Thanks for the idea. The problem i have with tape is that it does not cover properly the led because of capacitors and such very close to the LED that gets in the way of the tape holding down. And after time, the tape unstick with the air blowing against it.
|
|
|
Today i had a S5 throw thousands of errors in a short time, for the course of 30 minutes, almost all shares were Hardware errors. Does anything have any clues as to what could of happen aid if i should just overlook it?
|
|
|
Bitcoin is perfectly fungible, this dude is clueless.
You people really need to dig into your economics book and stop conflating privacy with fungibility.
I get his point and i watched until the end, but i think he is wrong. Buying btc/blocks from 0x address is like buying non sequential bills at a premium. Or collection piece coins. They are all perfectly fungible. What a weird word. Regardless if you do a purchase online and you need to pay 0.69BTC' it doesn't matter if it come from coins with no previous history or if its the most used, whore-y coin ever.
|
|
|
I don't understand. Which applications? All of the Bitcoin software you can download from official Web sites. You can check them for viruses on www.virustotal.com. You can also check all of the Sha hashes provided with Sha calculator. In this way you can be sure that the hashes match and that nobody has messed with the softwares. ok thank you ..I thought about a serious plattform like filehippo for Bitcoin Software (Wallets, Trading,etc) but virustotal will help, too ![Smiley](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) The official core wallet is at https://bitcoin.org/en/From there go to getting started, choose your wallet, then that has a link to all other wallets. I recommend a SPV one to avoid hours of syncing time and taking up tons of space for the Block chain unless that is not a problem for you.
|
|
|
No, I haven't, but I would try if i find a shop accepts bitcoin.
Where are you located? I will help you find one. I know a couples that do worldwide and if you're in north american then its very easy.
|
|
|
OP created a new account then posted this question on 4th October, 14 days ago and hasn't been back since. Why do people do that, it really fucks me off ![Huh](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/huh.gif) . Maybe they are trying to generate discussion for their main account? No i really don't know. Half the questions in beginner/help and mining support i reply to are single post account that post and don't even log back in after that. Is it that hard to make a bookmark and come back to it later on? Or are they just giving up on BTC instantly because its "so much trouble"?
|
|
|
You should ask this wuestion in the Mining board.
Do you really want to never see the lights? That seems silly. Just get sone black poster board snd cut out pieces that will fit over the LEDs, that way it block the lights but doesnt impair the function of the machine.
It wasn't directly related to mining so i wasn't sure where to post. I absolutely don't want to see their flash. With a layer of electric tape, i can see if the led is flashing when directly looking at it since a smidgen of light make it through, which is ideal. So a thin layer of whatever i could put on it should do. Its just there's components around the led and that block the tape from properly covering it. I'd just need something non conductive. If you ever had a Antminer S1, then maybe you would feel my pain. That bunch of S1 would give someone an epilepsy attack. Its like a crazy rave show. You can manually disconnect the LED cables from inside the miner it would also save you some power. The Antminer S1 won't be profitable for long so it might be a good time to sell it. They're going to be fine for the next 8 months, especially since its going to be cold/cool for all that time, and then the halving. But thats going off topic. I think i'll suffer the 75mWatt waste and just cover them. I don't want to actually modify any sort of circuitry. There has something simple and inexpensive i can slap over.. It depends on the miner. Some will be really simple to block others are spread around a little more or have LEDs closer to fans. I would suggest using what you have free, and at hand that wont damage miner. I use electrical tape for many things but its not going to be good long term holding on a hot miner. I would either use some material that does not show though. Maybe as cheap as cardboard you could cut it in the perfect design and use electrical tape around the edge. You will have to replace tape every so often but it gives you a chance to clean that stickyness. So not really a bad thing just clean each time you replace it. It should last a while. That sound like a lot of trouble for 28 led :S. At this point i would had just spreaded canned paint on them if it was non conductive. So i need something a bit more one time that i can just spread over and not have to spend a ton of time and tape to maintain.
|
|
|
Uhh, there is no possible way to make money mining bitcoin with a GPU. It's that simple, you need to mine altcoins or the like. I suggest you do some research on mining before creating unneeded threads.
Its possible to make money with a GPU if you have free power. Mining altcoins is not as profitable as it was and you need to have very cheap power for GPU mining to be profitable. I suggest researching ASIC mining. I do make money with GPU as well, but that is a discussion that belong in the Altcoin section. So it would probably be best to let this thread die or lock it, now.
|
|
|
I GOT A BLOCK!!!! 379339
I just logged into my Blockchain wallet and the coins were there... I can order that new antminer now...
