here is the picture with what you should measure.
You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else
you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.
Thanks J4bberwock! I tested the chip as described, and on the non-working blade I do get 5V on the input, but no 3.3V on the output. Just a 0v read.  The working blade shows the correct 5V input and 3.3V output. I'm assuming this means that the AME8805 is fried. I'm certainly no good at SMD soldering, but do you think I could have this replaced by a pro? Could this failure have caused damage to any of the other components? Thanks for any other info. Hopefully I can get half my money back from the seller. This is a "big" smd part, so even with a fine tip iron, you can easily replace it. The harder thing will probably be to remoove the failed one. AME8805AEFT (the AEFT thing tells the output voltage and package, so it needs to be AEFT) can be ordered from aliexpress/alibaba, hard to find for me in usual shops. datasheet: http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/ame/ame8805.pdfIt could be replaced with the following pin to pin compatible, but not tested (it took some time to dig them out) some of them are available from mouser AP7215-33YG-13 AP1115BY33 AX1113BF AX6647-33-E AX6647-33-F When ordering, check that these are SOT89 package with the following pinout: pin 1 is ground pin 2 is the input (center tab) +5V pin 3 is the output +3.3v |
|
|
|
|
Overclocking anyone?
I'm currently working on it, but it seems this thing wasn't designed to allow easy overclock.
Undervolt will be interesting in a few monthes to miinimize the power draw.
Should have the voltmod ready in a few hours, but the buck converter looks almost at its limits and there are no pin to pin replacement with higher amps in TI catalog.
30A rated buck converter, chips powered with 0.7v = 21watt and the R-box is rated 40 watt.
|
|
|
|
J4bberwock,
Can you please confirm if the REGULATED voltage rails on the blades are just 5V and 3.3V ONLY?
I have not seen any other mentioned voltages; other than 5V and 3.3V.
What I like to do is to jumper in an ATX PSU and be done with all that volt-modding.
1. remove any on-board regulation, i.e. remove any in-series components.
2. Solder in screw-in terminals after the components
Do you think that would work?
ASIC chips voltage is 1.2V at stock...60-80A ... Voltmod is rising it to 1.35 to 1.75V ... Check the schematics first...then re-evaluate your "idea(s)"...  ZiG Couldn't have said it better. You could bypass the 3.3 and 5v regulation, but you still need something for the 1.2-1.75v with high amps. |
|
|
|
|
I do agree on the fact that the devices are a little disappointing:
Power draw is higher than expected
hard limit on overclock that isn't easily removable even if there is still plenty of room for extra hashes on the board.
Extremely fast price drop in the first weeks.
But the good thing is that Gridseed isn't alone anymore and prices are going down.
For those not happy with Zeus, the G-Blades are a good alternative, and the upcoming G-Black, even if it's simply 5 G-Blades in a box, still have a fair price compared to Zeus. It can also overclock "easily" to 35MH/s, probably 37-40MH since they revised the PCB.
Return on investment in crypto is always the same story.
It will depend on which coin you mine, when you mine it, and its value in a few monthes if you hold it.
If you hold the LTC you are making at the moment, and LTC goes up to the point it was in december 2013, you will make profit.
Of course, sometimes, you can make more profit simply buying the coins and waiting, but it's really less fun.
And I like to mod/improve things, so all the new miners that should be available in Q3 will have some room reserved in my collection if I can afford to buy one.
Next one on its way home for tomorrow is a Rockminer, and after it, probably a hurricaneX3 (cooling can be greatly improved on this one and I'd like to see it at 18MH/s)
A2 miners are still too expensive for me to play with them.
|
|
|
|
I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt.
You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip.
I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read.
No need to power the blade except with the USB plug.
Thanks for the suggestion! Pics of that part and the test info would be really helpful. Unfortunately pressing the button didn't kickstart the blade into action, so I'm guessing it's a component issue.  here is the picture with what you should measure. You simply need to plug the USB, nothing else  you can use any ground point on the board. the easier one to use is this one. square pad in the connector.  |
|
|
|
The connection is explained in the datasheets and schematics in github, but you can't connect directly to raspberry. It's used to access to the stm32F103 chip via JTAG or similar protocol. Easier thing would be to solder the stm32F103 chip on an external PCB and jump wire it to the Blade. there are very few connections needed to communicate with the chips and the PW OK to the UP1509 pin 3 Use the 5 chips for release schematics to see the wiring. Beware, the 5 chips gridseed used QFP48 package for the stm32F103 and blades uses QFP64. You will have to check the pinout. |
|
|
|
My one blade died, thought it was the upper fet which I replaced, but now when I connect the power supply I hear a buzzing noise from the power connector and the power supply goes off, have checked the boards for shorts and nothing I can spot, any idea's ?
