works with 2500bb with adjustable voltage ? i'd assume it should
I just checked it, and it doesn't. And I can't see anything that we can connect to make it work at first sight. The internals are different between the 2000BB and the 2500BB. I'll have a look at a 1600BB if I still have one in stock, but it should be the same as 2000BB. |
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Does this product even exist or was it just another dream that people fell for and they blindly gave their money to a bunch of theives who ran away with the money?
He shipped at the start, but apparently did not continue to provide the hardware for purchasers. I was looking to get one of these so I am pretty happy I lost track of the project, and never ordered! An interested product, but no answer from Technobit about the DICE... From what I can see, Technobit doesn't exist anymore, even if the website is still functionnal and you can even process an order up to the bank transfert payment ( don't do it unless you want to loose your money). I'd be really curious to know how many people ended up being screwed by them and how much money was involved. Did they pay upfront all their suppliers or do they have some debts there too? I feel really lucky that I received all my orders from them, even if they were not many of them and the amount wasn't too high. Martin even sent me some replacement (empty) pcbs for the Hex16A1 after I got one burnt to death. |
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I'm confused. The J4bbrwock breakout board I see on Holybitcoin.com only have 12 PCI-E connector each. I order 2 of them which is 24 ports max, how come yours boards have more ports? Also is the digital display something you add on to the board as I don't see that from Holybitcoin either. My brother and I order 4 of these boards today. http://holybitcoin.com/product/dps-2000bb-breakout-adapter-board/We also went with the 3000 RPM ULTRAKAZE fans you recommended as well. 30 ports would definitely be more useful then 24. The 4kw board is a new product, Holybitcoin only got 2 or 3 of them for evaluation purpose. He'll have a small batch in early january, and Finksy will also manufacture locally for the North America market. |
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Did I forget to add a second sideplate?
you can use a push/pull setup 2 fans on each side to improve the airflow and still get something really quiet.
The Ultrakaze are among my favorite fans. Not too loud, powerful and available at a fair price.
Regarding the quality of the fan mount plate, unfortunately, my only other option was to rely on a company to cut them from sheet metal, and the MOQ to get a decent price was a bit too high.
And if they were cut from thicker acrylic, I wouldn't be able to source any fitting dual locking spacer (the white plastic ones).
I may get a small cnc router in early 2016 to cut them myself from sheet metal for a similar resale price if there is enough demand.
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It's a shame the stock PSU was so useless. With a correct one, you can get quite nice results.  The only limit was the gui not allowing over 268.75 frequency. This is with a custom breakout board able to supply 2400w on 220/240v and 1800w on 110/120v |
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Yes I did I just hooked up the 2 avalon 6's and I am using the middle power setting on the 4000 watt break out board.
middle power on the lcd is 12.17 volts
just about 3500 gh for each avalon 6
I will let it settle and do more photos
but if you look above the seasonic were much lower in gh 6700gh for two
to be fair my garage was at 91f because outside temps were 72 f . About 25 f above normal
hit switch and volts moved to 12.57 on meter
gui results are nice
I am close to 3900gh x 2 = 7800gh
You can turn the small trim pot to the right to increase the voltage even further, if you wish. I set them to 11.75-12.15-12.60 or very close before shipping. The more you turn to the right, the more offset you get from the original 12v (positive or negative offset, depending on the switch position). Middle position on the trim pot gives you the results you currently have. Negative offset is limited by the PSU itself, but it seems we aren't really saving anything by undervolting. |
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To save some time and work, you can use the original connectors 4 pins microfit, I'll dig the reference. I still have a handful of connectors and crimp pins laying somewhere.
The original fans are 4 pins, and temperature controlled.
Yeah, I had considered that but wasn't sure how it would handle the different fan charactistics (ie; 1 fan instead of 3, 5000rpm instead of 12000rpm, etc). If you could post a link to the datasheet on it, that would be great and I'd give it a shot, converting over those connectors on the board would be trivial, as I pull them out anyway. I did it for one customer, and never got a complaint since he got it in april. Anyway, for those interested, Molex part numbers to connect a 4 wires PWM fan in place of the fan pack are as follow: Microfit 3.0 receptacle (4 contacts): 0430250400 Microfit 3.0 Female crimp terminals: 0430300001 (or 0430300007 if you don't want to order a full reel) I'll try to get back the pinout from a disassembled fan pack I have laying somewhere or from the pictures I sent to my customer. |
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Here is a screen shot of two avalon 6's
one is using a seasonic 1200 plat atx
one is using a meanwell 1500 watt volts adjustable.
both psu are 11.9 volts
That's 400GH difference  which one runs on which PSU? |
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Considering the S7 at 300€/TH with way better efficiency, something in the range of 200€/TH is actually a fair price.
