GridSeed 5-chip USB miner voltage mod

[david123]

try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.

Thanks I will try this tonight.  Any reason why all the sudden BFGminer would not work?  Or does it not just work with the higher modded units?  I am currently using the hashra image on my Raspberry pi to run the bulk of the miners, so hoping to stay with BFG.  

Yeah, that was exactly my problem with the hashra image. It seems that BFGminer doesn't work with modded units, at least in some cases. I ended up with girnyau's cgminer fork, it was the only thing that worked.

[1714755771]

1714755771

[1714755771]

1714755771

[1714755771]

1714755771

[1714755771]

1714755771

[HashFire]

OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one.  At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt.  Any ideas?

Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.

I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working.  I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes.  Anywhere else I can tie into?  Maybe from the bottom if I have to?

Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!

The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.

De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.

Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.

Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!

Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made  

Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
https://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014

OK  redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed.  I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it.  So I think its in the circuit.  I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.    

So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right.  Any ideas?

I would like to get this one up and running before I try another.  I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.  


One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green?  That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
https://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg

I see micky mouse has been hard at work!   Just kidding Hashfire!   Looks like,,,nah, never mind...

Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.

You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.

Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.

Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?

You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014

I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know.  I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C.  Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too.  It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old. 

Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM?  I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future. 

I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference.  I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat.  This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making.  Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form. 

[Xer0]

we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors

can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only

[wobbzz]

OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one.  At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt.  Any ideas?

Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.

I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working.  I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes.  Anywhere else I can tie into?  Maybe from the bottom if I have to?

Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!

The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.

De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.

Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.

Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!

Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made  

Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************

*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014

OK  redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed.  I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it.  So I think its in the circuit.  I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.    

So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right.  Any ideas?

I would like to get this one up and running before I try another.  I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.  


One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green?  That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?

I see micky mouse has been hard at work!   Just kidding Hashfire!   Looks like,,,nah, never mind...

Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.

You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.

Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.

Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?

You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014

I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know.  I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C.  Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too.  It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.  

Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM?  I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.  

I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference.  I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat.  This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making.  Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.  

Hashfire, Do yourself a favor and get some soldering flux (like wolfey mentioned) and copper braid. You have WAY too much solder on there which is likely causing your heat transfer problems. The solution isn't to always turn up the heat. Solder flux will help the heat and solder flow easily to all of the components. You can actually damage your tips by using excess heat if you don't have them tinned/maintained well enough. Put some solder flux on all of those joints, then use some copper braid on top of the joints and apply heat to the copper with your iron to remove that excess solder. Once you have it cleaned up, then worry about fixing the joints. Flux and braid will help you remove bridges as well. Also, if you see excess solder building up on the tip of your iron, just wipe it off on a wet sponge and go back at it. It's important to keep your tip tinned and clean. You can find braid and flux at your local radioshack if you're in the U.S.

[HashFire]

OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one.  At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt.  Any ideas?

Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.

I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working.  I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes.  Anywhere else I can tie into?  Maybe from the bottom if I have to?

Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!

The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.

De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.

Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.

Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!

Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made  

Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
https://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014

OK  redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed.  I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it.  So I think its in the circuit.  I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.    

So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right.  Any ideas?

I would like to get this one up and running before I try another.  I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.  


One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green?  That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
https://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg

I see micky mouse has been hard at work!   Just kidding Hashfire!   Looks like,,,nah, never mind...

Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.

You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.

Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.

Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?

You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014

I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know.  I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C.  Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too.  It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.  

Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM?  I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.  

I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference.  I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat.  This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making.  Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.  

Hashfire, Do yourself a favor and get some soldering flux (like wolfey mentioned) and copper braid. You have WAY too much solder on there which is likely causing your heat transfer problems. The solution isn't to always turn up the heat. Solder flux will help the heat and solder flow easily to all of the components. You can actually damage your tips by using excess heat if you don't have them tinned/maintained well enough. Put some solder flux on all of those joints, then use some copper braid on top of the joints and apply heat to the copper with your iron to remove that excess solder. Once you have it cleaned up, then worry about fixing the joints. Flux and braid will help you remove bridges as well. Also, if you see excess solder building up on the tip of your iron, just wipe it off on a wet sponge and go back at it. It's important to keep your tip tinned and clean. You can find braid and flux at your local radioshack if you're in the U.S.

Thanks, I have some liquid soldering flux, in a pen.  Kind of like this.  http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70177953&mkwid=6kTPp5T7&pcrid=18584040739&gclid=CP28hsas4L0CFUVgMgodrC0Aew  I will take it all apart, clean with rubbing alcohol on a QTip, flux, tin and try again.  I do hae the wet sponge and braid.  Not my first time, but this one just hasn't gone well.  Thanks for the help. 

