GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod

[quakefiend420]

I'm having some trouble determining where the resistor is soldered, can someone post a pic of that area with the pads highlighted?

Great job all, I knew the community would get more hashes from these!

[jamieb81]

I'm having some trouble determining where the resistor is soldered, can someone post a pic of that area with the pads highlighted?

Great job all, I knew the community would get more hashes from these!

page 12 you have a picture of where the resistor goes, it's very tiny

[zccopwrx]

For the record, pool side means nothing on a pool that operates using VARDIFF.  Your hashrate can bounce all over the place, VARDIFF rarely normalizes for long periods of time especially when your at a medium hashrate (400-500).  

Take 24 hours of samples of pool side, and the average will be closer to what your miner says its doing.

EDIT:  Forgot to also mention, pools do not pay you based on what they say your hashrate is, they pay you on the shares of X diff submitted.  Most pools have a tough time giving users a consistent/accurate hashrate readout.  I saw someone saying hashrate = moolah, where thats not really the case.

[Xer0]

600+KH/s pool side

your average rate is around 400kH, just by coarse looking

my 950Mhz miner made a graph like yours, peaked from 200 lows to 500 highs
but is has a average-line too which showed me 380kH after 8 hours

[Reggie0]

It is sad, but I have to tell You: There is a fixed ratio between hashrate and frequency, which is approx. 0.425(kH/s)/MHz.

You will never reach 600kH/s.

[TrollboxChamp]

Alright. lets evaluate... So this thread has gone to shit cause wolfey gets hard over seeing 600kh from his miner poolside and has to brag about it.

Meanwhile i had read his original post whenever it was a few days ago or so. I instantly recognized he was just exaggerating//not letting pool average out his share submission like the over-excited nerd he is

Cmon guys...

[trixster67]

hey guys, new here but total respect for all your work. Please take no offense but the pics you guys submit are so blurry that its hard to tell exactly where to make mods. With the size of these resistors/solder places are so small a mistake is very easy, so knowing or seeing a clear pic of the areas where resistor jumper goes the solder bridges and pencil bridges would be awesome and maybe the numbered area next to it like
38k resistor jumper on c38 , pencil bridge on r211/r212.  The pic of the fan mod is easy enough to get just attach the + to the +5v side of the resistor or the 1st pin on the mini-usb located with a dot. Again I am sorry to ask but have 20gs to do and can't afford to screw up. Rather be completely sure of the job before I even start. Don't have a prob doing the soldiering hell i have repaired cell phones,laps and other items with micro solder places. So anyone out there with a good camera that can take very clear pics of areas will be a hero to me besides the guys who worked all this out in first place  

[wolfey2014]

Alright. lets evaluate... So this thread has gone to shit cause wolfey gets hard over seeing 600kh from his miner poolside and has to brag about it.

Meanwhile i had read his original post whenever it was a few days ago or so. I instantly recognized he was just exaggerating//not letting pool average out his share submission like the over-excited nerd he is

Cmon guys...

Check the evidence I posted.

Wolfey2014

[trixster67]

hello again, ok so I took a few pics and I wonder if anyone who has done the mods that know the steps can maybe if these are good enough to use mark areas needed
like:  blue dots = points of contact of resistor,  red dots = points of pencil or solder bridge , another color for placement of + fan wire. Thanks


https://imageshack.com/a/cZCq/1

or

http://imageshack.com/a/img33/9646/qopv.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img841/8599/nsd3.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img829/1429/9taf.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img401/9074/v3uw.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img22/5405/iijg.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img89/2875/sovd.jpg

just really want to be sure.

[jamieb81]

I would if I could, I haven't done the mods myself.

but I think your question would be nice if it was answered and could be a very good DIY guide to put on the first page of this thread, so that we

wont have this question no more and that everyone can do it in full knowledge

[milkman510]

I'm going to try this mod using the Circuit Writer Precision Pen. Hopefully this none soldering solution works.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBVQO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Xer0]

The pic of the fan mod is easy enough to get just attach the + to the +5v side of the resistor or the 1st pin on the mini-usb located with a dot.

the fan mod is harder then the two solder bridges
had got it right only one time, that fan cable is just to fat for the micro usb pins

[Xer0]

So anyone out there with a good camera that can take very clear pics of areas will be a hero to me besides the guys who worked all this out in first place  

camera? i have something better, wait a sec

oh, sorry. i tought scanning it with 1200dpi would produce better results,
but the focus got not far enough, even with my real tube ccd scanner

[Jemison]

I'm going to try this mod using the Circuit Writer Precision Pen. Hopefully this none soldering solution works.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBVQO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good idea - I'm going to try this too.

