ANTMINER S5: 1155GH(+OverClock Potential), In Stock $0.319/GH & 0.51W/GH

[notlist3d]

You have one unique board.  I have never seen the double screw in previous post.  It is interesting though.  Was a blade sent into bitmain and that blade sent back?   Just curious if bitmain employee did it or odd batch.

But the paste looks pretty bad.  I would get some cleaner/purifier if you want to do it right.  And clean all the chips get the old stuff off.  Then put on a light covering on entire chip should see paste on all of chip.  

The nice thing with some of the pastes above is you would get multiple trys with the tubs vs the higher priced stuff. So for troubleshooting on thermal paste I would go for the tub with quite a bit of quantity of it.

I think i'm the 3rd owner. Or either way i'm missing a good portion of the story. I just know it was long and annoying and in vain.

The working board has double hole as well, with the default screws+string however. The miner was sent to Bitmain from the last owner, which received the unit back with the defective blade still, and missing the metal bracket that hold the controller in place.

I think he mentioned it working at first for a bit but then dropping after some amount of minutes. He might of tried to fix it and eventually it just died for whatever reason.

It still doesn't work so no point in repasting it. If i can't fix it, it will probably be used as some sort of payment/support to Sidehack.

I think you are right I wish we had the story behind it.  As far as I know it's kinda a one of a kind.  I have never seen 2 screws like that.  I am still wondering if somehow a RMA did it for something, or maybe someone used it for some mod and needed different positions.   Would be interesting to know.

And you chances are on right track.  If sidehack can get some chips off it might be a good deal for both sides.

[toptek]

You have one unique board.  I have never seen the double screw in previous post.  It is interesting though.  Was a blade sent into bitmain and that blade sent back?   Just curious if bitmain employee did it or odd batch.

But the paste looks pretty bad.  I would get some cleaner/purifier if you want to do it right.  And clean all the chips get the old stuff off.  Then put on a light covering on entire chip should see paste on all of chip.  

The nice thing with some of the pastes above is you would get multiple trys with the tubs vs the higher priced stuff. So for troubleshooting on thermal paste I would go for the tub with quite a bit of quantity of it.

I think i'm the 3rd owner. Or either way i'm missing a good portion of the story. I just know it was long and annoying and in vain.

The working board has double hole as well, with the default screws+string however. The miner was sent to Bitmain from the last owner, which received the unit back with the defective blade still, and missing the metal bracket that hold the controller in place.

I think he mentioned it working at first for a bit but then dropping after some amount of minutes. He might of tried to fix it and eventually it just died for whatever reason.

It still doesn't work so no point in repasting it. If i can't fix it, it will probably be used as some sort of payment/support to Sidehack.

I think you are right I wish we had the story behind it.  As far as I know it's kinda a one of a kind.  I have never seen 2 screws like that.  I am still wondering if somehow a RMA did it for something, or maybe someone used it for some mod and needed different positions.   Would be interesting to know.

And you chances are on right track.  If sidehack can get some chips off it might be a good deal for both sides.

really, i have one or two S5 with double holes in the boards i bought direct form bitmain 18 pin, i can take pic if you want and the two 16 pin boards i sent to sidehack had double holes .
16 pin boards were batch 1 mostly i think .

[RichBC]

I think you are right I wish we had the story behind it.  As far as I know it's kinda a one of a kind.  I have never seen 2 screws like that.  I am still wondering if somehow a RMA did it for something, or maybe someone used it for some mod and needed different positions.   Would be interesting to know.

Double holes have been a feature since the S1. In S1 & S3 screws without springs are fitted to both. The S5 added springs and the first Rev had two srews fitted, later versions just fitted one screw where there are pairs. V1.9 onwards the PCB layout dropped the second hole. See this post fr some pictures of the S5 Hash Board revs.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1151460.msg12164839#msg12164839

Rich

[notlist3d]

I think you are right I wish we had the story behind it.  As far as I know it's kinda a one of a kind.  I have never seen 2 screws like that.  I am still wondering if somehow a RMA did it for something, or maybe someone used it for some mod and needed different positions.   Would be interesting to know.