That'd be 300€ each considering 1.4 to 1.5TH, even if they don't always reach those values.
This is a price "without PSU".
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Can you post a picture of how did you connect fan wires to the Jabber board?
There's no secret sauce to it - the fans are 12v so I just made a PCIe adapter to connect it. Just positive to positive, negative to negative - the only trick is whether or not the fan will be full speed without a PWM signal (most work like this), or use a 3 pin fan. My first rev I hard-wired it, but I had a fan die on one of them and it was a huge PIA, so I switched to making an adapter - and finally added the thermal PWM board. To save some time and work, you can use the original connectors 4 pins microfit, I'll dig the reference. I still have a handful of connectors and crimp pins laying somewhere. The original fans are 4 pins, and temperature controlled. |
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Hi all,
I just hooked up three different IBM Bladecenter H 2880W PSU's to my brand new S7's, and boy the fans on these PSU's are incredibly loud! These PSU's have a high pitched sorta whistle sound, almost kinda like the whistle you hear on a turbo. These PSU's have a pitch more noticeable than the actual miners in the room.
My question is, is there any way to make these fans quieter at all? Or a replacement for the stock fans that are quieter? Otherwise, do I have any other options? I ideally wanted to run platinum PSU's to these miners, so if there is no solution, is there a recommended replacement that you guys suggest?
Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
Server PSU's are not known for being quiet. I doubt you are able to make it what you consider "quiet". If going for less noise I traditionally would send someone twords ATX vs server psu. I don't know that I have seen much as far as making them quiet. If someone can think of one please post, I could not find quickly. I think they are just loud PSU's at end of day. They are great for their price and amount of power, not for quietness. But the problem with this is the 10 PCIE cables the S7 want's. That get's most ATX psu's where they are not to good for the job. Do you know of any ATX PSU's that are gold or platinum rated, that have slots for the 10 PCIe cables? Or a quieter sever grade PSU (I hear of people using Dell PSU's and other PSU's that run about 2000w max). Or maybe Jabberwack knows of a quieter sever PSU with one of his breakout boards? The 2880w PSU can be modded with holes in the top cover to fit 120mm fans. I believe MarkAZ did something like that. I have the reference and the pinout for the original fan plugs somewhere from when I did the mod for someone locally. The DPS2000BB can be much quieter (you can choose the fans you use since you need to add external fans). Mounting the fans with my single and dual DPS2000BB sideplates for the 4K breakout board is a little bit easier than without. |
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J4bberwock,
Its been a while since I've read this forum. What I'm about to ask may have already been asked:
Do you have anything in the works for something similar but with IBM 2880W PSU's? It might be worth coming up with something to control the voltage on the 2880 and have a digital meter for it's output voltage.
I have a little over 20 x IBM 2880's at my disposal with your breakout boards. I may invest in your setup for this present design in the future [Once all of my 2880's are in use].
Hi, I've probed the 2880w PSU for voltage control pins, and it's not easy to move it from 12v. I still need to try one easy trick just in case it'd work. The only practical way someone found until now is to use an arduino to reprogram on the fly the internal ROM of the PSU to allow different voltage outputs. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30428005&postcount=2972The same thing can probably be done to output lower voltages, but it's a bit overkill just to allow us to go from 11v to 13v |
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Decided to "make a thing" to power my S7s  . Hope some of you will appreciate this! 2X 2000w server PSUs sharing the load of the 3 S7s. Will shortly be replacing the PSUs with the 2500w versions since I'm actually pulling 4400w DC from them right now, which is 200w over their rating on each. I've adjusted the voltage output to 12.6v on the PSUs. Sweet any plans to sell your creation? hows the over volting working for you do you notice any substantial hashing gains? if he is not, I've this breakout board that does exactly the same thing: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1178099.0-load sharing -voltage adjust (11.3v to 13.0v / 11.7v to 13.7v) -optional sideplates for easier mounting of the fans. Finksy will sell them soon for the North America market, in the mean time, I'm taking care of the orders. Heh, I was actually about to post a link to your thread. That's definitely the way to go! I already had all of this equipment on hand, so I decided to make the best of it. When you have the tools to do it, only need a few made and have some spare time, it's often cheaper and more rewarding to do it yourself than to buy something that's manufactured by someone else. Your setup is quite nice, and does the job. My only concern is the fact that it takes a lot of space (assuming you'll protect the bare copper plates for your own safety) |
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Is your breakout board able to handle 5000w if DPS-2500BB are used instead of DPS-2000BB?