[volder]

I'm going to try this mod using the Circuit Writer Precision Pen. Hopefully this none soldering solution works.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBVQO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been there, tried that. This didn't work for me.

[wolfey2014]

So anyone out there with a good camera that can take very clear pics of areas will be a hero to me besides the guys who worked all this out in first place  

camera? i have something better, wait a sec

oh, sorry. i tought scanning it with 1200dpi would produce better results,
but the focus got not far enough, even with my real tube ccd scanner

Thanks but it's no better than the original, quality wise.
Sandor's - on page 12 - is just as, if not better, detailed.
Also, your scan does not show the detail of 'where' to connect the 5V to USB power.
Did you connect power to the ferrite bead where I said to connect it? If not, you may run into problems.
Careful about burning things up!
My pics on page 14 are much more detailed and most importantly, show the actual modifications - already completed. How much more mental mass does one need? NONE!

Wolfey2014

[Evil-Knievel]

This message was too old and has been purged

[wolfey2014]

HASHRA.COM

GRIDSEED'S ON SALE NOW!
ONLY $150 EACH! Bare bones!
Minimum order is only 20 units.
Unlimited supply available from now on!
Shipped to anywhere in the world via DHL!
NO MIDDLE MEN!
It's SCARFIN time!, fellow miners!
Go get em!

And don't forget to try out their new mining software - Hashra CONTROLLA @ /support

Wolfey2014

P.S.
If you want your miners' modified to hash stably at 1000MHz+ and those noisy fans to run ultra quiet, let me know via PM and I'll take care of it for you!

What mods? You ask.....look here....
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=519112.260

[nemercry]

So anyone out there with a good camera that can take very clear pics of areas will be a hero to me besides the guys who worked all this out in first place  

camera? i have something better, wait a sec

oh, sorry. i tought scanning it with 1200dpi would produce better results,
but the focus got not far enough, even with my real tube ccd scanner

Thats a really good picture. Nice work .
I am looking for a way to make the "pencil" mode more time efficient. That would mean for me, that i will solder the correct resistor there that you reach 1.01V and the rest will be given by the pencil then. (lets assume you can go +- 0.01V with pencil mod, without changeing the voltage when occasionally sneeze on it.)].

OC Unit (2 bridge pin mod, 950mhz)
I measured 120,7 kohm on r211 and 0,3v
I measured  65.6 kohm between r211 and r212 1,09v
I measured  60kohm, 0,8v r212
OC+ Unit (1050mhz and 39k 1% resistor + pencil mod)
I measured 7 kohm on r211 0,03v
I measured 60.2 kohm between r211 and r212and 0,82v ( i measured it twice, i rubbed a little on the carbonglue and needed to recheck: 61kohm, 0,85v)
I assume    60kohm, 0,8v r212 (was not changed, so it should be the same)

So lets do some correlation:
65,6kohm / 1,09V  = 60,18349kohm/ v * 1.01v =  60.785kohm
60.2kohm / 0,82v =  73.41464kohm /v  * 1.01v =  74.149 kohm
(61kohm/0,85v = 71,7648kohm/v * 1.01v = 72,482 kohm)
(not sure where this offset comes from, i just assume that is just not a linear ?,(but i will try linear interpolation) )

Interpolation:
x = 1.01v; f(x)[kohm]; f0 = 60,2kohm,f1 = 65,6kohm, x0 =0,82v; x1 = 1,09v
f(x) = 64kohm
So my assumption would be, that ill get 1.01v when i can set the resistance between r211 and r212 to 64kohm.
Achievable that way:
x = (1.01 -0,8V ) = 0.21v; f(x)[kohm]; f0 = 7kohm,f1 = 120,7kohm, x0 =0,03v; x1 = 0,3v
= 82,8kohm

So in short: i need to replace the R211 with 82,8kohm and i would get a steady 1.01V.
Please confirm if correct.