Double holes have been a feature since the S1. In S1 & S3 screws without springs are fitted to both. The S5 added springs and the first Rev had two srews fitted, later versions just fitted one screw where there are pairs. V1.9 onwards the PCB layout dropped the second hole. See this post fr some pictures of the S5 Hash Board revs.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1151460.msg12164839#msg12164839

Rich

Thanks for posting that I did not know of that revision.  I was thinking something different.

The odd lock of many screws being different and look made me thing it was possibly a mod - https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1 .  But appears just a mess of different screws no fun story I guess then.

[VirosaGITS]

I think you are right I wish we had the story behind it.  As far as I know it's kinda a one of a kind.  I have never seen 2 screws like that.  I am still wondering if somehow a RMA did it for something, or maybe someone used it for some mod and needed different positions.   Would be interesting to know.

Double holes have been a feature since the S1. In S1 & S3 screws without springs are fitted to both. The S5 added springs and the first Rev had two srews fitted, later versions just fitted one screw where there are pairs. V1.9 onwards the PCB layout dropped the second hole. See this post fr some pictures of the S5 Hash Board revs.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1151460.msg12164839#msg12164839

Rich

I see, and for reference, that board is V1.5.

I think the chips are probably still in working condition and after all if i could figure out whats wrong with the board, why its not getting powered, it would probably be easy to fix, its probably just a dead one little thing that could be replaced.

Repairing this would probably take time from someone that has proper expertise that probably has something better to do than spend hours testing one thing one by one. Sidehack said trying to fix it could be in the realm of possibilities.

So maybe i will do that, get it fixed and if its not fixable, strip it for part and put the chip toward his 8(?) chip design.

[marvykkio]

Finally yesterday I received the pcb I bought from Tupsu, mounted the same yesterday, functioning whole,.
this morning and burned another pcb for another miner, with platinum psu 1200w,.

I just got tired, of Bitcoin, and his bitmain of shoddy products.
even with normal frequency, temperature below 50 ° C and burned in the same?

[RichBC]

Thanks for posting that I did not know of that revision.  I was thinking something different.

The odd lock of many screws being different and look made me thing it was possibly a mod - https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1 .  But appears just a mess of different screws no fun story I guess then.

Looking at the picture L1 on the 14 Step up Converter (Top Right Corner) looks very displaced from it's pads. Would be worth checking that there is 14V coming from it? You can measure between Ground and the bottom end of R213.

Rich

[VirosaGITS]

Thanks for posting that I did not know of that revision.  I was thinking something different.

The odd lock of many screws being different and look made me thing it was possibly a mod - https://i.imgur.com/v2poeaL.jpg?1 .  But appears just a mess of different screws no fun story I guess then.

Looking at the picture L1 on the 14 Step up Converter (Top Right Corner) looks very displaced from it's pads. Would be worth checking that there is 14V coming from it? You can measure between Ground and the bottom end of R213.

Rich

I don't see a L1 written so i'm maybe blind or i have no idea what L1 is. Anyways i guess its the obvious thing i first noticed that is so obvious i was sure it couldnt be the problem;

https://i.imgur.com/1DJmNNU.png

By putting ground on either black X and + on red X i get 2.2v.

Also at big the black rectangle next to it, from both its side it look like 12v go through and i mesured voltage accross the black rectangle all over the board. I can swear the first time i checked there was no voltage at all accross the board. Now its 0.91-1 volt.

[RichBC]

The reason you cannot see L1 is because the way the inductor has moved is to cover the silk screen.   Best thing to measure is from ground (The 3 easy to get at pins on the Molex connector). And the bottom of R213 which is where you have put your red cross. Should be 14V and is the supply to the LDO regulators for the last 3 chips in the chain.