The board have more than enough copper thickness and layers to handle 5kw. But it seems external voltage adjust doesn't work on the 2500BB. I still need to try on the ones I have. |
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If you want to easily have the voltage adjust working, ask them if they can ship you revision number lower than S9M. If they can't, you could use some zero ohm resistors to mod according to my pictures a few posts ago. I used pins salvaged from dead DPS2000 PSUs on mine. Those resistors should do the job if the leg diameter isn't too big (looks ok on the picture, and some people used actual cut legs from resistors soldered together to replace the pins): Ebay item 201428019892 Ebay item 121097959648 Just to be safe, I'd put them in some heat shrink tube in case the actual resistor body could touch another pin. If you don't have an hot air station and a solder sucker, you can even carefully drill with a 0.7-0.8mm drill bit in the center of the solder pad that is missing the pin. Total length of the pins is 42mm. I haven't been able to source them from regular sources like digikey/mouser... Will try from my main connectors supplier. |
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La magie de la thermodynamique dis que dans un système fermé, toute énergie prise au mur sera retransmise en chaleur. Cela dit, je pense que jes ventilos consomment un peu sans chauffer, mais pour le reste... Et mon S3 chauffait bien la pièce, j'ai vécu avec la fenêtre ouverte tout l'hiver dernier  Enfin bon, dans tous les cas j'ai mis une enchère sur le S1 que tu m'as donné (merci encore), je reposterais ici une fois celui-ci reçu. les ventilateurs génèrent un mouvement et des frottements, donc, une agitation moléculaire, donc un échauffement. 1200w pris au mur = exactement 1200w de chaleur dispersée, ni plus, ni moins. Même les pertes liées à l'efficacité de l'alimentation 12v sont dissipées en chaleur. Sur le principe, tu as bien raison, quitte à dépenser de l'électricité pour se chauffer, autant essayer de la rentabiliser. |
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Decided to "make a thing" to power my S7s . Hope some of you will appreciate this! 2X 2000w server PSUs sharing the load of the 3 S7s. Will shortly be replacing the PSUs with the 2500w versions since I'm actually pulling 4400w DC from them right now, which is 200w over their rating on each. I've adjusted the voltage output to 12.6v on the PSUs. Sweet any plans to sell your creation? hows the over volting working for you do you notice any substantial hashing gains? if he is not, I've this breakout board that does exactly the same thing: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1178099.0-load sharing -voltage adjust (11.3v to 13.0v / 11.7v to 13.7v) -optional sideplates for easier mounting of the fans. Finksy will sell them soon for the North America market, in the mean time, I'm taking care of the orders. |
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We have two types of cables 16AWG and 18AWG, we noticed the Avalons have a higher hashrate while using the 16AWG rather than the 18AWG on the same PSU. Our difference was about 100GH depending on the miner. With some miners it didn't matter they always hashed at a high rate, but most of the low rates were fixed by a cable swap.
Most of our miners use the Dell 750W and this is the PSU that we keep in stock.
That's totally normal, and related to the voltage drop according to the resistance of the wires. On 2 different PCI-E cables, 36" long, one cheap 16 AWG, and one homemade with wires slightly thicker, I noticed 0.4v difference between the cheap cable and the homemade one. Less voltage at the plug of the miner also means more amps for the same wattage, so more stress on the connectors. I'm curious, are you using 16 AWG 600V wire, or 16 AWG 300V wire? I'm looking at specs from NTE wire, for example, their 16 AWG in 600V wire carries a max of 15 Amps, whereas the 300V wire is 6 Amps max. I've never used heavy-load hookup wire (i.e. 600V wire) before so I'm wondering if this is what you're referring to. Thanks For my homemade cables, I'm using 1.50mm² cross section wires (16AWG is 1.34mm²), rated 750v, 16A. My calculator gives less than 3% loss with 1 m long wire at 16A, but anyway, we'll use something closer to 7A max per wire on a 6 pins PCI-E cable, and the standard MiniFit Jr pins are rated 9A, derated to 8A for 6 pins connectors, and in perfect conditions. That's 288w (12v*3circuits*8A) That's why the KNC (and others) power connectors are melting when you ask them to supply 300 or 350w. Even the 45750 high current pins they are asking us to use are derated at 10A for a 6 pins connector. |
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We have two types of cables 16AWG and 18AWG, we noticed the Avalons have a higher hashrate while using the 16AWG rather than the 18AWG on the same PSU. Our difference was about 100GH depending on the miner. With some miners it didn't matter they always hashed at a high rate, but most of the low rates were fixed by a cable swap.
Most of our miners use the Dell 750W and this is the PSU that we keep in stock.
That's totally normal, and related to the voltage drop according to the resistance of the wires. On 2 different PCI-E cables, 36" long, one cheap 16 AWG, and one homemade with wires slightly thicker, I noticed 0.4v difference between the cheap cable and the homemade one. Less voltage at the plug of the miner also means more amps for the same wattage, so more stress on the connectors. |
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