notlist3d
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March 20, 2015, 01:29:32 AM |
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About a week ago I upgraded firmware (yes it's old firmware I just never did it). But after a week no problems with the firmware.
One is a little more babysitting with the X's but that was same before. Other works all days if not weeks no problems.
What is the firmware date that you are using now? I went from stock batch 1 firmware to the "SD-C1-20141217.tar" firmware. So it's retaliative old but I just never got around to doing it. But it's working for me just as good as stock did, so no regrets on updating. Anything seem improved that would warrant violating if it ain't broke don't fix it? With C1 i was not worried since it has micro SD. It's easy to fix if bad flash. But nothing noticeable fixed. I hoped the one that get's X's and stuff would improve but its the same. One runs perfect for weeks other takes a little time to get up right.
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soy
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March 20, 2015, 03:48:20 AM |
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About a week ago I upgraded firmware (yes it's old firmware I just never did it). But after a week no problems with the firmware.
One is a little more babysitting with the X's but that was same before. Other works all days if not weeks no problems.
What is the firmware date that you are using now? I went from stock batch 1 firmware to the "SD-C1-20141217.tar" firmware. So it's retaliative old but I just never got around to doing it. But it's working for me just as good as stock did, so no regrets on updating. Anything seem improved that would warrant violating if it ain't broke don't fix it? With C1 i was not worried since it has micro SD. It's easy to fix if bad flash. But nothing noticeable fixed. I hoped the one that get's X's and stuff would improve but its the same. One runs perfect for weeks other takes a little time to get up right. And you've tried swapping cooling systems? Just throwing it out there but I know the disappointment of an iffy miner. The S3 I got from Florida has not only two sub par hashing boards but last change I tried was the controller board with a good s3 and now that runs 440 rather than its usual 441. Not a big deal, haven't even put it back, it's just that the miner seemed to be packed with lower quality stuff. Like one of the inside heatsinks had a stripped screw to start with and the S3 was suppose to be new (but arrived in an opened box from Pines Computer in Florida). Like some farm gathered iffy components. And the first S3 which was good had the factory double strip of heatsink compound on each inside heatsink while the open box 'new' S3 had inside heatsinks fully slathered with heatsink compound.
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notlist3d
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March 20, 2015, 04:01:06 AM |
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About a week ago I upgraded firmware (yes it's old firmware I just never did it). But after a week no problems with the firmware.
One is a little more babysitting with the X's but that was same before. Other works all days if not weeks no problems.
What is the firmware date that you are using now? I went from stock batch 1 firmware to the "SD-C1-20141217.tar" firmware. So it's retaliative old but I just never got around to doing it. But it's working for me just as good as stock did, so no regrets on updating. Anything seem improved that would warrant violating if it ain't broke don't fix it? With C1 i was not worried since it has micro SD. It's easy to fix if bad flash. But nothing noticeable fixed. I hoped the one that get's X's and stuff would improve but its the same. One runs perfect for weeks other takes a little time to get up right. And you've tried swapping cooling systems? Just throwing it out there but I know the disappointment of an iffy miner. The S3 I got from Florida has not only two sub par hashing boards but last change I tried was the controller board with a good s3 and now that runs 440 rather than its usual 441. Not a big deal, haven't even put it back, it's just that the miner seemed to be packed with lower quality stuff. Like one of the inside heatsinks had a stripped screw to start with and the S3 was suppose to be new (but arrived in an opened box from Pines Computer in Florida). Like some farm gathered iffy components. And the first S3 which was good had the factory double strip of heatsink compound on each inside heatsink while the open box 'new' S3 had inside heatsinks fully slathered with heatsink compound. It is hard to describe you can fix it for a bit by turning it on/off for a bit. You will see others mentioning this before. It's possible heatsink compound might fix it, but I have not went there. I just hate to tear it apart. It's not the cooling system at this point I would describe my cooling as decently modified. First I use a molex to 3 pin power adapter. Very good quality no issues with it. Then a replacement pump that is a tad faster then the syscoolings one, and has quite a bit more coolant reservoir. Then I added fan's to the back side of the radiator cooling it even more. It is pretty rock solid at this point.
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thedreamer
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March 20, 2015, 07:19:26 PM |
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Is it possible to overclock the C1?