Could you tell us what you were pointing on the solo pool? Maybe i would be inspired to put more hashrate toward this if its something i could spare.
|
|
|
Meanwhile, this only leave obtaining the tool i need. It look like i can get the tool for 9USD shipped from ebay, but i'd be likely to get it in time for Christmas. So if anyone know where online i could get on from a seller already in NA for up to 15USD~, i would like to know. Ironically, i can't find it on Home depot's website. If not, then thanks you for everyone who participated in this thread. I may very well post the results later on. ![Smiley](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) I do actually have a working S5 blade, but it's a 16-pin and all I have hare 18-pin controllers so I haven't done anything past test it. Unfortunately it's larger than the box I'd use, which is a standard flat-rate size. I could rebid shipping with a different package. The next size up in standard flat-rate boxes is about $45 (instead of $22) and it's big enough to fit three of my 750W PSU kits in it so that'd easily hold an S5 blade and a bunch of other stuff. I also have some S[odd] fans but they go with all my S[odd] heatsinks and I want to use them for stuff someday.
I don't know what tool you'll want to use for the crimp pins. The one I have is pretty high-dollar but it's built to be used a little more thoroughly than the $20 pliers-types you get off eBay. We've only made about ten thousand cables and the cheapies wouldn't cut that mustard but for a couple dozen 'bout anything should work.
Understood. Let see what kind of agreement we can come to, but this portion will be continued in PM lest this become a marketplace thread.
|
|
|
Yes interesting numbers, why id 5S3 running at half speed, is it just a single board?
I have come to the conclusion that there is a lot of variance between Systems and also between individual boards. I have running at hope two S5 at 250Mhz, one system undervolted to 10V the other running at 10.3V. I have put the best 2 boards in the first system. There is however quite a variance in the HW Error rate & the board temperature. I will post up the numbers when I get home.
Rich
Correct. I bought half a S5, which is why i'm trying to find a working S5 blade to slot it in, it would be pretty simple, but so far no luck. It look like the boards, at factory setting do perform nearly exactly the same however, but i do not know why when "we" push them down or up you start seeing differences as i'm not very knowledgeable about electronic fabrication. Ok here's what I have been running with for the last couple of Weeks. http://www.slotforum.com/forums/uploads/1444996927/gallery_2150_2322_146958.jpgIt's a single S5 Controller with 4 Hash Boards connected. 250MHz with the best two Boards undervolted to 10V & the less good pair at 10.3V. Am using the pairs of 5V Meanwell PSU's to power it. Hashes at 1650GH/S and takes 615W at the wall giving 0.373J/GH. It's just in my target HW error rate at 0.222% but more importantly the actual Hash rate matches the Theoretical Hash rate. The boards are arranged in the systems by how good they are and you can see that the best two run at 35 & 37 Degrees and the worst two at 41Degrees. Will probably run with this setup until I replace it with individual Buck Converters for each board, assuming they give a better result? Rich It could, i'm not sure about the variation in temp, i think it just depend on where the sensor is on the board, if its closer to intake, it will read lower even though overall the board is at the same temperature as the other. However i noticed that if you don't put two fans, one of the board is actually fairly hotter than the other, and if you put them on the side, the top board seem to heat up more, probably because of thermodynamics... i mean the how air likes to go up.
|
|
|
You should ask this wuestion in the Mining board.
Do you really want to never see the lights? That seems silly. Just get sone black poster board snd cut out pieces that will fit over the LEDs, that way it block the lights but doesnt impair the function of the machine.
It wasn't directly related to mining so i wasn't sure where to post. I absolutely don't want to see their flash. With a layer of electric tape, i can see if the led is flashing when directly looking at it since a smidgen of light make it through, which is ideal. So a thin layer of whatever i could put on it should do. Its just there's components around the led and that block the tape from properly covering it. I'd just need something non conductive. If you ever had a Antminer S1, then maybe you would feel my pain. That bunch of S1 would give someone an epilepsy attack. Its like a crazy rave show. You can manually disconnect the LED cables from inside the miner it would also save you some power. The Antminer S1 won't be profitable for long so it might be a good time to sell it. They're going to be fine for the next 8 months, especially since its going to be cold/cool for all that time, and then the halving. But thats going off topic. I think i'll suffer the 75mWatt waste and just cover them. I don't want to actually modify any sort of circuitry. There has something simple and inexpensive i can slap over..
|
|
|
Yes in general I would expect performance to be better when cold than hot. I have however as detailed in my earlier post sometimes seen a high error rate when first switched on that then reduces. This may or not be temperature related?
Not sure that I fully understand the table above? What was the voltage for the tests? Would be good to have some column headings on the table?