Rich

[VirosaGITS]

The reason you cannot see L1 is because the way the inductor has moved is to cover the silk screen.   Best thing to measure is from ground (The 3 easy to get at pins on the Molex connector). And the bottom of R213 which is where you have put your red cross. Should be 14V and is the supply to the LDO regulators for the last 3 chips in the chain.

Rich

Ah gotcha. It reads 14.11V. I've checked a few whatever they are between the chips. Some of them are at 0.4V some are near 0 like 45 mV some are 0.9-1V.

I'm not sure you can figure out what the problem is and help me fix it but if it happens, i'd gladly scrounge up a small bounty that i can for it.

[RichBC]

OK so the indutor has shifted but must still be soldered to the pads. Also worth checking the Core Voltage on each of the stages. Easiest way to do this is at each stage to measure across the Black Capacitor (C17 on the first stage) Should be about 0.8V on each stage.

However I have been trying to repair a board without success... So although checking those voltages is instructive I do not have the experience yet to help you repair the board. Balance of probability is that one of the Hash Chips is faulty.

Rich

[VirosaGITS]

OK so the indutor has shifted but must still be soldered to the pads. Also worth checking the Core Voltage on each of the stages. Easiest way to do this is at each stage to measure across the Black Capacitor (C17 on the first stage) Should be about 0.8V on each stage.

However I have been trying to repair a board without success... So although checking those voltages is instructive I do not have the experience yet to help you repair the board. Balance of probability is that one of the Hash Chips is faulty.

Rich

Okay i have checked every black rectangle between the chips. Lets get educational then.
I have labeled them according to what seem to be their name from top left, normal reading order;

C14 0.951V
C15 1.015V
C16 1.11V
C17 0.45V
C2 5mV
C3 4.4mV
C13 0.87V
C12 0.9V
C11 0.97V
C10 0.91V
C8 0.995V
C7 0.95V
C6 1.08V
C5 0.885V

I suppose this is easy to compare to a healthy S5 board.

[RichBC]

OK I have reordered the measurements to represent how they are connected on the board. The chain bottom is connected to 0V is C17, they then go anticlock round the board ending up at C2 which is connected to +12V.

+12V

C2 5mV
C3 4.4mV
C5 0.885V
C6 1.08V

Right hand top corner of board

C7 0.95V
C8 0.995V
C10 0.91V
C11 0.97V
C12 0.9V
C13 0.87V
C14 0.951V

Left hand top corner of board.

C15 1.015V
C16 1.11V
C17 0.45V

0V


So the obviously odd voltages are those on the top 2 stages (C2 & C3) which are very low. This will probably mean that one or both chips at those stages are low resistance, probably because one or both of the Hash Chips on those stages are short circuit? Does the board look slightly blackened around those stages? C17 is also low, indicating perhaps that one of the first stage chips is also faulty? However this is just a guess....

Rich

[VirosaGITS]

OK I have reordered the measurements to represent how they are connected on the board. The chain bottom is connected to 0V is C17, they then go anticlock round the board ending up at C2 which is connected to +12V.

+12V

C2 5mV
C3 4.4mV
C5 0.885V
C6 1.08V

Right hand top corner of board

C7 0.95V
C8 0.995V
C10 0.91V
C11 0.97V
C12 0.9V
C13 0.87V
C14 0.951V

Left hand top corner of board.

C15 1.015V
C16 1.11V
C17 0.45V

0V


So the obviously odd voltages are those on the top 2 stages (C2 & C3) which are very low. This will probably mean that one or both chips at those stages are low resistance, probably because one or both of the Hash Chips on those stages are short circuit? Does the board look slightly blackened around those stages? C17 is also low, indicating perhaps that one of the first stage chips is also faulty? However this is just a guess....

Rich

http://imgur.com/a/q0xgX

I would say no burn marks, judge by yourself. The black smudges are thin layer of cooked thermal paste i believe. They were not there when i cleaned it. The board did end up at 205C~ when i tried to oven cook it.

