ANTMINER S7 is available at bitmaintech.com with 4.86TH/s, 0.25J/GH

[toptek]

are the S7 4,86THs version sold out at the moment?
coming a new batch in the future?
if a other hardware on the world, thas is also so good as the S7?

Best Regards
Willi

They are all sold out except for the Batch 6, 4.05TH version. The interesting question will be, are we going to see any more 4.86TH units or are all future S7 going to 4.05TH?


Rich

why would they, if they can make all most as much at a lower speed and get a way with it.


Sorry, i feel that way but i feel they turned there back on us, all but the very rich, etc.
I'm not it to make a living but at least make back what i put into it then a little more for the next upgrades but jacking up the price.


cya

[UfoRia]

impressive set up you have but to be safe i would have use 8.2 wire over 10.2 who knows later on you may want to put in  40 amp or 50 amp breakers then you will have to change out the wire . Polly could have used less wire and saved some that way with two 50 amps but that's me I'm working on upgrading a few Script miners and holding off on the replacing my S5 to something better and buy a few more used S5, there is some nice deals on ebay atm,till next year , i refuse to pay bitmiains prices i fell it's,wrong, in the way there being greedy.

I know I lived in Texas a few years, 10 years ago and most of my family that is still a live , lives there now, all but one, he lives in GEO .They live Near fort worth Texas or in .I forget what city it may even be Fort worth, i used to live there .

On my sub-panel I only had enough for 100 amps, so I went that direction. I have 250 amp service, so I was limited by that and my friend having a large roll of 10/2 that was free.

The runs are only twenty feet from the sub to the L630R's, so it won't be a huge issue to upgrade if it arises.


Ufo

[toptek]

impressive set up you have but to be safe i would have use 8.2 wire over 10.2 who knows later on you may want to put in  40 amp or 50 amp breakers then you will have to change out the wire . Polly could have used less wire and saved some that way with two 50 amps but that's me I'm working on upgrading a few Script miners and holding off on the replacing my S5 to something better and buy a few more used S5, there is some nice deals on ebay atm,till next year , i refuse to pay bitmiains prices i fell it's,wrong, in the way there being greedy.

I know I lived in Texas a few years, 10 years ago and most of my family that is still a live , lives there now, all but one, he lives in GEO .They live Near fort worth Texas or in .I forget what city it may even be Fort worth, i used to live there .

On my sub-panel I only had enough for 100 amps, so I went that direction. I have 250 amp service, so I was limited by that and my friend having a large roll of 10/2 that was free.

The runs are only twenty feet from the sub to the L630R's, so it won't be a huge issue to upgrade if it arises.


Ufo

True, free is good   .I would to,  my bad for not thinking.

BTW, dmwardjr, inspired me the most , i learned a lot one day from him for a few hours . he was very cool about explaining a lot of stuff, i had no clue about, now, it's different, i know a lot. just form talking to him a year ago and knowing what to look for.



Cya

[toptek]

^you can get away with a bit more than 80% load, but i would absolutely not exceed 90%. for the risks it creates, you may as well just install another breaker+wire run, instead of risking a failure in your wiring.

Yes, I agree.  Better safe than sorry!  I only wanted to share my experience with running at 100% myself on PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) insulated wiring.  This is the type of wiring generally used inside a home.  It's the type of wiring I purchased for my setup.   Mine is not inside of walls or conduit.  

PVC wire heat resistance [On a scale from 1 to 5] is 2.  Which means the insulation of the wire would be considered a little below average [or fair] in its ability to withstand heat.  Especially, over long periods of time inside of a non-ventilated space like walls and/or conduit.  Hence, the reason why I've said I would not push this wire over 80% if it's inside of walls or conduit.  The normal temperature rating for PVC wiring can range from 60C, 75C, 90C.  Usually, the temperature rating is noted on the packaging but not always.  My 10 AWG (10/2) wiring is rated at 90C (194F).  Even 60C is 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

When I ran my four (4) 30A circuits on 10/2 PVC wiring part of the summer at 95 to 100 percent, the wire and outlets worked well.  They did not get too hot to the touch at all.  I could keep my hand on them without having to take my hand off.  They felt warm but not hot.  Remind you, my wiring for my rigs is not within walls.  I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing what I did if your wiring is within walls or conduit.  I have since added another 30A circuit to allow me to run my circuits at 80 percent instead of 95 to 100 percent.