Rich
Stock. I don't have undervolt or overvolt capabilities, this show the difference between the boards. The 0.006% is over a long period of time, so its temps. Even though it does take a while to stabilize the HWE% over time, it does go down as well, not just start up. The S4 is like that. HWE tend to go down a bit after start. But that just seem to me like most ASIC like to start with some HW. Here is the header, not that it will give much more information; ![](https://ip.bitcointalk.org/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FusPSG94.png%3F1&t=665&c=zgsUEKG5yheRUw) This just show that v1.91 has some capability to stabilize the chip's voltage slightly, which may be what the oscillator were intended to do when put in place. Enabling us to feed it down/over volted current is probably a side effect. The input voltage is the same for #1 and #3 (and #2 is effectively the same too but #1 #3 has the same source and same reading) yet they have different HWE%. The chips are the same, controllers are the same, etc. You know better than me what that leave as reasons.
|
|
|
Yeah, I just didn't think they were THAT temperamental. Sometimes I can't go below 12.25V or it complains. Why 60 seconds?
The biggest issue I've been encountering so far is that when undervolted it will run and hash for 60 seconds, then at that one minute mark, it will start bitching and stop hashing.
I only see that feature when I am very undervolted down at levels below 8.9V, however I suspect what you are seeing is the problem of undervolting a board other than V1.91? As I see that VirosaGITS has also just suggested. ![Smiley](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Rich I want to add more observations between the different boards versions; #1 = v1.91 #2 = v1.3 #3 = v1.5 ![](https://ip.bitcointalk.org/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FByYXQS3.png%3F1&t=665&c=T7h7prHrQ0d1Ow) All the 3 different board like the cold. v1.91 is showing 0%, its at 11 HW atm. v1.3 and v1.5 behave the same way, i don't know the differences between the boards but it does not seem to be performance related. The v1.91 does perform marginally better. #1 and #3 is powered by the same, brand new EVGA GS, PSU. #2 is on a EVGA G2 1k Difference of v1.3 and v1.5 at these temps vs hot 60c~ is 0.0035%~ vs 0.006%~
|
|
|
So I'm finding this about as simple as trying to program a monkey-driven rocket trip to Pluto.
Trying to get bitcoin today.
Went the paypal route to VirWox, put in a transaction that supposedly went through.
Downloaded Armory wallet.
Then had to download bitcoin, since I got a message directing me to do that.
Nothing in the Armory wallet from the paypal transaction though.
So I then try to fire off an interac-transfer through quickbt.com
Again, transaction goes through, but nothing in Armory wallet.
Armory is giving me this message "Downloading via Armory CDN", and a torrent rate, along with "7 hours" (was 8 earlier).
Can someone please advise me as to what is going on, and also if there is any possibility of actually getting some bitcoin today, please advise on that method as well.
Thank you.
Dude when you download a wallet software ...they always download all the transactions from starting blocks to blocks now....so u have to wait to get the blocks downloaded AFAIK only bitcoincore downloads the whole blockchain, other wallet software doesnt Its not the only full verification wallet. Armory also is full verification, according to bitcoin.org. Tho most others are indeed SPV- Simplified Payment Verification.
|
|
|
You should ask this wuestion in the Mining board.
Do you really want to never see the lights? That seems silly. Just get sone black poster board snd cut out pieces that will fit over the LEDs, that way it block the lights but doesnt impair the function of the machine.
It wasn't directly related to mining so i wasn't sure where to post. I absolutely don't want to see their flash. With a layer of electric tape, i can see if the led is flashing when directly looking at it since a smidgen of light make it through, which is ideal. So a thin layer of whatever i could put on it should do. Its just there's components around the led and that block the tape from properly covering it. I'd just need something non conductive. If you ever had a Antminer S1, then maybe you would feel my pain. That bunch of S1 would give someone an epilepsy attack. Its like a crazy rave show.
|
|
|
I'd be happy to buy em for ya & ship em to ya via USPS (preferred as its easier) or UPS or whatever ![Grin](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/grin.gif) 5 of these= $5 60 pins= $4.50 total=$9.50 Priority USPS (2-3 days) is $8.00 (to me) so $17.51.Then to ship to you $$$ Shipping to me: https://i.imgur.com/gFzCIdR.jpgPM me some shipping info for you & I'll see if I can save ya some cash ![Cool](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/cool.gif) Maybe not time though ![Sad](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/sad.gif) Thanks for your kind offer, but as you already saw, Sidehack is offering me a nice deal. However, where do you click when you,re on that page to check out? If you're needing standard 6-pin PCIe and the crimp pins for 'em, heck I got that. I can sell you 30 cables worth, drop it in a flat-rate priority box and ship it to Canada for $30 total.