My camera derp out and lose focus on the chip top side, which is weird, but anyways, even though that side is blurry, its still decent enough to see i guess.

[RichBC]

Yes that board looks ok, however dependant on how it failed you it may not have overheated. I bought an S5 from ebay that had burnt itself up on losing the internet connection and the fans had stopped. It had got sufficiently hot that the side plastic pieces were very distorted. Here is the picture.



You can see the darkening on the PCB around all the chips on the right, some of that has also been made slightly worse by me removing chips.

If anyone has any recommendations on what, reasonably priced, equipment is best for removing and replacing this style of chip that would be very helpful.   I have a hot air blower which has been fine for 64 pin QFP, but I am finding that these chips need to get very hot to remove & am concerned that I am damaging them in the process.


Rich

[Richy_T]

I kind of feel like i don't want to spend money on getting more stuff than i already have on hand since i have no guarantee that this will allow the board to function. Hence, kind of wasted money.

Thermal paste is like $1 on ebay including shipping. $5 if you want to go for the fancy stuff.

[VirosaGITS]

Yes that board looks ok, however dependant on how it failed you it may not have overheated. I bought an S5 from ebay that had burnt itself up on losing the internet connection and the fans had stopped. It had got sufficiently hot that the side plastic pieces were very distorted. Here is the picture.



You can see the darkening on the PCB around all the chips on the right, some of that has also been made slightly worse by me removing chips.

If anyone has any recommendations on what, reasonably priced, equipment is best for removing and replacing this style of chip that would be very helpful.   I have a hot air blower which has been fine for 64 pin QFP, but I am finding that these chips need to get very hot to remove & am concerned that I am damaging them in the process.


Rich

Really wish you could just bypass bad sections, ugh. But i guess they were designed to be cheap to make, not easy to maintain, repair or be resilient.

I guess Sidehack would be a good one to tell you this information. Making a thread just for this fiddling would be nice but i'm afraid there's no much more i can do with my knowlewdge.

[RichBC]

I am going to keep working on my boards and will probably get there in the end. One approach I will probably take if I cannot get the hang of replacing chips is what you are saying and that is to bypass the faulty stages.

This is not quite as simple as it sounds as the chips and level shifters need to be removed then the signals connected directly to the next stage and the voltage reduced to allow for the shorter chain. It does however require the first stage to be operational as that has the oscillator.

If I can get to grips with repairing hash boards and also ideally making pre V1.91 boards undervolt I will post up all the information.

However If it fails, and will go with one board anyway, with Sidehacks latest recycling project which is a very attractive alternative. 


Rich

[VirosaGITS]

I am going to keep working on my boards and will probably get there in the end. One approach I will probably take if I cannot get the hang of replacing chips is what you are saying and that is to bypass the faulty stages.

This is not quite as simple as it sounds as the chips and level shifters need to be removed then the signals connected directly to the next stage and the voltage reduced to allow for the shorter chain. It does however require the first stage to be operational as that has the oscillator.

If I can get to grips with repairing hash boards and also ideally making pre V1.91 boards undervolt I will post up all the information.

However If it fails, and will go with one board anyway, with Sidehacks latest recycling project which is a very attractive alternative. 


Rich

Then i wish you good luck.

I invite you to start a thread and act as a journal, so that people can keep track, learn and give feedback.

Personally it would be of interest to keep track of.

It's a bit bothersome for me since I have plenty of time to put time on repairing this board, but i'm afraid without some sort of map that show me what everything should be at, i can't figure out what the problem is. And once i figure it out, i don,t even have the pieces to repair the board.

In your case if you had several dead boards. You could more reliably just swap bad parts and probably be able to get a high % of dead board working by cannibalizing the rest of the boards.

[marvykkio]

I have 2 pcb defective S5 today I try to study the 18-pin connector, which seems stained, and short.