AJ thanks for posting this.
You saved several of us some time even thinking about it, and can come straight here to copy yours in readiness for our Compac's.
or just buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/221661361513?not saying it is better I am waiting on my 5 cables to arrive. for all I know they will work poorly Yeah, that too. i was looking into Molex to USB power + data on ebay, but you think i could find something? there is this though: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-5V-2Pin-IDE-Molex-to-USB-A-Female-Power-Charge-Cable-Cord-35cm/32297387976.html but it would be nice if it was UAB-A-M to USB-A-F with IDE Molex 5V rail spliced in.. I was thinking of getting one of these and taking the power plug side, and splicing a molex plug on.. Next idea: multiple USB jacks to only power these types of cords.. only need several USB jacks, a proto-board and a Molex plug |
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Parts are ordered for sticks. We should see them end of this week, about the same time stencils show up. Hopefully I'll be assembling by Friday. Also hopefully we have word by Friday of the friggin' pick-and-place shipping and hopefully it actually gets delivered this time.
still in china? lemmie get in my dingy and paddle across the channel and get the spurs out? if only you were a few hundred Kays away, I'd saddle up skippy and come and help.. |
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BOOM  P0RN! someone get me a towel!! |
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I'm going to redo the wiring, have 4 wires to the plug itself, then I'm going to show how to just do a power wire to plug modification..
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I'd recommend soldering individual lanes from each plug back to the molex connection. Otherwise as you add high-current devices the voltage drop gets successively worse for each plug.
good point. One slight correction to the first post - on DC wiring, the wire with the line / dashes is usually actually the positive. There is, unfortunately, no unified marking across all devices (e.g. band on diode = cathode, band on SMD polarized cap = positive) but at least within classes it tends to be. Good thing to measure, regardless, as there's always exceptions. Would also be good to see a mod done to a hub that doesn't already have an external power option - though the procedure is very similar  wiring is all up to the fab labs, speaker wire has markings similar to this, but the amount of colours and markings can change depending on application at the time. as for the "self powered" hubs, i do have a hub with plugs that go both ways if you want to see that go up in smoke too? |
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Sydney, Australia
Cost for 10 with post??
Well, they are 0.1btc each, so 1btc for 10, and i cant say exactly what postage would be, but $15 should cover you |
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Well, heres something: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1152953i might even go as far as to show you how NOT to do it!  That could be entertaining, what with the magic blue smoke and all. But don't burn your house down. Where would your kangaroo live? oddly enough, skippy loves the wreck out the back, the one his mother bodyslammed >_> |
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[WORK] This is where the road to many mistakes start: First thing, pop open the case:  As you can see, there is rather large tracks on the PCB already from the Barrel plug:  Which I Removed, I'm going to solder the Molex plug to this point:  Oh, I almost forgot the most nessecary tool for this type of project, The Multimeter!!  As you can see, I have another Molex plug ready to solder in Now this is where you start stripping wires:  Solder them wires into the empty points on the PCB:  F%#@ S*%! BALLS! its 5V not 12V!!  Yellow is 12V  Red is 5V  So lets try that again! Following the track from the rail off the barrel plug, the pin for the middle is positive, that is the spade that is on the back of the barrel plug, and soldered onto the board where the single track tracing around to each connection. Easy way to test this is plugging in the hub to a USB port, finding an earth, and testing the solder points on the track. From here we solder the Red wire to the solder point on the board related to the 5V  Cleaning a bit of the green solder mask off the tracks, I tin the exposed tracks (yes, i did change the layout a little with the wiring, its going to be a little choppy now)  then from here, I soldered on a thicker bodge wire across from the main wire to the plug:  (as you can see, no extra exposed tinned tracks, told'ya its gonna get choppy) And continue with the bodge bridging:  or you could go from the main solder point, and across to the power pin on the plug.. [TO BE CONTINUED] |
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[PREREQUISITES] What we need:  The Hub, duuur pliers, to remove and hold components Solder flux A screwdriver, to open the case (mine was clip shut, used hands to pop it open)  the wire that we are going to use, as you can see, the male Molex plug is what we need  As you can see, this hub has a barrel connection, if you don't want to go any further, use the wire off the power pack, check to see which wire is the middle barrel, that's the positive, push the wire into the Red wire on the female Molex plug. the other is negative, that goes into one of the 2 black wire connectors. From here on, we get into soldering up heavier wiring onto the hub.. |
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[INTRO] Well, let me start with what the searches say. I bet there is plenty of people who have done this type of mod in some way, fashion or form.. Well, for starters, here is an old post with a list of hubs that could be used with the old Block Eruptors, and then some: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=253749.0Here is a newbie making their own modified powered USB hub: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=801230.0as TheRealSteve said you could just force feed power into the usb power wires: ... That can be as simple as severing Vbus (V+ / the red wire), connecting the positive of your power supply where Vbus used to connect (or connecting it closer to the actual ports on the hub (in case the traces are pretty narrow and you're not too sure the traces will handle the current), connecting your power supply's negative where USB GND (V- / the black wire) connects, and off you go. You can add some capacitors for stability or make the circuit a bit more intelligent (google 'USB power injector'), but it pretty much comes down to that first sentence. I picked a USB hub that basically has that intelligent bit and whatnot already built-in so I can just plug external power in with a barrel jack, but it is a bit power limited, so I also have a small board where I've only done the 'sever the red wire' approach that's been running my engineering sample Compac for some higher speed tests, but efficiency goes down the gutter at those higher rates I have a cheap and nasty USB 7 port thing off Ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320785264621 what ever you do, don't pull 1A off them 2A bricks, they make nice fireworks... So, I have a barrel connection in this thing, could just cut the wire off the brick and splice it into a PSU, but that's easy! On this one I got, they have the wiring the wrong way around, the negative painted wire(the one with the white stripe) is not negative! luckily I found this out with a multimeter! So, lets move on and get the tools, items, wires and workspace needed |
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Currently I don't think cgminer is able to set different frequencies for sticks in the same cgminer instance. Since hotswap support became the standard and the -S flag disappeared I'm not sure what's required to specify devices in separate instances anymore.