The only reason I've mentioned this is to say what the wire is capable of handling if not inside walls and/or conduit.  Am I telling people to do this?  No!  I'm only informing people of what can actually be done with the wire.  I personally believe it would be beneficial to stay on the side of caution by adding an additional circuit(s) to keep them all at 80 percent or lower.  Especially, if your circuits are inside of walls and/or conduit.  I personally, will run my 30A circuits at 85% when I get all of my S7's.  Remind you, my circuits are NOT inside walls and/or conduit.

So, don't think I'm advocating for everyone to run their circuits at 100 percent.  I would say you could if your circuits were not inside of walls and/or conduit but I would only do it for a short time as I did myself.  I put off adding another circuit for approximately 40 to 45 days.  My wiring and outlets performed well and did not get to hot at 95 to 100 percent load until I added another circuit.  That's all I'm saying...

EDIT:  The main reason I would NOT recommend running at 95% or higher on this wiring for a long period of time is because air is a poor insulator.  Without shielding the strands or even solid wire, an electrical potential can over-stress these air voids between the strands or between multiple conductor(s) and the outer shield of those conductors.  This air breaks down or ionizes, going into what's called, corona (partial discharges). This will form ozone and can chemically deteriorate cable insulation over time. If you bought high dollar wiring with semi-conductive strand shielding, It can eliminate this potential by “shorting out” the air.  

I mention this a lot in my training when the subject comes up about using alligator meter clips with a bed of nails that penetrates the insulation to have contact with the conductors for testing purposes.  I explain when the insulation is damaged, an ionization process can occur from exposure to more air [Especially damp air] to emphasize the importance of cutting off the portion of wire they damaged with their meter clips and re-splicing to avoid having potential problems with that circuit in the near future.  Those meter clips with a bed of nails are responsible for many of the opens they have in the local telephone loop.  Most opens begin at a low resistance value and they increase in resistance as the copper wire gets smaller in diameter over time due to this ionization and electrolysis.

http://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clip-Nail-Angled-Medium/dp/B00M1V7E5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447014797&sr=8-1&keywords=bed+of+nails+clip



So, again, I'm NOT advocating individuals load their circuits at 85% or higher OVER LONG PERIODS OF TIME!  I see I need to be more specific when I elaborate on a subject because it can be taken the wrong way at times.  If you are in your initial setup and or install and your wiring is NOT inside walls and/or conduit, one could load their circuits greater than 80 percent without much fear if it's for a short period of time.  The longer your circuits have a load over 80%, the life of the insulation for the circuits can deteriorate over time.  This deterioration can result in the insulation being more susceptible to higher temperatures and thereby reduce its ability to withstand heat over time.

So, if you would like to mine with more rigs but don't have all of your circuits installed yet, you could do so for a short period of time [under certain conditions] until you have the other circuits installed for those rigs to get everything within a 75% to 80% limit.  That's all I'm implying.  I've done this myself while putting my setup together.  Remind you:  MY WIRING IS NOT WITHIN WALLS AND/OR CONDUIT!  My setup is completed now and enough circuits are installed for the amount of rigs I have at present to keep me at 85% or less.  I feel 85% is plenty safe for my install because my install does not have wiring within walls and/or conduit.

When I add more power to my setup for more rigs in the next month or so, I will add enough circuits to keep them around 80% or less.  I'm presently running my circuits at 67%.  Each 15A breaker on my 30A metered PDU's say they are running at 10 amps [Approximately 66/67 percent].  When I get more S7's (batch 6) at 1042 watts each, I will run them at 5 x S7's per 30A PDU.  This will be  72 percent of its maximum.  I would probably be fine with 6 x S7's (batch 6) at 86.6 percent of it's maximum for a short period when it gets close to time for the move to a new location for my setup.

When I do move my setup to another location, I will have every circuit at 80% or less.

Hey man ...


AT my rate im going to have to have another breaker and line put in or get a new PDU for a 40 amp or 50 amp line and go that way,I'm good for maybe 3 more 30 amp breakers or two 50 amps or two 40 and one 50 amp but id be pushing it with two 40s and one 50s . then i would have to up my service for sure .

i hope you do get those what was it 110 th on line in your home?. i don't see why you can't .


cya

[UfoRia]

Yes, I agree.  Better safe than sorry!  I only wanted to share my experience with running at 100% myself on PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) insulated wiring.  This is the type of wiring generally used inside a home.  It's the type of wiring I purchased for my setup.   Mine is not inside of walls or conduit.  