Um, yeah, i'm interested, considering we're talking about fixing all my cables + fix all my PCI-e cables problem for a long time by making more, for a fraction of what a set of these cost from retailers or EVGA's own website. I'd take the offer strait away, but its Sunday, so meanwhile i'm wondering if there's anything else i'd want to buy from you. Dont suppose you have some huskless working S3's you'd want to part with for cheap huh? Maybe some S1's fan lying around (JDH1238B)? A working S5 blade? Something you might actually have; Long S5 cables 18pins(I'd take 2* 16 pins too)? Okay okay i get you're not a one stop shop but i figured i'd ask. Anything under 0.15$/GH even at S3~ efficiency is very good for me. Whatever your answer is, worse case scenario drop me the Quote in PM with a BTC address to send the money to and i'll fill it before Monday. And drop me your address too if you want, i'd like to know what it would cost me to ship you the dead S5 blade, just trying to find more atm. Just one thing i need to know, what is the tool i need to crimp those female PCI-e pins? You can get straight PCIe cables from Klondike_Bar or myself here in Canada. You could just splice them on, they are 16awg and as high of quality than what ships on pretty much any ATX PSU.
I believe i asked you for a quote for the long 18pins cable today, but no reply popped on my watchlist. I think i asked if you had a page with a list of everything you have and the pricing scheme for them. Do you have one?
|
|
|
It look like they do, however; USPS First Class International (15-30 days) $7.99 or UPS Standard $19.20 A bit expensive or slow as hell for 14$ of stuff. Also, they sell 4pack of female pins for 0.3$ or you can get 6 females pins for twice the price, 0.6$ as an option coming with the plastic connectors. Did i miss something, like they need different connectors or its just a marketing trick? Its too bad they don't do better prices for bulk orders, i'd be inclined to make my own cables from now on, but they don't seem to be posed for good deals for Canadians, and for the items i checked, they only have "pricing" for 1+, no 10+ or 100+. ![Sad](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/sad.gif) Edit: Also i can't seem to checkout, the shipping estimator doesnt make sense, adding some pins to the connector order make the shipping go up to 70$ which is plain derp. So i tried to see what quote they really give me but at my cart/checkout i can't seem to click anywhere to actually try to place the order. It's nothing against Canadians it just is higher to ship to it for them. You can get it cheaper if you are willing to wait. But you will not find fast and cheap I'm afraid unless it's a site in Canada. I would get the cheap shipping and just wait unless you need it there like now then bite the bullet and pay extra. Yeah but the cheap shipping disappear the second you add any significant amount of items to the carts. And it doesnt actually seem possible to check out, not sure if the site is bugged or what, but 50$ for slow shipping for 20 connectors and 120pins is insane. It really goes from 8$ shipping to minimum 30$ the second i added 60 pins to the 10 initial connector. It would be cheaper to buy them separately, but the quote system and the whole checkout system seem bugged out.
|
|
|
Indeed, its easy to get upset at someone on this forum, there is always someone here that want and try to attack you for whatever reasons. Its very easy when you are not face to face, to judge and look down on someone.
I/we have to deal with people that aren't happy with your post and they either attack you and try to make you act out, or go behind your back and complain to the campaign manager instead of talking it out with you.
Its hard for me to not talk/attack back but this forum and the good people on it are worth it, so it would be best to suck it up and move on. Its what i try to do.
Its hard to properly vehiculate ideas in a way that won't be misinterpreted because English isint my main language, but its not worth acting out.
I think Marco is pretty understanding, so i would suck it up and move on with any issues you still have here and stay with this campaign if "you" still can. This campaign is definitively worth our "110%".
|
|
|
It look like they do, however; USPS First Class International (15-30 days) $7.99 or UPS Standard $19.20 A bit expensive or slow as hell for 14$ of stuff. Also, they sell 4pack of female pins for 0.3$ or you can get 6 females pins for twice the price, 0.6$ as an option coming with the plastic connectors. Did i miss something, like they need different connectors or its just a marketing trick? Its too bad they don't do better prices for bulk orders, i'd be inclined to make my own cables from now on, but they don't seem to be posed for good deals for Canadians, and for the items i checked, they only have "pricing" for 1+, no 10+ or 100+. ![Sad](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/sad.gif) Edit: Also i can't seem to checkout, the shipping estimator doesnt make sense, adding some pins to the connector order make the shipping go up to 70$ which is plain derp. So i tried to see what quote they really give me but at my cart/checkout i can't seem to click anywhere to actually try to place the order.
|
|
|
|