i think it can, but you have to know which stick is in which port, and you have to number them correctly, its an augment set at run, i'll read the documents later and see how wrong i am. Well, i think i might be wrong? there is a Advance USB options that lets you tell cgminer whats connected: Advanced USB options:
The --usb option can restrict how many USB devices are found:
--usb 1:2,1:3,1:4,1:*
or
--usb BAS:1,BFL:1,MMQ:0,ICA:0,KLN:0
or
--usb :10
You can only use one of the above 3
The first version
--usb 1:2,1:3,1:4,1:*
allows you to select which devices to mine on with a list of USB
bus_number:device_address
All other USB devices will be ignored
Hotplug will also only look at the devices matching the list specified and
find nothing new if they are all in use
You can specify just the USB bus_number to find all devices like 1:*
which means any devices on USB bus_number 1
This is useful if you unplug a device then plug it back in the same port,
it usually reappears with the same bus_number but a different device_address
You can see the list of all USB devices on linux with 'sudo lsusb'
Cgminer will list the recognised USB devices
with the '-n' option or the
'--usb-dump 0' option
The '--usb-dump N' option with a value of N greater than 0 will dump a lot
of details about each recognised USB device
If you wish to see all USB devices, include the --usb-list-all option
The second version
--usb BAS:1,BFL:1,MMQ:0,ICA:0,KLN:0
allows you to specify how many devices to choose based on each device
driver cgminer has - the current USB drivers are:
AVA, BAS, BFL, BF1, DRB, HFA, ICA, KLN and MMQ.
N.B. you can only specify which device driver to limit, not the type of
each device, e.g. with BAS:n you can limit how many BFL ASIC devices will
be checked, but you cannot limit the number of each type of BFL ASIC
Also note that the MMQ count is the number of MMQ backplanes you have
not the number of MMQ FPGAs
The third version
--usb :10
means only use a maximum of 10 devices of any supported USB devices
Once cgminer has 10 devices it will not configure any more and hotplug will
not scan for any more
If one of the 10 devices stops working, hotplug - if enabled, as is default
- will scan normally again until it has 10 devices
--usb :0 will disable all USB I/O other than to initialise libusb
which I'm sure you could use this to tell cgminer what speed to run each device at.. Maybe get ck- to pop in and tell me what I'm thinking wrong? Alas, this is the Sales thread, not the discussion thread, if it wasn't for the price of milk here in aussieland, I'd have another BTC in sides wallet for 10 more of these sticks :< maybe i should stop milking up my coffees.. I'm not afraid of some soldering, or using a meter. But I'm not sure how you did this.
Does anyone have a guide?
While waiting for AJRGale's guide - the short of it is that instead of using the USB host for power, you use an external (5V!) power supply. That can be as simple as severing Vbus (V+ / the red wire), connecting the positive of your power supply where Vbus used to connect (or connecting it closer to the actual ports on the hub (in case the traces are pretty narrow and you're not too sure the traces will handle the current), connecting your power supply's negative where USB GND (V- / the black wire) connects, and off you go. You can add some capacitors for stability or make the circuit a bit more intelligent (google 'USB power injector'), but it pretty much comes down to that first sentence. I picked a USB hub that basically has that intelligent bit and whatnot already built-in so I can just plug external power in with a barrel jack, but it is a bit power limited, so I also have a small board where I've only done the 'sever the red wire' approach that's been running my engineering sample Compac for some higher speed tests, but efficiency goes down the gutter at those higher rates working on it, I'm pulling up some old threads that people have discussed and done this said build too, just for extra clarity. i might even go as far as to show you how NOT to do it! |
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That's exactly what I did for a hub, and it's run me just fine. I ran nine sticks pulling an amp each and the tenth port driving a Pi, ran perfect.