PVC wire heat resistance [On a scale from 1 to 5] is 2.  Which means the insulation of the wire would be considered a little below average [or fair] in its ability to withstand heat.  Especially, over long periods of time inside of a non-ventilated space like walls and/or conduit.  Hence, the reason why I've said I would not push this wire over 80% if it's inside of walls or conduit.  The normal temperature rating for PVC wiring can range from 60C, 75C, 90C.  Usually, the temperature rating is noted on the packaging but not always.  My 10 AWG (10/2) wiring is rated at 90C (194F).  Even 60C is 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

When I ran my four (4) 30A circuits on 10/2 PVC wiring part of the summer at 95 to 100 percent, the wire and outlets worked well.  They did not get too hot to the touch at all.  I could keep my hand on them without having to take my hand off.  They felt warm but not hot.  Remind you, my wiring for my rigs is not within walls.  I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing what I did if your wiring is within walls or conduit.  I have since added another 30A circuit to allow me to run my circuits at 80 percent instead of 95 to 100 percent.

The only reason I've mentioned this is to say what the wire is capable of handling if not inside walls and/or conduit.  Am I telling people to do this?  No!  I'm only informing people of what can actually be done with the wire.  I personally believe it would be beneficial to stay on the side of caution by adding an additional circuit(s) to keep them all at 80 percent or lower.  Especially, if your circuits are inside of walls and/or conduit.  I personally, will run my 30A circuits at 85% when I get all of my S7's.  Remind you, my circuits are NOT inside walls and/or conduit.

So, don't think I'm advocating for everyone to run their circuits at 100 percent.  I would say you could if your circuits were not inside of walls and/or conduit but I would only do it for a short time as I did myself.  I put off adding another circuit for approximately 40 to 45 days.  My wiring and outlets performed well and did not get to hot at 95 to 100 percent load until I added another circuit.  That's all I'm saying...

EDIT:  The main reason I would NOT recommend running at 95% or higher on this wiring for a long period of time is because air is a poor insulator.  Without shielding the strands or even solid wire, an electrical potential can over-stress these air voids between the strands or between multiple conductor(s) and the outer shield of those conductors.  This air breaks down or ionizes, going into what's called, corona (partial discharges). This will form ozone and can chemically deteriorate cable insulation over time. If you bought high dollar wiring with semi-conductive strand shielding, It can eliminate this potential by “shorting out” the air.  

I mention this a lot in my training when the subject comes up about using alligator meter clips with a bed of nails that penetrates the insulation to have contact with the conductors for testing purposes.  I explain when the insulation is damaged, an ionization process can occur from exposure to more air [Especially damp air] to emphasize the importance of cutting off the portion of wire they damaged with their meter clips and re-splicing to avoid having potential problems with that circuit in the near future.  Those meter clips with a bed of nails are responsible for many of the opens they have in the local telephone loop.  Most opens begin at a low resistance value and they increase in resistance as the copper wire gets smaller in diameter over time due to this ionization and electrolysis.

http://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clip-Nail-Angled-Medium/dp/B00M1V7E5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447014797&sr=8-1&keywords=bed+of+nails+clip



So, again, I'm NOT advocating individuals load their circuits at 85% or higher OVER LONG PERIODS OF TIME!  I see I need to be more specific when I elaborate on a subject because it can be taken the wrong way at times.  If you are in your initial setup and or install and your wiring is NOT inside walls and/or conduit, one could load their circuits greater than 80 percent without much fear if it's for a short period of time.  The longer your circuits have a load over 80%, the life of the insulation for the circuits can deteriorate over time.  This deterioration can result in the insulation being more susceptible to higher temperatures and thereby reduce its ability to withstand heat over time.

So, if you would like to mine with more rigs but don't have all of your circuits installed yet, you could do so for a short period of time [under certain conditions] until you have the other circuits installed for those rigs to get everything within a 75% to 80% limit.  That's all I'm implying.  I've done this myself while putting my setup together.  Remind you:  MY WIRING IS NOT WITHIN WALLS AND/OR CONDUIT!  My setup is completed now and enough circuits are installed for the amount of rigs I have at present to keep me at 85% or less.  I feel 85% is plenty safe for my install because my install does not have wiring within walls and/or conduit.

When I add more power to my setup for more rigs in the next month or so, I will add enough circuits to keep them around 80% or less.  I'm presently running my circuits at 67%.  Each 15A breaker on my 30A metered PDU's say they are running at 10 amps [Approximately 66/67 percent].  When I get more S7's (batch 6) at 1042 watts each, I will run them at 5 x S7's per 30A PDU.  This will be  72 percent of its maximum.  I would probably be fine with 6 x S7's (batch 6) at 86.6 percent of it's maximum for a short period when it gets close to time for the move to a new location for my setup.

When I do move my setup to another location, I will have every circuit at 80% or less.