Well it was wrong. Reason for that is that R211 and R212 are parallel. so it will be calculated different.
On my currently modded unit, i remeasured things. Looks like as i did a little overshoot with the carbonglue ... As it got hard, it was more conductive and my pll voltage is now 0,82V:
I know that it is not a 24h run, and i am scientifcly very sorry for that and will post one the next days. In our first run it was much more stable, when the voltage was at 0.94V.
I will reduce som of the carbon glue and will rerun a new test.


Is there actually a scientific proven reason, why 1.01V shouild be the sweatspot ? In our sample, i could not measure any differences.
Can also someone specify which size the smd resistors are currently ? I mean which type of smd resistors (to be exact: which size?) are they ?
No there is no benefit in increasing the PLL voltage.

regards,
nemercry

[wolfey2014]

So anyone out there with a good camera that can take very clear pics of areas will be a hero to me besides the guys who worked all this out in first place  

camera? i have something better, wait a sec

oh, sorry. i tought scanning it with 1200dpi would produce better results,
but the focus got not far enough, even with my real tube ccd scanner

Thats a really good picture. Nice work .
I am looking for a way to make the "pencil" mode more time efficient. That would mean for me, that i will solder the correct resistor there that you reach 1.01V and the rest will be given by the pencil then. (lets assume you can go +- 0.01V with pencil mod, without changeing the voltage when occasionally sneeze on it.)].

OC Unit (2 bridge pin mod, 950mhz)
I measured 120,7 kohm on r211 and 0,3v
I measured  65.6 kohm between r211 and r212 1,09v
I measured  60kohm, 0,8v r212
OC+ Unit (1050mhz and 39k 1% resistor + pencil mod)
I measured 7 kohm on r211 0,03v
I measured 60.2 kohm between r211 and r212and 0,82v ( i measured it twice, i rubbed a little on the carbonglue and needed to recheck: 61kohm, 0,85v)
I assume    60kohm, 0,8v r212 (was not changed, so it should be the same)

So lets do some correlation:
65,6kohm / 1,09V  = 60,18349kohm/ v * 1.01v =  60.785kohm
60.2kohm / 0,82v =  73.41464kohm /v  * 1.01v =  74.149 kohm
(61kohm/0,85v = 71,7648kohm/v * 1.01v = 72,482 kohm)
(not sure where this offset comes from, i just assume that is just not a linear ?,(but i will try linear interpolation) )

Interpolation:
x = 1.01v; f(x)[kohm]; f0 = 60,2kohm,f1 = 65,6kohm, x0 =0,82v; x1 = 1,09v
f(x) = 64kohm
So my assumption would be, that ill get 1.01v when i can set the resistance between r211 and r212 to 64kohm.
Achievable that way:
x = (1.01 -0,8V ) = 0.21v; f(x)[kohm]; f0 = 7kohm,f1 = 120,7kohm, x0 =0,03v; x1 = 0,3v
= 82,8kohm

So in short: i need to replace the R211 with 82,8kohm and i would get a steady 1.01V.
Please confirm if correct.

On my currently modded unit, i remeasured things. Looks like as i did a little overshoot with the carbonglue ... As it got hard, it was more conductive and my pll voltage is now 0,82V:
I know that it is not a 24h run, and i am scientifcly very sorry for that and will post one the next days. In our first run it was much more stable, when the voltage was at 0.94V.
I will reduce som of the carbon glue and will rerun a new test.


Is there actually a scientific proven reason, why 1.01V shouild be the sweatspot ? In our sample, i could not measure any differences.
Can also someone specify which size the smd resistors are currently ? I mean which type of smd resistors (to be exact: which size?) are they ?

regards,
nemercry

Hey. Great work there!
But the pencil mod or replacing that resistor may not be necessary.
I too am interested in the good ol' KISS rule!
I believe I may have found a way around it all together by replacing a different component.
I'm experimenting right now so I am not going to say which one it is. I don't want to risk hearing someone elses mod went pppppppppfffffsssssssszzzzzzzzzzztttttttttt!
I"m okay with bricking one of mine if it happens, which it most likely won't
Anyone that can use a good pencil iron should be able to do these mods too.
Pencil mod! Pshhhhhhhhhhhh!
Keep your fingers crossed.
Wolfey2014