Not Worth it. You'll burn more watts that way. Heck even stock speeds is not worth running IMO.
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Go Big or Go Home.
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kenshirothefist
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March 20, 2015, 07:43:12 PM |
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How about undeclocking C1 miner? Is it possible to underclock/undevolt it to get better efficiency? Has anybody tried it? What kind of hash rate is it possible to get if you undeclock/undevolt to max 800W power consumption?
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notlist3d
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March 20, 2015, 07:50:50 PM |
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How about undeclocking C1 miner? Is it possible to underclock/undevolt it to get better efficiency? Has anybody tried it? What kind of hash rate is it possible to get if you undeclock/undevolt to max 800W power consumption?
It is possible. A few pages back there is someone who did underclock it.
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thedreamer
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March 20, 2015, 07:55:08 PM |
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How about undeclocking C1 miner? Is it possible to underclock/undevolt it to get better efficiency? Has anybody tried it? What kind of hash rate is it possible to get if you undeclock/undevolt to max 800W power consumption?
Yeah. I've been doing some underclocking with them. stock 074v - 1020 / 800w - 0.78eff 200 07v - 820 / 600w - 0.73eff 175 07v - 710 / 500w - 0.70eff You can go lower with the voltage, but when I did, I started getting 'x' and missing 'o'-s. ![Shocked](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/shocked.gif) Overall, if these would not be so quiet, I'd consider them a failure product.
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Go Big or Go Home.
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thedreamer
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March 20, 2015, 07:58:09 PM |
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Also, anyone notice how jumpy the GH/s is on these?? I mean even at stock speeds, it goes from 700-1200GH/s constantly. the average takes like 24 hours to even be reliable. same across multiple units and different power supplies. Weird.
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Go Big or Go Home.
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soy
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March 20, 2015, 08:36:36 PM Last edit: March 20, 2015, 10:01:27 PM by soy |
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About a week ago I upgraded firmware (yes it's old firmware I just never did it). But after a week no problems with the firmware.
One is a little more babysitting with the X's but that was same before. Other works all days if not weeks no problems.
What is the firmware date that you are using now? I went from stock batch 1 firmware to the "SD-C1-20141217.tar" firmware. So it's retaliative old but I just never got around to doing it. But it's working for me just as good as stock did, so no regrets on updating. Anything seem improved that would warrant violating if it ain't broke don't fix it? With C1 i was not worried since it has micro SD. It's easy to fix if bad flash. But nothing noticeable fixed. I hoped the one that get's X's and stuff would improve but its the same. One runs perfect for weeks other takes a little time to get up right. And you've tried swapping cooling systems? Just throwing it out there but I know the disappointment of an iffy miner. The S3 I got from Florida has not only two sub par hashing boards but last change I tried was the controller board with a good s3 and now that runs 440 rather than its usual 441. Not a big deal, haven't even put it back, it's just that the miner seemed to be packed with lower quality stuff. Like one of the inside heatsinks had a stripped screw to start with and the S3 was suppose to be new (but arrived in an opened box from Pines Computer in Florida). Like some farm gathered iffy components. And the first S3 which was good had the factory double strip of heatsink compound on each inside heatsink while the open box 'new' S3 had inside heatsinks fully slathered with heatsink compound. It is hard to describe you can fix it for a bit by turning it on/off for a bit. You will see others mentioning this before. It's possible heatsink compound might fix it, but I have not went there. I just hate to tear it apart. It's not the cooling system at this point I would describe my cooling as decently modified. First I use a molex to 3 pin power adapter. Very good quality no issues with it. Then a replacement pump that is a tad faster then the syscoolings one, and has quite a bit more coolant reservoir. Then I added fan's to the back side of the radiator cooling it even more. It is pretty rock solid at this point. How many watt power supply are you using? For my second C1, I have the pump and radiator fans going to a separate 12vdc supply divorced from the miner's supplies. You could easily say the heck with the 3 pin connector, cut down a two wire extension cord, splice pump and fans reds to the extension cord lead with the raised ribs and the blacks to the smooth lead then put crimp terminals on the other end and attach to an inexpensive 12 v supply. When the C1 gets interrupted water cooling it gets hot, current and wattage go way up. Separate supply at least you're sure. And when you use the inexpensive extension cords from Walmart, e.g. 6', 16 gauge, about a buck forty each, cut off both ends, pick white over brown extension cord so you can easily mark the ribbed side ends with red magic marker and the smooth lead ends with black. Hate connectors with a single color for both pos and neg.