I have been in telephony for twenty years, but more on the WDM than TDM. The last ten years I have been mainly doing SIP/RTP for large corporations. Always fun to bump into a telephony person, although I am an enterprise network/security/voip architecture manager now and not doing much contract work.


Ufo

[-droid-]

So if I have a s7 running off a bedroom power outlet am I capping the circuit? I don't think the bedroom has its own circuit on the breaker box

[thedreamer]

So if I have a s7 running off a bedroom power outlet am I capping the circuit? I don't think the bedroom has its own circuit on the breaker box

Usually a bedroom has it's own circuit. As long as you are not drawing more than 1500watts total in the room, you should be fine.

[-droid-]

So if I have a s7 running off a bedroom power outlet am I capping the circuit? I don't think the bedroom has its own circuit on the breaker box

Usually a bedroom has it's own circuit. As long as you are not drawing more than 1500watts total in the room, you should be fine.

Yeah all my lights are LED, only other thing is power ine Ethernet adapter

[guitarplinker]

So if I have a s7 running off a bedroom power outlet am I capping the circuit? I don't think the bedroom has its own circuit on the breaker box

Usually a bedroom has it's own circuit. As long as you are not drawing more than 1500watts total in the room, you should be fine.

Yeah all my lights are LED, only other thing is power ine Ethernet adapter

PoE can use only ~ 40W max IIRC, so you should still be well below the max of a 15A 120V circuit ( 1800W ).

[dmwardjr]

Hey man ...

AT my rate im going to have to have another breaker and line put in or get a new PDU for a 40 amp or 50 amp line and go that way,I'm good for maybe 3 more 30 amp breakers or two 50 amps or two 40 and one 50 amp but id be pushing it with two 40s and one 50s . then i would have to up my service for sure .

i hope you do get those what was it 110 th on line in your home?. i don't see why you can't .

cya

Go for it with the additional PDU.  Do what you gotta do, within reason.

I hope to get it going soon as well.  First thing to get done will be adding more amps to my existing service.  All in time...

[dmwardjr]

I have been in telephony for twenty years, but more on the WDM than TDM. The last ten years I have been mainly doing SIP/RTP for large corporations. Always fun to bump into a telephony person, although I am an enterprise network/security/voip architecture manager now and not doing much contract work.

Ufo

I never got into fiber a whole lot.  I know just enough to get me in trouble.  LOL  My father knew a hell of a lot more about fiber than I did.  He's a retired Transmission Engineer from Bell South [Now AT&T].  I used to work for bell south but left there in 1994 to get into art (doing portraits of people in oil).  I got back into telephony in 1997 as a contractor to train telephone technicians.  

It sounds like most of your work has been at both ends instead of the middle.  Most of my knowledge is about the middle (providing maintenance for what connects both ends together for networking, voice, etc...).  Yes, I know a bit about the Central Office (CO) equipment.  I know a bit about carrier equipment [integrated (single ended) and universal (double ended)].  I know a little bit about switchs [5E, DMS, Stromberg, etc...].  

Most of my time has been involved with transmission trouble shooting on copper.  I teach basic electricity and how it applies to the local telephone loop; outside plant engineering design for POTS, ADSL, bonded ADSL, T1 lines with repeaters, HDSL with doublers, etc.  I teach noise mitigation, power influence (longitudinal current); how it radiates into the facility and can convert into noise (metallic current).  Longitudinal Balance testing.

I also teach Fault locating on copper wire with multi meters like the Dynatel 965-AMS and JDSU HST-3000.  I let them know what buttons to press to do what they need to do to identify the trouble and also what to do with the meter to locate the trouble [What should they expect to see electrically when they press a button; WHY should they expect to see that electrically and what is the meter doing on the inside to give them the electrical measurement.  Meaning, HOW does their meter measure voltage, current, resistance, capacitance for opens test, impedance, decibels, frequencies (that flow longitudinally and metallically), how a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometer) locates troubles when measuring time and impedance].  

I teach locating faults on the cable shield as well and not just individual conductors.  How the meter uses a modified version of the wheat stone bridge that's called an Anderson Bridge to locate high resistive shorts, grounds and crosses.  There are many things I teach in different classes ranging from 4-Days to 10-Days.

I owe my father a lot of the credit for the knowledge I have.  I wish I had listened to him a lot sooner in life than what I did.  I did learn quite a bit in the Marine Corp about meters but not specific to telephony meters.  I didn't gain that knowledge until I began working for Bell South.

Good to see another telephony guy on here as well.

Take care, Sir and may the blocks be with you.

David

[dmwardjr]

So if I have a s7 running off a bedroom power outlet am I capping the circuit? I don't think the bedroom has its own circuit on the breaker box

Usually a bedroom has it's own circuit. As long as you are not drawing more than 1500watts total in the room, you should be fine.

