it alone on a controller;

https://i.imgur.com/Cs5VMor.png?1

When ran with a working blade, it instead show ------------------------------------- for the ships instead of ooooooooooooooooooooooooo... etc.

question does the lite on  the board lite at all , it going  to keep showing all zero with one controller it still sees it but for some reason a power or some thing like it on the board won't work or let it connect which can be a bad solider or it needs to be remelted etc which is why  reflowing might work or it can just be gone,the chips may be ok just the power line part is bad, i don't even know how to fix that unless you know some one like he said with the right gear and time . reflowing is all ways a last resort and cost nothing and might even work . I sent two S5 boards to some one after I reflowed them he told he got one working so far , so reflowing it won't shouldn't hurt the chips unless you leave it in there to long and i did it as a last resort.

No light, no voltage. Dead. The reflow did not work. I tried 180c 6 minutes then 190c 10 minutes but my oven must of went a bit higher since my laser thermometer went to 205c.

Still no difference. Its like its properly connected, but is not powered. Pretty sure thats what it shows when you have a board plugged thats not powered from memory but can't go test it.

Okay so heres a picture of the board, this thing has way too many screws;
https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1

1)Should this side be up or down? I wouldn't want stuff falling off if it become lose when the solder is melted! xD

2)Also this is kind of smudgey, could this cause any issues?;

https://i.imgur.com/qmND3gO.jpg?1

And for the record, here is a picture of the previous pasting job;

https://i.imgur.com/yJiHMZ7.jpg?1

Time to start cleaning.

Did you get that miner  used ? Too many screws . Wrong black screws and self-drilled holes in blade.
You have been scammed by seller this miner.

Yea he right they should all be sliver with springs on all of them. The screw hole look ok . just some screws don't .just looked at my S5 that came direct from bitmain it has the same holes with all silver screws with springs on every screw.

You have one unique board.  I have never seen the double screw in previous post.  It is interesting though.  Was a blade sent into bitmain and that blade sent back?   Just curious if bitmain employee did it or odd batch.

But the paste looks pretty bad.  I would get some cleaner/purifier if you want to do it right.  And clean all the chips get the old stuff off.  Then put on a light covering on entire chip should see paste on all of chip.  

The nice thing with some of the pastes above is you would get multiple trys with the tubs vs the higher priced stuff. So for troubleshooting on thermal paste I would go for the tub with quite a bit of quantity of it.

I think i'm the 3rd owner. Or either way i'm missing a good portion of the story. I just know it was long and annoying and in vain.

The working board has double hole as well, with the default screws+string however. The miner was sent to Bitmain from the last owner, which received the unit back with the defective blade still, and missing the metal bracket that hold the controller in place.

I think he mentioned it working at first for a bit but then dropping after some amount of minutes. He might of tried to fix it and eventually it just died for whatever reason.

It still doesn't work so no point in repasting it. If i can't fix it, it will probably be used as some sort of payment/support to Sidehack.