maybe the 16v 220uf Capacitor. I suppose you also replaced the ferrites/0 ohm resistors that burned with the upper gate mosfet. There are very few components between the power plug and the mosfets, so they are easy to track: Plug -> ferrites -> capacitors -> mosfets You can check the 8 chips schematics on github for some help. It's almost the same as what we have on the blade. I posted a few test points you can check in this thread. It can help finding the origin of the trouble. |
|
|
|
Wow, you encounter much more worst scenerio than me..lol im not sure if they will pay me for my shipping back to them LOL!!
but definitely i would not want to see explosion right in my face haha. i might just faint.
EDit: Anyone had any idea, if i were to refund, do i ship only the machine itself back or with the component that came together?
I'd say power supply and fury, maybe they will tell you just the fury. Don't wait for a RMA number. It will be the number you got in the mail when asking for the return. It took 3 or 4 days before I got an RMA accepted email, but they told me to send it back the first day I contacted them. And ask for a refund on your shipping cost. They will probably accept it. |
|
|
|
Got a reply, but seem like a copy and paste reply. Asking me to send the item back to some address. but it did not state must i send back the whole set. or just the machine itself. And also i did mention my concern...totally ignore it...disappointed with GAW team.
1. Delay Shipment
2. Machine down with burn smell coming out. (shock of my life)
You will have the shock of your life when a capacitor will explode in front of you when powering the pcb. I had one on my first Gridseed blade and another one in a psu that exploded litterally to my face with a big flash when loading it at 15A when it was rated 90A. Don't buy cheap psu... Regarding GAW, they are still looking for my week 1 Fury that is lost somewhere. I received in the meantime the 5 fury pack from my week 3 order. And still waiting for another 5 fury pack that is waiting to be collected from them since Tuesday. I had 3 DOA gridseed that were refunded in store credit even before they received my package.I simply gave them the tracking number and the 50$ invoice for sending them back. Even the 50$ I paid were credited to my account when I asked, so on this one, they were really nice. |
|
|
|
Same situation. not detecting any com port.. i am praying hard too.
the USB chip is powered by the 12v plug after converting from 12v to 3.3v with SPX1117-3.3 If you don't have 12v anymore, the usb won't work. hopefully, there are many test points with labels on them, so it's easy to track the defect. |
|
|
|
That might work, could be a reset if the blade gets locked up. I remember the old ASIC blades also had a similar reset feature if the unit became locked up during mining and power reset did not work. Just noticed that switch marked ASW100 - any info/idea/guess what's that for?  Hey guys, I'm hoping someone here can help me out with an issue I'm having with my blade. One of the boards isn't being recognized by my computer when I plug the USB cable in, but the other board is perfectly functional. I've tried pretty much everything I can think of to make sure it's not something I'm doing wrong, and it seems like the board is DOA. I posted this questions in another section, and Wolfey2014 pointed me over here to see if anyone has had a similar issue. He also suggested I try hitting what may be a reset button, the one in the pic above. Did anyone ever try this with their blade, and if so, did it fix anything? Thanks in advance, and if I get my blade working it seems like overclocking may be in my future! I'm not sure a reset will put it alive, but at least, it won't hurt. You can also check voltage on the AME8805 converter that powers the stm103 chip. I'll upload a pic with the test points and what you should read. No need to power the blade except with the USB plug. |
|
|
|
sources found here https://github.com/gridseed/usb-miner Compiled firmware something suspiciously small size turned hex - ie 31363 ~ 13-15Kb microcode MD5 (STM3210B-EVAL.hex) = c35920ee382295df05f996c6ab840d7a I'll check if there is an easy way to grab it from one of my blades. If so, I'll upload it. Edit: looks like we can't access it easily with USB and STM flashloader demo. Maybe read protected JTAG access is probably required |
|
|
|
I'm running a few GAW Fury miners from this: supply, 30A, $26. The stock Fury draws 22w, 0.18a at 12vc. Over-kill but I had it from some Bitcoin mining. For power connectors I used these, cut off the PCIE connector. They are long and a nice gage of wire, I bought some others that were really trashy and tossed them. I crimped lugs on them but the power supply had a nice retention piece on the screw that should work well without lugs. Fury draws at least 40W+ on an 80+ certified ATX PSU, closer to 50W on these "industrial" types that are less efficient. ~4A at 12V. 22W might be when it's idle perhaps? Yes, they draw half power when idle. The fan itself should draw up to 8w depending on the build quality. I haven't found the data sheet. |
|
|
|
Hi guys, i wonder if you are runing this mods with the stuck power supply (The 5amp brick) or you are using other psu?  I had one that melted when I was testing it to see how bad it will handle the load. Voltmodded fury with 7,5k resistor will draw between 60 and 70 watt. That's 5-6A |
|
|
|
Question: if you mod your blade and add a 33k+ resistor but keep your freq lower
in 825 or 838 range do you see a reduction or elimination of rejects/hardware errors?