Yeah all my lights are LED, only other thing is power ine Ethernet adapter

PoE can use only ~ 40W max IIRC, so you should still be well below the max of a 15A 120V circuit ( 1800W ).

Yes, you should be fine.  The only thing I would keep in mind for the future is if BITMAIN ever comes out with a rig or combination of rigs close to 1800 watts in the future.  Most people have 20 amp circuit breakers in their home on 12 AWG wiring.  However, electricians often install receptacles (outlets) rated at 15 amps instead of 20 amps in the walls of our home.  So, if you ever get a rig or a combination of rigs in the future close to 1800 watts, you may want to consider changing out the outlet from 15 amps to 20 amps on a 20 amps circuit to avoid over heating the outlet itself.

We often believe it's okay to take a 20 amp circuit breaker on 12 AWG wiring to 75% (1800 watts) while not realizing we are maxing out the outlet itself that is normally rated at 15 amps (1800 watts).  If we have a circuit with 12 AWG wire on a 20 amp breaker, we should not assume the outlets are also rated at 20 amps as well.  Such a mistake has the potential to create an electrical fire in the wall at the outlet itself instead of the wiring.  You will first notice this by seeing discoloration of the outlet.  For example: going from white to a beige color.  You will also notice the cord and the outlet are extremely hot to the touch.

[bitdevill95]

Anyone experience a issue where changing the pool information is not saving?

[TracerX]

Anyone experience a issue where changing the pool information is not saving?

Have you logged into that device with SSH at any point?  IIRC making changes to the config manually (via the shell) could make the web interface not save changes.  Let us know if that's something you've done.

[dmwardjr]

Anyone experience a issue where changing the pool information is not saving?

Have you logged into that device with SSH at any point?  IIRC making changes to the config manually (via the shell) could make the web interface not save changes.  Let us know if that's something you've done.

Also, I've found with previous units that simply pressing "return" (enter) on your keyboard does not "save" the pool settings.  With previous units, I actually had to click "save & apply" in the bottom right hand corner of the miner configuration.  This may have changed with the S7.  I'm not certain of that.

[wolfen]

Anyone experience a issue where changing the pool information is not saving?

Have you logged into that device with SSH at any point?  IIRC making changes to the config manually (via the shell) could make the web interface not save changes.  Let us know if that's something you've done.

Also, I've found with previous units that simply pressing "return" (enter) on your keyboard does not "save" the pool settings.  With previous units, I actually had to click "save & apply" in the bottom right hand corner of the miner configuration.  This may have changed with the S7.  I'm not certain of that.

For me when you click save and apply it updates the text in the conf file and restarts cgminer.
If I just want to restart cgminer I click save and apply without changing any text.
Sometimes when there is a problem that is all it needs, not a soft reboot.

[Biodom]

Re second batch 2 (575 miner): definitely best at 575.

A little Mac related quirk:

if you use default Safari to download the 575.tar.gz, it automatically ungzips it and you have a 575.tar in downloads and 575.tar.gz in trash.
If you try to ugrade with just .tar file, upgrade fails (it says that you got a short file).
If you download with Chrome, everything is fine (you get 575.tar.gz file in downloads) and upgrade proceeds uneventfully.

As a result of upgrade I got much less errors, lower fan speed and slightly lower to same temp of the boards at 575.

[carlosmnk]

Hi, can be normal the S7's fans are running at 2.400 rpm and the internal temperature is at 70ºC? I don't know why they are not running faster. I tryed to put them in auto, 80%, 90% and 100%, but no changes... Someone have same issue?

[Tupsu]

Hi, can be normal the S7's fans are running at 2.400 rpm and the internal temperature is at 70ºC? I don't know why they are not running faster. I tryed to put them in auto, 80%, 90% and 100%, but no changes... Someone have same issue?

Use 50%

or 40%  3,240 rpm

[dogie]

Hi, can be normal the S7's fans are running at 2.400 rpm and the internal temperature is at 70ºC? I don't know why they are not running faster. I tryed to put them in auto, 80%, 90% and 100%, but no changes... Someone have same issue?

Can you post a screenshot of the status page and configuration page please?

Hi, can be normal the S7's fans are running at 2.400 rpm and the internal temperature is at 70ºC? I don't know why they are not running faster. I tryed to put them in auto, 80%, 90% and 100%, but no changes... Someone have same issue?

Use 50% or 40%  3,240 rpm

Everyone's RPMs seem to vary quite a bit. My 40% is significantly slower than that.