I'm not afraid of some soldering, or using a meter. But I'm not sure how you did this. Does anyone have a guide? When I get mine done, I'll photograph the steps I take and make a new thread with it, i'll tidy up my work table and charge camera batteries.. but i do remember some old posts back in the usb block eruptor days with people showing off their builds |
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Also, I just noticed that one of the four sticks I had running at 275 (15.1GH) pulled a 208M share sometime in the last few days, which puts them, by highest share, well ahead of the S4+ that's been running since Saturday (46M).
Interesting would be to have several of these sticks pointed to http://solo.ckpool.org/ and see what happens  two sidehack and 1 u-2 http://solo.ckpool.org/users/1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje"bestshare": 255,764,049.1084682jee, and my U3 has only gotten "bestshare": 2171759.8444529232 i remember pulling ~170M on kano.is pool with 2x New-r-boxs |
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the CP2012 requires the 5V off the usb side, cutting the power will shutdown the chip, acting as if you pull the usb cable.
with mine that is OC'ed to 250MHz and pulling 0.8V, at the wall from my Platinum rated PSU, im pulling about 65-70W, right now i have the PSU connected to a atom based motherboard, running Spinrite on a laptop HDD, its pulling 90W.
i was wondering about the heatsink/stand for the base, has anyone modified these, strapped an extra fan to them? larger sink? im thinking of getting an old 100W videocards heatsink and bolting it to the board, i just need to drill mounting points into the heatsink..
none the less, pushing the power up (via cgminer) a little should stop it from be unstable, mine has been running non-stop for 9 days since i plugged the PSU into a motherboard. if not, Cron job to reset cgminer? iirc cgminer has a reset usb option, so if something goes zombie it resets it..
Well, you posted that about the 5V after I went to do something else, and I figured what the hell, cut the red wire on 1 (not the good cable). That 1 has been hashing away for about 1hr now, with the red wire cut. I think that may be the problem with the U3's, they got the CP2012 trying to pull 5V off USB and pulling 5V from the board. Some kind of power overload of the CP2012?? Going to let it run till morning and see if it's still going. If it's still going and hashing happy, will let it go till it stops. Ha, sorry! the CP2012's are finicky little things, i bought myself a few extras to replace blown ones (they don't like being in the middle of 2 earth levels.) so i would not be surprised that it is the 2 voltages making it spit the dummy. oh well, if it works perfectly, i know what im doing  |
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Currently I don't think cgminer is able to set different frequencies for sticks in the same cgminer instance. Since hotswap support became the standard and the -S flag disappeared I'm not sure what's required to specify devices in separate instances anymore.
i think it can, but you have to know which stick is in which port, and you have to number them correctly, its an augment set at run, i'll read the documents later and see how wrong i am. I like to think I could beat that price point for a 20-port hub, but I shouldn't claim that until doing some more design work. I've been stalled on hardware dev for a couple weeks and haven't really made much progress on the powered hub already in development.
My test sticks pulled right around 1.4A from a solid 5V to hit 16.5GH (300MHz), but closer to 1.2A for 275MHz (15.1GH).
Those hash rates are very nice for that ampage  The stick miners definitely look bad ass! Would be interested in any hub you develop as well. At 1.2A I might be able to power the miners on the 49 port hub...but it would be pushing the limits well at freq 250 my 2 test sticks use 1.07 amps and 1.12 amps I still have the nice 19 port hubs you sold to me and I have 2 port bridges. I also ordered some of these cables http://www.ebay.com/itm/221661361513?and here i am is getting a cheap'n'nasty china special 7 port hub and soldering in heavy wiring with a molex plug for a PSUs 5V rail.. i wanna release the magic blue smoke! |
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the CP2012 requires the 5V off the usb side, cutting the power will shutdown the chip, acting as if you pull the usb cable.
with mine that is OC'ed to 250MHz and pulling 0.8V, at the wall from my Platinum rated PSU, im pulling about 65-70W, right now i have the PSU connected to a atom based motherboard, running Spinrite on a laptop HDD, its pulling 90W.
i was wondering about the heatsink/stand for the base, has anyone modified these, strapped an extra fan to them? larger sink? im thinking of getting an old 100W videocards heatsink and bolting it to the board, i just need to drill mounting points into the heatsink..
none the less, pushing the power up (via cgminer) a little should stop it from be unstable, mine has been running non-stop for 9 days since i plugged the PSU into a motherboard. if not, Cron job to reset cgminer? iirc cgminer has a reset usb option, so if something goes zombie it resets it..
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$30 Each pair? is that $30 for the 2? or $60 for the both?
also, shipping to Australia, im guessing about $80-100 for them?
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why do i smell ceramic hearing elements under heatsinks?
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Heh, just looked though my parts bin, only found 1 stick with 1030, its a DDR2, not the DDR3 1040 you are after..
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