You will be able to go higher clock without HW errors, but it shouldn't affect the rejects. |
|
|
|
i measured the resistor i got from the store and they gave me the wrong ones, it was 47.7k
what do you think it did tot my board. .?
OH ---- MY ---- GOD!!!! I can't believe you even touched the PCB! If you don't even know how to read the value of a resistor........  You probably toasted it! Please people, to keep from giving we professionals out here a heart attack, spend the extra money to pay a pro' to do the work needed instead of risking losing everything you've invested in, possibly for nothing! At least find a skilled volunteer! You can always ask your local TV or PC etc. repair shop to do it for you. Geesh! OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG TIMES 10000!!! Good luck! Hopefully, I do expect that the MOSFETs will have failed and nothing else. worst thing would be the up1509 since there is no pin to pin compatible replacement and I can't source the original chip. |
|
|
|
Well, i'm at a lost, i modded one of my blades with a 39k resistor, and it was working fine for a few hours, i didn;t oc it, was running it at 850, than it stopped hashing, i redid the solder joints, and worked again a bit, but it stopped hashing again, but this time no success, i tried another resistor, no hash and getting HW errors, i even reput the original resistor, ( i add managed to save it. )
and still no hashing, but only getting HW errors, i took a look at the board and nothing seem to be blown or out of place.
Any ideas .?
Have you made the cooling improvements? Anyway, I suspect a bad soldering. High quality picture would help. Did you solder with good solder paste/flux? Clean with isopropyl alcohol around the resistor if this isn't No clean solder flux Are you using fine tip iron or hot air station? Try to check the resistor value by measuring it from the alternate soldering place I showed in one of my first pictures. If it isn't stable or not 39k, you failed the soldering job. Use good quality solder paste. I've made a post with everything I used. Using 850 clock will drain the same watt than overclocking once you have replaced the resistor. Go up to 975 with all the extra cooking. |
|
|
|
hi sir,
sorry i want to ask you about this post,
because I do not understand this,
This tutorial to maximize the performance of fury?
if there is damage that will we get?
thank you for your answer
If your know what you are doing. If your know how to solder a 0603 SMD resistor, there is almost no risk with the 7.5k resistor instead of the 9.1k. The chip will run around 1.35v. That is the upper limit in Zeus datasheet. Extra cooling of the chips will help also. As usual, if your aren't sure you can fix it if you fail, don't do it. Ask someone with good soldering knowledge to do the resistor swap. |
|
|
|
I've gone up to 2.06v on gridseed. and by the time they will blow, I think they won't be profitable anymore.
Yep, gotcha. I was being a bit nannyish I suppose. ZiG's comment was very helpful though, thanks! Did you see the chip input clock speed in the datasheet, 12MHz. I think we were assuming 32MHz from the Blizzard schematics, and you were talking about using 42.2 MHz in this post. This probably needs a rethink if the blizzard schematic was a typo. The next step up from 115200 baud is 153600, which is a 33% increase, so a 16MHz crystal should do it (but will need a recompile of the windows executable, and I think won't work on linux). you are right, don't trust the schematics, the crystal is 12Mhz. So 16Mhz would be the one we need. And you can find some on... my usb erupters. I knew they will earn me some more money one day I still need to figure how and what to wire to the bpclock pins but the pins are so small and with no tracks linked I'd better go with a simple testboard design if we can get 1 or 2 sample chips |
|
|
|
|
Show Posts