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opentoe
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Personal text my ass....
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March 20, 2015, 10:22:38 PM |
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Is it possible to overclock the C1?
Not Worth it. You'll burn more watts that way. Heck even stock speeds is not worth running IMO. If you get free electric then any speed is worth it. ![Smiley](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
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thedreamer
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March 20, 2015, 11:04:29 PM |
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Is it possible to overclock the C1?
Not Worth it. You'll burn more watts that way. Heck even stock speeds is not worth running IMO. If you get free electric then any speed is worth it. ![Smiley](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Yup. that's why I have them. They'll be sitting pretty and quietly in a nice big server case soon. ![Wink](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/wink.gif) For now they are my 'lottery' in the home office. radiator sitting on the outside ledge of the window (secured), temps are between 29-31C. ![Cheesy](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)
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Go Big or Go Home.
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opentoe
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March 20, 2015, 11:08:27 PM |
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You found a block with one of those or another miner?
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thedreamer
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March 20, 2015, 11:17:16 PM |
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You found a block with one of those or another miner?
yeah.. I found 2 each since last week.............. Nah, just kidding. I haven't found anything with anything, or anything... ![Grin](https://bitcointalk.org/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
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Go Big or Go Home.
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thedreamer
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March 21, 2015, 03:22:32 AM |
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Odd underclocking success here. Thought I'd post it :
200Mhz Freq, 071v, 840Gh/s average @ 600watts exactly. (GH jumps from 760 - 1120 though.)
Best ratio yet.
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Go Big or Go Home.
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potatorage
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March 21, 2015, 06:12:17 AM |
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I had a pump die on me today. Can two loops be run off of one pump? WHat would be a suitable replacement?
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notlist3d
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March 21, 2015, 06:48:04 AM |
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I had a pump die on me today. Can two loops be run off of one pump? WHat would be a suitable replacement?
I would guess it could... but question is if you want to. I personally don't want mine getting that hot, but I'm sure some will say how it can. (I seem to remember one doing it but cannot remember their ambient). As far as replacement pump what I used is http://www.ebay.com/itm/381066536924It's been running for months on both I bought and if you are in US they ship within US so quicker shipiing.
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soy
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March 21, 2015, 02:55:29 PM |
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I had a pump die on me today. Can two loops be run off of one pump? WHat would be a suitable replacement?
Yes but I made sure I didn't use any restrictive couplings like the air hose quick disconnects. If all your ports and interconnections have the cross sectional area of the barbs then I don't see why not. When my second pump arrived I simply put it in series with the two series'd C1's rather than splitting the systems. Now with each pump after a radiator, each pumping into a C1, I had the pumps mounted on the wall near and above the window mounted radiators. Interestingly, one can add distilled water while the pumps are on but having made the mistake of one pump a bit lower than the other, with pumps off when the plug is removed from the lower, water flows out. Actually I don't have two radiators in the system but rather a radiator and a condenser because of the delay in the radiator arriving from China. I got a tracking message the radiator arrived this morning at my post office, the order date March 3rd. Not sure how to use the radiator that arrived today. Can't put it in series in any balanced way so maybe two PVC manifolds with the two radiators and the condenser between the manifolds. But yes, if no restrictions in the tubing.
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tbolt
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March 21, 2015, 03:58:28 PM |
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Odd underclocking success here. Thought I'd post it :
200Mhz Freq, 071v, 840Gh/s average @ 600watts exactly. (GH jumps from 760 - 1120 though.)
Best ratio yet.
Thanks for posting this.
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rkinnin
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March 21, 2015, 07:16:34 PM |
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I need to swap out the power supply on my c1. Right now I have a tx850m corsair on it. I have a spare tx750m...can I use this power supply with the c1?
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notlist3d
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March 21, 2015, 07:40:46 PM |
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I need to swap out the power supply on my c1. Right now I have a tx850m corsair on it. I have a spare tx750m...can I use this power supply with the c1?
Only if you under clock it. At standard freq with cooling gear no 750 is not enough watts.
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