[david123]

we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors

can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only

Really? I bought 50 on ebay germany for 1 Euro..

[jamieb81]

we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors

can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only

Really? I bought 50 on ebay germany for 1 Euro..

Same I bought them on ebay, was real quick to get them

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190574128289&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1195wt_900

[simon66]

You can also get them at digi-key  (Well at least in Canada)

[HashFire]

try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.

Thanks I will try this tonight.  Any reason why all the sudden BFGminer would not work?  Or does it not just work with the higher modded units?  I am currently using the hashra image on my Raspberry pi to run the bulk of the miners, so hoping to stay with BFG.  

Yeah, that was exactly my problem with the hashra image. It seems that BFGminer doesn't work with modded units, at least in some cases. I ended up with girnyau's cgminer fork, it was the only thing that worked.

What version were you running?  1.3.3 (Current as far as I know) has support for the higher clocks.  I had some units that didnt accept shares when running higher, but at 850mhz all my units checked in and got shares.  I really like the Hashra image gui, thinking of just reverting to stock for now and running it.  How hard was it to put in the CGminer fork? 

[david123]

Yeah, 1.3.3., and sure in principle it works with higher frequencies, but poolside numbers were very low. Just put Hashra in idle mode
and compile the girnyau github (I'm sure there must be a how-to somewhere if you search). The Hashra GUI is nice, but in the end it's
the hashrate that matters, right..?

[amix]

we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors

can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only

try ebay, might take a while delivery, but im sure there was one from uk that had them 1% too. think it was 100 per strip couple of quid bout 10p each or somethign like that.

[smracer]

I bought 500 pieces  47.5K resistors on Amazon for $6 US.

[Xer0]

we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors

can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only

Really? I bought 50 on ebay germany for 1 Euro..

yeah, that ones I found some time after posting, too
but still can't find 49,9 or 50k except on reel (24 + 6€ shipping)

Same I bought them on ebay, was real quick to get them

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190574128289&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1195wt_900

but these are pin-thru, not SMD

[jamieb81]

we should start a GB for 47k and 49,9k 0402 resistors

can get them here in 10.000 piece reels only

Really? I bought 50 on ebay germany for 1 Euro..

yeah, that ones I found some time after posting, too
but still can't find 49,9 or 50k except on reel (24 + 6€ shipping)

Same I bought them on ebay, was real quick to get them

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190574128289&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1195wt_900

but these are pin-thru, not SMD

True not SMD but most of us do not use SMD's

[david123]

OK, I didn't search for them. I'm not sure if going that high is a good idea, though.. (in terms of Watt per KHs,
I even see myself reversing the 47k mod in a couple of weeks, when efficiency will be more important.
At german energy rates, at least :/)

[mintyfresh]

I'm going to give this a try tomorrow evening, but it sure looks like delicate work.  I really appreciate Wolfey's contributions to this thread and the pictures.  Looked completely doable given those great pictures until I saw how incredibly small the areas we are working with are IRL!

Wish me luck.  You know *for sure* I'm going to practice ALOT on an old motherboard before taking my iron to one of my 'seeds.

[jamieb81]

I'm going to give this a try tomorrow evening, but it sure looks like delicate work.  I really appreciate Wolfey's contributions to this thread and the pictures.  Looked completely doable given those great pictures until I saw how incredibly small the areas we are working with are IRL!

Wish me luck.  You know *for sure* I'm going to practice ALOT on an old motherboard before taking my iron to one of my 'seeds.

I was really afraid too when I saw IRL how small it was. but I tool my courage and did it just with a regular solder iron.

I reckon it was not easy for me and took me some time but it worked out great

[powersup]

Hi Guys,

Modded my first unit using 47K axial resistor.  Running for 24hrs now @1150 with solid 500KH and no HW errors 

A quick question - I have a heap of 47K resistors with the a sixth band, which is red.  are these ok to use for the mod?

[wolfey2014]

Hi Guys,

Modded my first unit using 47K axial resistor.  Running for 24hrs now @1150 with solid 500KH and no HW errors  

A quick question - I have a heap of 47K resistors with the a sixth band, which is red.  are these ok to use for the mod?

Yes, red 6th band is temp coefficient of 50ppm
it will be fine to use for the mod...
Go for it..

[simon66]

Is anyone having issues with bfgminer where if the internet connection goes down (Like an IP change) bfgminer will not send/accept shares. I had this issue happen twice last week. bfgminer was only able to send/accept share after 3 hours (to my luck, I was sleeping :/ Lucky me  )

Also, anyone knows of a good place to buy these TP-LINK WR703? All I can find is china but I do need these next week.

Thanks!